Let's go to Oradea

On Tuesday morning (08/01/2017), I will spend some more time in the thermal bath at the campsite. Around 4:00 PM, it will be time to head south-southeast. I plan to cover about 15km to Hosszúpályi in the afternoon. The southern part of Debrecen, which we will pass through at the beginning of our tour today, is characterized by single-family houses with small gardens. The occasional tree along the way provides some shade, and we make good progress. After about an hour and four and a half kilometers, we reach a forest area that is only occasionally interrupted by garden plots and pastures. During a short break, while I was setting down my backpack to refill water, we suddenly find ourselves in the midst of a small herd of cattle. Rango seems a bit unsure how to deal with the situation, but remains relatively calm. After the animals have passed, we continue on our way. I had hoped to be able to take a refreshing swim along the way, but the intended body of water was once again not accessible. We reach our destination around 8:00 PM and can even do some shopping before we start looking for a suitable place to spend the night. My map shows a path into 'nowhere' at the southern edge of the settlement, promising an undisturbed overnight stay. On the way there, a young man on his motor scooter stops us and advises us to camp on a cross street further in the village. I make everyone in the neighborhood aware of our presence - all the farm dogs greet us with sometimes hysterical barking. I don't find this spot particularly ideal, the only possible place to pitch the tent is an empty building plot between single-family houses. However, since it is already late and dark, I decide to set up the tent anyway. After washing up a little - I am currently sitting naked in my tent - the Rendőrség arrives (the Hungarian police). They take down my personal information and inquire about the purpose and duration of my stay. In the meantime, some of the residents gather at the opposite garden fence. I decide to say 'Jó estét' and apologize for the disturbance during the night using my translation app. Someone offers me some water and they can tolerate my presence until the next morning. The police also have no objection after checking the information on my ID card, so I crawl back into the tent with Rango.

On Wednesday morning, we start early and take the first break after about 7km, just before Konyári-Sóstófürdő. Here, too, there should be a small lake, about 350m wide. But there is nothing to be seen except relatively dry pastureland for miles around. The temperatures have exceeded the 30°C mark again, and our path offers little shade. I decide to take advantage of the rest of the day to make my way to Oradea, the nearest major city in Romania, using public transportation. There is a blue drinking water pump at the bus stop in Konyári, and I use the waiting time to shower and do laundry. I can also get Rango excited about the cool water. I reach Biharkeresztes in the afternoon via Nagykereki, the last village with a train connection before the Hungarian-Romanian border. I missed the only train of the day by about an hour. After some inquiring, it seems that a Romanian bus, about half an hour later, will allow me to continue. Unfortunately, the driver refuses to take Rango, claiming that it is only a minibus. After thinking about my situation for a while, I decide to use my last forints for a taxi ride to Oradea. Alternatively, according to the map, it would have been possible to stay overnight at a body of water about 3km away. However, I have had mixed experiences with bodies of water in Hungary so far. I can get off directly at the 'Robinson Country Club' campsite around 5:00 PM and settle down. The campsite has a kitchen, a small restaurant, a nice pool, and is not far from the city center. Just right to spend my 32nd birthday here the next day. After a short first visit to the old town, I go to bed quite early.

The next morning starts earlier than I would like, the morning sun drives me out of the tent shortly after seven. This seems even earlier, as I have left the Schengen area and reached a new time zone with the border crossing. I spend the first half of the day mainly with an extensive brunch, splashing in the pool, and lounging in a deck chair near the tent. In the late afternoon, I go to the old town with Diana and Jack, two Australians I met the previous evening, by bike. We treat ourselves to an ice cream (one scoop is enough), ride along the bank of the fast-flowing Crişul Repede, and cross it to Piaţa 1 Decembrie. This square is surrounded by beautiful representative townhouses, similar to those on the other side of the river on Strada Republicii and near the city center. Otherwise, the city is characterized by one- to two-story streets and housing estates, similar to Debrecen. Along the way, I buy a fishing license and we also make a detour to Cetadea Oradea. Unfortunately, my companions don't feel like exploring it in more detail, and we go back to the campsite after a shared dinner. I treat myself to an evening tour of Großwardein and buy some fresh meat for Rango.

After Rango refuses to eat the rabbit I bought the night before, I decide to extend my stay in Oradea for another day (August 4, 2017). I take the opportunity to do some laundry and portion the rabbit for later meals. After enjoying a fried portion of it for lunch, Rango suddenly shows interest in the rabbit and gets to devour most of it. I spend the rest of the day alternating between the pool and the deck chair. Two Dutch people who arrived the previous evening turn out to be very humorous companions, and so this day also flies by.