4.2.2018: Whale and Dolphin Watching

While Isa gets up early in the morning to attend the 7:45 AM Whale Watch Tour, I have to wait until 9:15 AM to find out that the seal swimming activity is canceled again for the entire day. When I get my refund at the iSite, the staff asks me if I want to sign up for the 10:30 AM Whale Watch Tour. This surprises me because online everything was fully booked except for the 7:45 AM tour. Furthermore, I learned from Isa that today only three boats are going out - the last one at 8:15 AM. I say yes, but I don't have much hope. I can handle one hour of waiting. During that time, I drive out to the Point Kean Seal Colony, where today there is only one representative present. Four years ago, there was much more activity here. However, the view of the Kaikoura Ranges is even more beautiful. Just in time, I arrive at the ticket counter of Whale Watch Kaikoura, but it may take a while due to the long line. When I finally get my turn, I can hardly believe that the tour is actually happening. Although the monitor displays a "High sea sickness warning", I accept it. Overjoyed to be able to experience at least one of my two water activities, I enter the briefing room and wisely take a tablet. Five minutes later, one of the employees announces that the tour is canceled due to rough sea conditions. It would have been too good to be true. While I line up again, this time to get my refund, I receive a message from Isa that unfortunately they didn't see any whales, but the tour was still very nice. My credit card is already in the card reader when the same staff member from before announces that the 10:30 AM group should gather in the briefing room; only the 11:00 AM tour is canceled. The sympathetic employee behind the counter falls asleep, her face turns red, she starts sweating and is visibly under stress. The first disappointed customers have already left. Chaos in front of and behind the counters. Carefully, I ask if the boat trip makes any sense if the last group didn't see any whales (in that case, you get 80% of the price refunded). Meanwhile, whales have been located, I am told; it would have failed only because of the rough sea conditions. If only I had arrived two minutes earlier, I would never have known that my boat had still left. After the safety briefing, we get on the bus, where everyone's name is called out again. About 20-30% are not present and have unfortunately missed their chance due to the misinformation. After a short drive, we reach the boat pier and initially take a seat inside.

After a few minutes, I move outside to join the others and feel the wind on my face. Our destination is two more Whale Watch boats that have located two schools of dolphins frolicking around a humpback whale. Just the sight of the socially interacting and jumping dolphins has already made the tour worthwhile. One of them is in a particularly good mood today; it spins in the air in one spiral after another. And if nothing breaks the surface of the water, there is still a relaxed seal floating on its back and albatrosses to admire. But as soon as the humpback whale appears, it steals the show from everyone. Twice it shows its long-awaited tail fin, but most of the time you can only see its back and blowhole. Once it turns upside down and swims headfirst. The biggest highlight and surprise of all is its colossal leap out of the water. Amazing!

300 photos later, it's unfortunately time to say goodbye. It is with reluctance that we part from the lively dolphins and the humpback whale. On the other hand, the seasickness has gradually overcome the effects of the tablet by now. I'm starting to feel increasingly uncomfortable. As long as the whales and dolphins entertained us, it was bearable, but on the bumpy return journey, I have to take deep breaths. But it was worth it.

Back on land, I treat myself to a late lunch in the form of a portion of Fish & Chips (a must for all Kaikoura visitors!) in a very busy restaurant. But now I have to hurry. After all, I still have a long way to go.

After 70 km, a road branches off from the highway towards Gore Bay, which rejoins the same highway after 20 km. Just two minutes' drive from the beach with its busy campsite, you will find the Cathedral Cliffs, which are eroded pillars of siltstone that resemble the Omarama Clay Cliffs. I'm almost glad that you can only admire them from a viewpoint, otherwise I would have felt compelled to go on an extensive hike again. But this way, it's just a nice 5-minute stopover.

Because the day has now advanced far, I first call Ashburton, which is right on the highway, to inquire about accommodation. But there is nothing available anymore. In Methven, 30 km away and far from the main route, I finally find something. In summer, it is a sleepy little place where even some accommodations close their doors, but in winter Methven is bustling. It is the closest town to the Mount Hutt ski resort, where even the South Korean Olympic team has trained. Methven also served as a place of accommodation for film crews and actors during the filming at Mount Sunday, better known as Edoras in 'The Lord of the Rings', which was filmed further inland. But until then, there are still just under 200 km to go, which I only interrupt for a refueling stop in Amberley (north of Christchurch). I reach my destination tired at 7:45 PM. At least I have the dorm room all to myself, while the men, who all have jobs here, have to share theirs.