Velykyi Kuchuriv

I wake up on Thursday morning (05.07.2018) due to knocking noises on the door. The friendly hotel employee from the previous evening brings my breakfast around eight o'clock. The Dicke doesn't seem to be ready to get up yet, but when I offer him his portion of meat, he eventually agrees. After breakfast together, I enjoy the convenience of a shower once again, and then I lace up my shoes and backpack. Before we can continue, I have to improvise a paw protection for Rango's paw, as the Dicke is only walking on three legs. Then we continue eastward. I have decided to find a nice spot for camping in a suburb of Chernivtsi and to take a public transport to Chernivtsi for some city walks. The previous experiences with hotels and hostels in Ukraine suggest that. In the big city, I hope to find a cobbler and get Rango a pair of paw protectors. After the Dicke has gotten used to the padded socks over his paw, he can walk properly again and we can continue hiking the next kilometers in beautiful sunshine. After covering about 2 km of country road, we continue on a gravel road along fields and individual houses. After about 2 hours we take a break for a while on the terrace of a store on the outskirts of Velykyi Kuchuriv, enjoying coffee and ice cream. The place has several bus stops and is located on the railway line to Chernivtsi, so it is strategically convenient. On my map, there is a drinking water source indicated at the southeastern outskirts, near the small river Derelui. This suggests a good camping spot. There is no suitable spot for camping right at the water source, but the other side of the water gives some hope. After arriving there, I find myself at the entrance to a kind of garden plot with an impressive wooden house. I have already been noticed and decide to introduce myself and my request to the 3 men at the garden pond. And behold, I am allowed to set up my tent on the property. Great! I have to hurry with setting up because I am strongly urged to join them for a meal. So on Thursday, I don't get away from the sociable group. Even the attempt to get food for Rango in the village is thwarted, as the 'boss' sends one of his boys. In the meantime, I can at least sneak away to do some laundry. Ivana, who seems to own all of this, calls himself a bandit and after a tour of his dacha with sauna, billiard room, and several bedrooms, I have no doubt about it. Since the attempt to reject the first little drink didn't really work, I also lack good arguments to refuse the following ones. Throughout the evening, new acquaintances and relatives constantly join us, so there is always a reason to toast. Druschba! Around half past one, the last guests finally leave the property and I retreat to my tent.

On Friday, I get up around half past eight and walk to Kuchuriv for breakfast and to get some meat for Rango. I'm back at the tent around eleven o'clock, lay out my dry laundry, listen to some music, and doze off in the sun. In the afternoon, I set off for Chernivtsi. I can find a cobbler, but he doesn't want to repair my shoes - very unfortunate. I can't find a pet store, but on the way back, I treat myself to a visit to the hairdresser. It's a straightforward affair. Please sit down and off we go. It seems that what I have in mind doesn't matter much, I'm not asked. But the woman does her job very professionally. So after a good half hour of cutting, washing, and styling, I'm quite happy. I'm back at the tent and with Rango shortly after eight o'clock. The tent is broken, the poles are cracked. At first, it's unclear how this could have happened. But with a piece of the aluminum windscreen from my gasoline stove (from which I make a kind of sleeve), the problem is quickly solved and after a small dinner, I can move back into my four walls.

On Saturday morning, I am up again around half past eight. For the Dicke, there are plenty of chicken feet and torsos for breakfast, and for me scrambled eggs with ham and cheese. In the meantime, the probable course of events regarding the tent damage becomes clearer. An uncle leads his cows suspiciously close to the tent. One of the milking machines ventures too close to Rango, who plays the role of a 'dangerous predator' as a preventive measure, and the cow makes a big jump to the side. Likely onto my tent the day before... but it's all just speculation. After a call home, I set off again towards Chernivtsi at around eleven o'clock. On Friday, I hadn't made it to the city center yet. Czernivtsi's center makes a quite nice impression, although the state of renovation of most buildings is somewhat lacking by Western standards. On the way there, I pass through a kind of market that offers all sorts of delicacies and is overflowing with visitors. It's all about going with the flow. Near the center, I have coffee and ice cream during a short rain shower before slowly making my way back to the bus. This time, I find two specialty stores for pet supplies, but I can't find paw protectors in Rango's size. In the early evening, I am back at the tent in Kuchuriv and promptly get detained for dinner by one of Ivana's guests. So I spend the next few hours with my new Ukrainian friends, enjoying various delicacies, vodka, and interesting conversations.