02.03.23

For breakfast, I make myself tomato mozzarella sandwiches with ingredients from the overpriced minimarket around the corner. Then Marco offers me a private tour with his SUV at half price. Correct!

We're going to Tepuhueico Park, a private nature park that's not as crowded as the adjacent Chiloé National Park to the north.

On the way there, we stop in Chonchi and Huillinco, two peaceful villages. The Chiloten people are different from the mainland residents. They're visually a bit smaller and stockier, usually with a smile on their face. It's more relaxed here, it feels like everyone knows everyone. A lot of locally produced handicrafts are offered for sale, mainly wool sweaters, scarves, and hats.

Arriving at Tepuhueico Park, I'm greeted by lush Valdivian rainforest with ancient manios (a type of fir tree) that are about 2000 years old. It reminds me in part of the Tagua Tagua Park. Marco assures me that the waterfall looks even more impressive in the rainier winter, but even now in late summer in the southern hemisphere, it's still impressive. As we drive out of the park on the dirt road, I spot two pudus (the world's smallest deer species) on the embankment. It's a mother with offspring. We carefully get out of the car to take photos or videos. The pudus are unfazed and continue to eat in peace.

In the evening, back in Castro, I walk to the bus station to find out about the return to Puerto Montt and the excursion options for tomorrow. On the way back, I get some empanadas filled with squeaky, flavorless cheese.