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Tag 37 - Santiago de Compostela nach A Pena
Uñt’ayata: 20.05.2024
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This morning we had breakfast together after we had all stayed in different accommodations or hotels. Afterwards we said goodbye to someone who was very important to my Camino. Ryan is staying in Santiago until tomorrow and will then fly back to the USA. But we will see each other again in Germany in September 2025 at the latest. Thank you for all the time we spent together. I have never walked more often or for longer with anyone. You are a wonderful person.
At 9am the rest of my journey began. Together with Viky, Evi from the Netherlands and Tom, we took a photo of the new group for today's journey.
It takes a good half hour through the city to the outskirts before we reach the mountain range towards the ocean. It is immediately apparent that this further route is much less frequented and that only a few pilgrims can be seen. The paths through nature are also much narrower and the surroundings are unspoilt.
When I reach the first hill, I have one last view of the Cathedral of Santiago.
As already mentioned, there are a lot of elevation gains to be made today. It's mostly uphill, and occasionally downhill, but some of the climbs are really tough. After yesterday's rest day, my legs are fresh and everything goes smoothly for the first few hours.
The surroundings today are mostly forests, with mainly eucalyptus trees, which of course is also noticeable in the unmistakable smell. Very refreshing. Meter by meter, the path continues to climb higher and higher.
A brief rustling at the side of the path catches my attention. I stop for a moment and take a closer look. There is rustling under the leaves again. What then presents itself to me is an incredibly rare sight. A mole. It is trying to bury itself under the leaves, but is in the wrong place to dig itself into the earth. After briefly considering helping it, because it really seemed quite clumsy, I let nature take its course.
In the town of Monte Maceira, which is one of the most beautiful in Spain according to the award, a waterfall, a medieval bridge and many very beautiful houses await me. We continue to Negreira, where we have a late lunch and take a well-deserved break. Because there are so few pilgrims, there are naturally fewer bars and restaurants along the route, which has to be taken into account when planning the food for the long daily stages. Up to this point, the weather has been very good today. Around 18 degrees and slightly cloudy.
After lunch, we have to go through an archway at the edge of town and, as if by magic, it immediately starts pouring down heavily. So we quickly put on our rain gear before we have to make our first decision.
Option 1 takes you along the road for an hour and is a little shorter. Option 2 goes along the river and then through forests until the paths converge again. Of course, the decision is made to take the longer but probably more beautiful route.
So we continue in the rain, but unbelievably beautifully in single file. As if you get less rain if you walk behind someone 🤣Well... Shortly before the end of the part, which is very rough and steep in places, it finally stops raining. It's a real relief to be able to take off some of the clothes again, because it's very warm underneath due to the very strenuous route.
At the end of the forest, we have to go through a clearing covered with meter-high grass before our path merges with the other one again.
Only 5km to the next hostel 🙏 We continue through forests, sometimes very steeply uphill and sometimes very impassable. Impassable means over hill and dale, rock and mud, no paved surface.
Everyone underestimated today a little bit. It will definitely go down in the top 5 of my most strenuous stages.
At 6:30 p.m. I reach the hostel and of course I have to climb a few more steps.
We had dinner together in the hostel. It was delicious and plentiful.
Tomorrow will probably be longer than today, but with a slightly lower elevation gain. Let's see how far I can make it tomorrow, or rather how far my body and desires allow it.
Cost of the day:
Accommodation 17€Breakfast 8€Food along the way 18€Dinner 17€
At 9am the rest of my journey began. Together with Viky, Evi from the Netherlands and Tom, we took a photo of the new group for today's journey.
It takes a good half hour through the city to the outskirts before we reach the mountain range towards the ocean. It is immediately apparent that this further route is much less frequented and that only a few pilgrims can be seen. The paths through nature are also much narrower and the surroundings are unspoilt.
When I reach the first hill, I have one last view of the Cathedral of Santiago.
As already mentioned, there are a lot of elevation gains to be made today. It's mostly uphill, and occasionally downhill, but some of the climbs are really tough. After yesterday's rest day, my legs are fresh and everything goes smoothly for the first few hours.
The surroundings today are mostly forests, with mainly eucalyptus trees, which of course is also noticeable in the unmistakable smell. Very refreshing. Meter by meter, the path continues to climb higher and higher.
A brief rustling at the side of the path catches my attention. I stop for a moment and take a closer look. There is rustling under the leaves again. What then presents itself to me is an incredibly rare sight. A mole. It is trying to bury itself under the leaves, but is in the wrong place to dig itself into the earth. After briefly considering helping it, because it really seemed quite clumsy, I let nature take its course.
In the town of Monte Maceira, which is one of the most beautiful in Spain according to the award, a waterfall, a medieval bridge and many very beautiful houses await me. We continue to Negreira, where we have a late lunch and take a well-deserved break. Because there are so few pilgrims, there are naturally fewer bars and restaurants along the route, which has to be taken into account when planning the food for the long daily stages. Up to this point, the weather has been very good today. Around 18 degrees and slightly cloudy.
After lunch, we have to go through an archway at the edge of town and, as if by magic, it immediately starts pouring down heavily. So we quickly put on our rain gear before we have to make our first decision.
Option 1 takes you along the road for an hour and is a little shorter. Option 2 goes along the river and then through forests until the paths converge again. Of course, the decision is made to take the longer but probably more beautiful route.
So we continue in the rain, but unbelievably beautifully in single file. As if you get less rain if you walk behind someone 🤣Well... Shortly before the end of the part, which is very rough and steep in places, it finally stops raining. It's a real relief to be able to take off some of the clothes again, because it's very warm underneath due to the very strenuous route.
At the end of the forest, we have to go through a clearing covered with meter-high grass before our path merges with the other one again.
Only 5km to the next hostel 🙏 We continue through forests, sometimes very steeply uphill and sometimes very impassable. Impassable means over hill and dale, rock and mud, no paved surface.
Everyone underestimated today a little bit. It will definitely go down in the top 5 of my most strenuous stages.
At 6:30 p.m. I reach the hostel and of course I have to climb a few more steps.
We had dinner together in the hostel. It was delicious and plentiful.
Tomorrow will probably be longer than today, but with a slightly lower elevation gain. Let's see how far I can make it tomorrow, or rather how far my body and desires allow it.
Cost of the day:
Accommodation 17€Breakfast 8€Food along the way 18€Dinner 17€
Yatiyäw qillqatar qillqt’asipxam
Jaysawi (1)
Tita Maru
Un día más objetivo conseguido. Mucho esfuerzo y constancia requiere esté camino, pero lo conseguirás. Cuida mucho ese cuerpo y esas piernas, peregrino, tienen que llegar hasta el final de la tierra. Buen camino
Viajes ukan yatiyawinakapa España markanxa