Hiking Mt. Takao 🏞

September 14, 2019 - Trip to Mt. Takao

Good things come to those who wait... and boy was this day long 😉 My day trip to hike up Tokyo's famous mountain Mt. Takao was quite a journey and there's a lot to tell. So, let's get started!

The Plan

My plan was to leave early on Saturday, around 7:30 or 8:00 in the morning, and take a train to Takaosanguchi - according to Google Maps, a train runs every 20 minutes without any transfers from a station near my place. From there, I wanted to hike up one of the 6 trails, take a short break, hike down another trail, and finally relax at an onsen (hot spring) as a perfect end to the day. Well, as they say, the best-laid plans often go awry...

Off to a great start...

After a week of sufficient sleep and probably due to my anticipation, I was wide awake by 5:00 in the morning. An hour before my alarm went off, but hey, not too bad - at least I had time to enjoy a leisurely cup of coffee, pack everything up, and leave on time to catch the earlier train. So, I opened the window - it was a bit cloudy but pleasantly cool, perfect! - and checked the news and messages while still in bed. What I didn't expect was that apparently even the mosquitoes (or whatever they were) here are early risers... 10 minutes later and 11 (!!) mosquito bites later (including one on the palm of my hand and one on my throat... even as a known mosquito magnet, I've never experienced that before), I had enough. I closed the window and turned on the light! I accidentally hit my head on the bed (surprisingly, that hasn't happened to me more often, considering that half of the room is underneath the bed...) and some time later, I had everything packed and ready to go 😊 I checked the time and realized that if I hurry, I would have time to quickly buy something to drink before catching the train at 7:30.

However, after two stations, the train mysteriously became quite empty... I looked around uncertainly... okay, well, at least there is still one person sleeping in the next car. So, I decided to move so I could see the platform. And from there, I saw the digital display above the door, occasionally displaying something in English. I managed to catch a glimpse of 'Final Stop' before it switched back to Japanese... Great, should I get off then? And just as I was about to reach the door, it closed and the train started moving. It went about 50 meters in a leisurely pace, and then stopped again. On a side track. Great. 😑 It was just me and the sleeper in the next car - at least I wasn't completely alone. 😅 After 5 minutes, two friendly railway staff approached and checked the cars. With their face masks on and the help of the translation app on their tablet, they gestured for me to stay seated. The train would go back in the opposite direction in 5 minutes, and I was to get off at the station and take the express train to Takaosangushi from platform 2 at 8:56 - the later train that I had already considered as an option. I could have given myself more time from the beginning. But never mind, after changing trains once, I finally arrived at the destination, along with what felt like 100 other hikers.

Ascending Mt. Takao 高尾山

As the many families and older folks would suggest, Mt. Takao, standing at 599 meters, is a popular hiking destination with its 6 well-marked trails, a cable car, a Buddhist temple, a monkey park (?), various dining options, and a visitor center. Unbeknownst to me, I chose the 3.8 km long approach trail: a concrete path with a constant incline through lush green forest. Along the way, small shrines, statues, and large spiderwebs (with appropriately sized residents - argh 😟) would occasionally appear.

After a little over an hour, I reached the summit and already felt quite sweaty - now I understand why all the Japanese hikers carry a small towel with them. I needed one too, especially if it was going to stay humid... it's just too bad that even a towel can't hide the noticeable redness in my face 😅 The light drizzle was a welcome relief. Unfortunately, due to the haze, I couldn't see the Tokyo skyline or Mount Fuji, which can usually be seen from here on clear days... but at least a group posing in Tai Chi poses in front of the panoramic view provided some entertainment 😉

Since it was only 10:45 AM after my breakfast/lunch break and the hike so far seemed too short and easy, I decided to continue towards Mt. Kobotoke-Shiroyama (650m) and possibly Mt. Kagenobu (727m) - and then turn around depending on how I felt. Of course, I don't do things halfway, so in the end, as expected, I made it all the way to Mt. Kagenobu.

Over 10,000 Steps, Hiking Stick, and Rocky Paths to Mt. Kagenobu 景信山

As soon as I left Mt. Takao behind (thankfully), the number of people on the trail decreased significantly. At the same time, the number of steps increased exponentially. After a little less than an hour, 10,000 steps up and down the mountain, and hundreds of friendly and mumbled Konnichiwas in various forms (from Konnichiwa to Nichiwa and Chiwa to a quick Wa), I finally reached Mt. Kobotoke. It seemed like a popular spot for lunch with its version of a Japanese mountain hut: almost every table was occupied, and it was not uncommon to see camping stoves being used to boil water for instant noodle cups.

After a quick look around, I continued downhill again. Not for the last time, I was grateful for bringing my sturdy hiking boots with me, given the steep, damp, and occasionally slippery trail through the cedar forest 😎

Along the narrow path, there were signs and maps, usually with an English 'translation' of the mountains/destinations. When I stood in front of one of these maps, I greeted a small elderly Japanese woman with a friendly Konnichiwa. However, she seemed to be in a talkative mood. Problem: she could only speak a few words of English, and I couldn't speak Japanese. After a flood of Japanese words and gestures towards the map, I suspected that she was asking where I wanted to go and where I came from. So, I pointed to Mt. Kagenobu on the map, which prompted her to speak rapidly in response. She also made quick gestures indicating walking - I had no idea what she was trying to tell me. Shaking my head, I indicated that I didn't understand. Then she asked, 'Ahh... English... France...?' - 'No, Germany' - 'Yes, Germany! ...mhm...' - she nodded vigorously and made another attempt to communicate, accompanied by gestures towards the path up the mountain to Mt. Kagenobu... Well, I knew which direction to go 😉 Since I looked confused and apologetic, she seemed to give up, thought for a moment, and said, 'Let's go!' So, I continued walking - and she followed me. Although I could have sworn that she came from that direction. Is she following me now? Or does she want to show me the way? Hiking together? The latter, however, was quite difficult due to the limited communication... and she was also slower than me. To escape the situation (or her?), I walked a little faster 🙈 After going around a couple of bends, I was alone again - except for other hikers and trail runners coming towards me (God, they are crazy! running up and down on this slippery terrain 😳). But I had celebrated too early. 20 minutes later, when I stood in front of a map at a junction before the final ascent, she appeared again, waved friendly, said something, and pointed emphatically with her hiking poles up the path to the top of the mountain... This time she was leading the way, but since I was walking faster, I overtook her shortly afterwards and, feeling slightly pursued, didn't take any more breaks. After a steep ascent, I finally reached the top of the mountain, sat down on a bench with my energy bar, and acclimated while enjoying the view.

About 15 minutes later, she appeared in my peripheral vision again, holding out a few Japanese crackers. So, she was a nice woman rather than a stalker 😉 I gratefully tried the salty snack, while she sat a few benches away with her belongings. Apparently, she had given up on communication by now 😅 Eventually, she packed up her things and walked in a different direction again.

Shortly afterwards, I followed suit and turned back. Going downhill on the way back to Mt. Takao was no problem at all. The only challenge was the 3.2 km descent on stairs and tree roots... but eventually, I made it and after a 15.5 km hike mainly uphill and downhill, I was quite exhausted. Fortunately, I had planned ahead to visit the onsen located right next to the train station 😉 But first, I treated myself to an ice cream! 🍦

Finally - Relaxing at the Onsen 🧖‍♀️

And thank goodness I had already read an instruction manual for onsens on the internet and knew what to expect 🤓

First, I took off my shoes at the entrance and stored them in a shoe locker. With the key and in my socks, I went to the automated machine where I purchased the entrance ticket and, in my case, rented a large and a small towel. Then, at the entrance, they checked my ticket and I received the towels. Passing by a restaurant and massage area, I arrived at the changing rooms. From this point on, men and women were strictly separated.

In the changing room, all clothes, belongings, and the large towel were stored in a locker. With the small towel in front of me, I entered the actual bathing area, which was quite crowded. The first thing to do was to go to the washing area: a row of low washing stations separated by narrow walls, each equipped with a small plastic stool, a plastic bowl, a handheld showerhead, mirrors, and large pump bottles of shampoo, conditioner, and body wash. It was a bit unusual to wash sitting/squatting next to other women, but everything was super clean and actually quite comfortable ;) Once thoroughly cleaned, one could enter the hot spring baths, filled with thermal water mostly around 40°C. There were different types of baths: indoor and outdoor, with bubbles and without bubbles, hotter and colder ones, and even one where fluorescent dye would be poured into the water at the top of every hour 🌈 Overall, there was quite a variety considering they all contained hot water.

There was also a sauna, with the floor and benches completely covered with soft mats (or were they actually bath rugs?). No sweat dripped onto the wood! 😂 And for entertainment purposes, there was a television showing golf. Ah yes, that's not necessary either...

After an hour in various hot springs, I was quite pruney and had enough of sitting in hot water. So, I washed myself again, quickly dried off with the small towel (which, by the way, is placed on top of one's head or tied around it by ladies while bathing), and went back to the changing room. Here, I used the large towel to properly dry myself, and then I could sit at one of the many hair drying stations (yes, sitting! not standing like in Germany!). Next to the seating area, the stations were luxuriously equipped similar to the washing stations: separated by narrow partitions, a regular hairdryer with a good output, a large mirror, cotton swabs, facial tissues, and sometimes even facial cream... It felt like being at a spa 😊

And then it was time to take the train back... but I will definitely come back, especially when the weather is clear and the autumn colors are in full display ;)

Learnings of the Day

1. Japanese mosquitoes are always ready and fearless.

2. Don't rely on train connections from Google Maps. Better check if you really don't have to get off.

3. The typical hiking outfit for Japanese people of all ages includes: ankle-high hiking boots with hiking socks sticking out, leggings with loose-fitting shorts over them, a long or short shirt, possibly arm warmers or a long shirt underneath if the short version is worn, a hat with a chin strap, definitely a small sweat towel, optional gloves and face mask, and for the pros, a camping stove to prepare their cup noodle lunches. (No traditional packed lunch 😉)

4. Nice hikers who don't understand you are truly nice and not stalking you.

5. Steep hiking trails with thousands of steps qualify as a sweaty workout.

6. Onsens are amazing! After a strenuous hike, you can take a fresh, clean, and relaxed train ride home - perfect. And you don't have to carry showering equipment around.

7. I definitely need a small sweat/onsen towel.

8. It was worth it to carry the heavy, bulky hiking boots to Japan 💪