7 Days Singapore - Part 1

Singapore welcomed us with warm, humid weather. On the day we arrived, we went for a long walk and admired the architecture of the skyscrapers—accompanied by the ever-present, intense smell of durian.

After a quick stop at the Decathlon in a mall (I’m now the proud owner of a pair of hiking sandals), a sudden and very violent thunderstorm broke out, and the rain poured down on us in torrents. We arrived at the hotel completely soaked and had a hard time hanging our clothes up to dry in our small room.

Rents in Singapore are very high, which is why about three-quarters of the residents live in government-subsidized housing. So finding affordable lodging for the week wasn’t exactly easy. After weeks of enjoying bungalows, we were a bit disappointed by our small hotel room, which, unfortunately, didn’t even have a window. So we spent most of the week outdoors.

On the first day, we strolled along Orchard Road - a shopping street lined with extravagant stores. With a smoothie in hand and the new sandals on my feet, we relaxed and watched the people passing by. Many people in Singapore wear flip-flops or hiking sandals, but a striking number of them seem to have shoes that don’t fit: too big, too small - quite a few people are limping. According to statistics, 68% of people wear ill-fitting shoes - partly because European sizes don’t fit well, partly for style reasons, and partly because cheaper shoes simply don’t fit as well.

Yet the government actually invests heavily in the health of its citizens: by greening public spaces and buildings, reducing car traffic in favor of public transit, offering vouchers for gyms and classes, and providing monetary incentives through a fitness app. Of course, this is somewhat undermined by ill-fitting shoes. Fashion over health - though it’s probably less about vanity than about saving money, since the cost of living is high and salaries don’t always keep pace. While tax rates are low, about ten percent of one’s salary is automatically deposited each month into an account set aside for medical expenses. Most of the rest of the salary is eaten up by rent and groceries. Even water is quite expensive, at 1.60 to 3.60 SGD per liter.

The cheapest place to eat is still at a hawker center, which are also heavily subsidized by the government, are scattered throughout the city, and are usually covered areas with many food stalls and a large seating area. Here you’ll find dishes from all over Asia, mostly Chinese and Indian, which reflects the demographic makeup: 75% of the local population is of Chinese descent. Many stalls are Michelin-recommended or have even received Michelin stars.

Among other places, we returned to the Clocktower Hawker Center, where we’d eaten with friends seven years ago - back then on our way to Indonesia. This time, we had kopi (strong coffee with condensed milk) and Indian curry.

We had also visited the Tanglin Botanical Gardens seven years ago, and this time we walked every path in detail. Admission is free, as it is at most parks in Singapore. Only certain areas or attractions sometimes charge an entrance fee, such as the orchid garden at the botanical gardens (15 SGD).

There are beautifully landscaped gardens with an impressive variety of plants, and the wildlife clearly feels right at home here: We saw a total of seven monitor lizards, as well as squirrels, dragonflies, butterflies, and even hanging bird nests with chicks.

After a full day - by the end of the week we had walked nearly 130 km - we were able to take a relaxing bus ride back to the hotel. The public transit system is impressive: You don’t need an app to buy tickets; instead, you simply hold your credit card or phone (wallet) up to the terminal when boarding and exiting. The trips are then tallied throughout the day and billed overnight. Despite many long trips, our daily bill never exceeded 5 €.