20. Etappe nach Santiago de Compostela

I fell asleep relatively quickly, but then woke up a few times and around 5 a.m. I figured I could get up. I "only" have 19 kilometers on the program today and could sleep in, but I'm thinking about whether I should take the early bus to Muxia or the late one at 5:30 p.m. Anyway, I packed up and left. On the entire route today I only saw a single pilgrim, just before Santiago, which is definitely due to the early time. I first went through O Pino and then through the forests again. In July I walked the path from this very place with someone. And on my first Camino from Porto I arrived in Santiago with 2 girls from the USA. So this time it will be the first time that I arrive in Santiago alone. I had actually planned to do this every time before, but it hadn't happened yet. And even though the path was a little long at the beginning and was flooded again, I enjoyed every meter and every second. It's really beautiful and you can be proud of yourself if you've mastered the journey despite all the adversities. I can still remember many parts of the route from the last time. There wasn't a single bar open along the way. It went through some small villages and a lot through the forest. And the nice thing is that you walk around Santiago airport and can also hear a few planes landing. Then we went along the expressway for a bit, where you had to be careful again, and then back into the countryside. I slightly twisted my ankle twice in the forest and that's why I walked even more carefully. There it is, just before the goal is injured. I have to say that apart from a few small aches and pains, I obviously feel a bit in my legs over the kilometers, but overall I survived without any accidents or injuries.

Overall, it can be said that the Ways of St. James are very well marked. Even for people who don't have good orientation. If necessary, there are also apps like Camino Love or Buen Camino, where the paths are marked on maps and you can use GPS to check exactly whether you are still on the right path. And usually, whenever I was unsure whether the route was the right one and wanted to take a look, the next arrow came along to show me the direction. The last 100 kilometers in particular are particularly well marked because so many people walk it and during the day you usually meet pilgrims every 5 minutes.

I actually wanted to have a coffee on the way, but since nothing was open, I had to do it in Santiago. Last time we passed a bar that was open early, but I didn't see it this time. Then we went up a mountain that is called Monte do Gozo, which means "mountain of joy" because the pilgrims see Santiago for the first time after all the hardships. I could only see most of Santiago as it was still dark and equally foggy. There is a chapel on the mountain where I got a stamp. From here it's another 4.5 kilometers and there are also 2 hostels here because some people want to arrive in Santiago very early and don't want to get up so early like I did. And in general it is a nice area to stay. Then I moved on and everything seemed very familiar to me. I already recognized a few streets in Santiago. Since I've been to Santiago twice now, I know a bit about it and I love it when you walk through an alley and realize that you've already been to the café or that you took that route the first time. The weather so far today has been dry but a bit cloudy. And so I arrived at the cathedral square. It was another special moment, especially because it was still so empty. It's a shame that there was scaffolding opposite the cathedral, where you can always sit down. The best feeling was the first time and I think the more you get there, the less exciting it becomes. But that's completely ok. I took a few photos and sat down and ate something and enjoyed the peace and quiet. It was just after 9 a.m. and I was wondering whether I should stay in Santiago for the day and drive to Muxia later or whether I should go straight away at 10:45. Since it was so gray and Santiago is generally a little too touristy for me, I decided to go to Muxia earlier. I will get the certificate or the last stamp on Wednesday when I spend another night here. So I enjoyed the peace and quiet and slowly set off.

What I also find interesting is that walking in the shoes was very difficult for me the first two times and I quickly took off my shoes at every opportunity, but this time my shoes got used to it. I still have 2 blisters and pressure points on my feet, but after a week that was normal for my body. When hiking, one of the most important things is good, well-worn shoes and good socks. I got Wright Socks on the recommendation of a pilgrim. They cost just under €20 a pair, but they are really great for hiking and jogging. These are double-layered socks that have no seams to interfere with walking and are easy to wash and dry.

Then I head towards the bus station. I got another drink and then had a quick coffee and got my bus ticket online. Then I got a stamp for my pilgrim ID card (you need at least 2 stamps every day as proof of the last 100 kilometers). And then go. I knew the route from last time, but through a construction site I ended up at the train station first. Luckily I had enough time and found the bus station behind it. I still had half an hour and relaxed. I still can't quite believe that the journey is now over.

Then the bus came and I enjoyed the ride for 2.5 hours and, among other things, wrote the blog here. I'm really looking forward to Muxia and everything else.

What this path has particularly taught me is, firstly, gratitude. Grateful that I can afford such a hike (in terms of time and money) and am also able to complete this path and grateful for the many beautiful moments along the way. And secondly, I learned that you can do anything you want. At the beginning you always see the markings on the way and read "From here 750km to Santiago" and think that you will never, ever make it. But everything worked out. And it's exactly this idea that I need to incorporate more into my everyday life.

Now I enjoy the rest of the bus ride and report back from Muxia.