Sicily - Part 2: Catania and Palermo

Catania is not a city that I would describe as pretty. There are plenty of palaces and churches, but most of them look run-down and neglected. During my 6-hour stay, I visit the most important buildings, spend time in some squares, and watch children's gymnastics performances on Via Etnea, one of the main thoroughfares in the center, as part of a charity run. However, the Teatro Bellini, the cathedral, the Ursino Castle, and the church of San Nicolò with the Benedictine monastery next door are still impressive. From Roman times, there are remains of an amphitheater, a thermal bath, and last but not least, the Odeon, but the buildings have been partially damaged, so it takes a lot of imagination to envision the former structure.

On the other hand, I really like Palermo. Although poverty and hardship are noticeable in some areas, the city feels overall more well-maintained and less hectic than Catania. There are some beautiful squares and idyllic streets that invite you to stroll, and Palermo also boasts a few buildings that impress me.

First, I set my sights on the Teatro Massimo, the third largest theater in Europe - not in terms of capacity, but in terms of its overall construction. It is a direct hit: the building is impressive and promises a beautiful hall, which I of course visit as part of a guided tour. When I arrive in the large theater hall, I still have time to take a few pictures before the lights in the auditorium are turned off due to a rehearsal for "The Marriage of Figaro". Our tour guide's explanations of the seating areas and the ceiling of the room take place in complete darkness. But no one complains. After that, I go to the cathedral of the city, which blows me away. It is so large that it occupies the entire square, and I struggle to step back far enough to capture the entire building in one picture. I also climb to the roof of the cathedral, which offers a great view of the center.

After these two highlights, I pass by so many beautiful churches, fountains, and impressive palaces that I eventually give up trying to remember their names.

Finally, there are two things left that my B&B host recommended to me: I have to visit the church without a roof near Piazza Marina and go to the beach in Mondello with its white sand and turquoise water. I'm happy to do that.

First, finding the church requires a large-scale search. No one I ask on Piazza Marina has ever heard of a church without a roof, and some look at me as if I asked for directions to the moon. This fuels my ambition to find the church. I walk around the square multiple times, discover a dozen churches - but why does each one have a roof? On the other hand, I see many dilapidated houses that are missing roofs, and I am already inclined to photograph one of these and pass it off as a church. My feet hurt and I want to go to the white beach. But then: a friendly young man knows the way to the church. It is supposed to be directly opposite his restaurant, and I have to promise to visit him after the visit. At this moment, I would promise anything for the way to the church without a roof, even though I already know that the white beach will definitely get in the way. And I actually find the church - and it's quite nice. Yes, it doesn't have a roof, but unfortunately, it doesn't have the atmosphere of abandoned places that I had hoped for. Too bad, but at least now I know that the church is called S. Maria dello Spasimo (by the way, dello Spasimo means the Tormented One - suddenly I feel my feet throbbing), dates back to the 16th century, and never had a roof.

But now it's off to the white beach of Mondello at a fast pace. The bus ride there takes just under half an hour, and during the journey, I realize that, once again, I have chosen a Sunday for my beach visit (just like in Athens). The beach is accordingly crowded, the streets are congested, and there is no proper bathing weather. But I don't care, I need a nice ending to my 3.5-week trip, so I stroll along the water and try to store the sea air in secret chambers of my lungs, from which I can retrieve it at any time. The sun sets, I take the crowded bus back to Palermo, and make myself comfortable in my beautiful accommodation with a terrace.

Yes, it was a wonderful trip with many great impressions, new experiences, and long walks in the fresh air, a trip that has brought me to places that I have forever cherished in my heart, but it was also a trip that demanded two things from me: patience when taking pictures and endurance in my feet during the daily 12-hour walks. And now I'm looking forward to seeing my friends, eating whole grain bread, and of course, my ballet training... :-)