Thomas in der Welt
Thomas in der Welt
vakantio.de/usurpator

Cusco part 1

Argitaratu: 31.03.2024

Monday, it's holy week in Peru and you can tell. It's always not that comfortable on the night bus, luckily I didn't have anyone sitting next to me. We arrived in Cusco at 4:45 a.m. Way too early, waited in the terminal until 6 a.m. and then went to the hostel. Luckily I was able to check in straight away and sleep for another 2 hours. The city tour wasn't that good, the guide said way too much. In Cusco, history can be found on every corner. The Incas built it as their capital at 3,400 meters and for over 60,000 people. At lunchtime I was at the largest Mercado San Pedro, which was built by Mr. Eifel and is the perfect place to buy gifts and of course drink Chicha Merado. In the afternoon the most important procession in Cusco takes place, Senior de los Temblores. God didn't mean it so well; before that it was hailing and raining. The black Jesus was first wrapped in plastic, but then released again. People believe that the black Jesus protects them from earthquakes because he apparently survived an earthquake unscathed in 1620. Everything is very festive, a lot of people, a lot of security forces and a lot of Peruvian television. By the way, only men wear the figure, generally very male-oriented. Red flower petals are thrown at Jesus and palm fronds also play a role. The fact that so many people attach such importance to this is amazing. Indigenous and Catholic traditions also mix here, which can be clearly seen in the colorful clothing and music. The flag of Cusco is a rainbow flag. Where do you see a bishop next to a flag like that? Maude from Paracas is in the same hostel; In the evening we had something to eat. She was in the jungle for 4 days and we had a lot to talk about our experiences. Jungle would also appeal to me, but because of Machu Picchu that won't work.

The next tour leads to the Rainbow Mountains. Start 4:30, again. Small groups of tourists are standing everywhere at this time, waiting for their van. The start was bumpy because I wasn't picked up at the hostel as promised. And it rains, rains, rains. All roads in Peru are long, I spend too much time on buses and get back pain. After Machu Picchu, this attraction is the second most popular in Cusco; A whole trek of minivans drives together over gravel roads to the Rainbow Mountains. Hundreds of people. The landscape is beautiful and you can see snow-capped mountains, we are over 5000 meters. It takes about 80 minutes to hike to the summit. The lazy ones take a horse, but they don't look very happy. The colors are created by different minerals. Thanks to climate change, this attraction was uncovered a few years ago. During the descent it started to sleet, which then turned into rain; People slipped in rows. Very annoying, but it's rainy season. In the evening UNO with Maude and her friend. Quite a long day.

Cusco is the most touristy place in Peru, with all the accompaniments (massages, wheat, mushrooms). It's Wednesday, the only task today is to go to my new host family. After lunch I take the bus (dos Soles/50 cents) to Saylla. Bus always means too much physical contact. Saylla is a suburb of Cusco located in a valley with beautiful scenery and better air. I will be living with the family for a week at their more than 300 year old Hacienda Canopata. Very nice people and I was warmly welcomed straight away.

I'm actually getting by quite well with what little Spanish I have, thanks in part to the translation app. Short lesson in Spanish. y is pronounced like i, ll like j. So Saylla is pronounced Saija, Llamas (llamas) is pronounced Jamas and Pollo (chicken) is pronounced Pojo. The n with the tilde as in baño (toilet) is pronounced like nj, i.e. banjo. With the rules you can actually say anything and be more or less understood.

The family consists of Toño (Tonjo) and Wilma, the parents, Toni, the son and Monica, the daughter. Monica is married to Marc from the USA and has a small baby. Everyone lives on the hacienda. I can sleep, shower and eat there for a week and help out on 4 mornings, that's the deal. Toño and Toni talked a bit. It used to be purely an agricultural business and indigenous people worked there. As a child, Toño was not allowed to speak Quechua with the indigenous children, only Spanish. I think the family is upper middle class and has a few employees. Saylla was also a small village without electricity or telephone for a long time. It was only after an economic crisis in the 80s and when Cusco grew significantly that many people moved to the town. Toño doesn't like it that much; he used to know all the neighbors. Well, I think Toni and Monica aren't so unhappy about it. Toni is on home leave and studying in Valencia. Agriculture is no longer practiced; Today they host weddings and parties every weekend, up to 200 people, except now in the rainy season. Apparently it's worth it. On my first day I helped in the garden and had lunch with 2 workers. In the afternoon I wanted to hike a little, but these mutts were everywhere. The locals don't really mind, I prefer to turn back, even if they're probably just making a fool of themselves. There was a lot going on back, the extended family from Cusco was there for coffee. Of course I was invited straight away. I only understand a few words, but funny people.

Good Friday. Toño makes tortillas for breakfast. I'm helping in the garden again. I take the bus to Cusco, I have to go to a drugstore, but many shops are closed. I spend the afternoon with Maude. We first had something to eat in a better restaurant. Yes, you can do it, it was really good. Afterwards we looked at a few tattoo shops and Maude got a piercing. At first she wanted a tattoo too, then changed her mind. I found an artist that I will visit in the coming days. There was a procession again, but this time much smaller. The mother of Mary, Jesus' grandmother, is venerated. I don't know what great things she's done, but as far as I'm concerned they should do it. Unfortunately Maude and I parted ways and she traveled to Bolivia. People say they'll meet again, but secretly everyone knows that's not true. This is probably why these acquaintances are very open. Back at the hacienda, I couldn't help but eat dinner with the family.

Erantzun