5.1.2018: An underground photographic beauty

Today we continue north to Westport. On the way, I pass the Maori Sea Cave again and because only 1.5 hours have passed since low tide, I decide to try my luck again. This time it works, although I have to wade through knee-deep water to reach a section of the beach. However, the cave is still dry. There is a lot of activity under the stone bed. Dozens of spiders, woodlice, and small crabs flee as they feel the vibrations caused by my footsteps. What I didn't consider are the sandflies, which attack me in masses. Just when you forget to apply the Deet... The pests significantly interfere with my cave exploration as I am more occupied with swatting around me than anything else.

But even after I have retreated to the safety of the car: caves remain a topic. I have booked a Glowworm Cave Tour with Underworld Adventures at 11:30 a.m.

At the counter, I am told that during the tour, you only get to see 10% of the glowworms inhabiting the cave. Only the Blackwater Rafting tour offers the 'full program'. The last time I went blackwater rafting was four years ago in Waitomo. It is certainly more impressive, on the other hand, I don't feel like getting wet today. Last time, my wetsuit was too big, so the water that entered couldn't warm up and I became increasingly colder. In addition, my headlamp emitted only a very weak light and the photos taken by the provider were of rather poor quality. Today, at least I can take my own and I will not join the rafters.

First, we take a bus and then a small train deep into the bush. Then we climb about 130 steps up to the entrance of the cave. From here, we turn on our headlamps and venture into the darkness of New Zealand's largest cave system.

At some places, you have to bow down low to not hit your head on the sometimes low passages, although the helmet takes care of most of it. A dense network of stalactites and stalagmites lines our way, hanging like icicles from the ceiling or reaching out towards it. Eventually, we see light coming from the exit of the cave. Photographing the rainforest outside the dark cave requires a lot of patience and skill. Due to lack of both, my camera only captures moderately beautiful images, but they are firmly stored in my memory.

A few meters further, the next, if not THE highlight of our trip awaits. Thousands of glowworms light up in the darkness as soon as all lamps are extinguished. I did not expect there to be so many, and we are only talking about 10% of the population inhabiting the cave, as I mentioned earlier. Wow! In my opinion, the glowworm galaxy can even compete with the famous Waitomo Caves. Once again, my camera fails to capture the presented sight. The glowworms are only shown as blurry dots. However, thanks to the flash, I can capture their fishing threads, on which small insects get stuck. Before we make our way back, everyone turns off their headlamps once again and enjoys the magnificent sight in complete silence. By the way, glowworms are very territorial. Recently, our guide even witnessed a fight (apparently, it ended in a draw).

We return the same way we came earlier, but in the dark, it doesn't really matter (except for a few distinctive spots). Back in daylight, most people shed at least one layer of clothing because it is very humid and warm. We cross the bridge just in time to see the rafters floating on their tubes below us. With the train and bus, we head back to the base - some into the shower, others to the café, and me further to Westport.

The promenade in Westport is passed in just one minute. There is not much to see here, so most people use the city as a springboard to go further north to Golden Bay or south to Punakaiki. But wait, that's not entirely true. There is a seal colony, beaches for surfing, and a museum for those who want to stay a little longer.

My hostel is located in a quiet area and offers sufficient parking spaces. I have reserved the cheapest room by phone but after entering it, I change my mind because it is not only too small for three people but also located inside, facing the hallway where the air is already stale. No, thank you. I would rather pay an extra 5 NZD per night for a much more spacious bedroom and secure a window seat.