September 2020 - Venice

Venice is a tourist city to the core. Everyone here, from gondoliers to hoteliers, is somehow involved with visitors from around the world. While residents were complaining about overtourism last year, since Corona, everyone is happy if at least some tourists come.

Especially the travelers from America and the far East are missing, like the Japanese and the Chinese. But the rich Arabs and Russians were also welcome here.

I am aware of all this and yet I have to admit that I find it very pleasant here in Venice right now. Currently, only Europeans are in the city and it is not crowded. And yet, there are queues with significant waiting times in front of the main attractions. For example, we had to wait about an hour in front of the Doge's Palace. However, this is also due to the fact that only a few tourists are allowed in at the same time. Everywhere distance is observed, which is of course absolutely correct! By the way, our body temperature was measured in the hotel, at the train station, and before entering the Doge's Palace.

The Doge's Palace

Speaking of Doges: Did you know that this title was not inherited like with kings, but was awarded through an election? However, only male noblemen from the Great Council were eligible. The election process itself, however, was quite complicated.

It started with a boy of about 10 years old being chosen on St. Mark's Square. He then drew 30 lottery balls from an urn in the first round. These 30 were also reduced to 9 by lottery.

Now one might think that the Doge was eventually chosen from these 9, but no! The 9 only chose candidates, namely 40 in total.

I could go into more detail now, but that would go too far. Because there were 4 more rounds, which were similar to the one described above. Always a mixture of lottery and election. In the end, there were 41 nominees from which one was selected as the future Doge in an assembly.

And why all this? Because family dynasties, like in other Italian cities, were to be avoided. Because one thing a Doge had was power! It was also virtually a lifelong position. Although one could be removed, one could not resign.

Nowadays you can see the Doge's workplace personally. However, a ticket costs a proud 25 euros. This price also includes additional museums.

At the end of the visit to the Doge's Palace, you also have the opportunity to walk over the Bridge of Sighs to the prison. Here you can take a last look at freedom, just like the prisoners did back then.

St. Mark's Basilica

However, we left the Doge's Palace unharmed. Just around the corner, you can visit St. Mark's Square with St. Mark's Basilica.

Early arrival is worthwhile here as well, as long lines always form. Opening hours on the Internet are only guidelines, both the Doge's Palace and the bell tower on St. Mark's Square were open earlier than described. However, the church opened later.

Unfortunately, we were unable to visit St. Mark's Basilica ourselves due to construction work, but the museum is open. The entrance fee is 5 euros, and you get to see artifacts in the exhibition and you can also walk on the roof of St. Mark's Basilica. From here, you get another interesting view of St. Mark's Square.

Water Buses/Vaporetto

Venice relies entirely on water for transportation. It is worth investing in day or multi-day tickets here. For example, 72-hour tickets cost 40 euros, but that is money well spent. You will often use the water buses, called the Vaporetto here. After all, Venice is a city made up of islands and only Jesus could walk on water.

No longer a secret tip, but still worth mentioning, is taking a budget-friendly city tour with Vaporetto line 1. The Vaporetto stops often and passes by many important highlights of the city. Just sit down, take out your camera, and enjoy.

San Giorgio Maggiore

Another tip is to take the Vaporetto to San Giorgio Maggiore. The small island is only one stop away from St. Mark's Square, right across from it. Here there is a church and (Attention!) a bell tower. It is much less popular than its big brother on St. Mark's Square. The advantage, therefore: No waiting in line and the price is lower at 6 euros. And here, too, an elevator takes you up and the view is great. However, it can happen that you are suddenly jolted out of your dreams by the precise ringing of one of the tower bells at least every quarter of an hour. It is so loud that we had to cover our ears after the first shock.

Lido

Otherwise, we can only advise you to let yourself drift in Venice. Everything is interesting in its own way, and getting lost here does not necessarily mean being wrong. That also applies to riding the Vaporetto. We have boarded just any line several times and let ourselves be inspired. That's how we ended up in Lido, too. The narrow holiday island is more generously built than Venice, and things are just somehow more relaxed here. There is also a beach, and suddenly and unexpectedly I found myself with my feet in the warm sea.

Murano

We also went to Murano unplanned, just like to Lido. With line 7, which happened to come, you can go there directly with few intermediate stops. However, that's why we were dropped off in Murano Navagero and got the impression that Murano had nothing worth seeing at all. Here we sat in a trattoria surrounded by workers. By the way, they also like to have Aperol Spritz during their lunch break. Of course, the prices here were much cheaper than in Venice, and the latte macchiato was the best we have had in Italy so far. If you ever come to Murano, we recommend walking further or taking another line directly to Murano Museo. Here you will find all the many shops where you can buy everything from kitsch to art made of Murano glass.

Department Store Fondaco dei Tedeschi

The 'warehouse of the Germans' as the department store Fondaco dei Tedeschi is translated, is a temple of luxury, just like the KaDeWe in Berlin or the Galeries Lafayette in Paris. Actually, this is not our price range, but I still have a recommendation: There is a rooftop terrace here that you can visit for free. However, since this has now become known, you have to book an appointment in advance. Here is the link:

https://www.dfs.com/t-fondaco/rooftop-terrace-booking/booking/terrace_venice_en.html

Every quarter of an hour, registered guests are then allowed onto the rooftop and experience a wow moment. The spontaneous sentence from a tourist behind me sums it up well, 'I'm going to get my telephoto lens out right away'. From the roof of Fondaco dei Tedeschi, you have a wonderful panoramic view and can see both the Grand Canal and the roofs of Venice. But be careful with your hats, otherwise, they might end up on the roof, like on my photo....