Oñemoherakuãva: 10.01.2019
Peloponnese Aginara Beach - we spend wonderful days at the campsite. We wash five loads of laundry, walk along the endless sandy beach, lie in the sun in our t-shirts, and watch the surfers ride the waves. In the evenings, all the winter guests and long-term vacationers (5 couples) gather for a 'sundowner' at the beach bar. The view of the sea is unparalleled. The sunset framed by palm trees is almost too beautiful to be true. We enjoy a glass or two of Ouzo and exchange news - it could be much worse.
After four days, it's time to say goodbye - fresh and clean - thanks Wolfgang for the cable drum - who knows? Maybe we will see each other again? We meet up with Gaby and Fred. We met the two of them through the internet before. The two young-at-heart retirees and (almost) retiree have sold everything at home and have been living in their motorhome for two years. Isn't that great? In the summer in the north and in the warm in the winter ... :) The two of them also have two dogs: Theo and Packo. They also recently adopted Packo from a shelter here in Greece, so he's a lucky Greek as well :) The dogs get along well and we humans also get along. We park our Knut in the front row by the beach (there's no one else around anyway, hihi). We spend some beautiful days together. The topics of conversation never run out. The two of them have experienced a lot ... impressive!! Then Christmas is approaching and we decide to celebrate the days together. Unfortunately, it's very windy and cool on Christmas Eve - the day before we were still swimming (with Christmas hats of course). So we quickly set up our tent (finally getting some use out of it). Some Christmas decorations and fairy lights - our Christmas tent is ready. We eat sausages, potato salad, and of course Greek specialties (which are a must). It's windy outside and the surf is loud - but we are cozy in our tent :) - it could be much worse.
We spend the first Christmas day (the sun is shining again) playing 'Möllky', a Swedish outdoor game that's a lot of fun. Christmas 2018 - quite different - but also very nice :) On the second Christmas day, we are woken up by gunshots. Hunters are in the beautiful dunes behind us (where thousands of thyme bushes and heathers grow - it reminds us a lot of Lüneburger Heide in Germany). Our dogs are shaking. They don't like gunshots. We strike up a conversation with a Greek. He has three hunting dogs with him. We find out that he's not hunting today, but rather getting his (still young) dogs used to the sounds of gunshots. The dogs are taking it all in stride, but ours, as well as Theo and Packo from Gaby and Fred, don't like it at all. It's time to move on.
We need to go shopping and get fresh water. So we say goodbye (for now) to Gaby and Fred (thank you both - it was great meeting you and we hope to see you again soon). Our destination: the hot spring that is supposed to be 50km away at Lake Kaifa. When we arrive, we immediately smell sulfur. It immediately reminds us of rotten eggs (which we have become familiar with by now). Unfortunately, the 'hot' spring is only 'tepid'. And you would have to get into a swimming pool because the spring comes out of the rock behind it. We 'overly sophisticated' Germans think - Really? Too bad!! Oh well, then forget it!! - until we see that there is a constant coming and going here. Cars arrive... people climb over the fence and go into the spring. We find out that the place is only closed and nowhere does it say that bathing is prohibited!! Haha - we still have a lot to learn... here in Greece. However, since the spring is crowded around noon - and it gets chilly in the evening - we decide not to take a bath in the spring. We still spend the night at Lake Kaifa and enjoy a midday and a night without the sound of the sea. It is absolutely silent - not even a bird can be heard. It feels like you can hear your own heartbeat (also nice).
The next morning, we decide to take Lucy to the veterinarian. After all, she still has (occasional) bloody diarrhea. Deworming only helped briefly. Something needs to be done now. On our way to the vet in Pirgos, we pass through beautiful orange groves. The trees are so full that we can pick oranges from the car. The road also leads through giant bamboo forests for many kilometers. The bamboo grows over 10 meters high on both sides of the road. In Pirgos, we finally find a vet after some confusion and panic attacks. He takes it very seriously and prescribes antibiotics and stomach syrup for her, as well as strict diet for a month. Since the gastrointestinal food is not available on the island, we have to resort to rice with chicken. Our little food monster is not happy about it at all. But there's nothing we can do - we all have to go through it now. Then we quickly get out of the city. After the Christmas holidays, it's so chaotic here... we just want to get out of here.
Our destination: Olympia - the birthplace of the Olympics. The sky is clear and the thermometer shows 21.9° - on December 27, 2018 :) The road takes us inland into the mountains. We drive through a beautiful green landscape. Olive trees, cypresses, pine trees as far as the eye can see. Goat and sheep herds cross our path - we can't get enough of beautiful Greece. Then we arrive in 'Olympia' - the current 'new' Olympia. We quickly find a parking spot (also for overnight stays) - and guess who is there? Gaby and Fred's blue motorhome - well, the reunion was faster than expected :) The dogs (who recognize us immediately) are also very happy. The next morning, the four of us with our four dogs head to the 'old' Olympia. But nope. At the entrance, it says: dogs not allowed! Gaby and Fred decide to go back to the beach - but we really want to go in and decide to put the dogs back in the car and then come back. And that's what we do. In Olympia, Hercule himself reportedly prepared the grounds for the competition of the gods. The Olympic Games were first mentioned in writing in 776 BC. We see a huge site that shows quite a few destroyed structures. In the 6th century, a strong earthquake did a lot of damage here. Nevertheless, we are impressed by what is left. We see ruins of training facilities, sacrificial temples, houses, temples of Zeus, drum columns (and how many there are), the temple of Hera, and the large stadium. There is a lot to see and one wonders why the ancient Greeks were already so advanced for their time? In Germany, it was still the Stone Age and people were happy that they discovered fire and the wheel - and here they built huge temple complexes. They even had underfloor heating in their baths back then. Can you believe it? We finish off by visiting the museum and are amazed once again by the huge statues, busts, and other ancient artifacts that archaeologists excavated here in 1845. The trip to the mountains was definitely worth it.
After another overnight stay (we sit in the sun all day and write postcards), we set off the next morning - the sea is calling again :) - and please let it be quiet and deserted, because New Year's Eve is approaching and we want to be far away from the fireworks. In Elea, we find (once again) a little paradise in the pine forest. We have 4 km of sandy beach, dunes, and forests right in front of us. But we are surprised. There are other vacationers here in Greece (where were they all?). There are makeshift camps behind the dunes. Globetrotters, long-term travelers, winter vacationers... it seems like everyone is here?! But we have the desire to have a few days to ourselves first, so we drive a little further behind the dunes and find a great spot just for ourselves - with a sea view (of course). But in the evening - we are looking out the window at this beautiful bay - a motorhome parks right in front of our view!! Huh?? Really now?? A Swiss family wants to park here too... and enjoy the great view of the sea. Yes, gladly - but not right in front of our great view, please!!! They understand and park about 2 meters away from us. So much for being alone on New Year's Eve!! It seems like it's another one of those times. But the three of them are very nice and we start a friendly conversation. We even get a piece of freshly baked bread from them.
It's wonderfully warm and the next day we want to go for a swim. After all, we have a dream beach right in front of us. Unfortunately, the surf is very strong today and I can't get into the water. The waves break over 2 meters high right on the beach. When Kilian tries to go in, he is faced with waves higher than him. One of them pulls him under!! No thanks - I'll just be a wimp - I don't want to go in there. So we opt for a cold beach shower (to at least be somewhat clean and greet the new year). Tomorrow is New Year's Eve. At night, about an hour before New Year's Eve - it's pouring rain - we made ourselves comfortable in bed - with fairy lights, music, and goodies - suddenly, it starts dripping on my bed!! No, this can't be true! Is this happening NOW?? Yes - NOW... just before midnight, Kilian has to climb onto the roof in the storm and rain to put down a tarp. There is a leak somewhere again. Just now - what a great timing. But there's no other choice. I don't want a wet bed, so 'man' has to take care of it!! He manages it - for the time being - because just before twelve, the tarp blows away and he has to go up there again. Happy new year!! But at twelve, we greet the new year 2019 dry and warm.
A great exciting unbelievable year is coming to an end for us. We will probably never forget 2018 and we both hope that 2019 will continue to be just as positive. We wish everyone, family, friends, and all the people we have met on our journey, a healthy and peaceful new year 2019 and although we don't feel homesick at all - of course, we are looking forward to seeing everyone again next year. Happy new year to all of you :):):)
On New Year's Day, the sun is shining again. We stay for one more day and spend New Year's Day with a great walk on the beach. Then it's time to pack up... off we go. We say goodbye to the nice Swiss couple, drive to a water tap in the forest (very convenient) - take a long shower. Wash our hair, fill up with water, rinse off the van (again)... everything gets done quickly and we say goodbye fresh and clean to this fantastic spot by Elea/West Coast/Peloponnese :) We want to go shopping. It's January 2, 2019 - unfortunately, everything is closed in Greece today. No chance of finding a store that's open. Okay - we won't starve - so we look for a place to spend the night by the sea. In the evening, we see a rainbow that shines around our Knut. That can only be a good omen :).
The next day, we drive back to Matrapolis to go shopping. And guess who we meet in the middle of the city? Gaby and Fred. Their blue motorhome is hard to miss. What a joy!! Then we find a vet who has the special food for Lucy (yay) - because cooking chicken with rice every other day... doesn't make us happy either. 4kg for 38 euros (not so yay) - but there's nothing we can do. She really needs it, as the diarrhea hasn't gone away despite antibiotics. We decide to wait another week, and if it still hasn't improved, we will see a vet again. Eventually, we will get this under control. Then we drive back to the sea and guess who's there?! Gaby and Fred's blue motorhome. We are thrilled and spend a nice evening together (despite the storm). We stand on a hill above the sea. The sea is throwing huge waves - over 5 m high - onto the cliffs, and the waves crash loudly into the small sandy bay next to us. What a sight!! It sounds like rolling thunder at times when a particularly large wave hits the land. Even for the Greeks, this is something special. They drive to the beach and take pictures of the spectacle (and of course, we do too). It hails all night and the storm is very strong. And the next morning, the waves are even bigger. What a unique spectacle. We can't get enough of the sometimes gigantic waves. The mountain tops behind us are covered in white snow. It has gotten cold and it seems like it will stay that way for a while.
In pouring rain, we travel in a convoy with Gaby and Fred. We make a short stop in Filiatra at the harbor. The day before yesterday, Kilian and I had breakfast here - right on the quay. Today, the waves crash far above the pier. In Korifasa, we find a place for the night. Sandy beach and dunes included. Unfortunately, it has gotten very cold. But there is no bad weather - only bad clothing. So we put on our thermal leggings, woolen socks, and beanies - warmed up some mulled wine (thanks, mom) - and we also spend the day outside.
In the morning, we say goodbye to Mike and Anne. Their way will take them up the west coast. The remaining four people and four dogs decide to spend today (still stormy) behind the factory. Kilian quickly changes the oil - this seems like a good place for it. Tomorrow, our paths will separate. Gaby and Fred want to go to Kalamata (also to do laundry) ... and we will continue - along the coast - towards the south. -
The Peloponnese - a true dream!! We can't get enough of the endless olive groves, thousands of palm trees, deserted beaches, the many cacti, orange and lemon trees, the friendly people, and the blue blue sea - we will stay here for many more weeks - :):) ... we are far from being done :)