在这次旅行中，我们真的没有省心！但从头开始：

我们昨天向露营地的老板和两个从南方到达我们露营地的年轻荷兰人询问，哪条Route穿越Khaudum到南方可能是最好走的。两人都告诉我们同一条较长的路线，102公里到南方营地。所以我们昨天选择了这条路线今天出发。

今天早上8点30分，我们出发。天空多云，感激的是，这样开车就不会太热。大约1小时30分钟后，我让Wilfried接替驾驶。我喜欢在沙地小路上开车。这是一种“柔软”的感觉，只要没有树木横在路上，我就可以顺利地驶入旁边的“荒地”，以躲避障碍物。我们没有看到很多动物，不过看到了一些长颈鹿，一些大型马羚，一些小型羚羊和一只完全疯狂的豪猪，它在我们前方大约3公里处的沙路上奔跑，不肯离开道路。我们无法超越它。左右是灌木丛！

我们停了下来，让它继续跑，我们等了一会儿，但几分钟后我们又追上它了——它仍然在路上跑！大约3公里后，当它看起来非常疲惫时，它向右转，消失在灌木丛中。它可能是在为马拉松训练🤣

我们开了大约2小时30分钟，在远处开始雷鸣，3小时后开始下雨。谢天谢地，它并没有真的下大雨，但雨势还是相当猛烈。Wilfried又接过了方向盘。起初路面仍然很沙，然后变成了石头，突然一条小河迎面而来。在这里之前肯定下过不少雨，因为荷兰人在描述路线时提到的那些无害的水坑，如今都变成了相当深的小湖。那张照片是在一天后拍的——湖已经缩小了。但在暴风雨的正中间，我并不想拍照。

每一次我们都在颤抖，担心能否通过。浪花飞溅，不止一次，我们的车在湖中侧滑，但又恢复了稳定，顺利地到达对岸。这真是一段非常惊险的旅程，因难以辨识的路标和疯狂的导航系统增添了更多的紧张气氛。我们的两位勇敢的男士表现得像无畏的潜艇驾驶员，安全地将我们带过每一个深水区。

在经过6（！）小时后，我们幸运而又疲惫地到达了目的地。露营地的一部分也被水淹没了。接待处是一个相对新的建筑，竟然有……真让人难以置信……一个游泳池，在大雨中，一个工作人员正在用网子清理池中的泥土！我们笑得肚子都疼。这样的对比确实只有在非洲才能见到！有一条通往营地的路几乎无法通行，而在尽头却有一家带游泳池的旅馆！我们向白人露营经理Marie抱怨路标不清晰。她说她自己从未去过那里，并将把这个问题传达上去。人们对自己的通道不了解并不奇怪——这里有个飞机场——Marie可能是被飞来这里的！这就是非洲！

为了安抚我们的神经，也作为对我们大家的奖励，我做了橙子酱煎饼，并且还有咖啡

天气相对凉爽，Werner点燃了篝火，而Wilfried则给“驴子”（这是一个用木头加热的户外锅炉）加热，以便我们都能洗个热水澡。

令人兴奋的一天即将结束。我们在非洲还有5天——它们会带来什么呢？]]>https://vakantio.de/zh-CN/blog/afrikanisches-abenteuer-namibia/102-km-im-1-und-2-ganghttps://vakantio.de/zh-CN/blog/afrikanisches-abenteuer-namibia/102-km-im-1-und-2-gangSun, 20 Apr 2025 16:22:00 GMT-14.2366500937136624.918116925320717

June 28, 2019

Last day of school - start of summer vacation!

Our African adventure can begin!

Tonight at 20:45 our night flight with South African Airways from Frankfurt to Johannesburg starts. The flight is on time, we can even sleep for a few hours before we reach O.R. Tambo Airport in Johannesburg at half past seven in the morning.

June 29, 2019

After a 3-hour layover, we continue with South African Airways to Livingstone, Zambia.

The sky is cloudless, from the air we recognize the mountain ranges on the border with Botswana and even fly over the Zambezi River and the Victoria Falls (unfortunately I am sitting on the wrong side, so I cannot see the Victoria Falls).

Our booked hotel 'The Victoria Falls Waterfront' has several 'houses', each with 2 double rooms on the ground floor and a family room on the first floor.

The rooms are simple and functional.

All beds are equipped with a huge mosquito net (and that's a good thing!), but the sisal carpet that has been laid everywhere, even in the bathroom, takes some getting used to.

When it gets wet, which can happen while showering or at the sink, it smells very unpleasant.

In addition, the houses are 'open' everywhere - so we enjoy many creepy crawlies.

Fortunately, there are no spiders, but small geckos that we can watch in the bathroom in the evening while hunting mosquitoes.

The balcony of our room is our personal highlight. Very spacious, furnished with 4 chairs, we can watch the monkeys in the tree in front of us. However, upon arrival, we were instructed to always keep the doors and windows closed, as the harmless-looking monkeys are up to no good and would love to raid the kitchenette and refrigerator.

A short walk through the garden takes us to the Zambezi.

The hotel has a small sun terrace with a view of the river, a small pool in the middle of the terrace, and attached to it a restaurant, a bar, and a huge pizza oven!

We sit here by the river until the evening, enjoy the view, play cards with the kids, and plan tomorrow's day.

The pizza from the pizza oven, by the way, is extremely delicious!

Once the sun has set, it gets very chilly.

While the daytime temperature was still a pleasant +25 degrees, it cools down rapidly to only +3 degrees at night.

How lucky that we have long pajamas and thick fleece jackets with us.

In our room, we are greeted by mosquitoes - many mosquitoes!

They look like horseflies, but we are not sure. As a precaution, we use our supply of insect repellent and try to climb into bed under the mosquito net without letting a mosquito find its way under the net.

Of course, this doesn't work on the first try and we all sit under our net armed with a flashlight on our phone, trying to hunt down the individual mosquitoes.

At some point, we succeed and we can sleep.

At least we don't have to worry about malaria, as we have decided to take 'Malarone'.

That works great too - none of us has problems with the medication and safety comes first.

However, we are probably the only ones taking malaria medication.

The waiters find it amusing when they see our malaria meds on the table - there is no malaria in Livingstone.

Well, we still take it (who knows!!?)

星期三，我们经过一段非常艰苦的旅程（10小时）后，抵达了位于国家公园中心的住所。在前往我们的旅馆的路上，我们非常幸运地目睹了三只距离我们的车仅三米的象悠闲地进食。这是无与伦比的感觉。

From our last stop in Botswana, the city of Kasane, it was only a 10-minute taxi ride to the border of Zambia. In order to enter Zambia, we had to queue up with truck drivers for a 2-minute ferry ride - Botswana and Zambia have been in dispute for years over who should pay for the construction of a cross-border bridge. Once we arrived on the other side, we had to pay a proud $50 for the visa and then, as always as Mzungu (which actually means traveler, but has become a synonym for "white"), we were besieged by countless men and women trying to sell us bus tickets, taxi rides, food and drink, and countless other things. In the midst of the hustle and bustle, however, we discovered a Dutch family that we had already met on a boat trip and tried our luck and asked for a ride to our first destination, Livingstone (Victoria Falls), with their caravan. To our luck, the parents of the four-headed gang were very happy to have our company, as while we had to hand over countless papers and also USD for an additional insurance for their caravan in Zambia, we could take a look at the children.

Arriving cheaply in Livingstone, it quickly became clear to us that our travel budget here was not enough for the variety of activities offered here in combination with the Victoria Falls. From rafting, swimming on the edge of the waterfall, helicopter flights to bungee jumping from a 110m high bridge into the depths against the backdrop of the Victoria Falls, you can experience it all here. However, you should already have several hundred USD ready for the activities.

We then decided to initially opt for the relatively unspectacular visit to the Victoria Falls. Before that, we used our double visa for Zambia and Zimbabwe and set off on foot to Victoria Falls, the first city after the border with Zambia.

Before that, we admired the bungee jumpers with trembling knees...

...as well as the workers on the Victoria Falls Bridge, which forms the border between the two countries.

After a little souvenir shopping, we went back to the park in Zambia.

Although the river does not have the highest water level because we are in the middle of the dry season, the amount of water and the noise of this natural spectacle are truly impressive.

We even got a free shower.

We then used the next day to relax by the pool in our hostel and visit the Livingstone Museum, which is the largest and oldest museum in Zambia and exhibits historical artifacts of geography, culture, flora and fauna as well as the Scottish explorer and missionary David Livingstone.

The next day, we took part in one of the most impressive tours on our trip so far. Wezi, a guide from the "Local Cowboy Cycle Tours," took us on a bike tour through the neighboring villages in Livingstone and showed us the "real" Africa away from the luxury hotels and lodges, the activities around the waterfalls, and the other tourist hustle and bustle.

We met people who spend the whole day manually processing stones for cement processing in a quarry, children who cannot enjoy an education, and women who toil in the sun until old age.

Despite the many hardships of these people, we were warmly welcomed, greeted, and shook hands.

The proceeds from this great work are used to build and maintain a school in a nearby village. Here, over 200 students can learn and since this year, they also receive a warm meal per day.

At the end of the tour, we visited a local market with some local delicacies :D

We are very happy about all these impressions and in the hours and days afterwards, we thought a lot about our luck of growing up in a country where we lack nothing, can enjoy education as well as medical care at any time, and about the birth lottery.

Our last stop in Zambia was then the capital, Lusaka, which, apart from a very chaotic market/bus station and a mall, did not have much to offer for us.

The highlight was finally the 1,000 km long train journey from Lusaka to Mbeya, Tanzania.

How this train journey went and whether we actually made it to Tanzania in the planned 24 hours, you will find out in our next blog.

Spoiler alert: We wouldn't recommend the train journey! :D

Love and see you soon,

Matthias and Lisa

呃……真是个奇怪的夜晚。我们在卢旺瓜河（赞比亚的河流）旁边搭起了帐篷。营地叫做野生动物营，它名副其实。傍晚时分，印帕拉羊在附近吃草，狒狒试图偷我们的食物。我们得到了安全信息，因为晚上河马常常在帐篷间吃草，有时甚至狮子或鬣狗也会造访营地。果然，当我半夜醒来时，听到了一个河马在我帐篷前吃草的声音。这种感觉很奇妙。早晨起床时，我们听到了远处狮子在咆哮和鬣狗在哭叫。

早上6:00，我们开始了南卢旺瓜国家公园的晨间游戏驱动。非常震撼。我们看到了许多东西，从小到大应有尽有。

经过4小时，我们返回营地。

直到晚上，我们可以休息，或者做些其他事情。

下午4:00，我们又开始了夜间游戏驱动。兴奋再次升温。

这次我们看到了狮子。它们刚刚捕杀了一只印帕拉羊，正在路中间悠闲地休息。排名最低的雌狮还在啃食印帕拉羊的头。

离狮子不远的地方，我们又遇到了一小群大象和小象。小象大概才几个月大。

公园里的日落饮品几乎是字面意思，因下起雨来了。当黑暗降临时，我们开始寻找豹子。不幸的是没有找到。不过我们看到了正在吃草的河马和其他夜间活动的动物。

我还得耐心等待寻找豹子。不幸的是，这次没能找到。也许在下次的游戏驱动中会有好运。

After our first night in Zambia, we packed the essentials for the next 2 days. Canoeing on the Zambezi with wild camping on the riverbanks was on the agenda. The goal was to paddle 66 km in two stages.

Once the canoes were loaded, we set off in glorious sunshine. Today's stage goal was 36 km. The current helped with paddling, but the river was rather sluggish. We also had to avoid hippo groups that didn't appreciate us getting too close to them with our canoes.

There were crocodiles and eagles along the riverbanks watching us

After about 6 hours, we reached our island, where we set up our camp for the night. My arms were about to fall off and I had blisters on my hands.

Island life was quite interesting, there was a lot to see, especially a bunch of insects.

We did some birdwatching with the guides, trying to recognize birds by their calls.

The next day, we were picked up by a motorboat and brought back to our camp.

津巴布韦的一大亮点是维多利亚瀑布。这是一个巨大的瀑布，隔开了津巴布韦和赞比亚。瀑布并不是特别高，但非常宽。

在维多利亚瀑布周围总是“下雨”。这不是实际的雨，而是由不同的瀑布产生的水雾。这意味着任何不想损坏的物品都要打包好，因为这些水雾会像大雨一样落回地面。

这种水雾也使得看瀑布变得困难。尤其是现在，水位很高，巨量的水猛轰而下。我们能从距瀑布3公里远的旅馆听到瀑布的声音。

水雾还有一个绝妙的特性，就是能折射光线，因此可以看到大量的彩虹。

为了第一眼看到瀑布，我们去到了津巴布韦和赞比亚之间的桥上。为此需要一个特殊签证，最终会得到一张纸，上面写着团队中的人数。持护照的人被视为正式出境，回去时需要新的签证（费用30美元）。

不过除了水雾之外，几乎没有其他东西可看。因此我们返回了津巴布韦，进入了维多利亚瀑布国家公园。

第一次真正看到维多利亚瀑布。沿途提供了不同的视角来观察瀑布。

如果运气好并且时机恰当，就能获得一个清晰的视角来欣赏瀑布。

这里也有我们只在动物园见过的动物。

现在我们又坐上了巴士，从津巴布韦出发前往约翰内斯堡。在著名的奥卡万戈三角洲之后，我们经纳米比亚前往津巴布韦的维多利亚瀑布。这里的景色令人难以置信，尤其是博茨瓦纳让我留下了深刻的印象。这里的人口密度是世界上最低的之一，每平方公里只有3个人。因此，在这里开车3-4个小时而碰不到一个人是完全有可能的。我曾以为美国会荒凉，但博茨瓦纳让我再次感受到更极端的孤独，或许这也与这里除了稍微铺设的道路之外没有任何文明迹象有关，而在美国你总能看到路标或类似的东西。由于我们此刻正值雨季，到处都是绿意盎然，甚至包括卡拉哈里沙漠也是如此。幸运的是，此时气温也不是过于炎热，通常是多云和下雨的天气。

另一个亮点是我们在乔贝国家公园的狩猎驱车和日落巡游。我们看到了无数大象，它们对人类的接触显得出奇地毫无恐惧。

我们对纳米比亚的印象却非常浅薄，因为我们只是经过而已。

然而，我们得以充分享受维多利亚瀑布。我们在上午晚些时候抵达这里，并立即沿着瀑布的方向出发。沿着瀑布的步行非常令人印象深刻。我们很想跨越津巴布韦的边界进行一次徒步旅行，因为在赞比亚一侧的步道上可以到达魔鬼池。不幸的是，因水位过高而无法实现。不过，这也不是太糟糕，我坚信此次津巴布韦之行不会是最后一次。

相反，伊莎尝试了“桥滑”，她通过一根绳子滑过河流。我则在桥上散步，观察和拍照。科琳娜、帕特里克和凯文陪伴了我们，我们通过游牧旅游相识，并一起度过了大部分时光。剩下的时间非常舒适，我们喝了咖啡，稍作放松。经过最近几天的忙碌和多次旅行之后，这种放松让人非常舒服。