Pack Creek and Thrills

The salmon still haven't found their way to Pack Creek on Amiralty Island, but our pilot did. He dropped off 5 tourists and the guide on the beach. With our hip-high rubber boots, we were able to reach the beach without getting our feet wet.

No infrastructure at all, only a ranger sitting on a rocky outcrop with his backpack and a rifle, waiting for our arrival. Our guide provided the food, which was already transported in a bear-proof box, in a further bear-proof hiding place. We were given detailed information about our behavior and that the top priority was not to disturb the bears.

In the high season, starting from July 5th, the island has 24 permits per day, currently there are fewer. We walk along the sandy beach to the point where we want to watch bears, without a ranger. On the left side, the guide shows us trails that the bears use to come to the beach. We have to keep an eye on them. Yes, it was exciting, whether we would see brown bears or not, but we weren't afraid. First, we saw Sitka black-tailed deer, then two brown bears digging for clams near the sea. From behind, a mama bear with her cub came. The bear is famously not a fan of humans, so we observed them all from a distance. We were all a bit disappointed....

After a sandwich lunch on a rock at the front of the beach, we walked back to the observation post, which, by the way, only had logs on the ground and a second armed ranger, and there was still not much going on. A bear that had made its way from one of the trails described earlier during lunch started to drive away the two clam diggers - by the way, 1.5-year-old siblings - from the beach towards our observation post, closer, but not really close.

When we have to cross the bear on the beach for the return flight after 4 hours back to the starting point, it's like, okay, we have to cross the bear! How exciting! We walk slowly... we didn't know how slow slow can be. The bear is skeptical, interrupts his clam digging and watches what we are doing exactly. For us, this means stopping and standing really close together. If we appear too big or move too fast, it's aggressive for the bears. So, wait until he starts digging again and then slowly continue to ensure the well-being of the bear, which is our top priority. How cool was that!! The bear was soooo close, really fantastic! No fence, no moat. A special atmosphere. We are thrilled!

Since we are on the waiting list for the ferry to Skagway on July 4th, we squeeze in a hike to the Herbert Glacier for relaxation. Fantastic rainforest and a rugged glacier tongue with deep crevices that shine beautifully blue in the sun. There's Marendas on the warm rocks by the raging glacier river, a very nice day.

For relaxation, there's housekeeping and 'pacific' in the sun. On the 4th, things start to get exciting. First, we find out that the Malaspina is also having problems and will arrive late. 12:30 standby instead of 07:30 sounds good. By the time the boat actually arrives, it's already around 15:45. In the second act, a surreal unloading and loading dance begins. Have enough "running meters" been unloaded to make room for the confirmed tickets and for our tiny waiting list spot? Shuut, there goes a giant trailer into a ship. We could have fit in there three times. Everything is cool, but not knowing if we're on it and the prospect of several potential repetitions of this game is exciting in an unpleasant way. At 18:00, all confirmed vehicles are on board.

The guy with the stern look and the yellow vest waves. We are invited, UFFF!