Valparaiso - on the Cerros

Rome has 7 hills, so does Bamberg, but how many in Valparaiso? One source says 42! You don't have to know them all, but I am intrigued by the views. There are several funiculars to some of these hills, there used to be 30 even, and steam-powered! Some are still in operation. Why take an elevator (Ascensor) if you have healthy legs? That was my motto until yesterday. Cerro Artilleria is nearby. The funicular is said to be out of service, but yes, it's running again! A wonderful old thing in operation. I look into the ticket booth and see it costs a whole 300 pesos up (38 € cents) and it was wonderful, especially because you have an amazing view during the ride up. It goes steeply up, only about 60 meters, but always with a clear view of the blue sea. Between the oil-soaked rope mechanism and the railway tracks, colorful flowers are blooming. Curiously, the fare is only collected at the top. Not by a machine, but by a woman who only releases the cast iron turnstile after payment. The Naval and Maritime Museum is still closed, so I can enjoy the view in peace.

The museum, when it finally opened, was very interesting because it covers a wide range of topics: not just military, but also a lot about maritime in general and the history of Chile. The fate of some heroes from different wars is extensively presented, especially from the Saltpeter War (1879 to 1883), as well as tragic fates, like that of the German sailing training ship Pamir. For 9 years, it transported saltpeter from Chile to Europe. In 1949, the Pamir rounded Cape Horn as the last windjammer without auxiliary motor and sank tragically in the Atlantic in 1957, with 80 sailors drowned, including 45 aged 16 to 18.

Plenty of school classes filled the museum increasingly: on one hand, it seems that the history of Chile is meant to be conveyed vividly, on the other hand, maybe early interest in a career in the military is to be aroused. But I doubt whether this calculation will work, because the teachers had trouble keeping the energetic children somewhat under control. The respect demanded on a brass plaque in front of the entrance is missing. Cannons and sea mines in the beautiful courtyard seem to impress the children little. The museum staff close their eyes as boys practically test the mechanisms of directional cannons.

Finally, I float back down to the harbor with the Ascensor. First, have some fish in one of the many restaurants at the harbor - hmm (Merluza=hake). It's calm here - until a school class enters the place again.

The climb to the house of Nobel laureate Pablo Neruda (1904 to 1973) was a bit lengthy and strenuous - but sometimes you have to suffer a bit - for the sake of art. He found the house by accident and it is located so that he could enjoy a wonderful view over the entire bay. It has 5 floors, but little floor space. It's not big, but practical and very stylishly furnished, with great attention to detail. Neruda was a collector and he believed that the spirit of play was also important for adults - exactly! The audio guide tells nice anecdotes - very entertaining. Neruda liked to laugh, but he couldn't tell jokes himself. Neruda's 'Sebastiana' (that's what he called the house) is really worth a visit, but it can get crowded inside. I buy one of his early works 'Veinte poemas de Amor y una canción desesperada' (Twenty Love Poems and a Desperate Song). The entrance fee was relatively high at 7000 pesos, but worth the money. Why was the lady at the cash register so unfriendly? She awkwardly typed on the computer until she finally produced 3 receipts that also had to be stamped. I asked about it and allowed myself to remark that it seemed a bit complicated - stern face. After that, I leisurely followed the only street in Valparaiso that runs horizontally along the slope, the 'Avenida Alemania'. Again and again, magnificent views. The wind picked up quite a bit, but there was blue sky and a clear view of the bay. That's when colors and contrasts come alive - perfect for even more photos. Along the way, I also visit a so-called Bodega, which is actually a pretty well-stocked drink shop. I noticed that there is no alcohol in other shops. For dinner, I go up the hill a little around 9 pm. I had already chosen the restaurant beforehand. Good music everywhere. It's Halloween and you come across some weird characters, some with self-made masks.