Uñt’ayata: 09.02.2020
My Spanish is good enough now to ask for bus connections and buy a ticket. When foreigners speak slowly in simple words, I understand about half of it. My journey involves three routes, so I had to change buses twice. I only found out about it once I arrived, as this connection was not available on the internet. I could have booked an expensive train ticket, but they were already sold out for today.
So, I traveled to Molina via Santa Cruz and Curico, which is pretty much in the middle of Chile, where Edgardo picked me up. 5km away is his 'Multi-Espacio', an outdoor pool with barbecue areas, chickens, horses, sheep, and a river access point further away. He also has a large workshop where a tiny house is currently being built, and a space for events such as weddings, etc. He calls it rural tourism. Since it was Sunday, the lawn was relatively crowded with guests. He lives on the property and his sister is staying in the neighboring house with her husband and two small children for the holidays. I was greeted with freshly made humitas and a short tour.
Technically, I had today off, but I'm not good at doing nothing. So, I gave Edgardo's kitchen, including the refrigerator, a thorough cleaning because it desperately needed it. My room and the rest of the house are simple but functional.
Today was the start of 'work'. The deal is that I work 4-5 hours a day, 5 days a week, and in return, I am provided with food and accommodation. My main task is not very glamorous: I have to clean the bathrooms and toilets at the pool every day. But that only takes half an hour. I also have to feed the chickens and collect their eggs several times a day (they don't like their coop very much, so it's like Easter every day). In addition, there are several bags full of wool from Edgardo's sheep that need to be cleaned of straw, leaves, and other debris before washing. It's a very slow and meticulous task, but also quite meditative.
So, I worked on my tasks, taking breaks in between, and for lunch, I went over to Edgardo's family. In the evening, Edgardo and I went to the town to go shopping, then I cooked something small and we opened a delicious local wine.
Edgardo actually comes from the construction industry, but he took over this property from his parents a few years ago and wants to realize all kinds of projects there with little money but good business partners. There is even a tennis court here, so he found a young student who will give lessons to children and organize a tournament with a festival next month. He is very business-minded and has many ideas. However, I also notice that he lacks knowledge in some areas and just lets things happen. The animals here (horses, sheep, chickens) live their lives without anyone really taking professional care of them. For example, the chickens have lots of chicks and multiply uncontrollably because they hide their eggs all over the yard. Edgardo himself admits that he is not a farmer, and it takes time to master these things, but I think he needs to be careful not to get overwhelmed with too many projects. So, I can't learn much about animal husbandry, vegetable cultivation, or sustainable living in general.
But it's always easy to say when you've spent your whole life sitting indoors in front of a computer, earning a living. Although that's not entirely true either, for four years I worked behind the counter at the bakery on weekends.
In the morning, I calmly went about my tasks, in the afternoon, I planned the travel route for Patagonia. For lunch, we had another traditional dish, Porotos Granados con Choclo - young, white beans with corn as a stew/soup. Que rico! In the evening, I baked bread, but it didn't rise properly because the temperature display on the gas oven knob was no longer readable, and I think the oven was too cold. After that, I went cycling with Edgardo to watch the sunset, passing by a vineyard and a plum plantation in the neighborhood. It's very peaceful and simple here, and the view of the surrounding hills and a distant volcano is quite idyllic.
Edgardo speaks better English than I speak Spanish, but unfortunately, it's not enough for deep and engaging conversations. When he speaks Spanish slowly and with hand gestures, I can understand some of it, but I couldn't understand his family at all. It's frustrating and makes it difficult for me to speak as well. So, things are not going smoothly right now.
The day was uneventful. I completed my tasks and let my thoughts wander. Nothing noteworthy happened.
However, I did manage to plan our itinerary for Patagonia. Unlike the rest of the trip, I meticulously wrote an Excel list with dates, places, activities, and distances. Ben said, 'So, you're still the same.' I have to say, it was quite satisfying for me to have this plan in the end.
Today, I got another task and got my hands dirty tying up tomatoes. Edgardo and I nailed some wooden slats together, and I tied the drooping tomato stems to this structure. I was also done with my other tasks by lunchtime, so I rode my bike to Molina, which is 6km away (I live completely in the middle of nowhere). But there wasn't much to see there either, everything is very simple and down-to-earth. The big supermarkets are American, and all the other shops are small, colorful, and somewhat exotic.
In the afternoon, I baked a crumble cake with plums that a friend gave us, and I realized something. Wherever I am, I am always the same person. Baking is enjoyable for me anywhere in the world and helps me clear my mind for a while. Because even on this journey, my mind is always filled with intense thoughts.
I still suffer from the sunburn I got in Vina del Mar, and my skin is peeling despite using lots of body lotion. Every year, I make this mistake exactly once, but the lesson doesn't seem to last for 12 months. So, kids, never, and I mean never, go out in the sun without sunscreen.
In the evening, Edgardo wanted to show me a bit of the nightlife in the area, so we drove to Curico. The place was actually very lively, with a big avenue in the middle with markets, stages, and playgrounds, and several plazas with fancy bars. After two delicious Pisco Sours and a nice conversation, we got tired and went home.
We mainly talked about material possessions and the freedom you feel when you can let go of them. Because in reality, we don't 'own' anything in this world, and even in safe Germany, everything we own can be taken away in the next moment. Only when you realize and mentally detach yourself from things can you truly enjoy life. I think.
Unfortunately, there was a slightly uncomfortable moment later in the evening, where I apparently sent the wrong signals with my body language. But Edgardo and I quickly got over it, and everything was back to normal - no harm done. Besides, I'm leaving tomorrow anyway. But even if I were staying, it wouldn't have been a problem.