BLOG 26 / Buenos Aires - Argentynse Federale Hoofstad

What a contrast - from the relative loneliness of Tierra del Fuego and 12 degrees Celsius maximum temperature, we come to Buenos Aires - a megacity with 13.5 million people living in the metropolitan area and temperatures around 30 degrees Celsius. At the airport, we are welcomed by our city guide Osvaldo - a 71-year-old Argentine of Austrian descent who has also lived in Austria for several years. However, he has remained an enthusiastic "Porteño" - a resident of Buenos Aires. The next day, he shows us "his" city with great enthusiasm and some peculiarities. For our first evening, he gives us the excellent tip to eat a steak at the restaurant "La Estancia" not far from our hotel - it was a delight!

Buenos Aires still shows its former wealth today with proud palaces and magnificent buildings, although the economic problems of the last decades have left unmistakable marks. For Osvaldo, Juan Peron, with his still revered second wife Evita - whom Osvaldo always derogatorily referred to as "La Golfa" - was the core of all evil, especially after Peron's second presidency in 1973. At that time, Osvaldo lost his restaurant "Wien" and now lives on a pension of 300 EUR per month and his work as a tour guide.

From Avenida 9 de Julio, we come to Plaza Lavalle, surrounded by the magnificent Palace of Justice, the Teatro Colon (nearby is the cafe "Petite Colon"), and the primary school (!) Presidente Roca. Passing the Palacio de las Aguas Corriente - the old waterworks, behind its rich facade are mainly water tanks - we arrive at Plaza de Mayo, one of the main squares of the city. Here you will find the cathedral in the style of a Greek temple, where today's Pope Francis was active, is unmistakable inside. The square is bordered to the east by the Casa Rosada, the government palace. From its balcony, Evita delivered her speech to the Argentinians - as did Madonna for the movie "Evita".

Next stop is another curiosity - the former theater "Grand Splendid" was empty for a long time and was supposed to be demolished, but was then bought and restored by the El Ateneo bookstore group and is now a very atmospheric bookstore.

Now we are in the neighborhood of "La Boca" - home of the football team "Boca Juniors" and with the reputation of being a rather "dangerous" district. At least during the day, there is no talk of danger, it has become a tourist hot spot - but the colorful houses have still preserved their own flair.

The old port Puerto Madero with the sailing ship Presidente Sarmiento is now "in" - on one side the storage buildings have been revitalized and on the other side of the harbor basin, skyscrapers reach for the sky.

To conclude the day, we visit the Palermo neighborhood, with its rose garden and the La Recoleta Cemetery - the tombs are and were very magnificent, but here too, the decay is unmistakable. We skip the tomb of Evita - the main attraction for tourists - we don't feel like waiting in the long line of onlookers.

We really liked Buenos Aires - with its wide boulevards, the slightly morbid charm, and its (mostly) friendly residents.

What a contrast - from the relative loneliness of Tierra del Fuego and 12 degrees Celsius maximum temperature, we are jumping into the megacity Buenos Aires with some 13.5 million people living in the region and around 30 degrees Celsius ambient. Osvaldo, our city guide, is waiting for us at the airport. He is a 71-year-old Argentinian with Austrian roots - he has also lived in Austria for some years. But he is definitely very proud to be a "Porteño" - an inhabitant of Buenos Aires. The day after, he is showing us "his city" with enthusiasm and pointing out some curiosities. His recommendation for our first dinner was excellent - "La Estancia" not far away from our hotel was "yummy!"

Today, Buenos Aires still presents its richness of former times with great palaces and magnificent buildings, even though the economic troubles of the country in the last decades have left their signs obviously. Juan Peron and his still admired second wife Evita - Osvaldo always called her snarky "La Golfa" - are the core of evil for our guide. Especially the second presidentship of Peron after 1973 was bad times - Osvaldo lost his restaurant "Vienna" and today he has to survive with a pension of 300 EUR per month and the earnings of his guide activities.

Along Avenida 9 de Julio we reach Plaza Lavalle. Surrounded by the beautiful palace of justice, the Teatro Colon (close by the nice cafe "Petite Colon") and the primary school (!) Presidente Roca. Passing the Palacio de las Aguas Corriente - the old waterworks, behind the rich decorated facade there are mainly water tanks - and after a short break in the cafe "London City" in spite of its British name a typical Viennese cafe we are getting to Plaza de Mayo, one of the main squares of the city.

Here you find the cathedral in style of an ancient Greek temple - former the church where todays Pope Francis was active - unmistakable inside. Casa Rosada - seat of the government - is at the east of the plaza. From the balcony, the real Evita and Madonna in her film had their speeches.

Next another curiosity - the former theater "Grand Splendid". Years ago it was abandoned and about to be teared off, but was bought by book trade group El Atenao and renovated to a beautiful bookstore today.

Now we are in "La Boca" district - home of the soccer team "Boca Juniors" and said to be one of the dangerous quarters of the city. At least during the day, there is no danger - it became a tourist hot spot, but the colorful houses still kept their specific flair.

The old harbor Puerto Madero (clipper Presidente Sarmiento is there) changed to an "In-quarter" today, on side the revitalized storage buildings and on the other side of the harbor basin modern skyscrapers are built.

As day's final, we visit the Palermo quarter with its beautiful rose garden and the La Recoleta cemetery. Pompous tombs should show the richness of the families, but the decline is visible on every second corner. We did not visit the main tourist attraction - the tomb of Evita - since we were not willing to stand in the enormous queue of people waiting there.

We enjoyed our stay in Buenos Aires - wide boulevards, the slightly morbid charm, and the (at least mostly) friendly people.