#120 The silver shimmer in the rain and the Blue Eye

May 2-3, 2022: Gjirokastra, Blue Eye

F. When we arrived in Gjirokastra, it was still raining, and so the phrase from one of our travel guides fit like a glove: Albania's 'Stone City' is a silvery beauty that shimmers in the rain. The many gray stone houses on the mountainside were able to shine a little in the rain. With an umbrella and rain jacket, we set off to explore the old town and strolled through the old bazaar, which is now a souvenir paradise.

Sightseeing in the rain is only half as much fun, so we sat down in a small restaurant that was completely crowded. We got the last place on the outdoor terrace, which was only 95% protected from the rain and was located in front of the kitchen entrance. Next to us were three men who were obviously friends of the restaurant owner and were drinking a little raki. There was a family atmosphere in this part of the restaurant. The mother (cook) or the father constantly came out of the kitchen and brought new vegetables or other ingredients from somewhere. Our food came in stages, and so we enjoyed the four ordered dishes individually. In the end, we were served cake and raki on the house, as almost all other guests had left and we were now almost the only guests. In addition, the father and the three other men at the neighboring table began to sing a traditional song, where only one person seems to sing a text and the rest make harmonious sounds or text phrases. The restaurant visit had been well worth it, as we not only enjoyed good traditional food but also got to experience Albanian culture.

The next day, during a break in the rain, we went to the castle of Gjirokastra. It also includes a very informative and vivid museum about the history of Gjirokastra and Albania, as well as two other museums, which are much less spectacular. One is the old prison from the Soviet era within the castle walls, and the other is a weapons museum.

When we arrived at the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër) in the afternoon, we had sunshine again, and so we could admire the full range of colors of this natural beauty. This spring brings 6,000-8,000 liters per second to the surface, creating a deep blue color against the backdrop of the bright limestone in the sunlight. The exact depth of the spring or why it temporarily dried up in 2004 has not yet been explored.

Day 200 - Total tour 15,424 km

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