About Werchowyna to (just before) Putyla

On Tuesday morning (June 26, 2018), we get up shortly after eight. The weather is rather cloudy again, but dry. After having breakfasted the last supplies, I pack our stuff and we are ready to go shortly after ten. Before we start, a larger group of hikers arrives at our campsite and we get into conversation. Besides some Germans, there are young people from all kinds of European countries, a pretty international group. They want to climb up to Pip Iwan and recommend a campsite about 7 km away. Shortly after half past ten, I can finally release Rango, he has made plenty of friendships again. After an hour and about 3 km of descent, we reach Dzembronya and I go straight to a shop at the entrance of the village, buy some bread and butter, and treat myself to a coffee and an ice cream. Then we walk along a mountain stream downstream. After another hour, we reach the recommended campsite. It offers various sports activities such as rafting and also a sauna. Quite tempting, but I still need to find some food for Rango, so we continue walking towards Krasnyk, the next village. On the way, I get a ride to Werchowyna, the nearest bigger city. I gratefully accept and chat with a young music teacher from Kiev on the way, who is spending part of her three-month summer vacation in the area. We reach the small town shortly before two o'clock, I can replenish our supplies, have another coffee, and take advantage of the good reception to read something. Around three o'clock, we set off again into the mountains. Shortly before leaving the village, I meet a woman from Berlin, with whom I have a brief conversation. She has been coming here regularly for a few years and considers the area to be one of the most beautiful in Ukraine - I can understand that well. The next two hours we hike southwards and finally set up our tent above the village of Zamahora with a magnificent view over the valley.

On Wednesday, I wake up for the first time shortly before five and watch the sunrise over the valley for a moment, then I go back to bed for a few more hours. We get up at nine and have a leisurely breakfast. In Werchowyna, I was able to buy chicken heads cheaply for Rango, who eats them despite initial skepticism. Every now and then, a few local residents pass by on foot or with horse-drawn carts and look surprised. You don't see many hikers here. In between, Rango chases a farm dog up the mountain, I was momentarily inattentive. Around eleven o'clock, we start the stage of the day, which is supposed to lead us southwards along a mountain ridge and then further east to Yablunytsya. First, we have to reach Sminska, 1356 m high. After an hour and a half, we have overcome the approximately 400 meters of altitude and can continue hiking along the mountain range. There is plenty of activity on the slopes, people are picking blueberries. Anything serves as transport. Some are on horseback, others are on a scooter or motorcycle. There are also a few Ladas, Moskvichs, and trucks standing around up here. I have to walk quite a while before I find a spot where it's worth taking a break to eat blueberries. Shortly after half past two, we leave the ridge and start descending to the east. I'm quite happy to be back in the forest again, a pretty strong wind was blowing up here. In the late afternoon, it starts raining again, so I set up our tent about a kilometer and a half before Yablunytsya on a meadow. I hang my sweaty shirt in the rain to use it for washing, which should last almost the whole night.

On Thursday morning (June 28, 2018), it is no longer raining, but it's foggy and cloudy. Both my tent and my hanging laundry will probably have to be packed wet. Shortly before eleven o'clock, we set off for the nearby village. On the way there, I stop at a cherry tree, taste a few fruits, and pack a bag full for the journey. Shortly after entering the village, Sascha accompanies us for a while, apparently having a lot to tell. He doesn't mind that I can only partially follow him. After I have provided some information about age, origin, destination, and Rango, he apparently trusts me to handle a lot. After an hour, we reach the bridge over the White Cheremosch, which clearly shows the recent rainfall. I replenish our supplies again and have a coffee at the shop. Then we follow the main road for another kilometer towards the northeast before turning right towards Samakova. The village is about 5 km southeast. After over an hour of uphill walking, we reach the village and I treat myself to another coffee. Like in Yablunytsya, the reception is rather poor here as well. The saleswoman in the small store recommends the climb to a nearby hill. And indeed, half an hour later, I can complete my map material up to Putyla. The next few hours will be quite a struggle again. The paths are mostly soaked and my shoes weigh twice as much due to the mud sticking to them. There are several streams to cross, and at one of them, I have no choice but to take off my shoes and wade through. Shortly after five, after a total of 17 km, I pass a kind of pavilion. After briefly considering whether the tent will fit underneath, the end of the stage about 6 km before Putyla is decided. I clear the table, sweep the floor, and set up my tent. After the laundry has found its place under the roof, I am optimistic that I will be able to pack my stuff dry the next morning. Throughout the evening, I am increasingly confirmed in my decision, as there is a pretty severe storm going on outside.

The Friday morning (June 29, 2018) cannot offer dry laundry, and the outlook is also very cloudy in front of the pavilion. After breakfast, I decide to stay at this spot and spend the day doing maintenance work on the equipment and reading, depending on the reception. Apart from breakfast, Rango shows no inclination to leave the tent and dozes off the whole time. With a few exceptions, it rains most of the day. Regardless of the weather, we are planning to continue our journey on Saturday, as our supplies will be running out again. After a good rest, that should not be a problem.