# Day 13 War and Peace

We approach our next destination with mixed emotions. Normandy was the scene of the American-British landing on the coast of Normandy in 1944 to liberate Europe from the rule of the Nazis.

This landing in Normandy on the morning of June 6, 1944 cost so many lives that it sends shivers down your spine to visit these places. I am also unsure how I will feel moving around here.

The so-called landing beaches stretch along the entire coastline behind Caen. The beaches still bear the names of the military operation at that time (Utah Beach, Omaha Beach, Juno Beach...). The most famous section is Omaha Beach, a long sandy beach with light sand. The rugged cliffs reveal a gap into the hinterland here, which obviously seemed suitable for landing.

When we stand there on the beach, the memorials, monuments, and the many visitors weigh heavily on us. You have the images from the movies in your head, in which the landing in Normandy was portrayed and the young soldiers were greeted by bullets and grenades. The enormity of wars becomes clear when you stand on the sand that was the last image for thousands of people in their lives.

A couple in their 50s is dancing on the beach. Maybe their grandfather was one of the soldiers who died here. Maybe at home, the woman was waiting with her young son or daughter for the man who never returned. So the child had to grow up without a father. Assuming that the child was 2 years old in 1944, it would be 80 years old today and possibly the father of one of the two people who were dancing on the beach here. Then they would do it for their grandfather, whom they never got to know.

As a proud grandfather myself, my eyes moisten at this thought.

Never again war - that can only be the warning that comes from such places.

The beach now lies so peacefully and is also used by children for playing. That is soothing, despite all the emotions.

We decide to look for a place to stay nearby and find one just 6 km away on a farm (Ferme de Rouge Fosse). The large farm with livestock farming has created 8 pitches for motorhomes in the rear part, which are even offered with electricity and disposal - for €10 per night.

It is so peaceful and beautiful there that we decide to stay for 2 nights.

On Sunday, we cycle along the coast. A cycle path runs directly along the edge of the cliffs, which is part of the maritime 'Piste du Velo'.

The first destination is a bunker position, Pointe du Hoc, 4 km away. There is a visitor center, memorial plaques, and a circular path along the bunker facilities. The place was an observation post for the German troops and was located on a promontory overlooking the east and west. The cliffs here are about 30 m high and steep. The thought that the troops landed here and had to climb up takes my breath away.

The American soldiers are honored at the memorial plaques for their bravery, valour, and determination to liberate the Western world.

The phrase 'ever forwards' - only forward - particularly affects me. With their eyes open, many men ran to their deaths and paved the way for those who followed.

What a shitty world - never again war.

Afterwards, we clear our heads while cycling. At the other end of Omaha Beach is the American cemetery, which we now head for.

On the way there, there are all sorts of museums, exhibitions, memorials, and monuments to see. They all have the same message - in memory of our brave men who fought for American values and freedom.

The cemetery is located directly above Omaha Beach and is very modernly designed. The visitor center and park with extraordinary botanical plantings create a stylish atmosphere.

The extraordinary large memorial monument in the center of the site is the central location amidst the cemetery. From here, you can see the lined up white crosses, all with names attached, occasionally with a flower arrangement or an American small flag at the foot of the cross. Here, the fallen soldiers are given a name.

When a wreath is placed in the monument and a bell tolls playing the American national anthem, the climax is reached.

We leave the cemetery, which is incidentally American territory, and need to take a breath.

The remnants from the war have accompanied us since entering France. There was always a bunker or a memorial somewhere. Now we are standing, so to speak, at the place with the strongest message, and we have surrendered to it.

But now it's enough.

From now on, we leave the 1944 route and want to focus on the present.

Back at our motorhome on the great pitch, we take another round around the farm, enjoy the cows and calves, and plan tomorrow's next destination.