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Chapter 4, Mexico Part 1: Natural Wonders, Relaxation, and an Expensive Mistake

Cyhoeddwyd: 03.03.2022

I spend my first few days of the trip in the Mexican states of Yucatan and Quintana Roo. Quintana Roo is known for its party tourism. The Americans party here vigorously during their spring break. However, I am less interested in that and so I only stay on the island of Cozumel for a few days to go snorkeling.

The first sign of violence? Bullet holes in the windshield and a flat tire. Valladolid is a charming Mexican colonial-style town that is popular among backpackers due to its proximity to various cenotes. And that's exactly why I'm here! The next day, I take a closer look at the situation and it quickly becomes clear that they couldn't have been bullets. False alarm. Phew, I thought otherwise!

Just off the coast, the water drops steeply 3 to 4 meters after a few meters. Many fish are already frolicking around the small underwater cliff, creating a real snorkeling experience within seconds!

Video of snorkeling: Coming soon!

Unfortunately, I underestimate the sun's rays and end up with a nasty sunburn. Ouch...

Since the weather is going to change in the next few days and the sea is expected to be rough, making snorkeling impossible, I decide to leave Cozumel early and head towards Valladolid.

Valladolid is a charming Mexican colonial-style town that is popular among backpackers due to its proximity to various cenotes. And that's exactly why I'm here!

The central market square of Valladolid.
A street with historical buildings from the last years of the Spanish colonial era!
The front doors and windows are often several hundred years old.

By the way, cenotes are breathtaking naturally formed caves or sinkholes, where the groundwater has hollowed out limestone and often caused it to collapse. The water in the cenotes usually reaches a depth of at least 15m, but rarely 100m.

I rent a bike for about 4 euros a day and start riding.

After about 30 minutes of riding, I reach the first cenote. However, I don't feel completely comfortable on the ride. The path leads me out of the city. The streets become emptier and the places I pass by look quite dubious. However, the lady at the reception in the hostel assured me that the region is safe and I shouldn't worry.

The view into the Samaal cenote dispels my thoughts and leaves me amazed. Wonderful!

Photo from Google...
Photo from Google...

And if you want to swim, you can also swim here!

Video: Coming soon!

Shortly afterwards, I continue by bike towards the Xkeken and Dzitnup cenotes. Both cenotes are only 200 meters apart, so visiting both natural wonders at the same time is a good idea. However, the roads there are even more deserted than before and lead me through the jungle. There are warning signs for jaguars at several sections.

Example image from Google!

However, this probably applies more to motorists who should be prepared for wildlife crossing the road. However, I still don't fully understand that later. Anyway, I stop halfway and treat myself to a coconut at a stand. The friendly man who has already lost a finger or two while preparing coconuts with a machete offers me a seat and serves me the coconut. I linger for a few minutes and enjoy the moment. Magnificent!

On the way, there is another coconut for 1 €.

Back on the bike, I reach the two cenotes shortly afterwards and am amazed again. 

Here too, I take a short dip in the water. Since I have been on the road since early morning, the cenotes are still quite empty and only a few people are swimming in and around the water. 

After that, the successful trip comes to an end around noon. I hop back on the bike and ride back. 

In the evening, I enjoy the culinary offerings of the city in one of the dreamy restaurants. It's a good place to relax!

Two days later, I leave Valladolid and continue towards Bacalar. A place that used to serve as a shelter for pirates and now invites you to relax. Bacalar is particularly special as a place to relax because it is located on a large lagoon filled with crystal clear water that is consistently less than 1 meter deep. There are also cenotes within the lagoon itself, so it is possible to suddenly encounter a 100m deep abyss after a few meters of relaxed wading through the water. 


Bacalar is also the place where the realization came to me 2 years ago in a hammock that I had to pause my world trip after 2 weeks due to Corona. A long break, as I later found out. So my wish was to lie in that exact hammock and press the symbolic play button.


The view from the bed to the lagoon! A great way to wake up to the sun!

However, the next day comes the bitter realization that will significantly affect my travel itinerary in the first few weeks. My passport is only valid for another 12 months. Isn't that enough? No! Since many countries require a minimum validity period of 6 months upon entry, I can effectively only travel for 6 months. The time in Bacalar now becomes a travel nightmare. I spend the entire time searching for solutions. The solutions range from returning to Germany, applying for a passport at a German embassy, to doing nothing and hoping that the other countries won't pay so much attention to the validity of the passport upon entry. After days of contemplation and planning, I decide to apply for a new passport at a German embassy, the German embassy in Guatemala City. Since it takes at least 3 weeks to issue the passport and I have to apply for it in person, and I want to meet my girlfriend in Colombia in 6 weeks, I have to end my journey through Mexico in the next few days and cross over to Guatemala. What a frustrating and expensive mistake. Apparently, I didn't take the preparation for my 2nd attempt at a world trip as seriously, a real beginner's mistake!

As beautiful as Bacalar is, it is causing me trouble for the second time! First, the realization that my trip had to end after 2 weeks 2 years ago, and now this stupid passport story...




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