Ionian coast
Publicat: 29.09.2022
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September 24th: Pescoluse - Ugento - Gallipoli 45 km
We cycle comfortably northwards on the coastal road, which mostly runs right along the sea. At the beginning, we still pass the sandy beaches of Maldives di Salento. From Torre Palli, it becomes rockier, but there are beautiful sandy beaches in between. Afterwards, dunes, rocks, and macchia mix before reaching the sandy beaches of Baia Verde, located south of Gallipoli. On a bicycle path and the coastal road, we reach Gallipoli with an impressive old town on a rock island. After an initial tour, we lie down in the sun on the city beach right next to the old town wall.
September 25th: Gallipoli
We take another day off and visit the beach. Gallipoli, which means beautiful city, offers a beautiful 8 km long sandy beach in a crescent-shaped bay in the south with Baia Verde. We cycle a bit further to Punta della Suina, where small bays and crystal-clear water await us. From there, we have a wonderful view of the old town of Gallipoli. In our accommodation, we had a conversation with Patricia, who cleans and tidies up there. In flawless German, because she was born in Germany. Her parents emigrated to Germany in the 70s because there was no work in Apulia. Patricia was born in Germany, attended kindergarten and first grade of elementary school before her parents decided to return to their homeland. 20 years later, she went to Germany with her husband, also because of the lack of prospects. But her husband found his way in Germany, was often sick, and longed to return to warm Apulia. Patricia stayed another six months until her husband found work. Then she also returned with the two children. The story continues with their children, the daughter works in Genoa, the son as a sailor. The vacation months of July and August are not enough for large parts of the population to earn a permanent livelihood.
September 26th: Gallipoli - Porto Cesareo - San Pietro in Bevagna 55 km
Italy has voted, the post-fascist Giorga Meloni and her Fratelli d'Italia have won the election. Italy is also moving to the right, as Sweden did a few weeks ago. And with it, the ghost of Berlusconi reappears. Not a good day for Europe!
Appropriately, the weather today: The sky hangs over the bay north of Gallipoli, covered in clouds. We quickly leave the city on the coastal road because the wind is blowing from behind. We pass established resorts like Santa Maria al Bagno and Santa Caterina with sandy coves. In between, the coast is mostly rocky, and the sea is rough today. We don't notice the beautiful nature reserve with spectacular coves and cliffs because we are caught in a thunderstorm, the sky opens the floodgates, and we struggle through heavy rain until Sant' Isidoro. The streets have turned into small streams there, and we drive through knee-high water. Even in the five kilometers away Porto Cesaro, the water is still in the streets. We continue north along long sandy beaches, past Punta Prosciutto (what a name) to the hotel in San Pietro Bevagne. In the meantime, it has started raining again, but that doesn't stop us from taking a long walk on the beach.
September 27th: Beach day in San Pietro
There is a beautiful sandy beach directly behind the dunes at the hotel, where we spend the day reading, lying down, and swimming.
September 28th: San Pietro - Taranto 50 km
The road continues along the coast, where there are mostly beautiful sandy beaches. Shortly before Taranto, we leave the coast, and the traffic increases significantly. The history of this important port city goes back to 2600 BC when Taras was a significant Greek-Spartan trading metropolis. This is evidenced by the MATRA, the archaeological museum, which offers fabulous treasures such as statues, vases, mosaic floors, coins, and especially beautiful gold jewelry. The old town located on an island is run-down and neglected, it is embarrassing to see people living (or having to live) in such decaying houses.
We cycle comfortably northwards on the coastal road, which mostly runs right along the sea. At the beginning, we still pass the sandy beaches of Maldives di Salento. From Torre Palli, it becomes rockier, but there are beautiful sandy beaches in between. Afterwards, dunes, rocks, and macchia mix before reaching the sandy beaches of Baia Verde, located south of Gallipoli. On a bicycle path and the coastal road, we reach Gallipoli with an impressive old town on a rock island. After an initial tour, we lie down in the sun on the city beach right next to the old town wall.
September 25th: Gallipoli
We take another day off and visit the beach. Gallipoli, which means beautiful city, offers a beautiful 8 km long sandy beach in a crescent-shaped bay in the south with Baia Verde. We cycle a bit further to Punta della Suina, where small bays and crystal-clear water await us. From there, we have a wonderful view of the old town of Gallipoli. In our accommodation, we had a conversation with Patricia, who cleans and tidies up there. In flawless German, because she was born in Germany. Her parents emigrated to Germany in the 70s because there was no work in Apulia. Patricia was born in Germany, attended kindergarten and first grade of elementary school before her parents decided to return to their homeland. 20 years later, she went to Germany with her husband, also because of the lack of prospects. But her husband found his way in Germany, was often sick, and longed to return to warm Apulia. Patricia stayed another six months until her husband found work. Then she also returned with the two children. The story continues with their children, the daughter works in Genoa, the son as a sailor. The vacation months of July and August are not enough for large parts of the population to earn a permanent livelihood.
September 26th: Gallipoli - Porto Cesareo - San Pietro in Bevagna 55 km
Italy has voted, the post-fascist Giorga Meloni and her Fratelli d'Italia have won the election. Italy is also moving to the right, as Sweden did a few weeks ago. And with it, the ghost of Berlusconi reappears. Not a good day for Europe!
Appropriately, the weather today: The sky hangs over the bay north of Gallipoli, covered in clouds. We quickly leave the city on the coastal road because the wind is blowing from behind. We pass established resorts like Santa Maria al Bagno and Santa Caterina with sandy coves. In between, the coast is mostly rocky, and the sea is rough today. We don't notice the beautiful nature reserve with spectacular coves and cliffs because we are caught in a thunderstorm, the sky opens the floodgates, and we struggle through heavy rain until Sant' Isidoro. The streets have turned into small streams there, and we drive through knee-high water. Even in the five kilometers away Porto Cesaro, the water is still in the streets. We continue north along long sandy beaches, past Punta Prosciutto (what a name) to the hotel in San Pietro Bevagne. In the meantime, it has started raining again, but that doesn't stop us from taking a long walk on the beach.
September 27th: Beach day in San Pietro
There is a beautiful sandy beach directly behind the dunes at the hotel, where we spend the day reading, lying down, and swimming.
September 28th: San Pietro - Taranto 50 km
The road continues along the coast, where there are mostly beautiful sandy beaches. Shortly before Taranto, we leave the coast, and the traffic increases significantly. The history of this important port city goes back to 2600 BC when Taras was a significant Greek-Spartan trading metropolis. This is evidenced by the MATRA, the archaeological museum, which offers fabulous treasures such as statues, vases, mosaic floors, coins, and especially beautiful gold jewelry. The old town located on an island is run-down and neglected, it is embarrassing to see people living (or having to live) in such decaying houses.
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