Bodensee Cycle Path 3: Around the Untersee

Monday, 01.06.2021

Stage: from Konstanz to Konstanz

Distance traveled: 78 km

Today we had a special treat: because we wanted to circumnavigate the Untersee (divided into Gnadensee, Markelfinger Winkel, Zeller See and Rheinsee), our starting point was also our destination, so we could leave our luggage in the accommodation.

So we had a relaxed breakfast on a park bench while a cheerful city worker blew leaves around us. Getting out of Konstanz was not easy, but eventually we just followed the train tracks. The route was mostly well signposted, as it had been in the previous days, but we wanted to see some places in more detail and got a bit lost.

We then continued through tree-lined avenues, past meadows and close to the lake. In Wangen, we could visit a reconstructed pile house.

Eventually, we reached the beautiful town of Stein am Rhein, which was already in Switzerland. We hadn't seen a border, not even a sign or anything. The old town of Stein is beautiful though! The facades of the houses are very artistic and painted all over. In this beautiful environment, we took a lunch break and ate something.

The Rhine flows through Stein, more or less flowing out of the Untersee. We crossed it and followed the cycle path through slopes with apple orchards and through small towns, where we frequently stopped at inviting promenades by the water, enjoyed the view, and dipped our feet in the water. Pretty cold!

Back in Konstanz, Mama and I treated ourselves to an ice cream, got tested again, and soaked up the hustle and bustle of the city. In the evening, while eating, we tried a local beer called Ruppaner, which is definitely recommended.

Speaking of Konstanz: here's a funny anecdote about its history. In the year 1414, Konstanz had around 6000 inhabitants, which was huge for that time. Because there were 3 popes and none of them wanted to give in, the church called a council to settle it once and for all. It was supposed to take place in Konstanz. Over the next 4 years, over 60000 people visited the city: mainly cardinals, bishops, other important Catholics, and of course the 3 popes. These gatherings brought great wealth to Konstanz, but at the end of the council in 1417, there were about 700 registered prostitutes - for a population of 6000.