15.1.2018: Once the breakdown service, please...

Since it didn't rain yesterday and all night, I'm going to try my luck again with Rawhiti Cave and head out in water shoes and shorts. Surprisingly, I reach the completely dry riverbed where just the day before a raging stream carved its way. Even better.

After changing into my shoes, the difficult part begins - the strenuous climb over slippery rocks and tree roots that provide no grip for my hiking boots and trekking poles, causing me to stumble and curse internally time and time again. Within 10 minutes, I'm drenched in sweat. I continue to struggle, sometimes stumbling, uphill until finally, the long-awaited entrance to the cave comes into view. The effort was definitely worth it for the sight.

In the middle of nowhere lies one of the coolest, barely advertised, and freely accessible natural wonders of the entire South Island. The cave entrance is one of the largest in all of New Zealand, measuring 40m wide and 20m high. The ceiling is adorned with dozens of stalactites, some of which are home to nesting birds. I can't stop marveling. A staircase leads into the cave to a platform. On the way there, I stop dead in my tracks. Sitting in the middle of the narrow path in the semi-darkness is a spider the size of a saucer. I had heard about these giants. The legs of the Nelson Cave Spider can reach a length of 13-15cm, and its body measures an impressive 2.5cm. I definitely don't have the courage to pass by this monster. The path is too narrow to go around the spider with a proper safety distance, and too slippery to jump over it. I quickly google if the spider can jump and bite. It prefers to hunt the already huge wetas by dropping down from the cave wall onto them. One bite is known, which is considered painful but harmless. I struggle with myself for half an hour, checking every few minutes to see if the spider is still there. I don't dare to poke it with a stick from a distance or to step over it. Just when I'm about to give up, someone finally comes by whom I confidently approach. If he passes by unharmed, I would also (probably/hopefully) dare to do the same. The Swiss man approaches and states, "I don't think it's a spider." "What is it then?" I ask, astonished. He picks up a piece of wood and throws it at the spider, which doesn't react. "I think it's a tree root disguised as a spider." He quickly kicks the object of fear off the path, and I feel more than ashamed. I was actually afraid of a root - how embarrassing. Now that the path to the platform is clear, I finally get to enjoy it after all. I'm a little uneasy, fearing that one of the huge stalactites might break off and land on my head; thus, one should not linger in the cave longer than necessary. Now I have already lost a lot of time and hurry back on the few even, non-slippery sections.

Since the weather is good today, it's worth stopping at some viewpoints along Takaka Hill. One of them is Harwoods Lookout, whose parking bay only has room for three vehicles. A short walk of one minute leads to a small platform that offers a view of Takaka Valley.

Back at the car, it finally happens. From the beginning, the trunk lid closed with gentle force, but now it doesn't close at all. Great! Helplessly, I approach a couple who have the clever idea of holding the trunk shut with a rope so that they can at least drive to the next workshop. Luckily, Eric left me the clothesline, which now serves me well. So, I continue driving, carefully ignoring the flashing orange trunk control light. When I pass the turnoff to my next destination, I decide to call my car rental company Apex regarding the next steps. They tell me I can swap the car in Nelson. But I have already booked and paid for my accommodation for the next two days in Marahau, which is 60km away. I cautiously ask if it wouldn't be possible to drive to the workshop in Motueka (which is at least on the way) or, even better, have someone from the AA (New Zealand Automobile Association; equivalent to the ADAC) come over. The lady affirms, and shortly afterwards, I receive a text message that help will arrive in 60 minutes. One of the few sunny days, and I spend it waiting in a parking lot. In the meantime, I chat with an American who is also traveling alone and pet a little puppy that stops for a pee break with its owner and can be "let go" on command. After exactly one hour, a young man in a pickup truck arrives at the parking lot and quickly repairs the trunk lid. Hooray, I can continue driving and don't have to go to the workshop.

After signing and thanking once again, I finally visit Hawkes Lookout, where I have been lingering in the parking lot for quite some time. On the way to the visitor platform, a pig digging the ground right by the path and rubbing against the tree entertains the visitors, which doesn't seem to be bothered by the people at all.

After a short consideration, it is clear that I want to stick to my original itinerary despite the late hour. I had actually crossed Harwoods Hole off my list because the approach is considered difficult and the view hardly worthwhile, but I already had to give up on several things anyway, so I might as well include Harwoods Hole. I sweat quite a bit on the 12km gravel road. The warning sign didn't lie. The road is so narrow that passing each other turns out to be a real challenge. On the way there, I'm lucky and encounter oncoming traffic at exactly three wider spots. To the right, there's a yawning abyss - very encouraging. Exactly the kind of road that I can't stand at all: gravel, full of potholes and large stones, unprotected, sometimes steep and narrow. It takes 12km at 20-30km/h, and after half an hour, I'm glad to reach the surprisingly crowded parking lot.

After finding the entrance, I walk briskly through the forest until it becomes very rocky and slippery 15 minutes before the destination. There are large and small rocks to overcome until the warning sign appearing on my right indicates the destination in close proximity. There are no safety barriers, but even though the temptation is great, one should not venture too close to the 50m wide abyss. It goes about 180m down from here. The cave is 357m deep and 70m wide. And once again, next time I watch 'The Hobbit,' I should pay close attention. You probably already guessed it: another film location.

On the way back, the detour to Gorge Creek Lookout is worth it, even though it requires a lot of effort. Over sharp karst rock, which definitely requires sturdy footwear, you reach another unprotected viewpoint that requires extreme caution in strong wind. The view over Takaka Valley and Gorge Creek is phenomenal. Ah, if only time weren't pressing. I hate rushing.

More than happy to have asphalt under my wheels again on the highway, I drive to Riwaka Resurgence once again to check if the pool, advertised as cobalt blue, is of a more intense color with a clear sky than during my first visit, but that's not the case. Well, it was worth a try. Maybe I just interpret cobalt blue incorrectly.

At 7:30 PM, two hours later than planned, I reach my accommodation for the next two nights in Marahau. It doesn't feel comfortable, primarily due to its sheer size. During check-in, you receive an overview map showing the cabins, showers, kitchens, etc. The cabins are clean, and the mattresses are comfortable, but every day, two full buses of the company 'Stray' unload an abundance of young people who populate the kitchens and bathrooms and unfortunately often leave a mess behind. There are only 4 cooking plates available in one kitchen, but at least enough refrigerators. Cooking is no fun when you constantly step on each other's toes, but fortunately, the day is almost over, and after dinner and a lukewarm shower, I retreat to my room.