This cannot go on...

Uñt’ayata: 13.10.2018

Saturday morning (29.09.2018) greets me with sunny and warm weather. I take the opportunity for one last swim in the Aragvi River, as today we're heading back to the mountains. I want to go to Stepantsminda to get as close as possible to the summit of Mount Kazbek, which is over 5000 meters high. The weather forecast for the mountain over the next few days is nine to fifteen degrees below zero, mostly sunny. After packing up our belongings around noon, we drive to Tbilisi-Didube to catch a marshrutka to Kazbegi. When we arrive at the bus station, I leave Rango and the luggage in the shade and start searching for a bus driver willing to take us. Unfortunately, I have no luck that day. After several hours and several attempts, I give up a bit frustrated shortly before six o'clock. It seemed that word had also spread that I was German, and a taxi ride would have been possible for a lot of money. No, thank you. Without much thought, I take all my stuff to the main train station and inquire about train connections towards Baku. I've had enough of Georgia. I could take the night train around half past eight and arrive the next morning. Sounds perfect. The only problem remaining is obtaining a visa by then. The fast option for the Azerbaijani e-visa can be obtained within three hours. So, I might have to board the train without a visa and hope that it arrives before the border. But that's too risky for me. I decide to go back to Mtskheta, where I know a place where I can set up my tent even in the dark. After shopping in the small town, the butcher I've been chatting with in the last few days offers me a stay in his dacha. Why not... When I arrive there, I find out that the shed is quite rundown, small, with no windows (unpleasant with so many mosquitoes near the river) and pretty dirty. I feel much more comfortable in my tent, so I move back there.

On Sunday, the first attempt to apply for a visa online fails due to the required scan of my ID, which is too large for an image file.

On Monday (October 1, 2018), with the help of a city employee, I solve the problem (a scanning app does the trick). However, another obstacle arises with a security procedure for paying by credit card, which cannot be resolved. Unfortunately, not even in the following days.

So on Wednesday, I make my way to the Azerbaijani embassy to obtain the visa through the traditional process. It is not possible in the afternoon, so I have to come back in the morning. In addition, I need a hotel reservation, which turns out to be impossible without credit card payment. So I give my bank the weekend to solve the credit card problem, in hopes of reaching the Caspian Sea in the next few days. Since I have caught a slight cold, the forced break doesn't bother me too much. However, I am still annoyed by the situation. It's time for all barriers to fall! Free passage for free citizens!

Jaysawi