Day 18 - Torghatten

Today we start early, we have a full schedule. The first point on this schedule is of course Torghatten. This mountain is famous for its characteristic shape, resembling a hat, and the hole in the center. It dates back to the time when the land mass rose again after the melting of the great glaciers of the last ice age (and it still does today, up to 10 mm per year), and is probably created by erosion from the sea. Today, the hole is far above sea level.

From the parking lot, it's not a long climb, just a bit steep and rocky. It's not a problem, but I have my knee that might cause problems. But it should be fine, I have the brace and enough Voltaren. And this time I'll take it slow on the way down, instead of rushing like I usually do. The path soon turns into a field of larger boulders, with a staircase made of flatter stones leading through it, probably from this field. At the foot of the staircase, a view opens up that immediately brings to mind The Lord of the Rings. At the top of this rocky staircase, there is a huge black hole in the rock. I imagine it like the entrance to the Mines of Moria. However, without the gate. Behind us, a wonderful view of Brønnøysund and the fjord landscape. Absolutely breathtaking. When I reach the top, I am even more amazed. I see the "hole" in all its glory. It is an enormously high vault, like a cathedral, and you feel small and humble when you look up inside. At the other end, you can see small islands or skerries. Again, no picture can capture the incredible beauty and size of this place. You have to experience it with your own eyes!

We make our way back down with a sense of happiness, and with careful steps, I manage to avoid major knee pain. This gives hope that I can do some not too difficult hikes on the Lofoten Islands.

We head back to the E6 north, but first we drive a good distance in the wrong direction to Steinkjer, because once again I didn't believe my girlfriend that we didn't pass by here on the way here. Lesson learnt.

A short distance on the E6 later, we pass by Laksfossen, a waterfall that is quite impressive due to the sheer amount of water that cascades down and its width.

The day ends in Mo i Rana, an industrial city at the end of the Ranfjord. From there, it's not far to the Arctic Circle. By the way, you can already feel the proximity to the Arctic Circle, it's still far from dark at 11 p.m.

For me, sleeping is only possible with earplugs tonight. Not far away is a steel hut that generates a constant noise level. For Janina, it's not a problem, she seems to be able to fall asleep even under constant artillery fire.