12-16 May 2019 # Fiji

Our four-day interlude in Fiji is more or less a result of a flight rescheduling by the New Caledonian airline Aircalin. Originally, we had planned to spend only one night in Nadi and then fly to Vanuatu with a stopover in Wallis & Futuna via Noumea/New Caledonia. However, Aircalin had a different plan and rescheduled one of the connecting flights for a whole two days, forcing us to completely change our plans. Our attempt to contact the airline to get everything back on track turned out to be quite an adventure and could almost be a book of its own.

But as they say, every cloud has a silver lining, and we spend four wonderfully relaxed days on Viti Levu, the main island of Fiji. The flight from Apia is as relaxed as expected thanks to Bula Bid and could have lasted a few more hours. The first drinks arrive shortly after we take our seats. After an excellent meal, it doesn't take long for us to land at Nadi International Airport just before 6:00 PM. The immigration formalities, including buying a SIM card and exchanging money at the nearest counter, take less than 30 minutes, and then we are already in the pick-up area. After politely saying "Bula" at the information desk, we are shown where we should wait for our transfer. Everything seems to be well organized, but we wait in vain for a while. The driver of another resort approaches us and makes a phone call when he hears where we want to go. A few minutes later, our taxi arrives. Although we are not on his list, it doesn't seem to bother him.

Twenty minutes later, we check in at the 'Tropic of Capricorn'. It is located just outside Nadi in Wailoaloa, right on a stretch of beach with several small hostels, bars, and restaurants. A real backpacker's paradise, and the atmosphere is accordingly relaxed. The Ramada hotel in between stands out a bit, but it doesn't bother us. In the 'Tropic', they have dorms with multiple beds for those on a tight budget, as well as regular double rooms with private bathrooms and balconies facing the sea. We opt for the latter. The room is not very big, but it is clean and free from any creepy crawlies. Still full from the inflight meal, we just have a liquid dinner on the first evening. The cool Fiji Bitter is delicious and brings back memories of our first stay in Fiji two and a half years ago. A beautiful sunset adds to the feeling that we immediately feel at home here.

The next morning, after breakfast, we go to 'Bamboo Travellers' to treat ourselves to a decent coffee. Unfortunately, we only have the instant coffee substitute, which becomes quite boring after a while. We don't really have a plan for what to do with our time, so we are glad when a local approaches us. We chat with Melli for a while, and one thing immediately stands out compared to the Samoans. They were also extremely friendly, but much less accessible. Here, people constantly approach you and engage in conversation. Very likeable.

We decide to explore Nadi a bit. Apart from the airport terminals, we didn't see much of the surroundings back then. Melli advises us to take the bus instead of a taxi to the city center. It is not only much cheaper but also more fun to mingle with the locals. The bus stop is right across the street, so we do as advised. For 5 FJD (2 €), we buy a plastic card that allows us to travel to and from the city center twice. It takes a while for the driver to finish his snack and start the engine. In the meantime, we have already met Joe and Sue, two locals who are curious about us. The bus has a rope on both sides of the window from the front to the back row, which is connected to a bicycle bell in the front. To get off, you pull the rope strongly once, and if the driver is not deaf, he stops at the next stop. The same principle as at home, just simpler.

Joe and Sue also want to go to the city center, so we get off the bus together with them. They show us where we should wait for the bus back and what needs to be written on it. Then we say goodbye. The city center, or Newtown, consists mainly of a shopping street, a Hindu temple, and markets for handicrafts and food. We stroll through the shops for a while and buy a few small things. In the large market hall, we admire the huge quantities of kava roots, among other things. Of course, that's where the raw material for the national drink comes from. For us, it's just a freshly squeezed orange juice for now. When it starts raining, we take refuge in a mall and have something to eat before heading back. The bus stop is conveniently located across the street, and after a few long minutes of waiting, the bus to Wailoaloa finally arrives. However, it is already quite full, and we are standing uncomfortably in the aisle. After we briefly leave the bus at the next stop to let someone off, I no longer feel like standing hunched over, so I simply sit on the step of the open door. It is much more comfortable and makes a few youthful backpackers grin. However, I have to hold on tight when the bus unexpectedly leaves the road and drives on a sandy path. I didn't notice that on the way there.

In the evening, we go back to 'Bamboo', where the food selection is a bit more extensive than at the 'Tropic'. When we come back to enjoy a nightcap and wind down the day, Junior and Lucy invite us to drink kava with them. They have already prepared a large pot and are waiting for company. Kava circles are a tradition here and are held almost every day in one of the hostels. Junior works at the 'Tropic' like half of his family and is a pretty funny guy. So we don't hesitate for long and take a seat. Later, a Swiss and a French couple join us, as well as a few local guys. It becomes a long evening. At some point, I fetch my ukulele from the room after Junior has played a few songs on the guitar. We try to play something together, but in the end, I give up and let him have the ukulele. I'm a bit jealous when I see how skillfully he handles it. There is still a lot for me to do.

Every now and then, we give the signal 'Taki' or 'Talo', which means one more kava, please. Emptying one bowl (coconut shell) after another, accompanied by traditional Bula calls and applause. By now, we are the only Europeans in the group, but Rocco has joined us. He was born in Fiji but has been living in England for a few years. He is on a sort of home vacation with his British wife and their child. Rocco is a born entertainer and entertains the whole group with his relaxed way. When we're not singing or listening to a folk song, we can't stop laughing. Well after midnight, the last batch of kava, which Junior kept brewing, is consumed, and the group starts slowly dispersing. I must have drunk at least a liter of the brew, which looks and tastes like dishwater because I always ordered a full bowl. But I don't feel any effect as prophesied. Kava is supposed to make you sleepy, well, not for me.

The night is accordingly short, and we spend the next day lazing around. In the evening, entertainment is on the agenda. It consists of a few traditional dance performances, which are nice to watch. We skip the kava session that follows and go to bed early instead.

The next day, we were supposed to go to a waterfall with Rocco and his family. However, his little one throws a spanner in the works as he is feeling a bit unwell in the morning. We also don't feel like driving around on our own. That's alright, it'll just be another lazy day then. Well, not entirely. We decide to do something for our ukulele playing and settle down in a quiet place. We're not alone for long. Kali, whom we already know from the kava circle, joins us with his guitar. Until the afternoon, we play all sorts of things, sometimes alternating, sometimes together. Maike is more skilled than I am and plays a few German songs. Although I try to learn from Kali, practicing doesn't seem to work out.

Junior, who has the day off, comes by in the evening especially to take us to the kava circle at 'Bamboo'. Of course, we go with him. However, it is already quite crowded. Nevertheless, we sit down. Junior, Kali, and one of the local guys play a few nice tunes on two guitars and a three-stringed (!) ukulele. However, the predominantly young audience largely ignores it. Most of them are probably just eager to have their first kava and are otherwise occupied with themselves or their smartphones. Kali does his best to get the group going, but the spark just doesn't seem to jump. So we're quite relieved when Junior says he has seen enough and we leave the circle with him.

Back at the guesthouse, we receive the message that our flight to Vanuatu tomorrow will not leave at 2:25 PM as planned, but at 6:25 PM instead. That's a bit of a nuisance because we could have gone to the airport right after checking out. Now we have to kill a lot of time. Well, we'll find something to do. At least we won again at Bula Bid and get to fly business class again. Hopefully, it will work out for a long-haul flight sometime. :-)