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13. Etappe nach Rabanal del Camino

Argitaratu: 13.11.2023

Today I woke up at 6:15 and was shocked that the pilgrim in the other bed next to me had already left without me noticing anything. This is really something special. Anyway, I packed up my things and left shortly before 7. Then there were two alternatives. I chose the shorter one because it wasn't dark anyway and wouldn't have seen much. Unfortunately I didn't look up what the route was like. Because it led in the dark into a forest with unsecured ground and then a long stretch along the highway, which I also had to cross. So it was very adventurous early in the morning and a little dangerous. And all of this on an empty stomach. Then we went back along forest paths with beautiful views to Astorga. On the way I saw a deer and a gigantic cross. With 13,500 inhabitants, the city is already big and actually worth a longer stay, but I got breakfast at the nearest supermarket and then sat on a bench in the city center with a view of the cathedral and spent my break. After half an hour we continued. And the path went along a country road that felt like a car drove past every hour. I didn't see any pilgrims until Astorga, but I saw a few after that. Generally I felt good and fit, but I had a stomach ache and walking with it wasn't that fun. In addition, the sun can come out and I was warm but also cold at the same time. The path was long and I wanted to take a short break in a café in the next town, but of course all the shops were closed. I had already given up hope and just before leaving town there was a sign for an albergue with a bar. I thought to myself, I can take a look because it was only 200m away. And I was actually lucky. I treated myself to a large coffee with milk and after using the toilet I continued in a good mood. In addition, there were only 8km left, which took a while, but I finally made it and reached my destination, Rabanal del Camino. I couldn't go to the actual accommodation because it was closed, but the church one is right next to it. A large dormitory with 10 double beds. Simple, but the beds are comfortable. And for €10 you can't complain. The sleeping area is in the basement and upstairs is the kitchen and since it is an old house, you can hear every step. I took a shower first and since I was the first one, I was able to choose a bed. I took a bed upstairs because of the socket. I don't think all the beds will be occupied. As of now there are three people there including me. You could also eat something in the other hostel, but unfortunately not here. But I'll be on my way straight away. There are 2 corner shops around the corner and I'll get my dinner there, but before that I should check how the kitchen is equipped. I have already booked my accommodation in Ponferrada for tomorrow. I'll take a look at the route straight away.

Update: I explored the area. I found the small supermarket, which is very manageable. And the prices are already extreme. Of course, supply and demand if there is no real supermarket in the town. I got two small baguettes and cookies. Then I explored the place a little, visited the church, which was surprisingly open, and found another kiosk that belongs to a hostel, but is simply even more expensive. That's why I went back to accommodation and treated myself to the baguettes with butter and sauces (salsa, ketchup and mayo) and I still had my Fanta Lemon. Then a few more cookies and that was it for today. Tomorrow there will be restaurants again in Ponferrada. I'll probably go out to eat again sometime. Otherwise I'm always in the contradiction between not eating too much and still enjoying the vacation. I could have bought a few things in the supermarket in the first town in Astorga and now I could also cook, but then I would have had to carry it with me and secondly you never know for sure whether there is a cooking option. When in doubt, I always try to buy less. There's something in the destination, even if it's a little more expensive, but that's still better than walking around with all the stuff all the time. After eating my dinner, I went back to the dorm and lo and behold, it was filling up. There are already over 12 beds occupied and it's possible that everything will be full. In general, I prefer accommodations with more privacy and fewer rooms in the room, but in this place you couldn't book anything in advance and you also have to be a little prepared for the Camino. Even though I don't think I'll sleep much tonight because 2 people have already talked about how they're both masters of snoring. I am excited. And then there is the smell. So I know that I'm on a pilgrimage and sometimes I haven't washed for a few days. Today my shirt smelled a little. That's why I washed it straight away. I would like to say that I'm not picky at all, but there are some people - I have no idea what they do - they smell so pungent. I had one of these in my first accommodation. It was 3 beds away, but you could still smell it. I don't know if it's because I've gotten older, but these are the reasons why I prefer smaller accommodations or, sometimes, a single room for a few euros more. For me, group accommodation on the Camino de Santiago is definitely part of it, but it's different when you sleep in a room with 50 people or in a four-bed room. I'll combine it as always. Wherever possible, I take the more private accommodations and otherwise I just go along with it. Because of course I could also take a single room here in town, but for 60-70€, where I feel like I'm only there for a few hours and then go to sleep and then unfortunately the quality is rather poor, I'm too stingy, or so I see not a. I'm glad it's not summer, but in this heat such extreme group accommodation would be very funny. Anyway, I'm already in bed. I just talked to a few. A few have gone out to eat now, but I'm relaxing in bed and will head out in the morning.

In that sense: good night

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