Quer'lava'feldein to Hilo

When we wake up today, we hear very unusual sounds: raindrops beating down on our terrace and the sky adorned with dense clouds. Somehow it is immediately clear to both of us, today we are going to Hilo, the capital of Big Island, on the opposite side of the island, about 1.5 hours by car (120 km) away.

So we pack everything up and start heading east this time. The drive takes us across the island and is already unique. It leads through pure lava landscape, past Mauna Kea, the highest mountain on Earth (10,203 m high). What appears particularly spectacular to us is that a large part of the lava is again covered in lush greenery, so it seems to be a good soil after all. And here, there is no sign of rain anywhere, the sun is shining at its best!

Upon arrival in Hilo, we first visit a few stores and then quickly leave the city to drive to the so-called Kapoho Tide Pools, 40 km away, which were once the most popular snorkeling destination on the east coast before the volcanic eruption in May 2018. But now, Kapoho Beach is also known as the youngest beach in the world, because the massive lava flows destroyed the entire snorkeling paradise along with a complete town in the spring. We want to see the extent of the destruction firsthand, but when we are close to the destination, we enter a restricted area and are not allowed to continue - too dangerous. Although it is a pity, it is understandable, as that was one of the reasons for our trip to the east coast. However, we decide not to return early and head back to Hilo.

Our first destination in Hilo is the Big Island Candy Company, known for its unique 'sweet world' (cookies, chocolates, shortbread, etc.), where the latter are said to be prepared in front of visitors, which is true. We are already spoiled with delicious samples at the entrance and there is also plenty to try in the shop. But everything is so delicious and it's hard to decide what souvenir to buy. Finally, we take the Pinapple Short Bread - it is delicious.

We continue to the Hilo waterfront, where we browse through the shops a bit and a nice saleswoman recommends a beautiful beach, 'Richardson Ocean Front', when we ask. So that is where our journey takes us.

And we are amazed. Already on the way there, we see all the small coves around Hilo, and the so-called tide pools (shallow coastal depressions) are particularly striking, of which there are many. And Richardson Bay is really beautiful, and unexpectedly perfect for snorkeling. We have never seen such a variety of coral before, and a few new species of fish also come into view. We spend quite a while there and are impressed that Hilo (which we had actually classified more as a simple industrial town) can be so pretty.

This video gives a small impression: https://vimeo.com/292456170

And even the return journey, which was still ahead of us, was simply enchanting. We set off just before sunset and practically experience it throughout the entire journey back. At first, the road leads through thick fog, then a glowing purple-orange appears in front of us, which is reminiscent of a volcanic eruption. Dense clouds make the spectacle appear as if we were sitting in an airplane, and eventually the horizon burns in lava red. Suddenly, dense fog fields again, everything appears surreal, before the grand finale is offered. It is simply indescribable and even the images only give a vague idea of what we experienced!

Contrary to our prejudices against Hilo, we had an unforgettable day, you just have to stroll through the world with an open mind - otherwise you will overlook the most beautiful sides of it!