We cross the fjord to Brattahlíð to pick up a group. It's the first time I've been on a boat full of people, since I've often traveled alone or with just 2-3 others so far. Afterwards, we head, you guessed it, full speed through the icebergs towards Narsaq.

The long day ends in Narsarsuaq, an airport used by Americans in the 1950s and 60s. It was then utilized by Denmark and Greenland until Qaqortoq opened in April 2026. Now there is nothing. Only a few people live on the vast grounds, the halls and terminal are empty. The hostel operator picks us up from the dock; otherwise, a long trek along the former runway would await us.

The hostel is a simple barrack, the walls are very thin, but it is nicely furnished and clean. For dinner, you can defrost frozen dishes in the microwave (don't turn on the kettle at the same time, or the fuse will blow!). Or you can walk a whole way back along the runway, there is a bistro in the dark building. The walk was worth it; the bistro offers a recommendable shrimp burger. For breakfast, there are extremely delicious homemade rolls at the hostel.

The fascination of the place is clearly the abandoned atmosphere and: mountain forests! In fact, large coniferous trees are scattered over the slopes. It could be a glimpse of an Austrian landscape. Unless you turn around and look at the former runway now interspersed with early plants.

With the old Toyota pickup, I am driven to the dock on the other side of the hill. At approximately 4 km, not really far, but the path here is more like a sea of sliding stones. During the drive, I spot a small forest - just a few hundred square meters and the trees maybe 3-4 meters high, but: a forest!

At the dock, the driver says goodbye. The boat will arrive in about half an hour. Now I stand completely alone in the middle of nowhere, it's raining. For a brief moment, the thought flashes through my mind of why I didn't just book an all-inclusive week in Mallorca. In the next second, my eyes focus on the icebergs lined up in the background like a string of pearls. And my soul is focused again. Grounded.

A short time later, the boat arrives - as always at full speed. I now suspect that Greenlandic boats only have two gears: 1 = slow for docking, 2 = full speed ahead.

Upon arriving in Brattahlíð, I bypass the tempting café on the right. A mistake, as it turns out later. In the rain, I walk through the small town the short kilometer to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the farm of Erik the Red, the discoverer of Greenland and father of Leif, the discoverer of America, and the first church built on Greenlandic soil, through Þjóðhildr, Erik the Red's wife. So, a really interesting, albeit rough family.

The ruins are even larger than in Igaliku, the grounds of the medieval farm are gigantic. The buildings are only preserved in outlines; therefore, a residential house and the church were constructed as impressive replicas. I was particularly looking forward to seeing them. Unfortunately, I found no indication anywhere that you have to register for a tour - the notice only appears on a sign on-site. So no interior tour. Torrential rain, and then that. I am grouchy. Still good one and a half hours until the boat picks me up. So, into the café at the harbor for something to eat to lift my spirits. I saw the offer of a guided tour there. Yes, darn it! If only I had gone to the café right at the start... Now I have neither the time nor the desire to walk the path again.

Together with a Dutch couple, I look forward to the (of course) full-speed approaching boat. Just before the dock, the engine cuts out. Hmmm, ride anyway? The equally unpleasant alternative: stay in the pouring rain in the middle of nowhere without my luggage (which was already taken to the destination before).

We head to the icebergs of Qooroq, much smaller than in the north at Ilulissat, but icebergs! Right up close! Full speed (I don't need to mention that, do I?) we race through the icebergs, sometimes making a sharp turn to avoid one. Fascination and fear alternate. At some point, we can’t go any further, the ice field becomes too dense. Unfortunately, the glacier is not visible due to the rain. However, an incredible pattering can be heard, the bursting of the millennia-old air bubbles trapped in the ice. Magical! The tour guide fishes a small piece of ice out of the water and serves us martini on the rocks. But that’s nothing compared to the enjoyment of the boat driver, who casually drives the bow into a cliff on the way to Narsarsuaq and has his assistant fill a bottle directly from the small waterfall.

In heavy rain, I set off to the harbor; the strong gusts of wind even turn my umbrella inside out. Not exactly the right weather for a nearly 50 km journey in a small boat. I'm feeling a bit uneasy. But the fjord is relatively calm. This boat, twice the size of yesterday's, powers through the waves at nearly 30 knots. It's no surprise that the captain has installed a cushioned seat.

Arriving in Igaliku right on time, the five passengers climb up the dock. There, an old-timer is already waiting to take us, along with our luggage, to the hotel. I didn't expect a ride for such a short distance—however, the 'roads' are made up of very large pebbles, making it rather uncomfortable to walk with luggage.

I'm staying in one of the cute cabins above the village with a fantastic view over the landscape: below is the almost turquoise shimmering fjord, in the distance the snow-capped mountains, some partially glaciated, and the few buildings of the village scattered across the grasslands, reminiscent of Iceland.

On my first walk (by the way, in a T-shirt), I'm surprised by the large solar array of the village. And for the first time, I see sheep in Greenland. Immediately, one of the shepherd dogs, which evidently roam freely here, follows me. Just like the chickens that stroll around in groups.

20 minutes by boat from Qaqortoq lies the ruin of the Viking church - according to the guidebook the best-preserved in Greenland. Built over 700 years ago, it still exudes a dignity that makes one remove their sun hat in reverence upon entering.

The Vikings, who moved here from Iceland just before the turn of the millennium, chose this sunny settlement spot: at the end of a bay, beneath a protective rock. Besides the church ruin, there is another ruin and various remnants of settlements that can only be recognized by stones and walls. Some flowers are blooming, in the distance gulls are screeching; otherwise, it is so quiet that you can hear every mosquito approaching.

In the wilderness, I encounter four Americans. They have followed the Vikings' route to America - only in reverse. Their sailing yacht is anchored in the bay, a dreamy spot for an overnight stay.

My two chauffeurs, on the other hand, take me back to Qaqortoq in a small boat, racing at nearly 30 knots and just in time before the rain hits.

Seven wonderful days on the MS Sarfaq Ittuk have now come to an end. Breathtaking landscapes (highlight: Ilulissat and the Iceberg Bay!), temperatures ranging from t-shirt to parka, fascinating people and their stories (the spiritual healer impressed me the most). The miles I’ve walked on the ship from port to starboard and back (perhaps there’s an even more beautiful iceberg visible on the other side?) and those I’ve explored heading up and down the hills in the towns.

The last day on the Sarfaq Ittuk brings another surprise: during the man-overboard drill, the ship almost spins on a dime. The crew made the extra effort to paint the dummy to be rescued, rather than just tossing a buoy overboard. Although this was announced as a drill, my blood pressure rose... I just fear that one might suffer a fatal heart attack upon falling into the icy water. So it’s better: don’t go overboard!

In the harbor of Qaqortoq, the next surprise: the Dagmar Aaen! The ship of Arved Fuchs, the famous polar explorer. They are on their way to Canada. You can follow their journey at https://www.arved-fuchs.de/de/

Strangely: with the background of the all-day, all-night diesel engine of the Sarfaq Ittuk, I was thinking about how lovely it would be to glide silently through the icy landscape on a sailing boat.

On the way back, we will stop by Nuuk again, but this time only for three hours, from 6:30 AM to 9:30 AM. Not great for museums, but it allows time for a quiet breakfast, without the fear of missing passing landscapes, icebergs, or whales... and there's also time for a walk in the harbor.

After the highlight of Ilulissat and Disko Bay, we will now head back south for almost a thousand kilometers.

Once again a rough night, spray reaching the window. But now, at the entrance to Diskobay, the Bay of Icebergs, calm sea - and: icebergs! The giants can already be seen on the horizon.

But first, a stop in Aasiat.

The approach to Nuuk was somewhat bumpy, the horizon swaying between the upper and lower edges of the window. Lying in the bunk is quite practical - you simply see more.

And what if the ship had encountered problems? Well, according to Donald the Great, both his hospital ship and many Chinese and Russian vessels are traveling in these waters.

I haven't seen any of them yet. Unfortunately, no whales either. Rarely a few birds. Nothing else but water, rocks, and increasingly more snow-capped peaks in the distance.

It's just mile by mile further north. But the warming sun is also missing. It has been raining in Nuuk all day today. Annoying for photography. Well, museums, libraries, and shopping centers will open soon.

=> https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qaqortoq

=> https://visitgreenland.com/de/destinations/qaqortoq/

To be continued...

Current altitude: 10,981m

Current speed: 909km/h

Current outside temperature: -42°C

Yes, (very slim) Wi-Fi on the plane.

During a discovery tour through the #old town with its dominant #towers and impressive half-timbered houses, you can dive into the world of ancient emperors and kings. Whether #Salier, #Staufer, or #Karolinger: Many ruling dynasties have left their mark on Waiblingen. The medieval city layout of Waiblingen began to take shape around the year 1250 and can still be seen in parts today.

Waiblingen is vibrant.

In the town on the Rems, #tradition and #modernity meet. A diverse #gastronomy, an attractive shopping offer, numerous festivals, and cultural events express the liveliness and openness of the district town of Rems-Murr. Since May 2008, the Stihl Waiblingen Gallery and the Lower Remstal Art School have opened their doors. The thematic focuses of the gallery are taken up by the art school. The close connection between the two institutions and the integration of exhibition elements into daily life at the art school are unique in Germany.

When the “Old Town Hall” at the #market square, with its ground-floor arcade from the Renaissance and its baroque half-timbered structure, was no longer sufficient for the growing city around 1870, plans were made to build a new structure at this location. However, since the appearance of the square would have been fundamentally altered, they reconsidered and the building first mentioned in 1476 and newly constructed in 1597 after the coat of arms stone was preserved. In the 1920s, the Old Town Hall became the first building in Waiblingen to have its half-timbering exposed.

Another beautiful half-timbered house with an ornate bay window, built around 1690, dominates the northern facade of the market square. Decorative embellishments, colloquially known as “Neidköpfe”, testify to the early Baroque's preference for the grotesque. From 1794 to 1819, this house housed the official writing office, followed by the Royal District Court on the ground floor until 1909, with the official residence of the district judges located on the upper floor. During the tenure of district judge Karl Mayer, who lived here with his family from 1824 to 1843, this house became a meeting point for well-known Württemberg poets and intellectuals such as Eduard Mörike, Nicolaus Lenau, and Justinus Kerner. Since 1910, the building has been used as a commercial house. In the Waiblingen old town, there is a particularity: many old houses have #Neidköpfe staring down at you, some threatening, some friendly. A walk through the alleys leads along the most impressive Waiblinger Neidköpfe. On the one hand, they served as house marks, giving the house a visible imprint and serving as identifying symbols for outsiders. On the other hand, the Neidköpfe indicated a certain wealth of the builder. But their primary purpose was to protect against the 'evil eye', a spell that could drain milk from nursing mothers or cause infants to wither away simply through a mere gaze. To ward off this gaze, a gesture known in all cultures for thousands of years was used: the stuck-out tongue.

The largely preserved and mostly walkable city wall leads from the Beinsteiner Gate along the Alder Island to the Apothecary Garden. The construction of the #city wall began around 1250 and took about 30 years. The accessible #walkway and the arrow slits transport one back to the 13th century. Through the arrow slits, one can gaze at Alder Island and the Rems.

The Beinsteiner gate tower is the only preserved city gate of the medieval city structure of Waiblingen. At the beginning of the postcard era in the early 20th century, the Beinsteiner Gate became a favorite motif and the city's business card. On its outer side, the coat of arms of the Württemberg Count Eberhard im Bart is emblazoned, carved in sandstone with the year 1491. Below it is a two-part sgraffito from the National Socialist era. The city’s connections with the Staufer dynasty were referenced through the Staufer knight and with the burning city model, flanked by two mercenaries, to the destruction during the Thirty Years' War in 1634. The lower part is based on a tradition that a Waiblingen flag bearer defended his flag against the League of Free Cities in a battle in 1519 even with severed hands on the side of Duke Ulrich. To this day, the Beinsteiner Gate is colloquially known as “Säuturm” (Pig Tower), as pigs were once driven here to graze on the Wasen.

Much more modern is the futuristic-looking Stihl Gallery in the city. The exhibition house showcases changing expositions on the theme of art. Thematically, it covers the fields of print graphics, watercolors, and collages as well as architecture and design. Waiblingen is also home to the headquarters of ANDREAS STIHL AG & Co. KG, including the main administration. In Factory 1 on Badstraße, you find 'STIHL Brand World', a company museum that brings STIHL to life and provides visitors with a knowledge platform on the topics of forests and forestry.

The #Talauenpark, with its meadows, trees, water, play, and adventure options, is one of the most beautiful places in Waiblingen. Near the Talauesee, there is a Kneipp basin. Scottish Highland cattle contribute to the ecological and economic balanced landscape maintenance in Waiblingen. The adventure golf course entices as does the skate bowl and the indoor pool with its outdoor pool and the bee information house.

One of the most beautiful hiking tours in Waiblingen runs along the #Rems. The river meanders through the city, offering idyllic views of green meadows, gentle hills, and historic buildings. This route is perfect for a leisurely stroll or a longer hike.

Another highlight is the #vineyards around Waiblingen, Korb, and high into the Remstal. Here, visitors can stroll between the vines on marked hiking paths and enjoy the magnificent view of the Remstal. Especially in autumn, when the leaves begin to change color, it’s worthwhile to explore this area.

Waiblingen in the beautiful Remstal holds a rich cultural heritage and a vibrant atmosphere that harmoniously combines tradition and modernity. The variety of gastronomic offerings, the attractive shopping options, and numerous cultural events reflect the openness and zest for life of this city. From the impressive half-timbered houses to the picturesque vineyards in the surroundings, Waiblingen invites you to experience history and enjoy the beauty of its nature.

#VisitBW #TourismusBW #ReisenBadenWürttemberg #entdeckediewelt #UrlaubinBW #FerienlandBW #bwjetzt #SehenswürdigkeitenBW #ErlebeBadenWürttemberg #wirsindsüden #DeutscheFachwerkstraße #denkmalschutz

Just after waking up, I saw an iceberg through the window of my cabin.

At breakfast, I could see the iceberg even better as our ship was now moving at a slow speed. The captain navigated our ship into the Prins Christian Sund, a fjord. We sailed for hours until we reached a glacier around noon.

Now the captain demonstrated that he could practically turn the ship in place. After that, we headed back to the open sea.

The entertainment program today mainly consisted of admiring the wonderful landscape and unfortunately unsuccessful whale watching.

To warm up, I watched the movie 'Spider-Man: No Way Home', but it didn't excite me.

In the theater, the Canadian singer Patricia Bernier performed in the evening, along with the comedian Robbie Printz, who kept us laughing continuously.

Oh dear, here we go again: what should we do with all the money? This time, we don't feel like drinking it all or spending it in the onboard shop... Hopefully, we will find a solution by the end of the trip, or we will let the credit expire.

Actually, the canceled tour suits us quite well. The weather has become so nice (compared to the previous day) and we decide to redo yesterday's tour, which we did in cold and windy rain, today, and to extend it a bit. Hopefully, we will be able to take more colorful pictures this time.

We set off again and pass by a house in the city center where there is a crowd of people. Initially, we thought this was the "Nuuk Sign" or the payout location for pensions or where you can pick up Greenlandic citizen money 😊... But as we get closer, we realize that everyone there is holding a mobile phone. Ah, there is free internet available here (it's a library), for whatever reason, since there is no McDonald's or Subway nearby.

We continue walking and visit the sights from yesterday, now with (unfortunately) many other ship guests. But the further we stray from the main paths and the more remote our route becomes, the more "lonely" it becomes around us. Both of us find this refreshing, and we discover beautiful spots that offer a wonderful view of the vastness and the residential areas. We climb over the rocky hills and wade through the marshy meadows, sinking in as if walking on a sponge. The water is only visible when we step on the ground.

We pass houses in various colors. There must be some kind of system, right? Later, we learn from the internet that, as we suspected, the colors of the houses must have something to do with the occupants. Blue houses belong to fishermen, red houses are community houses, such as schools and kindergartens, green houses are retail stores and home to business people, and yellow houses are occupied by school staff or people who work in social institutions.

On our way through the city, we once again wonder where the people are who live in the countless houses. At least there should be women and children to be seen, right? We also miss grocery stores and shops that are necessary for everyday life. In addition, the houses somehow look uninhabited. But there is a lot of construction going on here. So, this is where the promised social housing construction takes place... So, it's a big question mark for us...

At the very end of our path, we reach a spot on the shore where there is a sauna in a barrel-like structure. The side facing the sea is glazed, giving the sauna the best view... Cool idea!

On the way back, something curious: there is a device for dog poop bags installed on a street lamp, just like we have at home. But the crazy thing is that it has a German description of how to use the poop bags provided there. Is this a new project by Svenja Schulz, our Minister for Development Aid? Similar to the bike lanes in Peru? Now brand new: We are now showing the Greenlanders how to deal with dog waste in Germany... Great, unfortunately, we only saw one dog once during the two tours. Are there more perhaps? Maybe later, once people know how to handle dog poop...

After a good 15 kilometers up and down in Nuuk, we pass by our "local" iceberg, which is docked in the harbor, and take a photo of it. We hope to see icebergs on the open sea in the next few days. That would be more impressive...

So, enough about Nuuk - Tomorrow morning, on 10/07, we will arrive in Paamiut. There, the cradle of sperm whales and other marine animals is supposed to be... let's be surprised.

The morning after, we are greeted by the familiar weather of the last two days: low-hanging clouds, rainy weather, and a temperature of about 5°C. The weather report does not suggest that waiting for better weather would be worthwhile during the day.

The hope for a stable internet connection fades as we realize that although we are on or within Danish territory, the internet behaves as if we are outside. So, if you want to go on the internet, you have to buy a "Greenland package." We make the pact for each phone for 40 euros. Of course, it works for Thorsten directly, but for me it says right away: You have already used up your 100MB package. You are welcome to buy another package, or if you have any questions, please contact customer service... (funny when you don't have internet...)... and I haven't even loaded or viewed anything yet... We don't want to risk it again, so I leave it be ☹.

After breakfast, we put on our Greenland dress. Ski underwear, thick socks, hiking pants, and hiking boots. In addition, gloves, weatherproof jacket, and warm woolen hat. And off we go on land!

Nuuk is not only the capital of Greenland but also the northernmost capital in the world. About 20,000 people live here, which is the majority of Greenland's total population of 60,000. The island is six times the size of Germany with 84 million people. So, there is still plenty of space here!

Throughout the island, there are only roads within the settlements. If you want to go from one place to another, you can only do so by boat or plane. And another novelty for Nuuk: this is the only Greenlandic city that has two traffic lights. In hindsight, we wonder if we saw them? I remember that we once stopped at a pedestrian traffic light and waited for green... was that one of them??? If we had known, we would have taken a picture of them.

As usual, the cruise ship port is an industrial area and greets us with the smell of fish. You can immediately imagine how money is made here. Once again, we don't take the paid shuttle to the city center, but we are happy that we can finally walk again.

The rain and the low clouds don't make it particularly enjoyable, but we are still excited to see the city. We walk towards the water, the designated "Boardwalk of Nuuk," and pass through an area where you have to consider whether you are in the deepest Romania, in Siberia, or actually in Greenland??? Prefab buildings at their best... with small windows and everything somewhat or even quite rundown. It is certainly obvious that they have a real problem here with depression, a high suicide rate, and alcoholism. We learn from the internet that every fifth Greenlander once attempts suicide. And this happens more often in summer (which surprises us a bit) because people are completely exhausted since they don't feel a night that brings them restful sleep. We would have thought that they cannot tolerate the constant darkness in the winter months...

It's summer, the day is long and bright, but the weather is not suitable for being outdoors... so people go to work, which mostly takes place in the cold and inhospitable, at least from our perspective. As we walk through the streets and see the people, we wonder how one can live here for a whole lifetime... but we are not Greenlanders and cannot imagine that with our "civilized" way of life.

We visit some points that are said to be worth seeing when you are in Nuuk. There is the "Mother of the Sea," which, similar to the Little Mermaid in Copenhagen, is located at the edge of the sea and almost disappears in the water at high tide. She is the guardian of the sea creatures. The story says that she holds back the animals when they are not treated well (whatever that means) and the fishing is not sufficiently successful.

Or the Redeemer Church, built in 1846, in the middle of the colorful houses that are characteristic of Greenland or Iceland. The Redeemer Church, or "Annaassisitta," is the older of the two churches in Nuuk.

Otherwise, not much indicates that we are in Greenland. No snow, no igloos, no polar bears. Actually, we could also be in a Scottish or Norwegian harbor (or in bad weather in the Mülheimer Hafen in Kölle 😉)... If it weren't for the highlight (at least for us cruisers) in the harbor: an iceberg. Just like that: in the midst of the other smaller ships and a frigate... Question: how did it get here? Shouldn't it have melted long ago since it's raining and there are no below-zero temperatures? Is this an artificial object from the tourism office and is it here all year round?

Today, we will not be able to unravel the mystery because we have become completely soaked. After almost three hours of walking in constant rain and wind, despite our good clothing, we are now frozen and soaked and are looking forward to our sheltered and warming cabin.

Tomorrow is another day, and we will spend it in Nuuk as well. Let's see if we will go on the excursion to the mountain over 400 meters that we booked three days ago. If the weather doesn't change fundamentally, meaning the rain stops and the clouds clear, we don't have high hopes for the "climbing tour"...

We'll see!

The strange text on the toilet door in a café, like many things here, is poorly translated, thanks to Google:

There is a door buzzer on the door that must be activated from the bar.

We will experience Carnival in the Azores. - We are excited!

22 meter high Christmas tree...made of potholders!!!!

It's not like someone vomited in the toilet... it's poorly translated!

Here on the north coast of Fuerteventura there are corals that look like popcorn.

We discovered Udo L.’s painting on a motorhome.

The emergency exit under the wall is not accessible to us.

The postcard with the calendar from 2018...

There are also strange things to discover in Europe...

It's so much so different. So now another curious post.

Here in Ha Long everything is actually strange!

The whole place is designed for mass tourism - but there are more vacant properties than used properties.

I don't even want to know what it looks like here when 20% or more is inhabited and occupied....

Group showers with 400 people sounds tempting, right?

We have also learned a bit of Vietnamese: beer is called Bia🤣🍻

There are the brands: Ha Noi, Saigon and HaLong