27.-31.1.2018: Multi-day hike on the Queen Charlotte Track

Day 1: Ship Cove - Endeavour Inlet (15 km, 4 hours 45 minutes including breaks)

The alarm clock rings at 6:30 am, but I am already awake for quite some time due to my early bedtime. Out of consideration for my deep sleeping roommates, I pack my two backpacks in the lounge. Breakfast is free at the hostel, and after a jam toast and a scone, I shoulder both backpacks and make my way to the harbor one kilometer away. After only half of the distance, my t-shirt sticks to my body. Okay, maybe I brought a little too much with me with 7x0.75 liters of bottles, two long-sleeved tops, and rain gear (at least the hairdryer and the second (beach) towel were not really necessary), but you have to be prepared for any weather in New Zealand.

I decide not to take a motion sickness pill on the 75-minute water taxi ride to the starting point of my hike, and luckily the boat is mostly calm in the water.

At Ship Cove, I first read some of the installed information panels, giving the numerous day trippers a head start. I start my walk at 10:45 am and after 500 meters, I already have to take the first fruit break. But soon, the climb is overcome and the remaining route is flat.

After just one day stage, I can dispute the statement that the Archer Track offers more views than the entire Queen Charlotte Track. Although the path mostly runs through the inland, it regularly offers expansive and breathtaking views of the shimmering blue sea.

As fatigue slowly creeps into my bones, I see the sign for the Furneaux Lodge on my left. For 58 NZD, you get a bed in a very small room, no cooking facilities (but an expensive restaurant), and bathrooms of the standard of a mid-range campsite. I have stayed in much more luxurious places for half the price, but it's only for one night. The lady at the reception is surprised that I decline both dinner and a packed lunch, but I have prepared. At least I have the four-bed room all to myself tonight and spread my belongings throughout the whole room accordingly. Around 5:00 pm, I wade into the rocky beach and sit in the shallow water for a few minutes until I have enough of the splashing boats and uncomfortable seabed. I limit sunbathing to 20 minutes and then retreat to the shade.

My knee has held up well today and only starts to hurt slightly upon arrival at the destination. Let's see how it looks tomorrow.

Day 2: Endeavour Inlet - Camp Bay (11.5 km, 4 hours 15 minutes including breaks)

Even though I have a room to myself and still need earplugs because of the cicadas making noise with the sunrise... Since the Furneaux Lodge does not have a kitchen, but only an electric kettle in the four-bed rooms, I have to make my tea directly in the bottle in the morning and watch fascinated as the plastic shrinks by half of its volume upon pouring in the boiling water. Then I brew myself a cocoa for breakfast.

I don't start until 9:45 am, as today's stage is relatively short. Initially, it is cloudy, which makes the walk pleasant, but it clears up after about half of the route, which benefits the view. At a picnic bench, where I absentmindedly look out to sea, a stingray swims by, but by the time I have the camera in my hands, it has dived and can only be seen as a blurry black spot. I barely put away the camera when the next one comes. This time it's better, but not perfectly identifiable in the photo. Now the polarizing filter (camera lens to suppress unwanted reflections) has to show what it can do. So I patiently wait equipped for whatever may come or not come, because unfortunately, I don't have luck for a third time.

A little further, I settle down on a section of the beach to have my lunch, but to my surprise, the chili has not survived the night. I hadn't expected that; it could have lasted at least half a day more. So, I only have a kiwi, carrot, and a handful of nuts. Luckily, I'm not really hungry anyway, but it's a shame nonetheless.

Somewhat exhausted, I reach the seemingly confusing but also quite fancy Punga Cove Resort around 2:00 pm, where I have a single room and a kitchen at my disposal today. I immediately store fruits, vegetables, and chocolate bars in the refrigerator and reluctantly throw away my overflowing Tupperware with chili.

I would love to lie down in bed and sleep now. Instead, I explore the area a bit more and treat myself to a 20-minute sunbath. I gladly decline the expensive food in the restaurant and instead cook a large portion of pasta with bell peppers, zucchini, and tomato sauce. My knee gives me the last warning that I will get away with it if I rest from now on, but unfortunately, I can't comply. Tomorrow's stage is twice as long as today's.

Day 3: Camp Bay - Torea Saddle (23 km, 7 hours 45 minutes including detour and breaks)

New record! I have never walked this far in a day before, and if I had the choice, my daily stages would not exceed 20 km. But between Camp Bay and Torea Saddle, there are only two campsites without any roof over your head. Although I could save the long day and take a water taxi back, which would have been very welcomed by my tired legs, it would cost an additional 49 NZD and ultimately, I want to be able to say that I walked the entire track and not just most of it. The hiking map states that today's stage is 23 km, but I am incredulous when I see the number behind Torea Saddle, namely 24.5 km instead of the obvious 23 km. In addition, there is the detour to Eatwells Lookout, which costs an additional kilometer there and back, and the slight detour to Treetops Backpackers, my accommodation for tonight.

The track initially winds uphill but soon becomes level ground. I start briskly and even catch up with some hikers despite my late departure, but as the kilometers increase, I become slower. Since the group of girls, whom I had overtaken earlier, decides to skip the side trip to Eatwells Lookout after 6 km, I am once again the last in line. But what does it matter.

Within a span of 2 km, I pass a signpost with international distance indications three times; one of them even mentions Berlin.

Even though there are no trees to provide shade from the heat on the open areas, I prefer them not only for the views. I have developed a dislike for the cicadas that inhabit the bushes by the thousands, apparently having poor eyesight, as they regularly collide with my baseball cap, shoulder, and even my ear, and I startle each time. Since their loud chirping accompanies me day in and day out, I try music today for a change, and it actually helps me to make better progress.

On the map, it looks like the track runs quite far away from the sea today, but in reality, there are many points along the way that reward with stunning viewpoints, sometimes even reaching the North Island. From the ridge, you can enjoy the best views over Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sound.

Although the Queen Charlotte Track already has some steep sections, I imagined them to be longer and steeper. The only thing I miss are more frequent distance indicators along the way. It always takes quite a while until you reach another point that is marked on the small map, and even then, it is difficult to estimate the remaining distance. The best indication comes from the wooden posts with decreasing kilometer numbers, but if you are walking leisurely, it takes a while until you come across one again.

I reach Nikau View at 3:00 pm and treat myself to a 5-minute break here, as Torea Saddle does not look as far away on the map anymore, but it is still a distance at 23 km. 45 minutes later, both knees suddenly start to hurt, joining the protest movement of burning soles of the feet and complaining thighs. But knees can be ignored much worse. After a short time, I need a brief pause, sit down on a small rock ledge, and eat a pear. While sitting, it feels like my knees have fallen asleep - they tingle and sting. However, I cannot give them an extended break; they have to endure a bit more. Before I get up, I stow the headphones in my backpack; I don't feel like listening to the unfortunately rather short playlist for a third time. A few steps further, I am surprised to see the relieving sign. Torea Saddle has been reached, and Portage Bay, where my accommodation for tonight is located, is only 700 m away from here. I will have to climb the road up again tomorrow morning, but for now, I am happy to have arrived earlier than expected.

The steep road that branches off from Portage Bay and leads to the accommodations demands everything from me again, but finally, it is done. I am the last one, but I don't mind. Besides me, there are two Danes, a Brit, and a Kiwi as guests, and I definitely bring down the average age. The small backpackers is already full. Unfortunately, it is also one of the worst I have ever stayed in, but it has a (although unreliable) shower, a small kitchen (including an ice pack for my knees), and a bed. That's all I need. For dinner, I have mashed potatoes with peas, carrots, fried onions, and sauce. After dinner, I sit together with one of the Danes until the Brit joins us. In that time, I collect 10 mosquito bites, some of them even through my clothes, and I don't know where to start scratching. Palm and toe tip are really mean. The Brit and the woman are early risers and always start their walk around 5:30 am to avoid the heat. There's no chance you can get me out of bed at this ungodly hour.

Day 4: Torea Saddle - Mistletoe Bay - Anakiwa (20.5 km, 7 hours)

The night in the twin room was not very comfortable. On the one hand, the blankets were very thick, probably lying on the beds in summer and winter alike, and, on the other hand, the window was closed. Unfortunately, my roommate went to bed at 9:00 pm, and when I followed an hour later, I would have had to step onto her bed to open it. So it stayed closed.

Originally, I wanted to leave a little earlier today and at least got up 15 minutes earlier, but in the end, I only started 5 minutes earlier than yesterday. Yesterday it was pleasant at this time, but today it is noticeably warmer when I set off.

After the struggle to walk the 700 m to the Queen Charlotte Track entry point, it is a difficult 30-minute uphill climb to 400 meters above sea level. I take it slowly step by step and then pick up the pace again when the path becomes level. After two good viewpoints, I walk for some time across meadows and through forests without any noteworthy photo moments. Earlier than expected, I pass the sign that points to the Onahau Lookout, which I can skip today, and shortly after, I have completed the 8 km long 4th stage. The route from Portage Bay to Mistletoe Bay is indicated with 4 hours. I set off at 8:45 am, and it is only 11:30 am now. And I thought I was slow. Although I still have energy for the short 500-meter detour to Mistletoe Bay, which could be easily combined with the James Vogel Walkway for a total of two additional kilometers, I decide to keep going. When booking (like many others), I decided to combine the 4th and 5th stages. At 3:30 pm, my luggage will be dropped off at the wharf in Anakiwa, the endpoint of my hike, and I don't want it to lie around there unintentionally for too long. In previous days, it was delivered directly to the hostel, but today I have to pick it up myself.

Especially since I realized that even short breaks can work wonders in addition to musical accompaniment, it's easier to walk. But after halfway, my shoulders start to ache. Something different every day, but at least not my knees, which seem to be speechless because of my unteachability. From Mistletoe Bay, the Queen Charlotte Track mostly runs through the inland, which is less exciting, but I have already seen enough of the Marlborough Sounds anyway. At Davies Bay Campground, you come across beach access again. From here, it's only three kilometers to Anakiwa, where I arrive at 3:45 pm. My backpack is already waiting for me, and 500 meters down the road, I can check into my last accommodation along the Queen Charlotte Track. Theoretically, I could have made it back to Picton by water taxi just in time, but I didn't want to rush and will take it easy and go back in the morning. For dinner, I only have a 5-minute noodle cup. Besides muesli, powdered milk, and a handful of cereal bars, I have used up all my supplies.

Day 5: Anakiwa - Picton (50 minutes drive)

Admittedly, today has very little to do with the Queen Charlotte Track, but since it was a very uneventful day, it would not have provided enough material for a completely new blog entry.

Today, I have to get up quite early again. The water taxi picks me up at 8:50 am, and since packing the backpacks always takes some time and one does not want to arrive at the pier at the last minute, the alarm clock rings shortly before 7:00 am. I should not have finished my walk one day later because today it is very cloudy and windy. From tomorrow, it is supposed to rain and even storm.

The water taxi can only accommodate 6 passengers. Oh dear, the smaller the boat, the more noticeable the waves. The first 20 minutes go smoothly. I am turning into a real old salt! However, this illusion is considerably shaken almost 10 minutes later, with the increasingly rough ride. Fixate a point and take a deep breath works well initially, but after a few wave jumps, a slight discomfort announces itself. At the last intermediate stop, I retrospectively swallow half a tablet, knowing full well that it's actually nonsense because the effect takes 20 minutes to unfold. Hopefully, it works faster this time; the placebo effect will do. When the discomfort turns into nausea, we arrive in Picton 15 minutes earlier than planned. Thank goodness!

First, I go to the hostel from here. I can't check in yet, but I can drop off my things and park my car in the parking lot. At lunchtime, I stroll into town to the Seabreeze Restaurant and order a salad with lamb and mint jelly and a cola. It may be that the 3-day meat abstinence plays a role, but this is the most delicious lamb I have ever had, and the mint also goes well with the salad. Although I urgently need to buy groceries since I have nothing left except noodles, potatoes, and a 5-minute noodle cup, I'm not in the mood. So I return to the hostel, where I first put the entire textile content of my backpack into the washing machine. The strong wind makes hanging it up on the clothesline difficult, but everything dries quickly within a short time.

Next, I reorganize my suitcase and put the hiking shoes and the large backpack back in the trunk. Now I have time to focus on the blog, and apart from a wonderful shower and a quickly prepared dinner, this topic keeps me busy for the rest of the day.