20.12.2017: Robert's Point Track - Watch your step!

When I first visited the two glaciers, I focused more on the Fox Glacier - I didn't even walk to the end of the most popular hiking trail to Franz Josef Glacier View Point, but only took pictures from a distance. This year it's the other way round - the area around Franz Josef Glacier is receiving much more attention.

I became aware of the Robert's Point Track through my English-language guidebook, where it is titled as the 'best day hike in Glacierland'. Since the author is clearly fitter than me based on my experience (if he classifies a hike as 'moderate', I can rely on reaching my limits and hardly being able to walk the next day due to muscle soreness), I am prepared for the worst when I read 'challenging' difficulty level. But the pictures lure me - I simply have to hike this track, along with Eric.

The weather forecast is optimal as we reach the visitor parking lot. Most of those who park their cars here only take the time for the one and a half hour Franz Josef Glacier Walk starting from here. I still have that on my list, but not for today. It is 1.5 km to the official entry point. After one kilometer, we pass 'Peter's Pool', a small mirror lake on whose calm surface the mountains are clearly reflected when there is no wind.

The Robert's Point Track is advertised as being 12.3 km long. The warning sign at the entry point warns of all dangers and that only experienced and well-equipped hikers should undertake it. Hopefully we have enough of both...

The trail starts harmless, but it quickly justifies the recommended fitness level. It starts with a very long swing bridge that allows a view of about 30 m depth (according to Eric's estimate), then leads over rubble slopes where the glacier once pushed along; we have to wade through (fortunately) shallow streams or hop over stones to the other side; climb a steep slope with the help of a tree root; and fight uphill for a long time. But the real challenge are the extremely slippery passages, and there are plenty of them. Our hiking boots and trekking poles find no hold on wet tree roots and stones. Every step needs to be carefully considered and may require a thorough examination before shifting one's weight. These sections cause a lot of time loss, and when we think we are close to our destination, about three-quarters of an hour still lies ahead of us.

But the effort has definitely paid off. From the viewing platform, we have an unbeatable view of the Franz Josef Glacier and the valley - we can even make out Lake Mapourika, about 15 km away, in the distance. Despite having left civilization far behind - it is not quiet up here. Every few minutes, one or two helicopters fly over us, circling around, flying very close to the ice, and then veering off again. It is a relatively short and expensive, but much more relaxed pleasure. In contrast, we have all the time in the world to enjoy the view, savor our lunch in peace, take dozens of photos, and even chat with a couple from Freiberg.

After about an hour, we start the return journey. Now it is a matter of getting back down on all the steep sections that we fought our way up earlier. More and more often, I seek support with my hands instead of using the trekking poles. The track is already challenging in good weather; in the rain, I would think twice about whether I really dare to undertake this adventure. One sprained ankle or slip can ruin the entire vacation. Faster than expected and actually unscathed, we reach the starting point of our hike in the afternoon. Not at the end of our strength, but quite exhausted, yet at the same time very satisfied. We call it a day and look forward to a warm shower and a well-deserved dinner at the hostel.