Stage 57: From Nazilli to Pamukkale

Due to the below freezing temperatures, I was in no rush to leave Nazilli. So, I relaxed in the city and had breakfast before continuing east in the sunshine. This was the first time I had to use my balaclava, and it was a good decision. The climb was hardly noticeable, but the cold headwind slowed me down in the first half. About 20 kilometers before Pamukkale, I left the main road and passed through smaller towns. From a distance, I could already see the tourist attraction that attracts many visitors to Pamukkale every year: the huge travertine terraces formed by the outflow of mineral-rich water from hot springs. Before reaching my actual hotel, another hotel owner tried to poach me, which I found intrusive. He asked about the price I was paying and made me a cheaper offer. It wasn't until I argued that he wouldn't like it if his guests canceled at the last minute and stayed with his neighbors that he relented and left.

I was warmly welcomed at my accommodation. Coffee and tea were complimentary, and the room was great, so I made the right choice.

The next morning, winter finally caught up with me. I woke up in a snowy landscape, and it continued to snow for most of the day. Of course, I didn't want to miss the travertine terraces, even though the entrance announcement stated that shoes were not allowed on the terraces. The terraces must be protected at all costs to maintain their status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This status was threatened in the late 90s when large hotel complexes were built right next to the terraces and a trench was even dug into the landscape. Since then, it has all been dismantled, and the government is visibly committed to preserving the landscape (and tourism).

After a few meters, I encountered another tourist who gave up after 30 meters because it was too cold. Indeed, the first approximately 300 meters in the deep snow were a real challenge! The situation didn't improve when I waded through pools covered in ice. With numb and red feet, I continued through the snow until I reached the first channel with warm spring water! Dipping my feet in initially caused pain until they got used to the sudden change in temperature. For a while, I had the entire complex to myself, which is surely a rare occurrence. It later turned out that the roads to Pamukkale were closed for half the day due to snow, causing tourist buses to stay away. The second reason was surely the shoe prohibition, which deterred some people in these temperatures. I also cursed out loud at times (but no one heard), but in the end, it was an exciting experience and truly something special to be able to admire the deserted terraces!

At the northern exit of the site, there is a small museum with artifacts from Hierapolis, and the ancient ruins can be directly admired right after the terraces. In the middle of the winter landscape, this created a very special atmosphere. As if that wasn't enough, there is a thermal bath right by the ruins, fed by the hot springs and offering a view of the Odeon of Hierapolis. It was another challenge to walk back to the pool in my swimsuit in the open air. But of course, getting out of the pool was even more difficult, I could have stayed there forever!

Since I still had plenty of time afterwards, I took a long walk along the ruins of Hierapolis and then back to Pamukkale via detours. I had to dry my wet clothes in the hotel first, and after a warm shower, I entered relaxation mode. It was pretty clear that I wouldn't be able to cycle over the Taurus Mountains in this weather in the next few days, so an alternative plan had to be made in the evening.