Gravel Road heading South

Unfortunately, the bus is not nicely oriented towards the east this time, so I can only see the sunrise over the headland from the beach. While brewing coffee, I receive a curious visitor, it could be a pheasant. I drive back to the main road over the unbarred railway crossing; today I want to head southwest through the Awatere Valley, and I should reach my destination, Hanmer Springs, tomorrow.

It's about 100 km to Molesworth Ranch, the largest farm in NZ with around 10,000 cattle. It is operated by the DOC, just like two (very, very basic) campsites along the way. Another 80 km to Hanmer Springs. That makes 180 km of country roads, which should take a comfortable three hours. But... after 15 km, the asphalt ends, and the road becomes a gravel road. Things could get tricky; I carefully check the spare tire and tools (kick the spare tire once, it's there and has air—good. Tools were under the bed, they should still be there—done). So off I go onto the track....

The vineyards give way to grass and bushes, the narrow road winds through the valley, always alongside the river. Three enduros pass me, and twice a timber truck comes towards me. The swirling dust cloud reveals them early, so I can always make way in time. The route stretches out at times, but at 20, a maximum of 30 – 40 km/h, progress is slow. On inclines, the engine warms up due to lack of airflow, so I pull heat back with the heater. Radio and phone have long lost reception, but Pink Floyd from the USB stick always fits. Then Molesworth Farm comes into view, and here is also the first campsite. The entire farm is cordoned off for visitors; 90 people live and work here, even with their own airfield. But it's only 2:30 PM; there should still be time, so onward. Crossing the Ward Pass at 1150 m, I continue into a vast plateau that is really boring to pass through. Cattle, cattle, and cattle, plus stones on the track. After 40 km, a small bridge, in the past sheep herds had to be driven across the river here, with two animals side by side it took up to 20 hours. Ten minutes later, I reach the next campsite, managed by an elderly couple for the DOC. I am greeted kindly and can choose my spot. The area is really large, and I'm the only guest. There's a basic toilet, a tap, and a bench—I choose the spot by the bench. After dinner, I notice the left front tire; it really has very little air. Ten minutes later, it’s clear—a flat tire. So I take out all the tools, disassemble the wheel, loosen the spare tire, and try to pull it out... it won’t budge, too close to the ground. Remount the front wheel, lift the rear wheel, pull out the spare tire, set it down, unscrew the front wheel again... why do it simply when it can be complicated? At least the spare tire has enough air, all tools are complete, and even the five wheel bolts for the steel rim are ready to hand. Everything was prepared in case of emergencies for my favorite daughter. Two beers later, everything is done; tomorrow I can tackle the rest of the track. Given how secluded this spot is, I should be able to see a wonderful starry sky. Unfortunately, I initially have a very bright full moon, later it becomes overcast... no stars.