The bypass of the Cape sea

An adventure that you need ?!

Actually, we could have been suspicious as the first Russian customs officer, after he had asked us where we want to, with a smile a 'good luck' wished.

We had set ourselves swiftly through the first 600 km to avoid having to sleep in Tchechenia or Dagistan. When we introduce about 40 km after the border to Tchechenien we got from the Russian military control another 'Good Luck' ... Well, we thought great ... And so it went on ... We were happy about the many controls because they gave a certain security not to be alone with the Tchechenien. And then promptly a Tchechenischer Popelpolizist stopped us at Grozny and we were allowed to pay 2000 rubles Backschisch for nothing. Later, during a piss break, a car stopped with four traditionally dressed men and we thought there were problems. However, they were very nice and wanted to invite us to stay. This positive experience did us good, but we still wanted to leave these two unstable and corrupt countries behind.

We succeeded and we arrived at the late night at the peaceful Kalmücken who are predominantly Buddhists.

At night we had the experience of our first sandy track and the landscape became flat and sandy.

The fact that we arrived in the first desert on the European continent we realized only the next morning.

We still had a few kilometers to the Kazakh border and made a stop in Astrakhan. There we enjoyed the Russian cordiality and the interest that was brought to us.

In Kalmücken begins the Volga River Delta, which then stretches for about 100 km along the coast to Kazakhstan. But since it is already very heavily shed there is not the impressive flora of the Danube Delta, but green reed and lakes with many waterfowl. Caviar fans can get their money's worth here.

On 21.05 we passed the Kazakh border without any problems. It was already late afternoon and we saw our first camels on the roadside - we were in the best mood.

Beautiful the first roads were a disaster but our mood could not deceive on the first night. Promt us Google maps in the sand dunes and we did not remember where we were. A couple of locals brought us back to the street just before dark - if you can call it that - and we hopped on for a few yards. There we saw two buses standing by the wayside and we bowed off. The night we spent here with other German travelers. They were less fortunate in Czechoslovakia than we were. The car was to be fixed and they had to pay 15000 rubles.

From the Germans we got the bad news that our planned route is not really passable and we should make a detour of 600km. After we drove on the next day, with about 20kmh, and we had still inquired with truck drivers, we decided to take this detour on us.

From now on, the actual hell-trip began. On the first day, we managed just under 200km at a 10 hour drive. The next day with the same travel time after all to the 500km. We passed the first Kazakh cities Athyrau and Aktobe. The cities are beautiful and well maintained, with many green areas and the skyscrapers colorfully painted with patterns.

From Aktöbe to our first destination on the unsbekischen border we had now 1200km ahead of us. The detour was worth it since we were now on a good road. The Rüttelpisten the last days did not run without trace on our car. The stairs were bent, the engine guard was worn, all the chaos in the interior including outflowing gas cylinder, the speakers hung only on the cables ... The strangest, however, is the missing hitch ....

The first 500km were really desert steppe and we damned that we only have a spare tire with us. But the road was good and we could Km! In addition, the endless expanse and the starry sky at night was an experience in itself. The many camels, sheep, goats and even cows are sometimes surprising in this hostile environment. We could also see an eagle and also turtles.

For the first time we stopped in Aral from where you can see the unfortunately dried up part of the once huge Aral Sea. It is a depressing feeling to see this catastrophe that is manmade. The whole region has become the salty steppe desert and the regional climate has changed.

Passing Baikonur, from where Yuri Gagarin launched the first manned space flight, we pass to Turkistan. Shortly before the city we had to pay in a check 100 euros because we apparently do not have the right car insurance. We still have to clarify that, but the corrupt police really piss you off. It is always important to have small bills because we would certainly have come off cheaper.

In Turkistan, we visited a grave monument of an important Sufis that in its splendor was a little taste of Uzbekistan. It is also pleasant in Kazakhstan that Muslims live their faith more traditionally and not strictly religiously. In the restaurants is also in spite of Ramadan well eaten and you do not see a lot of veiled women.

From Turkistan, we then drove to the unsbekischen border and make today our first day off since 16 05 at a reservoir. We are doing very well and we are in dire need of a rest!