After exciting days in Beijing, our impressive train tour from Beijing to Tibet via Xian and eight exciting days in the secluded Himalayan country, our tour continued to Nepal in the fall of 2015. We flew with China Southern and waited in vain for the champagne.... for a flight price of €560 for 1 hour of pleasure, a little sparkling water would have been appropriate! Unfortunately, there was only bad food and an aisle seat. Nevertheless, I was lucky and could enjoy the view of the 8000ers.
Over the Himalayas, Everest on the rightThe landing was tough, the plane hit hard and braked so sharply that I briefly had the feeling that we would land in the grass. We had ourselves driven to the hotel and immediately noticed the differences between Tibet and Nepal. The earthquake damage was obvious, Nepal is much poorer than neighboring China or India. Our guesthouse was located in Thamel and I was pleased to recognize a lot. It was nice to be back in this lively city. We lugged our clothes to the laundry and went shopping for money :-) With the first rupees in our pocket, we headed for the first Everest beer
Earthquake damageMoney is the only thing that can help the Nepalese, only tourists who come to the country with hard dollars/euros are the saving hand in the fight against hunger. The Nepalese government is powerless because there is no money. Nepal is ranked third-poorest country in the Wirtschaftsindex. Nepal is a country caught between two major powers, China and India, who would love to take it over, as there is a lot of potential in the Himalayan state. Taking all these factors into account and being aware of what it means for such a small state to be a pawn, it was impressive to see what the Nepalis have achieved in the short time since the earthquakes. We did not yet notice the petrol embargo (the Indians are pissed off because of the new constitution) that evening. Our way to Durbar Square (the historical heart of Kathmandu) led past a Buddhist stupa, the little brother of the Swayambunath complex
Little SwayambunathBuddhist stupaLittle SwayambunathThis facility was built for all believers who can no longer make it to Swayambunath as the facility is located on a hill in KTM. On the way, we noticed a great unrest in the city, we heard drums and slowly but surely became aware of the Indra Jaatra week/celebrations for the living goddess Kumari. Street festival in honor of KumariWomen power or Amusement in Nepali
Street festivalThe celebrations start with street festivals and end in the large temple complexes of Kathmandu. We had actually managed to be in KTM during this week? Slowly but surely, we realized how special this week is, wow... we actually had the chance to see the Kumari live. The girl is only allowed to present herself to the people once a year, and we were there! And that completely unplanned, really crazy.
Old TownStreet vendorBut before that happened, Durbar Square had to be inspected for damage.Oh, what fun I had in that square four years ago. I was impressed by the Newari architecture and the vibrant life... Unfortunately, Durbar Square has suffered greatly, the square is divided into safe, unsafe, and at-risk sections. safe, unsafe, at-riskAll the houses that are still standing are supported by pillars, the next tremor will be the ultimate catastropheDurbar Square from aboveHanuman DhokaDestruction everywhereEarthquake damage but life is lived, loved and celebrated. what is still there is supportedthe destroyed National Museum atmosphericValues that will never be repeated, it breaks your heart, even if the human tragedy is so much worse and no house, no monument stands above a lost life.
By the way, the Nepalis are very pragmatic, our hostel owner shook his head stoically and solemnly swore, ' God Shiva destroys and renews... we now have the chance to do it better and build safe houses!'God Shiva- the destroyer and the renewer Given that there were 10,000 deaths, this is a very rational attitude, especially since he also had relatives who were victims. Hindus and Buddhists are well off with their beliefs when it comes to death. sitting and waiting this face has experienced a lotat Hanuman DhokaBut life was still raging on in Durbar Square. People enjoyed the celebrations, sat on the ruins, and waited for the Kumari. Durbar Square 2011Durbar Square 2015waiting for the KumariWe walked across the square and eventually had to fight against the crowds, the festive procession was in full swing. Later that evening, we actually got to see her, the little girl who is worshipped as a living goddess. The Kumari, probably not yet in puberty, because that will be her death blow, out of the palace, into the rough world. Uneducated, with a small pension, and cursed: former Kumaris are not easily married, their husbands tend to die very young! Kumari, the living goddess
Pashupathinath, Boudhanath, Swayambunath
Our first morning destination started with the secret rulers of Pashupathinath - the monkeys. We took a taxi to one of the most important Hindu holy places in Nepal and the world, not just in Kathmandu.
Pashupathinath is not just a temple complex but also a cremation site with adjacent hospices for the terminally ill. Priests and Saddhus are omnipresent. Monkeys run through the complex and steal the offerings.
Interestingly, I saw many Saddhus for the second or third time in my life. Since they wander between countries, I have seen many of these guys in Pashupathinath as well as in Varanasi, Udaipur, and Pushkar.
Ruler or ascet?
Pashupathinath, temple and hospicesBagmati and cremation ghatsCremation ghatsPashupathinathBigger-scale cremation
I do not want to leave out a single photo of a pyre and a ceremony from a distance because this was so untypical. Flowers, canopy, and music - we were told that a wealthy woman was being cremated... the gawkers were everywhere, Pashupathinath was overcrowded due to the Indra Jaatra celebrations
I deliberately refrained from including photos of the cremations in the flowing text. Everyone has to decide for themselves how much or how often they can/should take pictures. In Varanasi/India, photography is prohibited unless you pay hard dollars... something I would never support. In Pashupathinath, you are a silent observer, not as close to the action as in Varanasi, and the Nepalis themselves have all the cameras and smartphones with them and happily take photos when Grandma and Grandpa are cremated... a bizarre situation. Those interested can view the photos above in the collection.Due to the Indra Jaatra week, the place is also visited by many believers, the priests were very busy
Offerings
Boudhanath
I was curious about Boudhanath, in 2011 I had found the place to be complete peace in a hectic city. When you walk around the stupa, 'Om Mani Padme Hum' can be heard from the speakers and you find yourself humming along to THE mantra of Buddhism. Boudha (the short form) is the largest sanctuary of the exiled Tibetans. Women wear traditional Tibetan costumes, making you almost think you are in Lhasa. While the Kathmandu Valley is more Hindu, the mountains and villages are Buddhist.
Unfortunately, the stupa was badly damaged in the earthquake, and sadly, I stared at the remains, and here I would also like to insert photos from 2011 for comparison. Fortunately, life was still buzzing there, the music continued to enchant, and there was a lot of work going on. The exiled Tibetans continue to walk stoically around the stupa, just like on the Barkhor in Lhasa.
When I am back in KTM, I will probably look at the gleaming white stupa again :-)
Boudhanath 2011Boudhanath after the earthquake, Tibetans with their prayer wheels Boudhanath after the earthquakeBoudhanath from above Our last highlight for the first two days of Kathmandu (we returned at the end of our tour) was the complex of Swayambunath
Ascent
also monkeys here Ascent Swayambunath Leisure activityThis facility is located high up, with a magnificent view of the Kathmandu Valley. I had already read in the newspaper that there was also damage on 25.04.2015, so it was not surprising that there were signs warning of collapse
We let the special atmosphere sink in, enjoyed the view 'downward', and noticed with amazement how Buddhism and Hinduism come together - we also saw Saddhus in Swayambunath!
Mani stones and stupa
I personally liked Swayambunath much better in 2015 than in 2011... but maybe that was because of the hectic pace we had to go through to get a little culture in Nepal at all :-) The next day we headed to Chitwan and back to nature!
