On one hand, we are looking forward to continuing our journey to the Faroe Islands and the return trip; on the other hand, there is also a tinge of sadness about saying goodbye to Iceland. It has been nearly 3 very intense months, intense in every way, both very beautiful and very challenging.

On Day 7, we are going to enjoy ourselves and start with a delicious breakfast with the world's best coffee 🤩 in a small cafe near our apartment. 

After that, sightseeing in Swakopmund and to the delight of the youth, shopping 🛍🤑 

In the evening, we treat ourselves to a delicious dinner at the top address in Swakopmund before we have to get up early again tomorrow.

After working in Zurich, a visit to the radio in the courtyard of the National Museum is a must for me at least once in the summer. For those who are not familiar: The National Museum right by the main train station is the most visited cultural history museum in Switzerland, and this slightly castle-like building, along with the modern new wing, provides a pretty beautiful backdrop. The radio itself is essentially a radio festival that has been broadcasting live from the courtyard of the National Museum every summer since 2004, featuring national and international DJs, bars, food stalls, and people simply winding down their summer evenings. From 5 PM onwards, people gather there to enjoy the relaxed end of the summer days, and that was exactly the plan.

The line was quite long, though, and it took a while before we were able to get inside. But well, that's almost part of the experience now.

Once inside, I first waited for my friends Eli and Fabian. Of course, not without a drink in hand and plenty of people watching. The outfits of the people were really something, which made the waiting time fly by.

When the two finally arrived, we indulged and got pizza and a white wine. Unfortunately, this year there were also wasps joining the party for free. None of us had ordered those annoying creatures.

The beats were consistently really good, and at some point, we were just standing right in the middle of the lights.

To be honest, I did not expect there to be further improvement after the wonderful old town with 'Le Petite Venice'. Riquewihr is located in a valley open to the east. The town is framed by the hills with vineyards of the Vosges foothills. Over the centuries, the town has prospered because of its vineyards and the trade of its wines, which are well-known throughout Europe. This prosperity is also reflected in the old town, which has retained its very dense urban structure. The houses from the 15th to 18th centuries form an exceptionally rich architectural complex.

Now it should finally work out with La Rochelle. We headed to the parking lot at the main train station, parked Gary there, and walked the few steps over to the harbor.

At the 'Tour Saint-Nicolas', we took our first photos, but not of the tower, rather of 'La Belle du Gabut'. This former industrial complex had been functioning as an alternative cultural and event area for some time and greatly reminded us of Leipzig's Feinkost and Werk II. Unfortunately, we didn’t find anything suitable at the stalls that we wanted to buy, but we took the spirit of the place with us.

Then we turned our attention to the historic city and visited the sights one after another; there were quite a few towers here. We had already visited the first and most famous tower, so we continued along the harbor with the 'Tour de la Chaîne', 'Tour de la Lanterne', and the tower of 'Église Saint-Sauveur'.

Then we headed from the harbor into the city, but the theme followed us here as well. Walking between the predominantly well-preserved buildings made of local limestone was very pleasant, as the columned arcades created a pleasantly cool climate. The town hall presented itself once again with a tower and the two striking Gothic-style gates, which of course remained closed on Sunday.

In the little streets, many old half-timbered houses were well preserved, with the timber framework often dressed in slate tiles here.

At the end of our tour, we encountered two more towers. The clock tower above the 'Porte de la Grosse Horloge' and the lighthouse with the green cap, which was not found on any map and in any description, and perhaps was just a harbor signal.

After our city walk, we picked up Gary again at the train station (this building also had a tower with a clock, of course) and continued to Fouras. We had had enough of cities for now; it was back to the sea. Fortunately, our parking spot for the night had its own beach access, which we of course took advantage of immediately upon our arrival.

This year, I had another trip to Barcelona, and I finally snagged some tickets. Then, shortly before, I had to realize that I had made a mistake with the date. How dumb can one be! Fortunately, it's free to return the tickets up to 48 hours beforehand. So the money was saved. And sometimes luck is on your side, as I was able to purchase new tickets for the correct day.

However, I had to reschedule my train journey for that. At the train station itself, there were no storage options due to all the construction work, so I had to store my bags nearby at a high cost. The station is currently under renovation; it's really awful there. But everything worked out in the end.

You can't imagine the crowds standing outside the cathedral taking photos. And the security check at the Sagrada Família is stricter than at the airport. Even after going through the scanner, I still had to unpack my bag, and my stomach drops were scrutinized. Goodness, glass bottles are technically forbidden, even very small ones. But okay, it's important medicine. I was allowed in with my stomach drops.

In the end, I finally got inside. The Sagrada Família fully lived up to my expectations. I had seen many photos and Gaudí's works on other objects before, so I wasn't completely surprised. Light plays a central role here. Everything shines in different colors, and then there’s that cake decorator architecture!

I would love to come back at a different time of day, with different lighting, and especially with fewer people.

Since I booked the combination ticket with the tower visit, I also went up. The elevator takes you up 65 meters. To come down, you have to go alone down the spiral staircase. That was, of course, no problem. However, a proper visit from the top was not really possible. There were here and there a sort of small lookout and a small bridge, but everything was tightly gridded. I tried to take the few photos that were possible skillfully through the grates.

But why am I talking so long here? Just look at the photos of the Sagrada Família for yourself.

Tip: Here is the link to the official ticket site:

https://sagradafamilia.org/tickets-individuals

One can purchase tickets there at the earliest two months in advance. Free returns are possible up to 48 hours prior.

Extra tip: The printed time is taken very seriously by the entrance staff, but arriving 15 minutes earlier is possible.

At the airport, we will be welcomed by Zudu, who will take us to the next accommodation in his Jeep.

The ride there is full of surprises, the reception is warm ☺️

Again, several jeeps arrived, but the first to come by randomly was the driver with whom we had traveled the day before. He warmly greeted us and invited us to get back into his vehicle.

For a moment, we feared that we might be experiencing the same tour again, just a few hours later. But right at the start, he took a different path than all the other drivers. Suddenly, we were alone and could quietly observe a group of giraffes up close.

We learned a lot about giraffes, saw a very old specimen in its likely final years of life, and passed by a hippopotamus that had been lying in the exact same position at the same spot since early morning.

It seemed to be one of the 'losers,' as our guide explained: a male animal that had lost the fight against a competitor the previous night, who was now allowed to surround himself with the group’s females. The trainee accompanying us today told us that veterinarians would examine the hippopotamus and remove it should it die there, considering potential diseases as a cause. Otherwise, nature would take its course – likely involving crocodiles and hyenas.

So it was a calm ride.

Until our jeep got stuck in the sand. 🙈

The day before, I had wondered if something like this could actually happen here. Now I knew.

There might have been something wrong with the differential gear. In any case, the vehicle only sank deeper into the sand with each attempt to free itself.

We were reliant on help and were quite relieved when other jeeps finally arrived. However, the first attempts to pull us out were unsuccessful. There was certainly a certain tension in the air – after all, we had just been on our way to see the lions. 🦁

Eventually, we were indeed freed. However, since our jeep could get stuck again at any moment, the driver who had pulled us out remained nearby just in case.

As a thank you, our guide wanted to show him where the lions were currently located.

They were on the hunt.

In the tall grass, they lay almost invisible, waiting. Meanwhile, a group of elephants with several babies was slowly approaching. We weren't quite sure if we actually wanted to witness an attack or not. Definitely not a successful one.

The elephants moved forward cautiously while the lions remained completely motionless in the grass.

And then it was time for our scheduled drink break. 😳

So we drove a few hundred meters further to the other side of the tall grass. There, we spotted a herd of antelopes. We actually got out, received drinks and snacks, and observed the antelopes – fully aware that just a few hundred meters away, several lions were lying in wait in the grass.

Just a safari break. 😉

Shortly after, we got back in and started our way back. However, we didn’t get far.

Because suddenly, the lions emerged from the grass.

One after another, they moved towards us. 😳

For our guides, it was probably less surprising than for us when they eventually veered off, walking between the jeeps and boats and further towards the antelope herd.

And at that very moment, we had to turn back.

So we don’t know how the story continued for the lions and antelopes.

Nevertheless, we were impressed.

And perhaps a little relieved as well. 🦁🦌

About a year ago, I learned that I would get to go to London for an internship abroad. I still remember exactly how I felt hot and cold all at once when I found out. My brother was visiting me in Cologne at the time, and we toasted immediately with a Kölsch. However, I really realized that I would be living in London for two months only after I passed through customs at Düsseldorf Airport. Suddenly, it was no longer just an internship on paper, but rather a suitcase, a flight, and an unfamiliar city. A new life, at least for a little while.

Not long before, I had completed my bachelor thesis, so I was still somewhat in the university tunnel. My mother accompanied me during the first week, which made things much easier for me. We had a great quality time in London and already made the rounds of the first pubs. Unfortunately, we didn't do well in the pub quiz, but I hope to make it up soon. We tried our best, but it was English listening comprehension level 1000. With the microphone and so many people, it was really hard to understand everything well. For some questions, we just looked at each other confused. Nevertheless, we had fun. We also visited the British Museum. There was classic tea time with scones, cakes, and sandwiches.

I live in Lambeth, about 20 minutes away from my workplace. In many respects, I consider myself very lucky. My roommates are very, very nice, my room, and the area are great (comparable to Cologne-Lindenthal: quiet but central, many cafes, and excellent transport links). Only the initial struggle with the keybox almost made things difficult for me because I had tried to open the wrong one. I already feel very comfortable in London, even though I've only been here for two weeks.

Unlike Barcelona, this is not my first time living alone. I can manage the household more or less well. In preparation for my time in London, I took an English course at the university and renewed my Cambridge certificate. Additionally, I have provided tutoring in English. So, one could say: My English is the yellow from the egg. ;)

I am doing my internship at ZDF in London. On my first day of work, I had to take a second look. While I often walked past kiosks and tram stops in Cologne, suddenly Big Ben was right in front of me. It felt somewhat surreal to pass by a place on the way to work that I had only known from television. This way, ZDF is right at the scene, and we can report quickly if something happens. Just before my internship, British Prime Minister Keir Starmer resigned. Unfortunately, I wasn't there when that happened. However, I was allowed to write an article about the by-election in Clacton-on-Sea, which I really enjoyed. Seeing my name under the article makes me proud, and I feel like I'm one step further on my way to becoming a journalist. https://www.zdfheute.de/politik/ausland/grossbritannien-nigel-farage-wahl-reform-uk-muelleimer-100.html

As an intern, I am entrusted with a lot of responsibilities and can take on numerous tasks. I have already helped with two reports, conducted an interview with an author who wrote a book about the Beckhams, attended several camera shoots, and was given research tasks. I am treated as an equal, and everyone is very helpful.

I often catch myself looking forward to returning to work after hours. Because I never know what awaits me the next day. Last week, I was spontaneously asked if I wanted to go to Bristol to help out for a live broadcast. Just a moment before, I was sitting back and relaxing with my sandwich, and suddenly, I found myself in a van on the English highway towards Bristol. This way, I had the chance to meet the president of the Kiel Institute for the World Economy.

A highlight rarely comes alone, and this weekend, I had a visit from one of my best friends. Lorena and I met during the first week of college and have been pretty inseparable since then. Together, we significantly improved my step count, which had been really low due to all the sitting at my desk. On Friday, we attended a DJ gig by James Hype and Meduza after having delicious pie at a British pub. There, I tried the beer Neck Oil for the first time. Unfortunately, I didn't like it, but the waiter hadn’t charged it on the bill, something I only realized later. A stroke of luck in misfortune.

Arrived and ready for Meduza, only a drug dog stood between me and my happiness. For reasons unknown to me, it found me suspicious, and I was searched, only to be asked for my ID while buying a cider on the premises. But all this couldn't stop Lorena and me from dancing. I found the evening really cool. The music was more house music, and you could sing along. The next day, we visited the British Museum. The entrance was free, which is really nice in London since everything else is quite expensive here. After that, we went to a Japanese place in Soho. Lorena had sushi, and I had katsu curry. Soooo delicious.

Since we don’t usually treat ourselves, we then strolled through St. James’s Park with an iced latte to Buckingham Palace. Hello King Charles; unfortunately, he wasn't home. In the evening, we went to Duck & Waffle. Great view, great cocktails. We had a fantastic evening and were there for almost four hours. This way, we could see both the sunset and London at night. Today, we continued the sporty part of the trip to Tower Bridge, Greenwich, and a total of 20,000 steps. Tomorrow, unfortunately, Lorena is going back, but before that, we're going to have lunch and shop together. I hope you enjoyed my blog post and are eagerly waiting for the next one.

Greetings from London xx

Indeed, we were separately invited to this exclusive party with him and his officers, and alongside snacks and cocktails, there were also photos with the charming and incredibly approachable captain.

But it's not just him who is so wonderfully engaging; our Cabin Steward Russel is also delightful, it's just unbelievable. We really didn't do much other than book a cabin on the Queen Victoria.

Of course, not everything is perfect, and I was quite irritated by some things at first. We are not really experienced cruisers and have previously only been on the two Mein Schiff inaugural voyages of the Relax and the Flow. The concept on these ships: All-inclusive, all drinks, even cocktails are free. Now, I'm not much of a drinker of alcoholic beverages, but on the Queen Victoria, even sparkling water is charged.

Only ice water and coffee/tea are free. Coffee drinks like cappuccino must be paid for. So, clearly a downside here.

And I sometimes had my difficulties with the food too, as it was very much English.

Speaking of food: The concept at Cunard is contact with other guests. The tables are intentionally set close together, and in most cases, a conversation quickly unfolds. Interestingly, it's especially easy to connect with older guests or those of a similar age. My English is good enough for me to understand everything and engage in conversation myself. Younger passengers, on the other hand, are less interested in conversation and are indeed mostly glued to their smartphones.

But no matter where, at least on board, I can attest to this: The English are simply a friendly bunch. And since everyone is on an English ship, everyone else is also much friendlier (including the Germans).

People were chatting everywhere, whether in the restaurant, at the bar, or even in the laundrette. For those who don't know what the latter is: Those are the laundry rooms. You can wash and dry for free there. With the high outdoor temperatures here in the Mediterranean (always over 30 °C), our need was high too and we made good use of it. My ship doesn't offer this service, for example.

By the way, ironing is often done in the laundrettes here too. This is likely due to another special feature of Cunard: the dress code! Yes, there's an emphasis on better clothing for dinner.

Excerpt from the daily program: 'Dear guest/guests, we would like to remind you of our dress code ...

Smart Attire: From 5:30 PM, we kindly ask you to wear elegant clothing in most bars and restaurants, such as collared shirts, elegant blouses, trousers, skirts, or dresses.'

On the multiple gala evenings, the bar is set even higher. I quote: 'Wear your finest evening gown.' Gentlemen are requested to come in suits or tuxedos, and of course with ties or bow ties.

In any case, the gala evenings are high in spectacle; it's practically impossible to be overdressed. You can certainly tell who feels at home in such clothing. Some outfits, on the other hand, look a bit out of place, such as those that remind more of table or crochet cloths or throws. And then there was also this Texan who could have appeared in the original 'Dallas' TV series with his Stetson cowboy hat.

By the way, gala evenings might also appeal to carnival lovers, at least when it comes to dressing up, since each evening has its own theme. During our stay, there was a 'Black and White' evening and a 'Masquerade'. And what can I say, people were prepared for everything. For example, a gentleman in a black suit with a white shirt and a wide white scarf over his shoulder (he must have definitely ironed).

And of course, the most amazing masks were worn for the masquerade. We actually had some, namely cat masks, which we had purchased here. There is always some kind of sale on board with more affordable products, and these were among them.

But how did I even end up on the Queen Victoria? I really wanted to experience the solar eclipse in 2026 aboard a ship, and Cunard, the British shipping company to which the Queen Victoria belongs, simply offered a route that suited me. However, it was fully booked. By chance, I managed to snag a returned cabin, number 8105. The eighth deck is here, by the way, the highest passenger deck.

Fully booked means on the Queen Victoria that there are just over 2,000 passengers on board, in addition to about 1,000 crew members. By the way, most passengers booked this cruise already two years ago, as the captain mentioned.

Our Cabin Steward Russel, by the way, we met right upon entering our cabin. And since then, he knows our first names and greets us personally even in distant corridors.

What actually surprised and also bothered me was the rather outdated standard of the cabins. One single European socket is just too little in today's times, especially when everyone has several devices to charge. Our brought international adapters were also unhelpful because a protruding cover made it impossible to use them. In my desperation, I actually bought a power strip in Civitavecchia. It can always come in handy, right?

I would have certainly found it helpful if there had been plug adapters available for rent on board. But there weren't.

The Wi-Fi through Starlink is actually quite modern and fast, but apart from a free trial hour, it's quite expensive, depending on the package, ranging from 28 to 44 US dollars for 24 hours.

But I still have to tell you about the legendary Teatime: Every afternoon between 3 and 4 PM, it takes place in the Queens Room. You sit at tables dressed in white linens, on which the tea set is already laid out. Then, exactly at 3 PM, the waiters come in with their teapots. Everything is very classic and pleasant. There are sandwiches, sweets, and of course, scones.

And as for entertainment, Cunard doesn't have to hide either. For instance, we saw the Broadway musical 'Come From Away' at the theater. Cunard has its own Royal Court Theatre Company for that. There were also many other artists; we saw a tap dance group called 'The Tap Chaps'. Also very good, although I must admit that in normal life, I would probably not go to a musical or a tap dance performance.

But there's not just shows: Coinciding with our solar eclipse, the astronomer Dr. Chris Crowe was also on board. You can also see my separate report on the solar eclipse (link below).

Just now, we received the last evening announcement from our captain, starting as always with these words: 'Good afternoon, ladies and gentlemen. This is the Captain speaking from the bridge.' In his announcement, he again found very warm words for farewell to the 1,301 guests who are now leaving the ship in Barcelona after the solar eclipse journey. He reminded us once more of this very special event that we will all never forget. Of course, he hopes to see us again soon. And I truly believe him!

https://vakantio.de/reisetante/2026-12-august-2029-uhr-sonnfinsternis

Our time in Iceland is coming to an end, tomorrow we are heading east, as in a few days our ferry is first going to the Faroe Islands where we will stay for another week.

In the morning we noticed that the predicted rain had once again not materialized, the country remained dry.

We prepared a proper breakfast and got ready for our trip to La Rochelle. The city has been one of the three most important Atlantic ports of France since the early Middle Ages and at times a stronghold of the Huguenots.

At the reception, we received the bus schedules for the half-hour ride on line 17. The bus was supposed to stop near the campsite at 12:30, and we arrived at 12:20. Just before departure time, a young woman sat down with us in the waiting area; we waited, she waited, it became 12:30, then 12:35, then 12:45. The woman started to nervously tap on her phone, she read, she typed some more, she read again... then she asked us if we were also waiting for the bus, which we confirmed. She then explained to us that she would miss her appointment in La Rochelle because it was a 'Public Holiday' - . So today, not a single bus would run, not now and not in two hours, not at all. We thanked her for the info and looked at each other. Public holiday? That's how we learned that in all of France, 'Assumption Day' is a public holiday. Even if we had made it to the city, everything would have been closed: the harbor towers, the aquarium, the museums; we might have been lucky with the churches.

We returned to Gary and first took a siesta; what else was there to do?

Then Ines researched a bit and found the 'Canal de Marans à la Rochelle.' It was within walking distance, and a few steps by the water wouldn't harm us. Sebb wondered how much water there would be in the current weather conditions since most of the streams and some rivers in the region had dried up by now.

We were surprised because when we reached the canal, it was full of water, and the banks of the rocks into which the canal had been dug were green and lush. The whole ensemble created a stark contrast to the parched fields and gardens of the region and reminded us quite a bit of the Karl-Heine Canal back home.

When the canal was commissioned by Napoleon I in 1805, it was supposed to stretch 44 km from La Rochelle to Niort. But as so often happens, the project was not completed and ended in 1875 after 24 km in Marans, so the planned north-south connection never came to fruition. Rail transport had taken over by then. In the Saint-Léonard Tunnel, we could cool off for a moment before we walked along the bank to the Pont de Belle-Croix.

When we left the artificial valley and made our way back home, the summer temperatures caught up with us again, so we took another shower when we returned to the campsite.

This morning we set off for Colmar. We cycled quickly out of Strasbourg. We admired the houseboats along the canal. The avenue trees provided us with shade. However, the straight stretch along the canal became a bit monotonous over time. The 80 km to Colmar felt quite long. Just as we arrived at the hotel, it started to rain, and a thunderstorm rolled in. We didn't mind; it was a good opportunity to rest a bit. The bad weather quickly gave way to sunshine, and we cycled into the city. The old town with the tanner's district and 'Petite Venise' = little Venice is like something out of a picture book. We were so captivated by this wonderful cityscape.

We leave our dream lodge under bright sunshine. Goodbye rhinos, kudus, oryx, and more...

Today's 'hiking march' takes us into the Namib Naukluft National Park.

Somewhere in the middle of nowhere, an oasis in the desert, is the small town of Solitaire.

At Mc Gregor's Bakery, you can get one of the best apple pies, simply delicious 😋

After we have sufficiently fortified ourselves, we continue over the Kuiseb Pass through the Kuiseb Canyon until we can finally see the Atlantic Ocean after 5 hours of pure travel time.

The thermometer drops from over 30° to a breezy 19°. Finally arrived in Swakopmund, we enjoy one of the last sun rays on our rooftop terrace and dine in what feels like icy temperatures right by the sea 🌊

Good night Namibia 🇳🇦 tomorrow a new adventure awaits

For the past two weeks, I have been following the HW1, the Swabian Jura North Edge Trail, one of the oldest long-distance hiking trails in Germany: always along the edge, the northern steep slope of the Swabian Jura.

I pondered for a long time which paths to choose in Germany from south to north. The classic European long-distance trail E1 runs too far west for me and passes through large cities like Darmstadt and Frankfurt am Main. A sequence of Jacob's paths, for example, would roughly create a south-north connection along the A7 route, which undeniably represents the shortest north-south route through Germany. However, since I am not in a hurry, I decided to chain together scenic long-distance hiking paths, even if it means I will not reach the north of Germany directly. So I initially hiked on quiet, lonely roads under old linden trees, eventually enjoying a beautiful view of the town of Tuttlingen below me in the Danube Valley: a tall church tower, red tiled roofs, large factory and office buildings too: Tuttlingen is mainly home to medical technology. Unfortunately, the town church is locked, I get a delicious apple as a gift in the market, and otherwise, I feel less like I am in a small town in southern Germany and more like I am in a Muslim country, both from the people in the streets and the signs of businesses and restaurants. I then reach the HW1 over the still narrow 'young' Danube. Just as it melodiously strikes 12 o'clock from all the churches in Tuttlingen, I arrive at the 'Hungerkreuz' above the town and look back...

The Swabian Jura (limestone from shells and corals of the Jurassic Sea) stretches roughly 200 km through southern Germany; the hiking trail (from Tuttlingen to Donauwörth) is naturally much longer, as the edge does not form a straight line but rather winds and requires constant ascents and descents due to valleys. At the beginning of my path, the Jura often has a truly ‘alpine character’ with rocky, steep, exposed paths and peaks rising above 1000 m. Now the peaks are 'only' around 750 m high, but the ascents and descents are similar, whether the peaks are at 1000 m and the places in between are at about 650 m, or the valley is around 300 m and the heights around 750 m...

I am repeatedly amazed that it is possible to hike for many kilometers and half days in deep silence and solitude on narrow paths through (mostly beech) forest in densely populated (south) Germany! I actually already know some of these sections of the trail, but I have never hiked the HW1 in its entirety. Of course, it is not just solitary forest paths; all the landscape forms characteristic of karst regions are also present: rock faces and steep edges, caves, holes, and cracks as well as dolines. The edge keeps receding; there are landslides or collapses like the big Mössinger landslide in 1983 - by now, the debris field created back then has largely been greened and covered. Since this is an ancient cultural landscape, the path also leads past numerous castles and ruins, as well as even older traces from Roman and Celtic times, including caves where settlement traces over 30,000 years old have been found.

As it has not properly rained for about two months, and it has been very hot, many areas of the Alb high plateau, which is always quite dry (as karst mountains do not hold water), look autumnal or 'African': the grass is golden-dry, the beeches already colorful or brown, the leaves appear partially burned, evergreen plants, shrubs, and young trees hang their leaves, and the blackberries (which are usually a popular snack in August along forest edges) are hard-dried and mostly inedible. A 'local' explains to me from one of the countless viewpoints along the edge paths that this summer the Alb region is called 'Swabian-Sahara' by everyone... I often wonder what the sheep and goats here still find to eat?

Now and then, thunderstorms brew up due to the heat. It may only rain very locally, but I often do not know whether I will stay dry. Dark clouds, distant and near rumblings, and strong winds arise - then dry leaves dance through the air, and I feel as if I need only hold up my skirt to collect them like in the fairy tale 'Sterntaler'... A few times I also get wet, but it never rains for long. Once I seek shelter in a hunter's hide, but the roof proves to be leaky and rain comes in from the open sides - afterward, roots and stones on the steep forest path are dangerously slippery. Just that evening, I fortunately pass the Nagurfreundehaus Bossler, which is open (a children's holiday camp spreads a cheerful mood and life) and I spontaneously stay: wash myself and my clothes, sleep dry, and after the rain enjoy the wide view into the land towards the three 'Kaiserberge' Hohenstaufen, Rechberg, and Stuifen...

I find sleeping places easily: many shelters and resting areas line the HW1, often also at grill places, where however making fires is strictly prohibited everywhere due to dryness and the risk of forest fires. (One morning, I meet two 'official' workers who are renewing the prohibition sign and barrier at one of the grilling spots - and both are smoking away...) Besides, I also sleep simply outside under the open sky, enjoying the wonderful starry sky, given the largely dry weather. I recently saw the most beautiful, brightest, largest... shooting star I have ever seen. One night I sleep in a 'heavenly bed' in the forest in a trailer located near a forest hut: a flat, dry sleeping area, low 'protective walls' around my bed, trees and starry sky above me; in the morning I watch as the outermost, highest treetops and leaves turn golden in the first sunlight that gradually seeps into the surrounding forest. I go to sleep with the beginning of darkness and often get up before sunrise again, so hardly anyone notices me. I enjoy many beautiful sunsets from elevated viewing benches. In the first few days, they are often partially obscured by many clouds, but no less colorful for that. If it has rained briefly, the mists steam, and gradually the many lights in the valley or in the plain light up. Below the Alb edge, the communities nestle in the valleys or the cities, land areas, industrial zones, and roads spread out in the plain. One night I sleep at the Raichbergturm: at sunset, a young man comes up, takes pictures and films. The sun sinks colorfully behind the forest. The pointed towers of Hohenzollern Castle hide among the tops of the firs - I only discover them from this unfamiliar perspective after some time. Two days before, the silhouette of Hohenzollern Castle first appeared in the distance like a jagged crown. Then I saw the castle on its striking 'witness mountain' again and again, always closer and then again farther, from various perspectives.

As it is August, the breeding and breeding season is over, and the heat and dryness are causing difficulties for the birds (at least that’s what a friendly ornithologist explains to me when I ask), it is unusually quiet in the forest; even at dawn and dusk, there is hardly ever a bird to be heard - at most at noon the lonely cry of a raptor. So I often walk for hours in deep silence and complete solitude through open beech forests. On the wider paths, I encounter cyclists; otherwise, there are larger groups of people only where parking lots and special attractions come together - for example, at Lichtenstein Castle or Hohenstaufen Castle. However, I still have encounters on the solitary paths: at night, a fat toad comes close to my sleeping mat, I hear a fox (or a buck?) barking, someone rustling in the leaves... early in the morning I 'catch' many spider webs that were woven overnight over the narrow passages, during the day I encounter deer, hares, butterflies, dragonflies, tiny frogs (where do they still find moisture?), and above all, countless special tree beings. Often it seems incomprehensible to me how such genuinely powerful trees can thrive on this barren, rocky substrate that does not hold water! When a tree falls and is uprooted, one can see how the roots hold countless bright stones, with hardly any soil in between. Or the entire rock edge seems to be held only by tree roots. Occasionally, I walk - with a slightly uneasy feeling - on a 'overhanging' path: looking back sideways, the path is already undercut. On some exposed rocks, I feel a little uneasy when I step to the edge and look down. There are places where colorful paragliders let themselves be carried over the edge, then slowly gliding into the valley like large bright birds.

Many pleasant encounters arise because I often have to ask for water. There is none on the Alb high plateau, and in the mostly smaller communities through which the hiking path leads, there are often no stores, bakeries, or restaurants left, or surprisingly, many close for business vacations precisely now in August / September! So I get water from many helpful people along my way; and now and then even a cup of coffee... One morning, I pass by a gliding site where a table for more than 20 people is set under a sunshade in front of a club house with lots of colorful cups. I call out laughing to the two young men from the path 'where a lot of coffee is being brewed for so many cups, perhaps there is also a cup for a hiker, right?!' 'of course!' comes the cheerful response, 'come over, we have enough coffee!' Another time, I drink coffee with a complete stranger, whom I spoke to while she was gardening over the fence, on her pleasantly shady terrace, we eat cookies and talk long and animatedly. I love these unpredictable surprises at the roadside! It also happens that I walk by a small farm shop at just the right moment, such as at the St. Johann stud (part of the famous Marbach stud), where an older couple runs a small farm shop and café, open only on Saturday afternoons and Sundays for a few hours - I pass by on Saturday afternoons and enjoy delicious coffee and homemade cake, as well as a long animated conversation with the two operators. Of course, it is often the case that I am just not there during opening hours, which applies not only to farm shops and restaurants but also to churches or observation towers (like the narrow white tower at Teck Castle or the one on the Volkmarsberg, from where no views are possible through the surrounding forest without a tower...) In the very first days, I stand at the highest point of the Swabian Jura, the Lemberg (1020 m) + 30 m tower. From here, on clear days, one can probably see Mont Blanc - at about 300 km distance, that would be 'Germany's greatest sight'. However, at this time of year, I do not see the Alps or even the Stuttgart television tower from anywhere; even the heights of the Black Forest are only vaguely visible in the hazy distance.

The HW1 is generally walked from Donauwörth to Tuttlingen. I meet a couple twice who are coming towards me, also with larger backpacks. Each time they say that I am the only HW1 hiker they have encountered, so there are probably hardly any hikers on this path in the current heat, which, besides lonely nature, also leads through historic half-timbered towns like Owen, Weißenstein, or Bad Urach. The associated famous waterfall is currently hardly a trickle and does not deserve the name waterfall. However, it is sufficient for a very refreshing footbath. At Nebelhöhle, I then descend deep underground: more than 140 steps lead down, and visitors can walk for over half a kilometer through a fairy tale world of stalactites and stalagmites - since nobody else is there at that time, I can even sing in the cave room at the end of the developed area: the acoustics are surprisingly good!

At Hohen Warte (821 m), there is a white tower built as a memorial for the 1500 members of the Swabian Jura Association (SAV) who fell in the First World War. Yesterday a large stone by the roadside was dedicated to a master forester from and to Prince (1855-19??), 'Co-founder of our hiking trails and of the SAV'). At Teck Castle, four coats of arms of the princely families of Zähringen, Teck, and Württemberg, who lived here over the centuries, decorate above the entrance portal and then in 1954 to the SAV... In Weißenstein and Lauterburg, there are over 100-year-old colorfully decorated signposts of the HW1. Such signs along the path repeatedly remind me that the hiking network that crisscrosses our country, and which seems so familiar to us, especially here in the south, as if it belongs to the landscape, is not that old, and that it has been laid out, maintained, and cared for by many people, mostly on a voluntary basis. The SAV was founded in 1888 and is still the largest German and European hiking association. I think it deserves a larger donation and I intend to make that a firm resolution. The HW1 is consistently very well and reliably marked with a red triangle.

A few days ago, I was able to welcome my beloved hiking companion at the train station in Gingen an der Fils - as expected with a proper delay from Deutsche Bahn... He has been accompanying me for about three weeks now, which is beautiful but also means quite an adjustment after many months and more than 3200 kilometers alone. First of all, the daily distances will shorten because it would be too much to ask to start at daily 25-30 km right away in this heat. Moreover, he actually brought a sleeping bag that is far too thin since it fortunately cools down at night on some heights (we even slept on the first night near a wind turbine testing facility - so a windy corner. So, three days ago, a trip by bus to the beautiful Staufer city of Schwäbisch Gmünd was essential to buy something warm... Last night, we found shelter in a forest kindergarten, whose nice wooden house is also made available to hikers... We have now arrived in Bopfingen and plan to continue hiking on the Franconian Way from Harburg (Swabia). Rowan trees and rose hips are already turning red, sloes are blue, elderberries black, and I already saw the first delicate pink autumn crocus: 'summer will soon be over'...

That's it - we wrapped up our road trip through Canada and Alaska this week. Thanks to a spontaneous idea, we had the best road trip ever! We covered over 9,000 kilometers in 8 weeks. And every single kilometer was worth it. The wildlife completely blew us away; we really didn't expect it, and Alaska convinced us with its massive glaciers and mountains. The vastness of Canada and Alaska is something we cannot express in words or pictures.

We have quite a bit to process, and we have plenty of time for that ;-)

But perhaps in order: Our week started in Tombstone National Park and the drive towards Whitehorse. On the way, we stopped at Moose Creek Territorial Park and stretched our legs. We spent the night in Pelly Crossing, where the community offers a free campsite, as well as showers for 2 CAD. That's all it takes to convince us.

The next morning, we dropped by the Culture Center and learned a bit about the history of the First Nations People of the region.

Next, we headed to the Five Finger Rapids and then to Carmacks. Here, we stretched our legs on the Ridge Trail.

Back in Whitehorse, we ran some errands and took a few things to our new room at the resort. Since we still had a bit of time before work started, we only briefly visited the city. Julian had training the next morning for one of the tours he would be leading.

Then we set off again to enjoy the last few days. We notice that the past weeks have really taken a toll on us, and we look forward to being in one place for a bit longer, but it’s not quite time for that yet ;-)

In fact, we went back to Alaska once more. There is a small tip in southern Alaska that can only be reached through Yukon and is cut off from the rest of Alaska.

In Haines, there is the highest density of Bald Eagles worldwide, and in the fall, they have the Bald Eagle Festival when the eagles gather and thousands are in the area.

Additionally, Haines has salmon that need to travel only a short 2-kilometer river to spawn in Chilkoot Lake. There is a weir on the river where the salmon are counted. Because the salmon can only pass through one spot in the river, it repeatedly attracts bears to the weir and the river.

This time, we set up our camp at a Recreation Site for 20 USD per night because we could walk 10 minutes to the weir from there. Since it's so warm during the day, bears seem to frequent the area in the morning and evening. Therefore, we headed out on the first evening and took our observation post at the weir.

And indeed: a Grizzly mama and her 4 two-year-old cubs came to the river. The mama tried to catch salmon, but the cubs were being mischief-makers and jumped into the river at the wrong spot. The current swept them away, and the mama had to chase her little ones and bring them back. It was such a wonderful sight to see the bears in the river, with only their heads showing above the water.

The bears moved on, and we returned to our campsite. Right next to the campground, there is a swimming area. And there, the bears were waiting for us ;-) The cubs were on the dock while the mama swam in the water. Behind them was the sunset behind the mountains. You really can't imagine a more beautiful panorama! The grizzlies seemed completely unbothered by the presence of humans, and while the mama swam in the lake, the cubs settled in the bushes and enjoyed munching on plants. Nothing seemed to disturb them.

The first day in Haines couldn’t have gone better!

We were hooked and set off the next morning at 6:30 AM, waiting at the weir for about 2 hours - unfortunately, it was uneventful.

Around noon, we set off again, and indeed, the same grizzly family showed up once more. The cubs were at the weir while the mama was in the water. She then brought the caught salmon up to the weir, and the cubs fetched them, and then they feasted.

Then, they all left the weir together, and the last salmon was eaten on the road. The Bald Eagles, of course, noticed this right away, and one flew down right next to the Grizzly mama onto the road to grab its share.

We were only about 30 meters away and felt like we were watching a wildlife documentary.

Completely exhausted, we spent the hot afternoon by the lake. Unfortunately, the lake is far too cold for swimming.

Four days ago, we booked the ferry from Haines to Skagway to save several hundred kilometers on the way to Whitehorse. On Saturday, we decided at the last minute to ask if we could go directly. And it actually worked. That’s why we’re already back in Yukon and will be driving the last kilometers today, going shopping, and fully moving into our room.

In the upcoming days, the resort will be fully prepared for guests. The first guests will arrive on Thursday.

Everything about the resort, our room, and the work will be shared in the coming weeks :-)

Currently, there are massive wildfires in BC. More than 20,000 people were evacuated this week. The situation has eased a bit on Friday, and apparently, this year is not a severe fire year. Let's hope it stays that way.

Since we are over 2,000 kilometers away, we don't notice anything. Not even any smoke.

The Italian breakfast, however, was completely different from what we know. Unfortunately, there was no Kaiserschmarrn, which left me a bit puzzled for a moment. But the location was really beautiful. I almost suspect that the price was more about the view than the breakfast.

After brunch, we headed back. Fingers crossed and with a small prayer or two that the traffic would leave us in peace.

And because my girlfriend thinks ahead, we had eye patches for the drive. A brilliant idea, as it provided a bit of wellness in the car, and we rolled back toward Zurich quite relaxed.

Planning a trip to Islamabad for the first time? This guide explores some of the best things to do and places to visit in Pakistan’s beautiful capital city. From the stunning views of Margalla Hills and the peaceful surroundings of Faisal Mosque to the cultural experience of Lok Virsa Museum and the lively atmosphere of Saidpur Village, Islamabad offers something for every type of traveler. The city is known for its clean streets, greenery, scenic landscapes, relaxing environment, and unique combination of modern attractions and traditional culture. Whether you are traveling with family, friends, or exploring the city on your own, spending a few extra days in Islamabad allows you to experience much more than just its famous landmarks. This guide also highlights local food, shopping areas, outdoor activities, and useful travel tips to help first-time visitors plan a comfortable and memorable stay.

Although there are indeed many elephants here in Chobe and throughout Botswana, the Africa map is truly alarming: over the last 250 years, the habitat of elephants in Africa has been reduced by nearly 70 percent.

This also gives the ongoing destruction of vegetation, which often catches my eye, a different significance. There aren't simply "too many elephants." Rather, in some regions, a very high number of animals concentrate on a progressively limited and fragmented habitat. Moreover, climate change, with heat and longer dry periods, is making water and food scarcer. When there is less grass available, elephants increasingly rely on trees and shrubs.

The statement from our taxi driver, "Elephants destroy everything," suddenly appears in a different light. It also reflects a conflict between humans and animals that has even been given a name here: HEC – Human-Elephant Conflict.

During our drives on land and water, we also passed by strictly secured anti-poaching areas. For their own protection, the guide explains, entry and photography are forbidden there. The anti-poaching units must protect their locations, work methods, and likely also their identity or movements. Poaching remains a significant problem.

We read on the boards today that over the past 15 years, around 30,000 African elephants have been killed illegally each year for their ivory – an average of more than 82 per day. The international commercial ivory trade has been largely banned since 1989 by CITES, yet the illegal trade continues.

Thus, the initially quite simple image of the worthy-of-protection elephant becomes rather complex: climate change, diminishing and fragmented habitats, conflicts between humans and elephants, and poaching are interconnected.

Of course, much of this also applies to numerous other large and small species whose habitats are under pressure.

And while we sometimes feel that elephants are simply everywhere here in Chobe, the map shows how extraordinary this impression actually is. 🐘

Tomorrow, we leave Chobe and fly with a small plane to the Okavango Delta. The weather seems to want to be kind to me: I am a bit nervous and I don't really care for additional turbulence. I'm soooo excited 🤩

The road from Bansal in the northwest of the island of Lombok to Mataram leads through hilly foothills that extend down to the sea. Monkeys sit on the guardrails nibbling on something. After three nights in Mataram, I continue south on the island on July 17, 2026. The landscape is now becoming flatter; it goes through rice fields, villages, and past hills that lie dry and brown under the blazing sun.

The most important holiday resort on the southern coast is Kuta, and since there is a place of the same name in Bali, I almost booked my accommodation on the wrong island.

Strong contrasts

In southern Lombok, the contrast between traditional ways of life and tourist development is particularly striking. Before we arrive in Kuta, we visit Desa Adat Sade. Sade is a traditional Sasak village, and because it is located on the main road between the airport and the resort of Kuta, tourists often bump into each other here.

The Sasak are the indigenous majority population of Lombok and maintain a culture that combines the predominant Sunni Islam – a significant contrast to the Hindu-influenced neighboring island of Bali – with older Adat traditions.

Immediately, the experiences from the morning come up. Some say that compared to the various other safaris they've taken, that was real ‘mass tourism’.

And yes: My impression of the morning's ‘drive game’ with 50 to 100 jeeps, radio contact, and the collective chase for the recently spotted lions was indeed similar.

As we quietly steer the boat to the spots where our guide suspects or has spotted animals, I ponder about it. Also about supply and demand. If we all want to go on safaris – some of us not just one – then we are ultimately creating the demand that is responded to with corresponding offers. Complaining about the many other tourists while sitting right among them is, at the very least, a small contradiction. 🤔

On the Chobe River, everything is calmer and slower. We have much more time to actually observe the animals, watch their movements, and perceive their behavior. We only continue once everyone has taken their shots – or can no longer handle the proximity of the crocodile. 🫣

And so some of the most beautiful films and photos are created.

Our local guide knows the wildlife impressively well and tells us that he has been in this profession for over ten years and still enjoys it. When we land again after the tour, he thanks us for supporting tourism in Botswana and thereby securing his livelihood.

The statement sticks with us.

Of course, he doesn't answer the question of how much tourism nature and animals can withstand. But he adds another perspective to it. All those boats, jeeps, and lodges indeed involve people and their jobs.

Perhaps the question isn’t whether tourism is good or bad. But rather how much of it a place can bear – and how we want to travel when we are part of it ourselves.

The gentleman who brings us dinner with a beaming smile last night tells us that often an owl flies under the high, open roof of the lodge in the evening. Apparently, the cats sometimes benefit from her catch.

We have already discovered two of them. One had just finished her dinner parallel to us – poor mouse. 🐭🤷‍♀️

One of the cats is missing the tip of an ear. My sympathy is immediately aroused: “Oh, poor thing…” – and already in my mind, I create notions of ‘abandonment’ and neglect.

Then we learn that she is actually the favorite cat of our waiter. And the missing ear tip? Not the result of a hard life, but rather the vet's mark that the cat has been spayed.

I am impressed – and feel a little shy about my hasty story of the neglected African cat. 🙈

Another lesson learned: Not everything that looks like neglect to us is actually neglect.

And while I’m writing this entry, we suddenly hear a noise and look up in search of the tornado.

But it’s just a rolling suitcase behind us. 😂

Africa changes us… 😉

Quickly getting rolls from the local bakery and having a cozy breakfast with the best view.🥖🥐

Then we briefly went into town for some Iceland sweaters.🧶🪡

After that, we headed to Thingvellir National Park because we wanted to do some hiking. However, one must share the experiences in the Reykjavik metropolitan area with many others. Quite busy, overwhelming😖

So just a short round and quickly away.🏎

But we couldn't leave Iceland without a little hike.😉

We then wandered again along the steaming earth in the geothermal area of Rekjaladur.

Just crazy.

To conclude, we enjoyed a delicious lamb burger🐑🍔 at the food truck, just like two weeks ago at the start. He even recognized us again.😄

The Blue Lagoon was then the endpoint of our wonderful Iceland trip.

Tomorrow we head back to warmth.🇩🇪

What remains are unforgettable impressions of a country that can truly take your breath away.

But it is also not shy when it comes to your wallet.🤑

We had a great time together, which is truly priceless.😎

We love each other and our Jimny too.🥰😍

Thanks for staying tuned.

Dine🥰Jeff

Somewhere between Mondsee and Attersee, we left the car and walked on foot up towards the Kienbergerhütte. The view up there was once again absolutely stunning. Unfortunately, the way back was quite slippery, which meant a few of us ended up unintentionally on our backsides.

After getting back down, we went for a swim in Mondsee. And when the suggestion came up to go have ice cream, that was about the quickest unanimous decision of the whole day. An ice cream sundae with fruits and a cinnamon wafer, and with my well-known obsession for cinnamon, it was absolutely amazing for me.

Afterwards, we needed a bit of chill time before we got dressed up for dinner. And that’s when the real fun started. Arriving at the restaurant Das Bräu by the beautiful boutique hotel Aichinger, with a Michelin star and everything, we had to realize that we hadn’t actually made a reservation there. A few villages over, there was a restaurant with a very similar name, and that was where our reservation was located.

At that point, driving to the other restaurant was obviously no longer an option. Our reservation was a thing of the past, and we found ourselves without a table on a Saturday night, which is generally the complete opposite of relaxing.

Somehow, however, we ended up getting lucky. We simply walked down to the main street in Nußdorf am Attersee and found a restaurant that had a table for us more or less right away. After a venison schnitzel with potato salad, we rolled home quite satisfied and thoroughly full.

Today’s departure at 8 am to the Sossusvlei (dune landscape - UNESCO World Heritage Site)

We somehow ended up being the last ones still at the camp. When is the rest getting up? 🤔🥱

Upon arrival, our first stop was at Dune 45. It was already really tall, we thought, and in the cool morning it was still easy to climb 🧗‍♀️

Until we faced 'Big Daddy' in front of us (about 380m). And we are really supposed to climb that!?

After about 2/3 of the climb, our strength started to flag 🫠, and it had also gotten quite warm by now 🥵 (around 30 °C). So, the family council decided to descend into the Deadvlei, except for Leonidas, who absolutely wanted to reach the summit. He did it, incredible 👏

Through the dead forest, we made our way back to the shuttle parking lot, where our driver took us back to our car. The last meters into the Sossusvlei need to be traversed on quite sandy paths. So, we preferred to use the shuttle bus. The rides were almost comparable to a roller coaster 🎢

To finish, we drove to Sesriem Canyon and rejoiced in the late afternoon as we began our journey back to our dream lodge after an exciting, hot, and sandy day.

And as if we hadn’t already experienced countless highlights today, a herd of rhinos 🦏 was at our waterhole as we walked to dinner. Simply priceless, what a wonderful day 🤩

Last night, after cycling 70 km and spending several hours on the train, Margit and I arrived safely in Strasbourg. After an unintentional city tour by bike, 'because I entered the wrong address in Komoot', we finally found the right hotel, Mercure Centre. The intense heat, especially in the city, was a bit challenging for us. After a good dinner and some cool drinks, we revived our spirits. This morning, right after breakfast, we cycled straight to the European Parliament. Finding the right hotel for our self-guided trip in 2027 proved to be a bit cumbersome. The cathedral and a visit to the French quarter 'Petit France' are truly special. We explored the new town aboard a little tourist train. In the evening, we had a boat tour of the city on the agenda. The ride through the canals with the locks thrilled us.

For the weekend, we had reserved a real campsite near La Rochelle. Laundry had to be done, and showering and washing hair were also on the agenda.

So we casually cruised from one roundabout to the next at 80 km/h along the country road.

Sebb was feeling a bit better again, yet we made a stop at a local 'pharmacy' and bought cough syrup. It felt as if we were mystery shoppers.

As we headed toward the reserved spot in the afternoon, we noticed how many cars, especially campers, were coming towards us. Perhaps the high season was already tapering off?

The campsite was a very good choice. The facilities were top-notch, the staff was very friendly, and once they realized that we were not native speakers, they automatically switched to English. (How are you supposed to improve your French that way?)

We first took care of the essentials: laundry and then shower. While our clothes dried on the line, which happened pretty quickly in just under 40 degrees, we focused on dinner and treated ourselves to something from the current food truck. 

Today in Bled I was with Anna by the lake and was at least able to make a little of the day.

Tomorrow we’re heading to Salzburg and then the day after tomorrow back to Cologne. I'm also looking forward to being home again.

Meeting for the Early Morning Game Drive. Coffee, tea, and muffins to fend off sleep – and then one safari jeep after another arrives.

After a short drive, we reach Chobe National Park. There are even more cars waiting. Our guide tells us that between six and nine in the morning, 50 to 100 jeeps cruise through the savanna to show tourists – and also local school classes – as much of the wildlife as possible.

Maybe that’s why it’s called a Game Drive: the drivers communicate via radio and seem to see it as a personal challenge to spot the most exciting animals first. 😄

It’s certainly fun to be bundled up by the driver with blankets and rocked against the morning driving wind through the savanna.

And the drivers know their stuff. While hunting for the kings of the animals, the other residents are almost casually observed: giraffes, elephants, hippos 🦛😉, buffalo, jackals, monkeys, various species of antelopes, and plenty of birds.

The whole time I can’t help but think of the Serengeti Park in Lower Saxony. Back then, I had taken a jeep tour with my relatively small children and wondered why it had to be so dreadfully shaky.

Today I know: it really is like that in reality. 😂

We learn a lot. For example, according to our guide, hippos are responsible for particularly many deadly encounters with humans. Buffalos should definitely not be underestimated – they are called Widowmakers for a reason. And lions? They come after them in his ranking.

Along the way, we see skulls and bones of elephants and buffalos. Some fell prey to other animals, others died of natural causes. Meanwhile, large herds of puku antelopes pass through the landscape, and we spot kudus – so the lions are taken care of.

These three hours of driving through the savanna of Botswana are somehow overwhelming.

And still, I find myself grappling with a somewhat mixed feeling. So many jeeps driving through the national park in search of the next animals. I have to remind myself in between that the animals here have no fences and no boundaries and can escape the whole commotion at any time.

And someday the jeeps might also run on electricity … 🥴

Patient waiting and quiet animal watching – the kind of thing I had previously associated with “safari” – was certainly not on today’s agenda.

And yet, I am very glad that these national parks exist. And for the opportunity to see with my own eyes how here lives and interacts with each other.

Because only what we know, we can also protect.

And that will probably remain a balancing act: between tourism – yes, also ours 🥴 –, economic, and conservation interests.

We can only distinguish them by the license plates of their cars, as all the languages are foreign to us. When listening, we sometimes believe we can differentiate between various language rhythms.

We must confess that before our trip, we knew almost nothing about the three Baltic states. Yes, a bit of history, but otherwise?

No Baltic personalities come to mind for us, except for the Estonian politician Kaja Kallas, because she appears in our news broadcasts warning about Putin, and the Latvian striker from Arminia, who mostly sits on the bench. Even with street names or monuments, we haven’t yet had a moment where we say 'oh yes, that one.'

So, in terms of education, quite a disaster! How can that be?

This time, a girls' weekend was on the agenda. The plan was to visit a friend who lives at Attersee. The GPS indicated five and a half hours from Zurich, which sounded manageable at first. However, with the electric car, it turned out to be a bit longer.

We had to stop twice along the way to charge and planned for about half an hour each time. While this might sound like lost time in theory, we simply turned it into breaks. Because at some point, you just need to take a break, especially when your stomach starts to growl. And of course, we couldn't miss out on Oat Kings.

We left at 5:45 AM. Way too early. But this meant we skillfully avoided all the rush hour traffic and every jam, which somewhat justified the early start.

Once we arrived in Seewalchen at Attersee, we first had lunch and, above all, chatted a lot. We hadn’t seen each other in ages, so there was plenty to catch up on.

After that, we went swimming in Attersee and then out for a drink. For the aperitif, we had pizza at Brooklyn Bay, which is completely designed in a beach style. The perfect mix of relaxed and a bit of vacation vibe.

To end the day, we then changed into evening attire and went to Das Attersee for the Schibiza. A place where you can eat, drink, and party. Top-notch people-watching once again. 

The great spectacle actually began the day before. Dr. Chris Crowe, astronomy expert from the renowned Harrow School in London, prepared us with a scientific yet humorous lecture. This man travels professionally from one eclipse to the next and is a walking encyclopedia of astronomy. More on him later.

He first made us aware of how fortunate we are cosmically: Only because our moon is exactly the right size and at the perfect distance from the Earth and the sun, total solar eclipses even occur. No other planet in our solar system has this constellation.

Second factor of luck: the weather. Captain Martyn Sharples analyzed the meteorological data the day before and promised us a sky 98% free of clouds. “Fingers crossed,” he said as he departed. On the evening of the eclipse, he maneuvered the ship far away from the Spanish coast to avoid any artificial light pollution.

At around 7:00 PM, it was time for everyone to gather on Deck 9. We managed to snag a few chairs early on. Right on time at 7:35 PM, the moon gradually began to consume the sun until only a thin, glowing crescent was left. The only catch: the shipping company had distributed only one eclipse glasses per cabin. A spontaneous purchase during our stop in Tarragona was completely hopeless.

This backfired when it came to photography. Smartphones desperately need this filter in front of the lens; otherwise, the sensor captures only blinding white. In our desperation, we held the flimsy cardboard glasses alternately in front of the phone. It was laborious!

Then the clock struck 8:29 PM. A collective cheer erupted. The totality. Unfortunately, just for that one, damn short minute. Barely had one grasped the natural spectacle, when the “Diamond Ring” flashed on the other side of the moon—the famous diamond ring effect marking the end of the darkness.

Dr. Crowe advised us to briefly take our eyes off the sun during the totality and look around. Indeed, we experienced a fascinating 360-degree sunset across the entire horizon in the middle of the sea.

For those back home, the astronomer gave us a curious tip for the partial eclipse the day before: Take a completely ordinary kitchen strainer. If held so that the sunlight passes through, the strainer casts not round dots, but hundreds of tiny crescent moons as shadows on the ground for a few seconds.

While our friends at home also had excellent weather but only a partial eclipse, the complete eclipse stretched only in a narrow strip over Iceland, then northern Spain all the way to Mallorca.

We are somewhat satisfied with our smartphone photos, but there's definitely potential for more. Therefore, we declared the 2026 solar eclipse a dress rehearsal. Next year comes the must: On August 2, 2027, the longest solar eclipse of the century awaits us with an epic six minutes of totality, as the moon will come even closer to the Earth then. We've already booked the matching cruise for it.

The astronomical program in August continued. Like every summer, the Earth crossed the path of the Perseid meteors. Dr. Crowe and the ship's crew had a great idea for this: On August 13, 2026, at 11:00 PM, the captain turned off the lighting on the entire upper deck. Countless passengers secured deck chairs and stared into the darkness while our expert explained the constellations with an extremely powerful astronomy laser pointer.

We saw fewer shooting stars than hoped at the end, but it was enough for a few wishes to the night sky. The best part was the feeling: The Queen Victoria lay so still in the water like a rooftop. After thirty magical minutes, unfortunately, the lights came back on on deck.

The expert remained diligent. A day later, he invited us to the next lecture in the ship's theater. As an introduction, he showed photos of the solar eclipse that passengers had sent him via email, followed by his own shots and the corresponding Photoshop tricks. In the meantime, we learned a lot about sunspots and nuclear fusion, the primal force of the sun that humanity has been unsuccessfully attempting to replicate for decades.

However, the best part about Dr. Crowe were his personal anecdotes in the Q&A sessions. This man is a fantastic entertainer. As a passionate Star-Trek fan, he shared stories of how he spent a lot of money in his youth to spend time with the actors and the son of the show's creator, Gene Roddenberry.

His true idol, however, was and is Stephen Hawking. As a student and later a doctoral candidate, he spent a lot of time with the world-famous physicist. He humorously recounted Hawking's secret language: Since the genius never turned off his speech computer even while eating instant noodles, the system continuously typed out quirky word creations and sounds through his chewing movements.

To conclude, there was a nice story about Pluto. According to Dr. Crowe, it is proven that Pluto is a cosmic outsider. While the inner planets of our system are rocky and the outer ones pure gas giants, Pluto breaks all the rules: it is rocky, has a completely tilted orbit, and a totally different composition. Dr. Crowe's wonderful formulation: Pluto was simply adopted by us after the collapse of its original home solar system and millions of years of loneliness.

What one can learn on such a cruise!

Blue sky, sunshine, perfect visibility.🌞

So let's get out of bed, check out, and quickly head to the bakery.🥨☕️

3 hours to the ferry, enough time to explore the island's hotspots. The paths are short.🔙🔚🔝

We weren't mistaken. In sunny weather, impressive views await.😯

First, we headed back up to the house volcano🌋 Eldfell. What a view and what a wind up there.🌬🌬🌬

Then we went down to another spot on the other side (where the puffins live).

Equally grand views.🌞☀️

Vestmannaeyjar didn't want to let yesterday's foggy day stand. Luckily.🫶

On time at 1 PM, the ferry then departed, and we enjoyed a fabulous crossing on the sun deck. Sea & sky blue🌊. Behind us the Westman Islands, and in front of us the impressive south coast of Iceland. It felt almost like a cruise.

Amazing!😎

The Sejalandsfoss is incredibly conveniently located from the ferry port and is one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland.

So let's go!🤩

You can walk behind it.

A beautiful spectacle.

The neighboring Gljúfrabúi is also not to be underestimated, cascading hidden in a gorge.

On the way, we enjoyed an Icelandic dinner in Selfoss, and then it was only 100 km back to Reykjavik.

It's hard to believe that we've been on the road for almost 2 weeks, having circled the island.🇮🇸🫡 Great experiences in tow.

Now we're in an apartment on the 11th floor of a high-rise with the best panoramic view of the city.🌆

Let's see what we do tomorrow.

In the evening, we're definitely going back to the Blue Lagoon.🏊🏼‍♀️🏊🏻

Stay tuned, you sweating Central Europeans!

Dine❤️ Jeff

Rejuvenated, our first stop is a tire service in Mariental. Fortunately, everything went smoothly 😅

With 5 driving tires and a full tank, we head west through endless expanses, straight ahead (it really was) to the small town of Marienhöhe. After that, the road got bumpy, and our off-road adventure begins.

Upon arriving at our dream accommodation, we're greeted by a few antelopes 🦌 right in front of our lodge 🤩

Later at dinner, we can observe a herd of wildebeests at the waterhole. That was truly amazing. Now we hope to spot the 'rhinos' 🦏 during our stay.

But now it's time to sleep quickly, as we head to Sossusvlei early tomorrow 🏜

For Sebb, the past night was not a recovery. When the chills came in the evening, we already knew that the rest of the night would be uncomfortable. So he suffered through the night, trying to boil the germs of his cold away. In the morning, he was feeling correspondingly worse.

Ines extended our parking ticket at the machine for 24 hours, as we wouldn't be able to drive today.

And while one of them just dragged himself between the bed and the sleeping pad under the trees, lying or reading here and there, and was otherwise unable to do much, the other took care of fresh tea, meals, and especially her sick husband.

In the evening, he went to bed early, and both were optimistic that tomorrow would be a bit more normal again.

We are back in Germany and making a last stop in my hometown, where I was born 61 years ago in Rostock.

This year, the Hanse Sail takes place here from August 6 to August 9, so we booked in advance at the Baltic Camping and Leisure Park in Markgrafenheide. It is a very large and naturally preserved campsite, where you might have to search for your plot among all the tall trees and maneuver your RV quite a bit. So it's quite natural😉! We pay 45 euros for the night. The site is nice, and the staff is friendly and helpful. There are two restaurants, a self-service and a more or less Italian one, plus a café. The site even has its own cinema, which is fun for the kids. Several large playgrounds are available, making it very family-friendly; therefore, you see many families here! They also have a spa area with indoor and outdoor pools. The sanitary facilities are somewhat limited considering the size of the site, which can lead to queues and waiting times during peak hours. There is always staff on site for cleanliness during the day, which is very positive.

The transport connection to Warnemünde is also good; it's 5 km to the Hohe Düne ferry, and buses run every hour. With the S-Bahn, you can reach Rostock in 20 minutes, and it runs every 10 minutes. If you prefer a leisurely ride, you can take the paddleboat named Schnatermann through the Rostocker Heide to Warnemünde; it takes about 10 minutes to the harbor, and the docking point in Warnemünde is at the old stream.

There are two cozy local establishments near the campsite where you can eat delicious food, especially if you like fish.

I believe I don't need to say anything about Rostock and Warnemünde; these places, along with the entire Baltic Sea, are always worth a visit, even if it's quite crowded and expensive during the Hanse Sail. But just make your own impression.

On our last day in Denmark, we stop in Gedser, and tomorrow we will take the ferry back to Germany. There, we will then enjoy 5 days in Rostock and Warnemünde for the Hanse Sail. We have reserved a parking space in Markgrafenheide.

Gedser is a small, quiet place at the southern tip of Denmark and is mainly known as a ferry port for the crossing to and from Rostock. We are parked at the marina parking area. The parking space is adequate; there is electricity and a sanitary building with toilets and showers, for which a chip card is required that can be obtained from a vending machine and loaded with money. The parking fee is also paid at the vending machine. Any unused money is easily refunded by the machine upon card return. The sanitary facilities were clean, and we cannot confirm the partly negative reviews from the internet. There is also a restaurant for dinner just around the corner. Electricity is included; we paid a total of nearly 30 euros for the night.

I must mention an absolute must for railway fans and friends of the Olsen Gang. There is a museum of a special kind in Gedser, the Remise. Here, you can admire many old locomotives and see 'Det Gule Palae', the famous signal box from 'The Olsen Gang Puts the Train on Track'. Since we also followed in the footsteps of the Olsen Gang on our tour, this was a must!

1. First, the cars drive through the disinfection bath, while we walk through it on foot.
2. Health check: show vaccination card and have our temperature measured.
3. Passport control – now we are officially allowed to enter Botswana.
4. And finally, the soles of our shoes are disinfected: please dip once. 😄

As soon as we are in the country, we see the first elephants from the bus. 🐘

Our lodge is located right by the Chobe River – and the warning notice in the hotel room makes it clear that we have truly arrived in Africa: Large crocodiles like to lie on the riverbank, warthogs and elephants occasionally stop by the reception, and at night, hippos graze on the lawn in front of the rooms. Please use a flashlight and keep your distance. 😳

However, you don't even have to leave the room to see the first wildlife.

In the garden, warthogs, mongooses, and monkeys roam together across the lawn. A snake briefly adds some excitement – and while having coffee, a crocodile can be spotted lounging by the Chobe riverbank. ☕️🐊

And if you look far across the river, you can actually see a whole herd of elephants. 🐘🐘🐘

I think we are officially on safari now. 😍

And then suddenly there’s a giraffe by the roadside. 🦒
However, our speed isn't enough for a photo – by the time the phone is ready, the giraffe has already passed us. 😂

The further we drive, the more we notice the landscape itself. Many trees are damaged, branches broken, trunks stripped of bark, some trees completely toppled. Traces of elephants, as we learn. 🐘 They don't just eat leaves and twigs, but break branches and peel bark – and can thus completely change landscapes. What initially looks like destruction to us is likely part of the natural dynamics of the savannah. However, with a very large elephant population, the impact becomes unmistakable.

Fenced fields keep appearing at the roadside. And suddenly wildlife protection takes on another aspect: For us, elephants are fascinating creatures that must be protected at all costs. For the people who live here, whose fields and crops are directly affected, living alongside them means restrictions and probably very real damage.

And I can't help but think of our discussions at home about a few wolves. The world expects Africa to protect its elephants, lions, and other wildlife – and for the people here to learn to live with them.

That sounds easy to demand from a safe distance.

How much wilderness are we actually willing to endure when it takes place right at our own doorstep? 🤔

However, its importance lies in its age, as salt was already being mined here 2600 years ago during the Celtic period. This brings us to the local Celtic Museum. Although it is currently under renovation, the exhibits are still worth seeing, even if presented without spectacular displays, simply accompanied by printed explanations. You can also find additional information in a user-friendly app.

So breakfast at the delicious island baker.🥨🥐☕️

And it didn’t rain today.🥳

However, it was foggy, barely allowing us to glimpse the island's beauty. 

But the coastal hike in the fog was also unique. 

What made it special were the sweet puffins. We had seen them in Iceland before, but here they were really in flocks along the coast. Incredibly many...

In 2 weeks we’ll be off to the sea until April.🌊

We ended up walking 13km today.

Reason enough to thoroughly test everything at Brothers Brewery.🍺

Food is ordered via QR code from the Italian place next door. 

Delicious pizza and beer.😋😋

Around 10 PM, we took another hike up to the Eldfell volcano above the roofs of the town.

It erupted in 1973 and destroyed large parts of the town.🌋

A lovely little island, must be amazing with sunshine and visibility.

We’ll be here until 1 PM tomorrow.

Stay tuned!

Jeff😶‍🌫️Dine

The city is absolutely worth seeing. There is access to a sandy beach with an elevator leading up to the city. At the top, you can gaze down at the beach from what is called the balcony. If you turn around to face the city, you can stroll leisurely along the Ramblas. The Ramblas is a wide street with a spacious pedestrian zone in the middle and only narrow lanes for cars on either side. Various shops invite you to shop and there are benches for resting. While walking, you will also encounter the famous monument of the human pyramid. After all, Tarragona is one of the main places for this tradition. 

But there is also a wealth of culture awaiting the inquisitive. For example, you can marvel at the Roman heritage of the city, such as the amphitheater with a view of the sea and the remains of the ancient Roman circus (Circo Romano). Of course, almost every time the ground is broken, something old is uncovered. The city of Tarragona actually carries the Roman name in its title, as the Roman name was Tarraco, officially Colonia Iulia Urbs Triumphalis Tarraco. Even Emperor Augustus planned his campaigns from here between 27 and 25 BC and lived in the city. During our tour, we also admired the impressive fortifications, for which the 5 Euros entry fee is absolutely worth it. 

Even the beautiful cathedral of Tarragona stands on Roman foundations. In one room of the cathedral, you can even admire excavation parts of it. But the cathedral has so much more to offer. The 12 Euros entrance fee for adults is well invested. I could have easily taken 1,000 pictures here, as extensive are the spaces and the many treasures inside and out. A very special surprise awaited us in the outdoor area of the complex, where we saw two live turtles. At first, we thought they were decorations, and it was really cute how they basked in the sun, which brought us great joy. One single day is actually not enough to explore everything. 

Because of all this, Tarragona received the status of UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000 for the spectacular “Archaeological Ensemble of Tarraco.” 

So a visit is definitely worthwhile, just don’t all come at once, because as mentioned, who needs tourist crowds?

Mileage: 159277

It's never exactly clear where you catch something, and Sebb experienced the same. In the evening, he struggled with tingling in his nose and throat, and then suddenly at 3:00 AM, he had a headache on the right side, completely blocked nose, and a swollen throat. Great! Thankfully, there’s Ibuprofen and nasal spray, which helped him get through the day.

The drive from Nantes back to the coast was a must today, as inland temperatures rose relentlessly towards 40 degrees. So, we split the 100 kilometers into two stages and stopped at a well-air-conditioned supermarket in between to stock up on supplies.

After nearly 2 hours, we reached today's destination. A parking spot just a few meters from the beach.

We made our obligatory visit to the quite small beach; however, we cut it short after 30 minutes. For Sebb, the strong sun and the many people became too much, and there was no thought of shade here. So, we went back to the camper van and under the trees that provided some shade.

After dinner, we took the opportunity to observe the solar eclipse. At our location, it wasn't quite full, so at the time of maximum coverage, a small crescent was still visible in the sky. However, the Perseids announced for that evening did not make an appearance.

On the stop to our accommodation, we drove to the Hardap Dam including a wildlife resort.

Unfortunately, there were plenty of trees and rocks and few animals, which immediately caused us a flat tire 🤬

Finally arrived at the Kalahari Anib Lodge and immediately went on a sundowner safari. A great experience 🌅

"Born, bred and buttered" in the town of Victoria Falls, as he puts it, he can still remember how tranquil the place must have been with just 2,000 inhabitants. Today about 40,000 people live here, most of them relying on tourism – and they greet us just as warmly.

A herd of around 50 elephants is also part of the town and is known to cross the streets from time to time. However, today we only see their droppings. 😉

At the entrance to the Victoria Falls, there are not only souvenirs but of course also raincoats. Naturally, we are supposed to buy these from King Bambino’s friend Ben. Unfortunately, we have our own with us – well prepared as we are. 😉

As it turns out, the rainforest at the edge of the falls lives up to its name: Due to the massive spray, it is indeed raining quite heavily here.

At the same time, it is slowly getting warmer. We still stay in long sleeves because we don’t want to rely only on the prophylactic malaria pills and Anti-Bite Tropics. Stuffy? 😇

Initially, it’s so foggy that you can hardly recognize the dimensions of this wonder of the world. But as the designated tour progresses, the visibility improves – and gradually you can begin to fathom how immense these waterfalls truly are.

An elderly lady from South Africa points out people on the opposite shore: “They shouldn’t be there.” As a guide, she is here often and is likely to know.

We prefer to stay on the safe side ... 😉

The roar of the water is at least as loud as the engines of the helicopters that continuously circle over the falls to offer tourists an even better view from above.

On the way back – passing the famous Victoria Falls Bridge – we are then surprised by the first wild animals. And with them, one truly has to summon the courage to just keep walking. 😳

Later this afternoon, there is still an excursion from the tour operator planned.

We are excited. 🌍

Back at the campsite, for birthday breakfast, we had pancakes from probably the best pancake maker in the world (that’s me). Due to a lack of brown sugar, we had only 'normal' pancakes and no cinnamon roll pancakes 🤤🤤🤤, but what can you do? The birthday girl also received gifts, including such amazing gifts as an empty box that was supposed to contain a Ninabella hairbrush. Well, Amazon will handle it. 

Otherwise, this day was mainly one thing: calorie-rich. Besides the pancakes with powdered sugar and maple syrup, there was also a homemade Omnia marble cake (if you don't know what an Omnia is, you haven't missed much), delicious ice cream sundaes in Lechbruck by the lake, and to top it off, a gigantic schnitzel with fries for Mia, a super cheap onion roast for VonVon, and cheese spaetzle for me.

Since nothing works without AI these days, the whole thing is also presented as a comic strip for the lazy readers.

Because I wanted to stay in Indonesia for two months, not just the one granted by the visa at the airport, I had to find an immigration office where, for a fee of 500,000 rupiah (24 Swiss francs or just under 25 euros), the extension could be arranged; this isn't possible online. These offices are located in the major cities, and I had no desire to drive back to Denpasar from my refuge on Bali's west coast along the notorious highway.

So I decided to go to the neighboring island of Lombok, where such an office exists in the capital, Mataram. And since I was already on Lombok, I added on a week on the south coast.

While the Gili Islands are better known for beach holidays, I wanted to continue east afterwards, to Labuan Bajo on the island of Flores and to Komoğdo National Park. Lombok's airport is in the south of the island, while the Gili Islands are in the northwest. I didn't want to drive up and down the island three times.

Chaos at the port

So, on July 14, 2026, I had myself driven to the Balinese ferry port of Padang Bai, about 90 km east of Balian Beach, where I had spent a week. This journey also took a good three hours, given Balinese traffic conditions. From Padang Bai, various ferries and speedboats operate to Penida Island, the three tourist-developed Gili Islands, and Bansal in northwestern Lombok.

Padang Bai is in complete chaos: Several hundred people are waiting for ferries about to depart; there's no information about when which ferry or speedboat will dock and be loaded, not to mention any electronic displays. So, impatient passengers stumble over strewn suitcases to the gate, and from there, told to wait until later, they head back again.

I had read a lot beforehand about the organizational talent of the Indonesians, which doesn't quite match our ideals, about delays and chaos – and here, finally, they are. Being transferred in the middle of the ocean from a comfortable speedboat to an open, rickety boat without proper seating, and without anyone informing us, only elicits a fatalistic shrug. When you have the image of sunken or burning Indonesian ferries and passengers fighting for their lives in mind, this is a minor inconvenience.

Upon arrival at Bangsal port on the island of Lombok, travelers (as in almost every port and airport) are immediately surrounded by people trying to sell them a taxi. In such cases, it's helpful to research fares beforehand to avoid being ripped off. I ended up paying 250,000 Indonesian rupiah for the hour-and-a-half ride to Mataram, the equivalent of twelve Swiss francs or just over twelve euros. The drivers had initially demanded half a million.

No tourists

Mataram is the capital of the province of West Nusa Tenggara; this includes Lombok, the three times larger Sumbawa (over 15,000 square kilometers), and around 400 smaller islands.

No, Mataram is not a tourist destination. The city, with its approximately 450,000 inhabitants, is far too rigid for that. The fact that Islam prevails here (though not comparable to the practice in the province of Aceh, see my posts "Banda Aceh – Sharia after the Tsunami" from May 22, 2026, and "Aceh – How Sharia is enforced" from May 24) becomes apparent at the latest in a restaurant: wine or beer with your meal – forget it!

Roemah Langko ("House on Langko Street") would be perfectly suited for a sophisticated dinner. This reconstructed Dutch mansion from the 1920s serves excellent Indonesian specialties. The waiter, Benedictus, a Catholic from the island of Flores, also doesn't understand why he can't offer me a glass of wine with my meal.

Trip saved

The same applies to the many international restaurants in the sprawling Lombok Epicentrum Mall. I made a pilgrimage there, firstly to enjoy sushi again instead of the local Indonesian food, and secondly to salvage my trip.

Because on the ferry from Bali, I discovered to my horror that my phone wouldn't charge anymore, and without a phone, a traveler is completely lost, since that flat thing in your back pocket is an instrument for everything: storing flight tickets and hotel bookings; paying in shops, restaurants, and hotels; checking emails; contacting the bank; 6,547 photos (as of July 14, 2026); 45 travel apps; half a dozen AI apps; Google Maps; the NZZ subscription; the New York Times subscription; and so on and so forth. (It's uncanny how vital this thing has become.)

There were two possible reasons for the problem: a simple one, that the charger was broken; a more serious one, that the charging issue lay with the phone itself. A friendly saleswoman in the Epicentrum Mall came to my rescue: it was just the charger. My relief must have been quite obvious.

Mosque and Hindu temple

With renewed optimism, I set out to explore Mataram. The Great Mosque in the city center, the Masjid Hubbul Wathan, also known as the Islamic Center Nusa Tenggara Barat, was opened in December 2013.

The voluminous prayer hall, diagonally opposite the immigration office, can accommodate more than 10,000 worshippers. Its domes are decorated with colorful batik patterns. The main minaret, standing alone next to the mosque, is an imposing 99 meters tall. Four slender towers, each 66 meters high, mark the corners of the building.

During a series of earthquakes in July and August 2018, which mainly affected northern Lombok and the Gili Islands, the Great Mosque, then only five years old, was also severely damaged: parts of the roof collapsed; the minarets cracked; the dome of one of them was tilted sharply and threatened to collapse.

I was pleasantly surprised by the immigration office, by the way: An officer in a black uniform and a female officer wearing a headscarf immediately attended to me, took my mobile phone, and carried out the rather complicated process for me – no paperwork; that's all moved to the virtual realm. Then I was photographed, and that was the end of the bureaucratic process.

Previously, I had expected conditions like those I knew from African or Arab authorities: waiting for hours in humid, hot rooms together with a hundred other petitioners; endless back and forth between different offices; filling out dozens of forms; queuing here to pay, there to be questioned; getting a stamp here, handing in a photograph there.

Sometimes pessimism has its advantages: you can be pleasantly surprised, like I was in Mataram.

When Bali ruled Lombok

Matram consists of four distinct districts; Cakranegara, once shaped by Balinese kings who ruled parts of Lombok in the 18th and 19th centuries, is the most historically significant. The 300-year-old Pura Meru in Cakranegara is particularly impressive.

The temple's three tall, multi-tiered shrines, which from a distance appear to be turned on a lathe, are dedicated to the Hindu deities Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. Adjacent to Pura Meru lies the former royal garden with a large, artificial pond that reflects the blue of the sky, at the center of which is the Bale Kambang, a pavilion in the water that belonged to the royal palace complex.

Mataram will never be one of my favorite cities; it's too puritanical for my taste. But the two days I spent there offered some interesting insights, and I'll fondly remember the saleswoman in the Epicentrum Mall as well as the immigration officials.

330 km drive ahead of us along the south coast. Unfortunately, the weather was not on our side today. It was pouring rain.🫩

However, we still made a stop at Diamond Beach, as we could already see the icebergs on the beach from the road, completely different from yesterday. Crazy.

Then we continued through the rain until we reached the glacier Svínafellsjökull. And behold, as if by magic, it suddenly stopped raining.

We were able to fully enjoy the impressions.

Back in the car, it started pouring again shortly after.

A quick stop in Vik, but the rain really made all outdoor activities pointless.💦💦

Picturesque in sunshine!

We then quickly checked out the Skógafoss.

We arrived at the ferry port on time, and the ferry to Vestmannaeyjar (40 minutes) departed right on schedule in the pouring rain.

It swung quite a bit...

At the destination port, we quickly got out of the ship and walked two cross streets up.

Dinner, rated 4.9 on Google. Not bad.😁

Very delicious!!

Then we settled into our overnight barrel.

The comfort is rather country-style.🤭 😬🏕

But the location is grand, right by the rock.🪨

Hopefully, it will be dry tomorrow; we don’t dare to dream of more.

Because the island is truly enchanting, as shown in the video on the ferry.

Stay tuned!

Dine❤️Jeff

After leaving the Brittany region with our journey yesterday and traveling to the Pays de la Loire, it was time to visit a city once again. Nantes on the Loire.

The former shipyard and port city has developed since the 1990s into a university and cultural city.

We traveled with the well-developed public transport system, using buses and trams, to the city center and started our tour at the tourist information office, which presented itself under the title 'Le voyage à Nantes'.

Then we crossed the street to the 'Château des ducs de Bretagne', which was named so because the city belonged to that region until the 1940s and even served as its capital for a time. From the castle walls, we had a good view of the LU tower.

From the Château, we continued along the 'Ligne verte', the green line painted throughout the entire city, where all the major sights were lined up.

Our next stop was at the 'Cathédrale St-Pierre St-Paul'.

Then we skipped a few centuries of history, as our next destinations were the 'Machines de l’île' and 'Le Grand Éléphant'. It was absolutely impressive what the artists and engineers created here in the former Atlantic shipyard. Real steampunks were in paradise here.

Our visit to the 'Musée Jules Verne' was very brief, as the small museum was located in a residential building without air conditioning, and the room temperature of 38 degrees matched the outside temperature, just more humid, almost tropical. It was a wonder that the humidity did not condense on the displays. However, they had a solution: starting tomorrow, the museum would be temporarily closed.

The final stage was the 'Jardin Extraordinaire', and it truly was an extraordinary garden! We entered the former quarry from above. A steel staircase led us down the 25-meter high cliffs into the garden. A waterfall provided pleasant temperatures, and the streams that spread across the area nourished the flora so well that it was significantly greener and lusher here compared to the rest of the city.

We could have spent two more days in Nantes and still not seen everything, but for today, after six hours at 38 degrees in the shade (What shade?) it was simply time to stop. We wanted to go back to the sea.

Phew, it was cold here, only 6 degrees 🥶 Then we flew ✈️ to Windhoek. Finally arrived in Namibia 🇳🇦.

We had to bring a lot of time with us ⏰️ Everything takes a long time and you really need a lot of patience.

After what felt like an eternity, we had finally completed everything:

Visa ✔️

SIM card ✔️

Currency exchange ✔️

Rental car ✔️

Shopping at Spar ✔️

In our guesthouse in Windhoek, we just collapsed into bed 🛏🥱

Unfortunately not for long, as a glance at the weather map subtly warns me: It's going to be a hot 30 degrees with a cloudless sky today.

But first, I enjoy breakfast in the former classroom. It's the best I've had on my journey so far, and I highly recommend it. Here, the sausage isn't displayed all morning on the board but is fresh and local. Today, there's also pickled trout. Super tasty. The star chef Daniel Schmidthaler is personally cooking here. I don’t know him yet, nor have I seen him, but what is offered here is delicious.

Moreover, when you are greeted by the kitchen boy by name, you know you are welcome.

I drink my cappuccino on the terrace, and then we're off. It's already 10:00, darn it.

I put on a jacket, hat, and gloves (socks repurposed) just in case.

The route takes me over Tornowhof-Lichtenberg-Neugarten-Grauhagen-Göhren. The hills in this area are wearing me down. Only the downhill rides compensate a little. My biggest worry, however, is losing my cap. My helmet is safely hanging on the handlebars. 😬

The milestone of elevation is, however, far from reached, as I will later learn from my own experience.

Around 12:00, I want to give my bike a break. By then, I should have reached Woldeck.

There, I inquire about a swimming lake. The local one has poor water quality. No chance or a good sign. I seem to have left the Feldberger Seenlandschaft behind. I try again, and this time a cyclist stops next to me and gives me the tip to head to Helpt. However, with the warning ⚠️ that I would have to conquer a mountain. “Young man, do you know how many mountains I have already left behind?!” “So, this one mountain should be manageable.”

He, however, doesn’t clarify things for me, and together we ride towards my midday destination. Perhaps it’s a guilty conscience or genuine helpfulness that makes him accompany me for a while. I will never find out. Just before he says goodbye, I ask for his first name. I do this to include people in my blog.

In that moment, as he is just about to turn, he seems a bit overwhelmed to me; he starts wobbling with his bike, and for a brief moment, I worry he might crash into something. “Eberhard,” he quickly says, and just like that, our paths separate.

The route to Helpt isn’t in my plans but seems shorter again and thus a hidden gem.

I am really looking forward to the cooling off because I’m already sweating from every pore of my jacket.

Suddenly, I catch sight of a slight rise ahead of me, which, of course, only reveals itself as a significant ascent around the curve. Great… and at lunchtime, no less. I feel like I’m getting off every 10 meters to drink something. When I finally accomplish it and turn around, I can hardly believe it myself. As proof… a photo. My drinking water just about sufficed, but I'm still not at my destination. Where can I refill my water bottle in this little town? No one willingly steps outside in this heat. Only crazy cyclists.😚🚴‍♀️

At that moment, I see a woman smiling at me from a garden. She must have been sent to rescue me.🙏🏼

I ask for some water and am invited inside.

Elena is from Transylvania but has lived in Germany since 1992. Instead of water, she offers me a glass of water with ice cubes. At that moment, I could hug her out of sheer gratitude.🥹

After I’ve returned my body temperature to normal, Elena explains to me about the “rise.” “You’ve actually overcome the highest elevation in Mecklenburg-Vorpommern at 179 meters.”

Silence.

I am of course completely stunned. Eberhard, thank you for leaving me in the dark.

Maybe I shouldn’t have opted for this kind of “shortcut.”

We say goodbye and exchange phone numbers.

By the way, Elena transforms her beautiful garden into a café every Sunday.☕️🏡

A small note humbly hangs from a tree in front of her house.

Thank you very much for your hospitality.🙏🏼

I reach Helpter Lake in 800 meters and cannot believe my luck 🍀. I'm alone, and the lake belongs only to me for the next two hours.

With a blue cap, white ring, a proud drake swore loyalty. Mrs. Duck believed it. But the rascal lost love and patience.

As the lady sat on the eggs sweating and gazing into the water, the handsome drake zipped into the reed and was suddenly gone.

In between: a layover in Johannesburg and waiting in rather wintry temperatures at – according to a British co-traveler – the “worst airport in the world.” His reasoning: the legendary long queues that apparently even transit passengers can't escape. We can at least confirm: quick is not how it goes here. 😂

However, the airport does offer some exotic shopping options: very colorful clothing – and real zebra skins. 🦓😳 I left both behind.

And then came the moment when fatigue suddenly didn’t matter much: just before landing in Zimbabwe, we could actually see our first herd of elephants from the plane. Can you spot them? 🐘🐘🐘
Africa. Really now.

Our accommodation is great, and at dinner, instead of background music, we were treated to a rather impressive frog concert. 🐸🎶

By the way, there’s no picture of us today. After 30 hours of travel, we agreed to spare posterity this sight. 😂

Tomorrow we are heading to the Victoria Falls. We could already see their mighty spray from a distance today.

But first: sleep.
We have arrived. 🌍❤️

The sun shines mercilessly even after swimming, and in Oertzenhof I nearly waver, as this little nest actually has a train station. I'm torn, but I reckon I can manage the 10 km.

They will be the hardest.

5 km before Eichhorst, I face a road without any shade in sight.

I remember it from last year, so I truly respect it.

While I assess my chances of survival, I receive a call. I dismiss it but check again just in case it's a life-or-death situation.

The Pasterhof, my next destination, is trying to reach me. So, I call back and am pleased to speak with the owner Elisabeth, whom I remember from last year. No, it's not Elisabeth but a Brigitte. She's actually just calling to let me know that no one is home. The key is here and there…

“Does this mean I won't get dinner or breakfast?” I ask.

Exactly, that's what it means. “But you can drive to the next village to eat.”

“Young woman, I won't be riding another meter on my bike today.” “I've already done almost 50 km, and moreover, I can’t go any further, plus I still have 5 km ahead of me with 100% sunlight.”

Never ever!!!

There’s a pause on the other end, hmm… “Conni will be bringing the animals into the barn later; she might serve you the zucchini soup and something for breakfast.”

A smile spreads across my face. That's what we'll do, and motivated, I take on the last 5 km.

I take the same room as last year, shower, and as it’s way too warm outside, I make myself comfortable in the breakfast room.

I quickly find the coffee machine and coffee.

In the former pastor's room, shelves filled with books adorn one wall, while the other hosts a piano, and in the middle stands an old seat with a curled backrest. Above, three black-and-white photos of former pastors hang.

I enjoy the silence in this large house and am no longer sad to be alone. After all, I can move freely in a stranger's house.😜

I read a few pages in my new book, and as it approaches 7 PM, my stomach makes itself known. I head to the kitchen and snoop around.😀 There are heaps of canned fruits lying around. The fridge is massive and well stocked. A handful of eggs also sit on the kitchen table; how long have they been out in the heat?🤔

If no one comes in the next 10 minutes, I’ll crack them into a pan. My antibiotics, which I still need to take, should definitely kill any germs.

Just at that moment, the heavy front door opens.

Conni, a small friendly woman, steps in and warmly greets me. She immediately begins to lay out the delicacies planned for me. For dinner, I can prepare gnocchi with the homemade zucchini soup. For tomorrow morning, she sets out rolls, bread, butter, cheese, and of course homemade raspberry jam. The eggs are fresh, and there are herbs and fruits in the garden. And just as quickly as she came, she disappears.

After the rain, I settle into the beautiful garden and enjoy my self-prepared meal amidst bleating sheep, quacking ducks, and clucking hens.

Relaxation spreads over me, and soon I feel sleepy. As the animals settle into their sleeping spots, like every evening, I head to my room.

As I visit the bathroom dressed only in my pajama pants and a minimal top, a man walks towards me. 😳

He doesn't introduce himself, but wishes me good night.

I am startled for a moment. Now it makes sense why there was a second key in the box.

Conni comes rushing back in again. She forgot something… oh, and then she says, “and there’s another guest, so you’re not alone, thank goodness.” 😅

No, not that, but a heads-up beforehand would have been nice.

I go to bed and turn my room key around just to be safe.

At night, I can’t really fall asleep. I keep hearing noises. The “stranger” goes to the bathroom three times. So do I. 

Could also be due to the three cups of coffee.🤭

A summer vacation of firsts: our first summer camping trip within Germany (and even in our Swabian homeland), and also the first vacation at all in 13 years not as a family of five, but just as a trio (at least for two of the three weeks). Alex prefers to spend her holiday with her BFF in Cologne while Emma-Sophie stays home alone. Only Mia has managed to overcome her reluctance to go on vacation with her parents. So at least one tradition remains: Mia's birthday is celebrated abroad. 

Monday, August 10: Setup Day

The arrival day or setup day is always a bit 'critical' at the Appenmaier household. The master of the house, usually the epitome of calm, tends to be a little irritable during both the arrival and the subsequent setup of the awning. On the other hand, one must ask: how can someone react when the precise command 'Hand me the pole!' is met with a blank look from the wife, who naturally does not bring the correct pole, or when the daughter, receiving the equally precise command 'Push that', does everything except push the right thing in the right direction? Exactly, one reacts peevishly. Especially when it's over 30°. Ultimately, this setup was also survived without major insults or fights. Let's see how the takedown goes...

Since the arrival was only possible from 2 PM and the setup of the caravan, awning, sleeping tent, camping furniture, grill, fridge, table, chairs, lighting, gas, water, etc. does take a little time, not much traditionally happens on the first day otherwise. Nevertheless, I couldn't resist conducting an initial water check. Result: top. In the evening, we had a first round of Yahtzee and Binokel, and then went to bed early.

Tuesday, August 11 and Wednesday, August 12: Bathing Days

Tuesday and Wednesday proceeded almost identically: early in the morning, my wife and I went to the bakery in Schwangau (30 minutes there, 30 minutes back), followed by a leisurely breakfast, then in random order: chilling, grilling, swimming, playing Yahtzee, playing Binokel, gaming (Darksiders 1 on the Switch 2 (was on sale)), reading, sitting on the phone, and answering the occasional WhatsApp from Unemployed-Arne (the only reason for this blog). 

Plans for the coming days and weeks: Mia's birthday, Neuschwanstein, some hikes, sightseeing in Füssen, Zugspitze, and much more.

Finally arrived at the top of the mountain. At nearly 600m, there is a beautiful view, even though the air is not entirely clear. Unfortunately, the center of Tokyo, which is 50 km away, couldn't be seen in the distance.

On the way, there were many temples and shrines located on the mountain.

I particularly enjoyed the descent on Route 6. This was a proper mountain forest hiking trail that constantly followed a stream downhill. There were also small shrines and monuments along the way. Overall, it was very nice and highly recommended.

After nearly 90 minutes of train travel, I have arrived at the entrance to Takaosan (Takaosanguchi). Today, I'm heading up the mountain, where there are various routes to take. I chose the chairlift for a more relaxed start, and it was very pleasant. A funicular railway also operates alongside it. That already covers about half of the path.
How things continue on the mountain will be shown in the next post.

Once back down, I tried some typical sweets. Sakemanju, Sobadango, and Mitsufukudango, all very delicious and made from a type of rice dough.

To finish, I visited the onsen there. There were various pools with water temperatures of up to around 41°C. After the hike, it was very nice for relaxation.

A quick catjump from our accommodation to the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, marveling intensely at the icebergs, and then we hopped on a boat straight into the lagoon, getting really close to the icebergs.🥶

White, blue, and black icebergs drift through the lagoon, truly a bizarre sight.

Among them and sometimes on top, a few sea lions are frolicking.

By the way, this spot has already doubled as a James Bond backdrop.0️⃣0️⃣7️⃣

In the background, the mighty Vatnajökull glacier stands tall.🗻

After the boat ride, we needed to explore it closely.

We had a glacier hike on the agenda, lasting 2.5 hours.

Before that, we traveled with 'Super Jeeps' to the very edge of the glacier.

Then we put on crampons, helmets on, and off we went with our Argentinian guide and only 4 other participants.☺️💪

An impressive experience. The glacier is up to 100m thick. We admired ice caves and ice holes (which are even better in winter).

Great views of the lagoon and occasionally some underground murmuring.

Quickly devoured a lamb burger🐑🍔, then we headed to Diamond Beach.

There, the sea washes glacier remnants onto the black sandy beach. Diamonds, indeed.

After 7 hours of 8° and constant drizzle, we quickly changed at our accommodation and headed to 'Horn Brewery' for dinner and ☝️ beer tasting.🍺

Everything was delicious😋, prices will not be commented on🤐

Stay tuned!

Dine🩵Jeff

Before we can embark on the adventure in Namibia, we unfortunately have to say goodbye to our sweet Raya. Have fun at her vacation spots Gerbrunn & Kirchfembach.

Departure at 14:45 from Wiesentheid, luckily no traffic jam 🥳. Therefore, we arrive at the airport way too early 😅

Now we are waiting for boarding ✈️

Mileage: 159170

The first special encounter of the day happened to us this morning at breakfast. Casually, a robin hopped around next to our table. When Ines got the impression that the little bird was begging, Sebb remarked that robins are actually insectivores and should have little interest in croissants. A misconception, as it turned out a few moments later when the creature eagerly attacked the crumbs next to the table.

After the 'Petit déjeuner’, we set off again. Today, we headed just outside the gates of Nantes, to La Chapelle-sur-Erdre. We couldn’t enter the city itself because of the environmental zones introduced in 2025, but that was fine with us as neither of us felt like dealing with French city traffic.

In the small suburb, there wasn't a campsite, but there was an organic vegetable farm, Thom Pousse. Thom's concept was as follows:

• You ordered an online seasonal vegetable basket.
• As a delivery option, you chose 'Pickup at the farm'.
• Then you mentioned in the comments that you would like to stay overnight.
• With the order confirmation, you received the green light to stay overnight on the grounds right next to the field.

Thus, we not only got a parking spot as a starting point for visiting Nantes the following day, but also 4 kg of zucchini, 3 kg of tomatoes, and 200 g of parsley.

So for dinner, we had freshly stewed ratatouille, and the quantity would still suffice easily for tomorrow.

Now that we were a bit off the coast and further inland, the current heat wave also became noticeable for us. In the car, it was almost unbearable in the afternoon, and we sat outside around the camper at 11:00 PM still in 28 degrees Celsius under the trees of organic farmer Thom.

A private initiative has taken on this commemorative work with good Latvian-English explanations. The only words from our native language that appear here are: Wehrmacht commanding officer, master plan, Riga local command, free of Jews.

This is our language!

Just outside of Riga, we also visited the former Saraspils camp, where especially many children were murdered.

Now it was time to leave these places of horror. So we drove on to the Gauja National Park.

Today, a detour to the south is on the agenda after Bargen and Vinadi. Pedrinate Paese is the southernmost public transport station in Switzerland.

The village was first mentioned in 1291 under the then name Pedrenate. Even under the Duke of Milan, the village was a municipality.

A picturesque journey through the drought-stricken land is about to begin. With the beautiful rolling stock of the Voralpenexpress, I head to Arth-Goldau. There, I switch to the EC 15. This train is quite nice too, but the coaches of the SOB have a very special charm.

The base tunnels through the Gotthard and Ceneri drastically shorten the travel time, and soon I'm in Chiasso. Normally, you just pass through here on the way to vacation. At least today, I'm changing trains. In the shimmering midday heat, the bus slowly creeps to its stop at point D. A cheerful group of nonnas boards the bus with their shopping carts. In their friendly dialect, they are likely discussing shopping experiences and the planned lunch menu. The switchbacks on the narrow road and the oncoming traffic demand everything from the driver. But he handles it with stoic calmness.

Pedrinate Paese is as lively as Bargen and Vinadi. The list of sights is short, and the next Osteria is not within walking distance.

Therefore, I board the bus again after a record-breaking ten minutes, which takes me to Chiasso. To keep myself entertained, my deputy calls me from somewhere in the middle of nowhere to inform me about the latest developments regarding drought. Thanks to technology and geography, however, I receive his well-thought-out ideas only as a gap text. After two years of intense collaboration, our thoughts now complement each other so well that this poses no obstacle. Since he already has carte blanche from me, our exchange is more due to his efforts to prevent me from sinking into boredom rather than a real need on his part.

Well-informed, I now travel back home. At 215 km/h, I consume the Thonbrötli and wash it down with a focus water. Like pearls on a string, the lakes line up: Lake Uri, Lake Lauerz, Lake Zug, Lake Lucerne, and Lake Sempach, each with its own color and character – what a contrast to the parched landscape!

The postcard Switzerland passing by the window of the air-conditioned railway carriage almost makes one forget the summer of the millennium. Only when changing trains, when the heat stands like a wall at the door, can one fathom how all the road builders, farmers, and traffic regulators cope, who must do their work under the scorching sun.

Gratefully written from the coolness of a summer-ready house.

Many know Civitavecchia only as the port of Rome, where large cruise ships dock and from where most tourists are taken directly to Italy's capital by bus. However, if you have the time to stroll through the town the night before boarding, as we did, you will discover a historic old port town that is definitely worth it.

We used the time to walk along the promenade, admire the market stalls, and try out restaurants. And of course, we also rode the giant Ferris wheel. It is an eye-catcher, both from below and with the view from above. In fact, there is even a pebble beach here, actively used by the locals.

Right at the transition to the harbor, the white baroque city gate Porta Livorno impresses. Next to it stretches the monumental harbor wall Mura Urbaniana, into which the artistic Vanvitelli fountain with its distinctive faun head is integrated. At the harbor basin, you will also come across the city's absolute landmark, the gigantic fortress Forte Michelangelo with its mighty main tower.

If you walk a few steps further into the old town, you dive into original Italy. During our tour, we also discovered the Cathedral of San Francesco d’Assisi and the bronze statue of Pope John Paul II in front of it. Not far from there, we also stumbled upon the picturesque Piazza Leandra with the historic Chiesa della Stella and the Archetto, a centuries-old medieval town gate made of natural stone.

On the way to the cruise terminal, we passed by the lovely little fishing harbor from the town. I had so much fun watching and photographing the huge stacked fishing nets there that I ended up taking a whole series of pictures. So, Civitavecchia awaits you as a charming Italian town that is easily accessible from a cruise ship and offers small discoveries at every corner.

And to be honest: I would only recommend spending several consecutive days in Rome. We have been there, and it is worth it! Rushing to see the sights by bus is far too short. Therefore, my personal conclusion before a cruise is: Not all roads lead to Rome; sometimes, stopping just before it is enough.

However, at today’s “Experience Airport Hanover,” this wasn’t really necessary: there isn’t much going on at security. 😅

The most exciting thing so far: the small Scorpions Museum – including the band’s first cash book. 💸🎸

With six departures in three hours, the chances are pretty good that we’ll arrive in Frankfurt on time. 😇

And from there, things will get serious: Johannesburg and then on to the Victoria Falls. 💪🌍

Africa, here we come! 🐘

There was a lot going on in the city when I walked home from bouldering. I stumbled upon a nice summer festival at Kanda Myoujin Shrine. There, I treated myself to a cucumber on a stick, the vegan version of kebab, which was salted and marinated in ice.
A little further, I also visited Yushima Tenman Shrine, where there was a funny statue. I also spotted a cute DHL truck here.

At Ochanomizu, several train lines intersect. On the surface, you can see three: the Marunoichi Line (in red), Chūō Line, and Sōbu Line. Beneath them runs the Chiyoda Line.

We have already driven several coastal roads, but the southeastern part of Ring Road '1' here is truly spectacular; you could stop every 10 meters to enjoy the view.😯🥹

The road winds along the fjords and then, as you go further south, it becomes the magnificent coastal road.

Absolutely, and of course, the weather was perfect today🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞🌞

We also took a short but very beautiful coastal hike afterward. ✅️

When a gravel road twisted up towards the sky on the horizon, our Jimny couldn't resist...

Extra round in the hinterland over hills and stones, steep up, steep down. Gorgeous view.

Back on the coast, we made a stop in the truly dreamy fishing village of Dúnivopur.

A delicious salmon roll at the food truck and one Fish & Chips at the harbor bistro. The local brewery closes at 6 PM.🤯

Back in Panorama Paradise, we enjoyed the black beaches at sunset.🥰

In front of us, the foothills of the Vatnajökull glacier slowly emerged.

That's where we're heading tomorrow.🤩

Stay tuned!

Dine❤️Jeff

English version below

The boat was our home for two weeks. Here are a few glimpses into life on board.

At the beginning of the trip, everything had to be prepared: planning meals for the next two weeks, shopping, and stowing everything on board. Route planning and the safety briefing are, of course, essential before we could finally set off. A few quick emergency-maneuver drills — and off we go to the islands.

Cooking and dishwashing were done in teams of two, unless we went to a restaurant. Since we had sunlight every day from 6:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., we often got up early to make the most of the day. In the evenings, we showered in the sea and enjoyed the sunset together.

Between trip briefings and laundry drying along the railing, we spent two dreamy weeks and anchored most happily in turquoise water — shallow enough that you could sometimes stand next to the boat at times.

When we arrived at the desired campsite for the day, we were greeted with the familiar sign: Full!

But this time, we experienced the kindness of fellow campers. As we stood in front of the barrier debating which direction to search next, an older gentleman gestured towards us. We approached him, and as we broke out our tourist French, he slowly and clearly explained that he had observed from his spot how two other campers were packing up and would be leaving in about ten minutes. We went over to the two campers, and they confirmed what he had seen. We waited and then indeed got the desired spot.

Perfect; when it went like that, it was perfect.

We first took a break and then went for a little walk on the completely overcrowded beach.

In the evening, we headed to the trendiest, perhaps the only, restaurant in the area. As we joined the line at the restaurant, it became clear how crucial our reservation from the afternoon had been, since we received our seats at the fully booked 'Le Pointe.' The food was very good, and especially the desserts impressed us.

Day 8

July 22, 2026, Via Jacobi: Einsiedeln (SZ) – Alpthal (SZ)

This morning, contrary to my usual habit, I stayed in bed for a moment longer. I was still a bit dazed, as wild dreams had haunted me throughout the night. Ghosts, gods, and otherworldly beings stormed, rushed, and merged with the reality we know. It's crazy what a monastery can trigger.

I was looking forward to a coffee and ambled leisurely into the dining room. I wasn't in a hurry today as I would be heading home in the evening before continuing my hike for a few more kilometers. In the dining room, I deliberately chose to sit next to the most grumpy-looking person. I was sure I would have my peace there. Early in the morning, I may feel good inside, but I just want to start the day quietly, without conversations. When I asked if the seat was still free, the lady, around 60 years old - what a surprise - nodded grimly. It was lovely; we both silently enjoyed our breakfast rolls with coffee until we woke up and eventually ended up having the 3 classic starting conversations: Where are you from, what are you doing here, and what’s your name? But no matter how hard I tried, I simply could not understand the lady. I apologized and insisted how sorry I was when it didn’t work out again after a third attempt. From then on, she made an effort to soften her Lötschental dialect for my sake. "You really ought to know Wiler!", she said curtly, and I became inquisitive. My neck hairs stood up, and my intuition was confirmed. It turned out that the lady had lost her entire home due to the massive rockslide in Blatten and now lives in Wiler. "Fortunately, no one was harmed. Except for one, that shepherd!", she reported. But he was to blame! When I interjected that in such a case, the question of guilt doesn’t arise as the shepherd was no longer with us, she replied: "True! It is what it is!" And I thought I detected a slight twitch at the corner of her mouth. This breakfast demanded a second coffee, just so we could continue chatting, and I learned so many fascinating and very personal things about her tumultuous life. What a gift! Her biggest fear was that this wonderful village would be forgotten. While one carries memories in the heart, eventually everything will be forgotten. I assured her that exactly this village with its incredible history will never be forgotten. It will become one of the best-documented villages in Switzerland. She smiled for the first time.

Suddenly, a murmur went through the ranks, and it became eerily quiet. A monk entered the hall, and I whispered to her, asking who it was. She whispered reverently, "That's the abbot, essentially the king of the monastery!" Oh dear, either I was the only one who didn’t know this, or the others were all pretending to be wise? Behind him, another monk entered the hall: "That’s my brother!", she proudly announced, as she apparently visits her brother in the monastery for a few days every year. I let the abbot and the brother sit next to my new, no longer grumpy acquaintance, and we both bid farewell warmly. I will never forget her!

Before continuing on my pilgrimage, I took a good look around the monastery once again. This year, the monastery celebrates the big anniversary

So we rolled, sorted, discarded, and broke in the new packing cubes. What a fantastic invention!

Shoes were weighed against each other, the travel pharmacy was put through a strict review, and every item had to face the question: Do I really need you? 😂

The preliminary result:
8.20 kg bag + 3.35 kg backpack = 11.55 kg.

With a permissible 20 kg, there’s still plenty of room to spare.
A rather dangerous thought just before departure. 😇

Tomorrow it begins. 🌍🐘

For outdoor lovers planning highland trips in Tibet, Ali region and Mount Kailash trekking are classic challenging itineraries. Proper altitude acclimatization, border permit application and cold-resistant gear are core preparation work before departure.

A short summary of our visit to Sydney:

On the first day, we were exhausted from the overnight journey. 🥱 We went to a harbor near our hotel. There was also a water playground that was very cool. The harbor was beautiful as well. When we could finally go to our room, we were very amazed 😲. The apartment was well-furnished and very spacious. My sister and I naturally picked the better room 😁. That was already a good start in Sydney.

On the second day, we had a tour of the Sydney Opera House!!!!!!! Although it was in English, it was still very cool.

We discovered quite a few things. After a small walk through the adjacent park, we visited the

Since 1713, Acadia has no longer been part of the colony of New France. It became British and has been known as Nova Scotia ever since. Today, it is one of Canada's outposts on the Atlantic coast.

This is Canada, and this should be made clear to every moose, coyote, and bird. The density of flags has apparently increased recently due to Trump's policies. This is, as one often hears, in no way the 51st state of the USA. Canada is different, friendlier, more open, nicer, and people take pride in that. Besides the rainbow flag and that of Nova Scotia, a blue, white, and red flag with a yellow star also flies in the wind - the flag of Acadia, referring to the French traditions of the region.

Today's Nova Scotia was at the heart of a French colony in the 18th century. The first European settlers claimed the land, displacing a large part of the local Mi’kmaq, an indigenous group. In Louisbourg, on the northeast coast of Cape Breton Island, French troops began constructing a large fortified city from 1719.

The goal was primarily to fend off the British, who also had their sights set on the territory. The parcel of land that is now Eastern Canada was best accessible by sea from Europe and had been regarded since the 15th and 16th centuries as an area of infinite wealth. The coast was particularly known for its wealth of fish, and there was a rumor that one couldn’t swim in the sea, as there was so much other life in the water. This attracted more and more people from Europe to the northeast coast of America. The Europeans also enslaved individuals into

However, we experienced the full 20%.😖

No matter, we still reached the summit of Grænafell. Signed the summit book included.🤠

The descent was a bit adventurous, but that's how it is sometimes in adventure land.

At the hotel, we then warmed up, caution,🔥.

Afterward, we quickly went for a brownie and coffee at the only open local place here.

Since we weren't completely full from hiking yet, we took the coastal path right behind 'our town'.😯

Picturesque, and the sun finally came out again.💯

For dinner, we returned again to the same place. Very cozy and we had very delicious fish again.

Tomorrow we're heading south.

Stay tuned!

Dine❤️Jeff

When we looked out of the window in the morning, we could still see the wild rabbits on the campsite grounds. It was only when life on the campsite truly awoke that the long-eared ones disappeared, sleeping the day away in hiding.

For breakfast, we had our own version of crêpes; pancakes. 🥞 And since we were already baking, we prepared our meal for the evening as well. Tonight we would have khachapuri. Since this required a yeast dough, we had to start early, as the dough needed to rise properly in the current temperatures.

Then we hiked along the beach once again, this time towards Penthièvre and the isthmus that connected the Quiberon peninsula to the mainland. The cypress trees were emitting their characteristic scent, and only from a distance did one realize how enormous these trees could grow.

When Sebb noticed the fort of Penthièvre, he insisted on visiting the old fortress. Unfortunately, the historical buildings turned out to still be an active installation of the French military and were not open for visits. What a bummer!

So we simply hiked back along the beach to the north and returned to the campsite.

Since it was Saturday evening, the atmosphere at the campsite was particularly festive, and all the petanque courts were occupied. This game, part of the boule games, was the most popular activity and was played everywhere in the parks and also at the campsite.

After a lovely shower - we had to take advantage of it while we had it - the dough for the khachapuri was rolled out, filled with cheese, and baked in the pan, delicious, delicious.

We have arrived in Copenhagen and are at the DCU Campingplatz Copenhagen Absolon. The site is easily accessible by camper and is well-located. From here, it takes about 30 minutes by bike to reach the city center. There is also a train station that is a 10-minute walk away, and from there, it takes about 15 minutes to get to the center.

The campsite is very pleasant, with large pitches, sufficient sanitary buildings that are well-equipped and clean, providing everything a camper needs.

Copenhagen is a beautiful city. On the first day, we took a boat tour of the canals, which I can highly recommend. You see and learn a lot. Afterwards, we went exploring on foot; my legs have never hurt so much as they did here😊! But it was worth it, with beautiful buildings and churches, friendly people, many pubs to relax in, and an incredible amount of impressions. You should definitely take your time for Copenhagen. The Gefion Fountain is, for example, one of the oldest monuments in the city.

Today my project takes me to the Engadin. Vinadi (German: vineyard) is the easternmost village in the canton of Graubünden and also the lowest located place in the Engadin. The namesake post bus station is the easternmost of the Swiss public transport network.

Historically, Vinadi was an important border and customs point in the 19th century. Today, the hamlet located directly on the Inn belongs to the district of Martina in the municipality of Valsot. Until 1815, Vinadi marked the border of the Old Confederation. It was only in 1848 that the official Swiss customs and border post was relocated to the nearby Martina (Martinsbrug). However, the left bank of the Inn remained Swiss territory up to Vinadi. The German name “Weinberg” is misleading, as there were never vineyards there. It instead derives from a linguistic reinterpretation of the older term “wimberg” for a local spring.

Enough of this useless knowledge. First, one has to get there. The train rolls charmingly along the banks of Lake Walensee. I have the entire upper deck to myself and can enjoy the coolness and tranquility. From Landquart, two train sections with different destinations continue on via Klosters. This elicits exciting reactions from inexperienced travelers, ranging from confused “Huh?” to frantic compartment changes. In Klosters, the trains are separated. Up until then, all passengers are well sorted and can continue their journey to their destination.

Coming from a heat- and drought-stricken rest of Switzerland, I now marvel at the lush green meadows, forests in summer splendor, and bubbling springs in 'Prettygau.' This is truly a treat, after we have been running the bare minimum at home for weeks.

We chug along the Vereina line to Scuol-Tarasp, the easternmost station of the RhB network. The Vereina tunnel is the longest meter-gauge tunnel in the world at 19 km. Alongside all the fantastic engineering marvels, this is another railway record that fills the sons and daughters of the Swiss railways with pride.

In Scuol, summer camps of the schools from Kriens are also regularly held. I was also lucky once to experience this. Luckily, there were no mobile phones back then. Therefore, we cover my heroic deeds with the merciful mantle of silence.

Vinadi itself is quickly explored: an abandoned customs station, a rundown Ustaria, and a decommissioned Pinzgauer - c'est tout! A veritable lost place. So, I searched for a shadowy spot, conjured up a picnic from my backpack, and there you have a first-class meal. My thoughts drift back 40 years to the half adventurous exploits we had with the 4li4-Pinzgauer. A legendary vehicle - still in military action today in the Ukraine.

The return journey unfolds in a typically Swiss unremarkable manner. All connections work, all trains have space, are clean and air-conditioned. Only the transfers feel like visits to a convection oven. SBB, there is still room for improvement!

Today we had something a bit more sporty on the agenda. We planned the Pizol hike near Sargans and Bad Ragaz, which is actually known as the Five-Lakes hike. It sounded like an ambitious but doable plan. At least in theory.

The first problem was, as so often, the timing. We were significantly later at the top than planned, and somehow we had envisioned the whole thing being a bit simpler. At the latest on the first elevation meters, it became clear that we had overestimated ourselves a bit.

In the end, we managed to see exactly one of the five lakes. However, we truly enjoyed that one. The view up there was definitely worth the effort, even if our legs may have thought otherwise at that moment.

Before taking the gondola back down, we treated ourselves to a very late lunch.

In the end, it wasn't quite the hike we had envisioned, but one lake, a great view, and a late meal with mountain panorama is actually a really nice result.

The Ringebu Stave Church is located about 189 km (approximately 3 hours of driving time) southeast of the historic pass road Gamle Strynefjellsvegen. The route goes over the Rv15 through the Ottadal and further into the Gudbrandstdal on the E6.

Built around the year 1220 (with wood partially dated to 1192/93).

It is one of the 28 remaining Norwegian stave churches and is one of the largest of its kind.

Converted to a cruciform church around 1630 and fitted with a red steeple.

Houses medieval carvings (animal ornaments at the west portal) as well as an altar piece from the 1680s. Over the Gamle Strynefjellsveg.

The journey continues through simply beautiful landscapes, over Lillehammer, Hamar, where Kurt tries his luck fishing one last time, but no fish wants to bite. We prepare our rental car for return early in the morning, refueling, removing everything that belongs to us, and we are ready to go.

The Gamle Strynefjellsvegen (Provincial Road Fv 258) is a 27-kilometer-long historic gravel road in Norway. It runs between the towns of Grotli and Videsæter over a barren mountain height of up to 1139 meters. This picturesque mountain pass is one of the official Norwegian scenic routes. The road was painstakingly carved from stone by hand between 1881 and 1894 and is lined with traditional stone walls as well as long rows of white guideposts. Due to heavy snowfall, the route is only passable during the summer months from May to September.

The Hjørundfjord is a fjord in the traditional district of Sunnmøre in the Norwegian province of Møre og Romsdal. It is primarily located in the municipality of Ørsta, with part of the fjord mouth belonging to the municipality of Sykkylven and the innermost part of the fjord belonging to the municipality of Volda. The 20-kilometer-long fjord is a sidearm of the larger Storfjord. The villages along its shores include Molaupen, Hundeidvik, Trandal, Sæbø, and Store-Standal.

The Hjørundfjord is surrounded by the Summør mountains, with peaks such as Skårasalen and Skopphorn rising up to 1700 meters (5600 feet) above the fjord. Both shores of the fjord are densely wooded, which is due to the abundant rainfall in one of the rainiest fjords in the world.

In the evening, we will once again observe the puffins for the last time, combining it with a short hike to the Runde lighthouse (only up to the cliff).

The Runde Fyr is a historic lighthouse on the western Norwegian bird island of Runde. It was put into operation in 1767 and is the fourth oldest lighthouse in the country. The current concrete structure dates back to 1935. The lighthouse is situated on the northwest tip of the island and is a popular destination for hikers and nature enthusiasts.

 Built in 1935 as a successor to the older light from 1767.

 Since 2002, the lighthouse has operated fully automatically, leading to the withdrawal of the last keepers.

 The former keeper's house now serves as a self-service accommodation for up to 24 people.

One of the most famous and tallest Midsummer fires in the world is lit every year in Ålesund on the Saturday closest to the feast of St. John (June 23).

Slinningsbålet – the tallest fire in the world

Slinningsbålet is known for its former world record as the tallest bonfire built by humans. In 2016, it was added to the Guinness Book of Records with an impressive height of 47.4 meters – although the record has since been broken. Nevertheless, Slinningsbålet remains a spectacular sight, and the construction – entirely without tools or machines – is truly unique. Perhaps most impressive is that it is built by young people.

A long tradition

In the past, there were many Midsummer fires in Ålesund, and each neighborhood tried to build the tallest and most beautiful one.

However, in recent decades, Slinningsbålet has become the undisputed king of all bonfires – not just in Ålesund but throughout Norway. People from around the world come to witness the construction and experience the spectacle of the flames. For the young people who build the fire, teamwork, a sense of community, and preserving a valued tradition are at the forefront.

Built by youth with leftover materials

What makes this fire so special is the fact that it is completely handmade – by local youth, without cranes or special tools.

Every year on May 1, a group of young people aged about 13 to 22 years starts building from the peninsula of Hessa in Ålesund. They use disposable pallets that local businesses would otherwise throw away – instead, they donate them for the fire.

The youth work every evening after school – in all weather – until the fire is completed on the Saturday closest to St. John's Day (June 23). It requires hard work, discipline, and knowledge – skills passed down from generation to generation.

There is always one person who takes on the responsibility – the so-called “fire chief,” usually someone with particularly much experience.

The Saturday around June 23

The fire is lit on the Saturday closest to June 23 – at 9:00 PM. It takes a while for the flames to engulf the entire tower. When it finally collapses, the crowd cheers enthusiastically – and hundreds of boats in the fjord honk in joy.

The Midsummer fire tradition

The tradition of lighting a fire on Midsummer night dates back to ancient pagan festivals for the summer solstice. Later, it became part of the Christian celebrations for the feast day of John the Baptist (in Norwegian: Sankt Hans). The fire was meant to drive away evil spirits and symbolized purification and the power of nature.

In modern times, it has become a social event – with dancing, games, and communal meals around the fire. Collecting materials in the weeks beforehand is a fixed part of it.

Ørsta is located on the Norwegian west coast in the region of Sunnmøre. Approaching from the northwest, Ørstafjord, a branch of Vartdalsfjord, cuts into the southwestern municipality area. Further east, the Hjørundfjord leads from the north into the land. The municipality borders Sykkylven to the east of Hjørundfjord on the mainland. The northern section of the boundary runs within the fjord. In the southeast, Ørsta borders Stranda, and to the south it borders Volda. Additionally, there are boundaries to the west and north along Vardalsfjord, where the municipalities of Ulstein, Hareid, and Sula border. There is also a boundary at one point to the northeast with the municipality of Ålesund.

The majority of the municipality's area is characterized by high mountains that are part of the Sunnmørsalpene (Sunnmøre Alps). There have been several accidents in the valleys of the municipality due to avalanches. The area typically drops steeply at the coast. The highest mountains are located in the southeastern part of the municipality, to the east of Hjørundfjord. The elevation Smørskredtindane there stands at 1630.5 m above sea level, making it the highest point in the municipality of Ørsta. In the southern part of the municipality, the river Bondalselva flows through the valley of Bondalen. At the village of Ørsta, at the end of Ørstafjord, the Storelva river flows into the sea.

I went rafting and explored the city.

Furthermore, this stop was my first time back in my own apartment in a long while, instead of staying in a hostel.

I'm now on the home stretch and I am looking forward to Germany again.

I'm already curious about how it will be in Zagreb.