On the coast in Kurland

Saturday, June 22nd:

The last section of our bike tour is coming up. About 450 km along the coast of Latvian Kurland. The first 40 km from Riga to the coast are mostly bike paths and thanks to the navigation system, we find our way easily.

After that, we continue along a provincial road along the coast. However, this doesn't mean we can see the coast. No, there are trees on the right, trees on the left, and the road in between. Today there is also quite a bit of traffic because Midsummer Night is celebrated in the Baltics on June 23rd. Strong headwinds also make the ride more challenging, so we pedal as much as we can until we reach our destination of Roja after 120 km. A seaside town with a small harbor, but not much else besides a few supermarkets. Beautiful village design is not a topic in these regions.

Sunday, June 23rd:

From Roja, we continue to keep a safe distance from the coast until we reach Cape Kolka. The route is monotonous and there isn't much to see besides trees! Along the way, we meet a German cyclist who is coming from Klaipeda and recommends that we continue taking the provincial roads to avoid the sandy tracks. We gladly take this advice! At Cape Kolka, we are only 38 km as the crow flies from the Estonian island of Saaremaa, but unfortunately, we can't see it today. On the beach, there is a pile of wood and a gate made of leaves for the Midsummer Night celebration. Today, all the local women are wearing flower wreaths in their hair.

It is still a long way to Ventspils and we struggle to make progress kilometer by kilometer. Thanks to the navigation system, we quickly find the large campground, which is bustling due to the holiday. It is also not easy to find a restaurant for dinner. The city, formerly known as Windau, has some interesting corners in the old town, but they are deserted today. We end the day with a beer at the campground after a 125 km bike ride.

Monday, June 24th:

As soon as we leave Ventspils, the road becomes quiet and the area is sparsely populated. Every 20 km, there are a few farms. After 70 km, we reach Pavilosta, where we fuel up for the next leg of the journey at the beautiful Baltic Sea beach. With the wind at our backs again, we make good progress and find a very nice accommodation in Liepāja after 125 km. The former Liebau was an important port for many decades and in the early 20th century, it even offered ship connections to New York, which were used by hundreds of thousands of emigrants. Today, there are some old Navy ships in the harbor, from where there is also a ferry connection to Travemünde. The old town with the storage houses, the Trinity Cathedral, and the new concert hall 'Der große Bernstein' is interesting to explore.

Tuesday, June 25th:

We did it!!! After 3400 km of pedaling, we have arrived in Klaipeda. How far away that seemed on May 9th when we disembarked from MS Vesteralen in Kirkenes. Today, we had another 105 km to go, the first 60 km in one stretch to the border with Lithuania. In Lithuania, there was a well-developed and asphalted bike path often close to the crowded beaches. Along the way, a couple approached us who had done parts of the ICT and now regretted having to take it easy.

In the late afternoon, we arrive in Klaipeda and have booked a room at the Bike Friendly House. There, we even get to taste the owner's homemade beer.

Tomorrow, as a "reward," we will take a ride on the Curonian Spit.