Hanging out in Val Veny

The hammock was the highlight of the campsite. I could hang out there for hours and enjoy the view of the mountains. But the campsite was also one of the best I have ever stayed at. Not only was the location fantastic, in a larch forest right under the glaciers of Mont Blanc, but also the facilities left nothing to be desired - washing machine, small bar, and a shop with necessary items, as well as a freshly prepared dinner available on order. And I even had a shady, secluded clearing for my tent away from the hustle and bustle. It goes without saying that I stayed here for more than one night.

The next day, I had the opportunity to test out a few trails around Courmayeur. Maybe there was another equally amazing descent like yesterday? So, I pedaled towards Col de Seigne to reach Val Veny and get on the high-level trail that I had already done in the opposite direction as part of the Tour du Mont Blanc. I passed by some beautifully designed picnic areas in the woods. It felt less like the Alps and more like a California national park, with lots of untouched nature. Well, at least until I reached the high-level trail. That's when Mont Blanc truly revealed its grandeur. Riding along the relatively easy path while facing the Mont Blanc was truly magnificent. Although, due to the massive number of hikers, there were often stop-and-go moments.

That was supposed to be just the beginning of the trail that I had chosen down to Courmayeur. According to the reviews, it was challenging but doable. The reality was different. The upper part was blocked due to avalanche structures, and the lower part was extremely steep, narrow, exposed, and definitely only partially rideable for the daring. I had to push my bike for most of it, and whoever classified it as an MTB trail better stay away from me. It was the first major disappointment of my tour. But to console myself, I still had the hammock, where I could relax in the second half of the day.

Starting tomorrow, I will be embarking on the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) to fully explore the western side with Chamonix. Overall, I am a bit skeptical about the tour. Following the hiking path entirely is the original route. But, as with other bikepacking tours, it often means blindly following the hikers - with pushing sections not only uphill but also downhill. It contradicts the idea of bikepacking. Because if I'm pushing, it's only to get to an awesome trail up there. And not just to push it all down again. Therefore, I am following a slightly different route for the tour, which skips the overly masochistic parts of the TMB and instead offers rideable trails. Of course, I also prefer trails in the more challenging difficulty level.