Los Alerces National Park - Cookies are everywhere... at least we thought so

As planned, we want to take the bus to Esquel from El Maitén on Tuesday, and after a few attempts, we actually find the only kiosk that sells bus tickets. However, we are sent away twice here as well, because once the nice man doesn't have the tickets and the other time (on the morning of the departure day) he clearly indicates that he is NOT currently working for the bus company and we should come back at 2:30pm, because THEN he works for them. Aha. Interesting.

However, everything eventually works out and we arrive in Esquel in the evening, the starting point for excursions to our next destination: Los Alerces National Park. At least we thought so. The posters of an over 2600-year-old Alerce tree (a cypress-like tree), among other things, promise a lot. And so we go directly to the tourist information to get extensive information. At least we thought so. We don't get much information about the park there, we should inquire in the park's tourist information. But what we do find out is that there are exactly 3 buses per week to the (only) 42km away, over 2600 km2 large reserve. Fortunately, the next one leaves the following day at 8:00 a.m., and after 3 or 4 days another one returns. Alright, so we'd better look for accommodation right away. But even that is not so easy, there seem to be many campsites and a few cabins, but we can't find any way to book online. The hostel employee doesn't know about the park either, but he calls his friend (who works at the campsite there) and kindly lets us use the phone. But still, we can't get all the information we would like. At least we are told that it is possible to get food in the only semi-inhabited part of the park. Well, after a nice conversation with German bicycle tourists from Dresden, we decide to just take the bus the next day and see what happens on site. Fortunately, we remember to refill the gasoline stove...

The next morning, we arrive as planned in Villa Futalaufquen (the tiny village in the national park) where the aforementioned tourist information is located. There we will surely get all the information. At least we thought so. Cabins? There are not many, the nearest ones are 7km away. But we should inquire at a specific campsite, maybe there are some there. Hiking map? No, there is none available at the moment, and most of the trails are still closed because we are in the pre-season (the high season starts after Christmas) and the trails have not been repaired yet. Boats? Well, there is only one left, which goes to the old Alerce tree, but it only sails if at least 15 people come together, so we should ask in our (non-existent) accommodation. Buying food? Yes, there are a few mini-shops at the campsites and in the 'village', but at this time they probably don't have much selection. Alright, thank you very much for the detailed information! So, we march to a campsite that also rents tents and stay the first night here. There is also a bike rental and a restaurant, great! At least we thought so... The bicycles are not ready yet and the restaurant is still closed during this time. We set up our rental tent and explore the 'village' before starting our first small hike (with a little wave action for Jan) along the shore of Lake Futalaufquen. To our great joy, we actually find a small store with fruits & vegetables! Our salvation. We stock up on plenty of food for the next 4 days, because who knows if we will come across food again. Well, at least there are cookies available EVERYWHERE here... at least we thought so.

But even though the arrival and the flow of information are a bit slow, the landscape immediately makes up for it! The lake is beautiful and idyllically situated, with virtually no development along the shores. Pure nature. The starry sky is gigantic, thanks to the lack of light pollution, even more so than at the observatory. And thanks to a small wifi signal at the campsite, we can even book the cabins for the next 3 nights via WhatsApp, because it gets pretty cold in the tent at night.

But how do you get to the cabin in the national park that is 7km away without a car and with hardly any tourists? The next bus leaves on Saturday, so that's not an option. And walking with our already too heavy luggage, which is now hardly heavy at all because of the felt 10kg food supplies, is also not an option. So, once again, we use our thumbs and meet a very friendly couple from Buenos Aires, who drive us right to the door of our accommodation while we have a great conversation.

From this moment on, the relaxed part of the journey begins again. The cabin with its own kitchen is great, with a panoramic view of the lake and no human soul in sight (except for the owners). We take a leisurely stroll to a nearby waterfall and go to the only 'real' hotel in the area. According to the accommodation, you can also buy tickets for the boat trip there, and who knows, maybe there is also a small kiosk with the necessary groceries (beer and cookies). At least we thought so.

There is no store, but there is a restaurant that actually serves dinner every day from 9-11 p.m. And it looks beautiful too! Very well, so we don't have to be quite so frugal with our supplies. However, we are informed about the boat situation. The big boat is not sailing (yet?), there is only a small one for 12 people and the tickets must be purchased online. However, it costs a whopping 65€ per person!! Unbelievable, so we won't visit the old Alerce tree, it's not worth that much to us. There is no access to the other - partly 4000-year-old Alerces - anyway.

Despite all that, we have had beautiful days in the national park, found a few small hiking trails, and one afternoon it was so hot that we lay by the lakeshore and even went swimming twice (very briefly)! Super cold but also super refreshing!

During dinner at the restaurant, we meet our lovely couple from BAires again, who are staying at this hotel. On the way back, we would prefer to turn off our flashlights and just look up, the starry sky is so beautiful!

The following day, we want to go to other lakes in the park and stand by the road in the morning. Today there is even a bus that we are waiting for. But not even 5 minutes of waiting, the familiar red SUV of our couple drives up! They are on their way back and of course take us with them again! All four of us can hardly believe that our paths are crossing once again! After another very entertaining ride, they drop us off exactly at our destination and we hike across a suspension bridge, along the shores of the neighboring lakes, and through the home of Pumas. One has a slightly uneasy feeling, but since they don't show up even when cooking rice by the lake, they seem to not be hungry. We also go back with nice hitchhikers, one of them a fisherman with his son looking for a cellphone signal to call his wife. But fortunately, there are occasional signs along the roadside saying: HERE there is a cellphone signal! In the evening, we go to the good restaurant nearby again, and on Sunday we return to Esquel to travel to Chile from there on Monday (yes, this bus only runs every few days). At least we think so :)