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Escape to Zakopane

Cyhoeddwyd: 12.06.2018

On Sunday (June 10, 2018), I slowly wake up around eight as one of the last ones in the dormitory. Breakfast is served for me in the communal kitchen. Rango is still dozing, yesterday's stage has taken its toll. I chat with some other guests and feel no rush to leave. After packing our stuff, I find a spot in front of the hut and enjoy the sun and the panoramic view of the high mountains. Since Rango is illegally in the national park, I have decided to leave it soon and not seek further overnight stays in the mountains. The past two days have been exhausting enough, so it's not inconvenient for me. Around half past ten, we finally hit the trail. The direct way out of the national park leads several kilometers along a paved supply road to the Hotel am Morskie Oko. That's why I decided to take a small detour via Przedni Staw Polski. The mountain lake is about 2 km northeast of Morskie Oko and can be reached in about 2 hours according to the signs. The hiking trail leads us through a picturesque mountain landscape again. After about an hour, we have overcome 300 meters in altitude and take a break in the sun for a while. Before we descend to the targeted mountain lake, we have to tackle more altitude. We reach the hut at Przedni Staw Polski at around 1:00 pm and, also because of the approaching precipitation, settle down for a while at an altitude of 1670 m. Until quarter past two, we have managed the descent along the Roztoka (a stream) to the Wyżni Wodogrzmot (a waterfall). That's when it happens, we are confronted by a park ranger (flanked by several police officers). Fortunately, the guys are already dealing with some Ukrainians and I escape with a verbal warning from the chief ranger of the national park. Another 4 km along the lower part of the supply road from the morning have to be walked to reach a bus connection to Zakopane. At half past three, we are sitting in the bus to Zakopane at Palenica Białczańska, where we arrive at the bus station 45 minutes later. The whole afternoon has already been characterized by light precipitation, which has turned into heavy rain during the bus ride. So I retreat to a dry place at the train station and search for cheap hostels that would accommodate Rango and me. The planned stay at a campsite seems rather pointless at the moment. I find the Top Hostel directly in the center of Zakopane and can check in around six. Apart from a warm shower and some dinner, not much else happens.

The next morning (Monday, June 11), I have breakfast around nine, then I extend my stay for another night and set off with Rango to explore the city. Zakopane seems somehow kitschy with its many wooden houses with pointed roofs. The place is entirely focused on tourism and currently quite crowded. On the way, I provide Rango with a load of fresh meat, which he has earned in the past few days. At the train station, I inquire about the possible onward journey, which is coming sooner than expected. Back at the hostel, it turns out that there is suddenly a problem with Rango. The receptionist had moved me from a four-bed to a six-bed room in the morning because there was nothing else available. According to the house rules, dogs are no longer allowed there for inexplicable reasons! The good man still tries to find alternative accommodation options in the city - for now without success. So I decide to resolve the tricky situation for him by checking out and setting off on the same afternoon. I want to take the opportunity to visit Auschwitz and the memorial site there. So I am back at the train station shortly after four and am sitting on the train to Krakow at a quarter to six. I have just under 2 hours to change trains in Krakow, which I use to stroll through the evening Krakow. Shortly before midnight, I finally arrive in Oświęcim and find a quiet place in the train station building.

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