Still Yerevan...

On Monday, November 26, 2018, in the afternoon, Michel and I are going to the Iranian Embassy. Unfortunately, we both receive bad news. I am denied a visa without giving any reasons, even after asking. Instead, I am given a business card for a tourist agency. They claim that with their help, I can obtain my papers for Iran. Only upon persistent inquiry, I am informed that an invitation from an Iranian might also help. It all feels a bit like corruption. Someone at the embassy is probably getting a cut. So Michel and I, both a bit disappointed, make our way back to the hostel.

Tuesday brings no good news either. At the veterinarian, I am told that I need to take another blood sample of Rango to the Ministry of Health of Armenia. Suspected leishmaniasis. I can expect the results at the earliest on Thursday afternoon.

During the next few days, I try to arrange an invitation to Iran, work on my travel articles for Grandma and Grandpa, and let Nare show me around Yerevan. Among other things, we visit a museum of modern art under the arcades in the city center and the district of Kond. Some original city structure has survived there. The small alleys have charm but have more of a village character. In terms of the old town, Yerevan doesn't have much to offer. In addition to new things to see, there are also culinary discoveries to be made. Besides having the opportunity to try international dishes at the hostel, I am invited by the Vardanyan siblings (Nare and her brother Narek) to eat chash at Genatsvale. The unsalted meat broth (made from cooked cow feet) is eaten with a garlic dip, some salt, and plenty of flatbread. It is served with pickled vegetables and the occasional obligatory vodka. It's edible...

Since I haven't received any news from the laboratory on Thursday, November 29, I try to call them on Friday, without success. So I go through the veterinarian. Nare finds out from him that the test result is negative and I should pick up the result at the laboratory and come back to the clinic on Monday. Unfortunately, after the phone call, Nare is not completely sure whether Rango has the parasites or not. Three more days of uncertainty.

On Monday morning, December 3, 2018, I make my way back to the district of Awan. In the Ministry of Health, I receive the happy news that Rango's blood is free of parasites. At the vet, I am then offered further expensive tests. I communicate that I would like to get a second opinion before that, as the skin problem has also improved significantly. Suddenly, in the following days, I am told that I need to take antibiotics in pill form and a moment later, in the form of injections. I am advised to come back to the clinic for that. It all seems a bit dubious to me. So I have the results of the first tests sent to me by email and decide that if there is no further improvement, I will consult another vet.

In the past few days, I have unfortunately not been able to obtain an invitation for the Islamic Republic of Iran, and something inside me is reluctant to go through a tourism agency. So I have contacted Harut's family again. Maybe with my help, they can prepare the house and property for tourists to generate a small additional income over the summer. However, it is necessary to first clarify the conditions on-site a bit more.

Therefore, I plan to return to the village of Tsamakaberd on Thursday, December 6, 2018. Until then, I am enjoying my time at the hostel and with Nare. Among other things, we spend Tuesday evening at ILik (a small artist café) where Stepan Sharkayan (a famous Armenian jazz musician) is practicing on the piano at the same time. What a coincidence!