Now it's finally happening. Quickly on the night before the trip, I gathered all the things that might be needed in three months, while not making my back any more crooked. 13.5 kg of luggage. That normally isn't even enough for an extended weekend in the garden around the corner... 8:57 am, I locked the apartment door in Dresden because the tram to the train station left at 9:00 am sharp. Done. The first step has been taken, and now there's no turning back. Deutsche Bahn is also sometimes on time and safely brings me to BER, and now the time begins between waiting, sitting around, flying, waiting, sitting around, flying... It took 27 hours from my apartment in Dresden to reach the hotel in Bangkok (Dresden - Berlin - Amman - Bangkok). First interesting encounters: My seat neighbor to Amman, Segul, told me that today, on his 28th birthday, he is traveling back to his Syrian homeland for the first time in 15 years, to see the changes and possibly consider returning. Very interesting perspectives. On the second flight, I had a retired man from Cottbus sitting next to me, who entertained me with various episodes and tips from his 17 years of experience traveling in Thailand. I should particularly watch out for the young women, as he had fallen for that multiple times. Well, I didn't expect that. Well-informed with these and other insider tips, I arrived in Bangkok ahead of schedule. There: No problems with the ultra-fast immigration. I could have saved the $10 for my 'fake' (but legal) exit flight to Vietnam on February 11. I found my pre-booked taxi pretty quickly too. However, when I had to explain the way to the hotel to the taxi driver, I was a bit perplexed for the first time. When the station where he initially wanted to drop me off in a strangely appearing back alley hotel was about 20 km away from my actual hotel according to my Google Maps understanding, I started to sweat a little. But it was also 31 degrees warm. Luckily, the misunderstanding cleared up. And through clever - maneuvers unknown to the common European - the lost time was made up on the Bangkok city traffic, so I could check in on time at my place for the next five nights... I spent another couple of hours exploring the surroundings on foot and getting settled, but after 27 hours of travel and time and temperature change, I couldn’t handle more... Tomorrow, the first agenda items are on the list. I'm excited... Long story short: the first sign of life has been sent ... Greetings and see you soon

Well, thank God we were already on the ground and so our tour could begin the next day.

The first impression was good and the food was very tasty. Falafel, hummus, bread, tea and a shisha, we didn't need much more than that.

The citadel, the Roman theater and the "downtown" in Amman are really worth seeing!

We continued down towards Petra for about 3.5 hours. Our car is a complete wreck, but if you take the cheapest fare, you shouldn't be surprised.

I quickly found out that the whole thing starts to vibrate wildly at 100km and at 110km everything is "normal" again, but much faster is not possible due to the road conditions and is not allowed anyway. When we arrived in Petra we went straight to the famous treasury and were amazed that we were almost alone walking the impressive path through the valley. There weren't really many people to be seen in front of the main attraction either.

Since there was not much going on in the whole city, we decided against a visit at sunrise and instead slept well and drove towards "Little Petra" to be taken to the monastery in a jeep. A relaxed 1 ½ hour hike with a beautiful view lay ahead of us before we reached the impressive monastery.

After a freshly squeezed grenadine juice, we walked about 9km back to the car, past various tombs, houses, treasure chambers and temples, absolutely impressive!

Then we took our "car" to the garage, we had a flat tire. For 10 dinars our tire was patched within 20 minutes, well, if it's that easy...

Afterwards we headed north again to the Dead Sea and the lowest point on earth (outside the water) about -420 meters below sea level.

The temperature difference was enormous and all the heat accumulated in the valley of the Dead Sea (36 degrees). I had imagined the landscape to be more beautiful and there aren't really any beaches for swimming, and in the really scorching heat you have to walk about a kilometer down from the road to the water, as the water level drops by about a meter every year. Our accommodation was in Karak, as there was no affordable accommodation at the Dead Sea and the air was simply unbearable (Karak is about 1400 meters higher).

Karak is a bit run down and apart from a really impressive castle there is not much to see. The next day we went back down to the Dead Sea into the "Wadi Mujib" canyon, which we were allowed to explore on our own after paying the appropriate amount. Equipped with a life jacket, we went into the cool, impressive canyon in 36 degree heat.

We drove our car back along the mountain road to Karak. At least you don't have to brake when going uphill, so the whole car only vibrated when going downhill. Well, as long as it brakes at all, everything is OK. The vibration has now caused the rear bumper to come loose and more cracks are appearing in the paint and filler, but at least we've got almost half of them!

From Karak we continued on to Dana National Park with a stop at the “Afra hot springs”. After Google once again wanted to send us on adventurous routes that we no longer thought our car could manage, we finally reached our destination via a detour. Unfortunately, the pools that were visible in the photos were a bit old and only men were allowed to swim there. There was a separate room for women where the water ran after it had run through the men's pools. The room had two sparse windows, so you really couldn't see in from the outside. It was correspondingly dark inside and didn't smell very pleasant, or so I was told. It didn't spoil the fun for the Jordanian women and children. Since it was Friday and the Jordanians were on their weekend trips, we were provided with tea, cake, nuts, chips and drinks. Some North African countries could learn a thing or two from their hospitality, and most Germans could too...

Generally, the first question is always where you come from.

"Germany", "Very good, welcome to Jordan" is usually the answer and we can drive on without any problems at the numerous traffic checks. It doesn't matter that our car's registration has already expired, but the police assured us that we can continue driving. Our landlord has to pay the fine, "for you no problem, welcome to Jordan".

When we arrived at Dana National Park, we decided against going hiking. We had imagined it to be a little greener and a little less strenuous, as the hiking trails all led down into the canyon. So we enjoyed the sunset and had dinner in a Bedouin tent. The next morning we watched the first hikers from our hut and then set off punctually for the Wadi Rum desert.

After another 100km, which our vehicle survived without any further damage, we continued in a pick-up truck to Wadi Rum, which has already been the backdrop for numerous films (Lawrence of Arabia, Star Wars, Dune etc.) and, as it quickly turned out, absolutely deservedly so. Lots of towering rocks and mountains, followed by green gorges and wide sandy areas that are reminiscent of another planet. After various small climbs, hikes and teas in Bedouin tents, we reached our camp at sunset. Amazingly, there was a real shower and a real toilet, which I really didn't expect in the desert and actually knew it was different (https://vakantio.de/su-di-du-lich/egypt-kairo-wuste).

We spent the evening around the campfire drinking tea and playing cards. The next morning, right after sunrise at 9 a.m., we continued on to the border with Saudi Arabia, with some really amazing views. Camels kept crossing our route, and we were able to feed them from time to time, but the smell of these animals takes some getting used to. Just for fun, I told our driver that I absolutely had to try camel milk again in the next few days. I hadn't even finished saying the words when he started to fiddle with the camel's teats and I had a warm cup of camel milk to try. Yummy!

We spent the second night under the open sky, or rather under a small rocky outcrop, and I was able to prove myself as a desert driver for the first time. I had imagined it would be harder and we didn't have to dig out the pickup truck once. I liked the night under the open sky much better, but to be honest, the whole thing was a bit too close to civilization and a bit too comfortable for a tour through the desert, and I would prefer the Egyptian desert for an adventure.

We have now arrived in Aqaba. We have booked a resort with a pool and private beach about 15 km south of the city center. We then drive into the city for dinner. 40 degrees is forecast for the next three days, but the fresh wind makes it bearable. I will go diving two or three more times, then we will drive back to the Dead Sea and look for a beach where we can go swimming properly. We will spend the last night in Madaba, near the airport.

Let's hope that our car holds up, that the airspace over Jordan remains open and that we can find our destination without GPS. The Israel, Gaza and Iran conflict has disrupted the GPS signal and my location is constantly shown as Cairo. This means that the satnav doesn't work and you have to drive by map like before, but it's worked quite well so far!

As always, we arrived in the port of Akaba early in the morning. Akaba is located on the Red Sea. It is a city with around 150,000 inhabitants and has Jordan's only seaport. The city and its surroundings form a free trade zone.

It is not an ultra-modern city like Abu Dhabi or Dubai. Jordan also seems to be significantly poorer, which is not surprising with an unemployment rate of 30%. However, the city center is attractive, while the surrounding areas are not as nice, and there is a lot of garbage everywhere.

The journey from Akaba to Petra takes about two hours. It took us a little longer because the highway was partially closed due to recent storms, and there was an accident on the detour route.

The landscape is quite spectacular, with a lot of desert and strange, multi-colored rock formations. Unfortunately, it also rained, and combined with the cool temperature, there was dense fog at times. The photos reflect this, and there was occasionally water on the camera lens in Petra.

The Nabataean rock city of Petra had its heyday in the first century AD and was located at a trade junction. It included a port on the Red Sea and in the Mediterranean. It provided logistical services for transporting goods from the Red Sea to the Mediterranean, which reportedly cost about a quarter of the value of the goods themselves. With the Romans changing trade routes, the importance of the city declined, and a later major earthquake probably finished it off.

The city had a large surrounding area for both agriculture and irrigation. The Nabataeans were apparently excellent in water engineering and even built reservoirs. However, the area had already been inhabited since the Stone Age, before the Nabataeans.

Petra is sensational. We knew how long the access through the gorge to the heart of Petra was, but it was still longer than expected. There is already a lot to see in this access, such as herds of sheep and goats, inhabited caves, small rock buildings, small and large water channels, and, of course, a huge number of other tourists until you finally reach the Treasury of Petra.

Unfortunately, we only had three hours to visit, which is just enough to walk the main path and see a few side attractions. This time is not enough to visit the museum, various current excavation sites, and more.

Tomorrow we will continue to the Suez Canal and merge there. That means the day after tomorrow we will anchor at the canal entrance until we pass through early the following morning and then continue towards Naples in the Mediterranean.

Building a fire and grilling is simply a must.

Unfortunately, the four weeks with our ladies passed by way too quickly.

We are already looking forward to the next time, somewhere in this beautiful world.

We arrive at our hotel in Amman. I left some things there that I didn't need. Now it's time to play Tetris and fit everything in the suitcase.

Unfortunately, I didn't have any time to visit Amman. In the evening, I would like to at least experience breaking the fast in the city and eat mansaf, a traditional lamb dish cooked in milk.

The taxi driver drops us off at a completely wrong location, but we only have to walk for 10 minutes: at least we can explore the city a bit. We arrive in Downtown Amman 5 minutes before breaking the fast. Plastic tables and chairs are everywhere, people have already sat down and placed packages of dates, a bottle of water, and cigarette packs in front of them. The holy trinity! The call to prayer sounds, happily people take their first sip of water, light a cigarette, and enjoy eating the dates (yes, mostly in that order. It seems that one can go longer without food than without nicotine).

We are also offered dates. It would be a nice atmosphere if it weren't so freezing cold. Today it's 2 degrees in Amman, and it even snowed in Petra last night. People don't mind, first priority is food. Towers of food are served, people devour it - and 10 minutes later, some are already leaving. The magical moment is quickly over.

The others from the group got lost, there are only two of us left and we are looking for the restaurant that was recommended to us. We actually get mansaf there! Next to us is a group of teenagers who are eating the dish with their hands. I prefer not to do that... It tastes good, the lamb is excellent, but the milk soup is a bit too sour for me. When the teenagers next to us all start smoking, we leave. I notice that this is the first time I've seen more women than men in this restaurant. Especially unveiled women. I found it extreme how few women are present on the street. Everywhere there are men, standing, sitting, talking, waiting. I hardly see any women. It would have been one of the things I would have liked to learn more about from our guide. But he has already said goodbye and so it remains a little mystery. I stop by the restaurant where we had our cooking class, as I wanted to buy something. The chef is not there, but she organizes the products for me over the phone - I wait in the office of the restaurant owner. Interesting insight into his daily life: opposite his desk are two huge screens that transmit live images from at least 30 different cameras in all of his restaurants. Creepy!

The next morning I have to get up early, which is why I'm already back at the hotel at 9 p.m. Now I just have to pack the things I bought today into the suitcase...

Tomorrow I'm going to the beach in Egypt for a few days. Air Egypt lives up to its reputation and cancels my flight. Let's see how I can get there without having to wait 10 hours at the airport in Cairo.

Let's go, this time more focused through the Siq. I notice many more details, many more carvings in the stone. And this time I also leave my phone in my pocket when I step out of the Siq and stand in front of the Treasury. Today I notice how red the stone is. Yesterday I had my sunglasses on the whole time. But today it's cool and cloudy, so no need for sunglasses. The colors are completely different, much more intense. Unfortunately, you can hardly see that in the photos - that's because my phone camera is unfortunately too bad. I have to invest in a better one and unfortunately I have to do it sooner than I would like: yesterday I suddenly got a crack in the screen... You have to look at it positively: better now than at the beginning of the trip!

I linger in front of the Treasury for a long time, so long that it's too late to take the non-dangerous, but very long path to the viewpoint of the Treasury. If my parents are reading this: there is definitely a path that is not dangerous. :) But this path takes 90 minutes, which would be too long because we're leaving again at 11 o'clock. What the guides do for a fee is to climb to other viewpoints on fast and very steep paths. Not suitable for everyone.

So there isn't much time left after the Treasury, I take a look at the Royal Tombs, have a warming tea, and go back.

Today we drive further south, to Wadi Rum. I'm really looking forward to it because we will spend a night in the desert. I have chosen the luxury version (I'm still me and therefore glamping, not camping...), which means that we are in tents with real beds, a bathroom, and air conditioning.

After a good 2 hours drive, we reach the visitor center. Our guide has to register us there because it is both a nature reserve. On the other hand, many people go on their own and quickly get lost - even if you think you are good at orienteering: it's not quite that easy in the desert.

We drive off with pickup trucks and visit some beautiful viewpoints, climb a dune (ouch, my calves!), see rock drawings that are 3500 years old... I LOVE the landscape of the desert, it evokes something very deep within you. Here, you are completely at the mercy of nature: the sand infiltrates everywhere, the wind has little to stop it except for the already heavily eroded rocks. The sun shines mercilessly, there is hardly any shade. The temperature is freezing cold and yet very warm in the sun... In short: extremes. The jeep ride is great, but after a few hours it gets very chilly. We settle into our luxury tents at the campsite and have to turn on the heater. So, I have to sleep like that at night, despite good insulation (for a tent, that is), it's cold, the tip of my nose is icy.

In the evening, I can hardly keep my eyes open, but I really want to look at the starry sky. You can see many stars, but the visibility is not ideal because clouds are forming. That doesn't matter, I can't stand it for more than 20 minutes anyway, and I stay the longest - everyone else has fled from the icy wind. I have to admit that I asked for one of the camel hair coats that everyone here wears in the camp and received one: not camel hair, but at least another layer against the cold and wind. I also had to buy a hat and gloves in Petra and it was worth it! But now quickly under the warm blanket and warm up.

Finally, the time has come - we start at 7.30 am, it's only a 5-minute walk from our hotel to the entrance. We walk through the Siq, the 'shaft', through an almost 70 meters deep canyon. After 1.5km, it comes into view: the Treasury. Like so many others, I film the last steps, from the Siq until the Treasury is fully revealed. I regret that afterwards, actually, you shouldn't see it for the first time through the lens...

But now I'm standing in front of it and I'm almost moved to tears. It's majestic. I simply can't understand how something like this can be carved out of rocks - mistakes are not allowed. The Nabataeans must have been truly outstanding artists. 

I can't help but think of Indiana Jones. I'm not the only one: I overhear some people saying, walk to the left, that's how Indiana saw it. It's also no coincidence that there are shops with the name 'Indiana Jones Market' or 'Indy Shop' at the entrance. 

What you never see in the movie or in photos, of course, are the many other people. Everyone congregates here in front of the Treasury. Right at that moment, I decide that I will come back again tomorrow morning, because we have a 2-day pass. Slowly, we continue walking along the main path towards the Royal Tombs, which are just as impressive and even larger than the Treasury. However, they are less well preserved and therefore probably less known. As I look at all the monuments, I think: how did they carve this out of the rock (an amphitheater?!)? It remains a mystery - but it seems that, as highly successful traders in a strategically excellent location, they had enough money to hire the best artists and craftsmen. 

We also visit the Monastery: 900 steps up and down. I was a bit worried before this ascent (or rather descent) because I didn't know the condition of the stairs. After all, they are carved out of the rock. With good sneakers or trekking shoes, they are no problem. I definitely wouldn't want to climb them if it was raining: slippery! The footwear of some visitors is also questionable, I don't want to look too closely. Along the way, there are stalls where you can buy souvenirs. After about 40 minutes, we reach the top - wow! The Monastery is gigantic! We (meaning me and someone else from the group) climb onto one of the surrounding rocks and enjoy our lunch with a view of the Monastery. 

Afterwards, we continue walking to the 'best view' (there are at least 5 of them up here). From up here, you can see all the way to Israel. But above all, you can see the many different types of rocks: sandstone, limestone, granite. We have tea at one of the stalls, owned by one of the Bedouins. We simply have to take a photo with him because he has such an interesting face and says he looks like the Jordanian Jack Sparrow himself! 

Once we have returned from the Monastery, we take a different route back to the main path (via the Lion Winged Temple and the Church). It's so exciting to see how the Nabataeans incorporated all kinds of influences into their dwellings and art. You can find Greek, Roman, and Egyptian styles mixed with the style of the Nabataeans themselves. 

The day was long, we only got back to the hotel shortly before 5.30 pm. I still need to process the impressions of the day, you see so many things that are hard to believe. 

I'm going back tomorrow, no question about it!

Not much of the castle remains. Saladin successfully conquered the castle after several sieges, and then it was expanded, rebuilt - and built over. Our guide has finally come to life a bit and tells mostly about Saladin and his successful campaigns. The crusaders don't come off well in these stories, but unfortunately, that seems to have been the reality as well.

Two participants have some difficulty visiting the ruins, they are not sure-footed and extremely slow. I wonder afterwards if that's why we only visited a small part of the castle, and how they plan to explore Petra exactly. There are apparently some interesting paths to discover in the castle, which unfortunately we didn't explore.

Our guide decides that we have enough time to visit Little Petra as well. Admission is free and it's only a few kilometers from Petra. It's significantly smaller than Petra and was also built by the Nabataeans.

The rock formations are very beautiful and you often wonder what the nature has created and what was done by human hands. It's not always easy to tell, which makes it even more exciting! According to our guide, you can compare Little Petra to Las Vegas: the traders would come here to eat, drink, and celebrate after successful days.

In one of the rooms, there are beautiful ceiling paintings to see. Unfortunately, they are gated. Apparently, the representations were removed for religious reasons, as they depicted nude angels and women.

After this day, we go to bed early because tomorrow is all about exploring Petra!

If you have some time in Jordan, the visit is recommended, you don't need to plan more than a few hours.

On the way to Madaba, we stop at Mount Nebo. According to the Bible, this is where Moses was shown the promised land by God. In fact, from Mount Nebo you can see Jericho and get an idea of Jerusalem. But you shouldn't miss the Dead Sea - we'll go there later today.

In Madaba, you should especially visit the mosaic in St. George's Church. It is the oldest cartographic representation of the Holy Land. Jerusalem is depicted quite accurately, thanks to the buildings on the mosaic, it could be dated. 

I also visit the burnt palace and the Church of Mary. You mainly see mosaics, the structures of the buildings are only rudimentary. Normally, these sights cost an entrance fee (1-3 JOD), but I can get in for free everywhere: at the first entrance, someone whispers to me at the entrance that I should say I left my Jordan Pass in the hotel. After that, he wants to guide me through the ruins and it is clear that he expects a corresponding reward for it. I decline and explore on my own. At the second entrance, the lady at the cash desk is snoozing. I better not wake her up... 

Afterwards, I go to St. John's Church, which is located a bit higher on the hill. The church itself is not so exciting but beautiful (from the 20th century). But you can see some ancient remains of the building in the crypt, on which the church is built. Furthermore, you can climb the tower. I do that, but I find it quite adventurous. I'm pretty glad that no one else is up there, it's too narrow! I usually don't have a fear of heights, but up there I feel uneasy. The view from above is beautiful, but it's so narrow that I can't walk around the tower. 

Back to the bus and now off to the Dead Sea! After a 50-minute drive, we're there and I go straight to the hotel beach to float in the saltwater. Lots of hustle and bustle around me, interrupted by a scream when someone gets saltwater in their eyes. Hehe.

In the evening, I treat myself to a beer and I have to say that although it is incredibly expensive - it still can't surpass some Zurich prices. 

And then a great mountain hike, but carve the year into the mountain!

The girls are always there for sand games.

The city is known for the ruins of the ancient Gerasa from Roman-Greek times.

I find the drive exciting because the landscape is completely different from what I imagined. Since we arrived after sunset yesterday, we haven't really had a glimpse of Amman and the surroundings yet. The landscape is very green, Mediterranean and hilly. A huge change after the arid landscape in Egypt!

I'm not very happy with our guide. When we arrive in Jerash, he points to the Arch of Hadrian and says, it's made of limestone. It's old and big. I laugh, naively thinking it's a joke. It's not, no more information is given. Later, he points to a building and says, This is Artemis' temple. When we explore the ancient Jerash ourselves, we pass by the REAL Temple of Artemis, a building in a completely different location. I'm glad I have roaming, so at least I can get some information about Jerash. Unfortunately, the signs on site are not really informative either.

I explore Jerash on my own for almost 1 hour. Today couldn't be more beautiful: blue sky with white fluffy clouds and blooming meadow flowers. Occasionally a small flock of sheep grazing near the ruins. Idyllic. There is so much to explore and I would have liked to stay longer. Completely sweaty, I arrive at the bus. I underestimated the size of the area and had to run the last 600m. :)

I find the weather quite difficult to assess: it constantly changes from windy and rather cool to sunny and hot. You constantly have to put on or take off clothes. I miss my outdoor pants painfully, if only I had packed them! In fact, practically all tourists walk around in trekking shoes and outdoor gear - a good idea and I would definitely pack them next time.

After visiting Jerash, we grab a snack for lunch at a delicious bakery in the middle of Amman. The bakery is completely crowded, people are already buying food for the iftar in a few hours.

After a short break, we take part in a cooking class at 'The Jordanian Kitchen'. I really liked it - both the cooking itself and the result. But I prefer not to reveal too much about the amount of garlic used...

But the food was too early for me, it's only 6.30pm and we're already done. We walk along Rainbow Street to digest our dinner. The street is known for its shops and cafes. Only: iftar doesn't start until 6.50pm, and the street is completely deserted now! We would have liked to go back to the city center to experience iftar, because in all the alleys and sidewalks there were already tables set up with food that will be served at sunset. Even just before 7pm, nothing is happening on Rainbow Street, so we go back with a taxi driver who clearly hasn't eaten or drunk anything all day: his mood is extremely bad, but fortunately not his driving style.

As we drive, we meet young people on the street who hand out water and dates to the drivers. They are very cheerful and exuberant, and I feel that festive atmosphere again that I experienced in Egypt. Although we tell the driver to stop and break his fast, he doesn't want to. But his mood improves and he mumbles something about going home, lamb and chicken... It must be very difficult to not eat and especially not drink anything during the day for almost 30 days. I'm not quite sure how a country can function during Ramadan, but somehow it is possible.

Cooking by the fire is a must.

After flawless shunting and coupling of the museum train, we were then relieved from work again.

In the afternoon, the crowds were significantly larger and when the buses from the cruise ships arrive, there are supposed to be unbelievably many people.

We were lucky and the weather was also perfect for a visit.

Driving trucks is fun.

You can't refuse invitations for tea, we had a wonderful conversation as they could speak English very well.

Off to four weeks of travelling in Jordan, starting with archaeological cities and of course a visit to a workshop. The front drive shaft needs to be repaired, no problem in Jordan.

Then a visit to Madaba with its mosaics.

29.03.-01.04.2022 • Taxi to Aqaba, Francis and I met Julia and Clara again, who had stayed one more day in Wadi Rum. We were also accompanied by three Italians, Castore, Ricardo and Matteo, whom we had met in Wadi Rum. Together, we went out to eat, swim, transformed the hostel into a bar, and went diving. After my failed attempt to enter Saudi Arabia, I spent another two days in this sunny and lively city before heading back to Amman with the rental car from our new friends.

25th-29th March 2022 • From Wadi Musa, we took the bus to the Protected Area of Wadi Rum, a desert area in southeastern Jordan. We stayed in a camp that we got for a good price through the hostels in Petra. In the following days, we went on a safari, smoked shisha, explored the area on foot, and above all, enjoyed the tranquility.

March 21-24, 2022 • We took a bus to Wadi Musa, the city near the historic Petra. Upon arrival, we checked into Rafiki Hostel, which turned out to be the best decision in hindsight. The owner of the hostel spontaneously invited us on a tour to "Little Petra" and for breakfast, and in the evening, there was a party with beer where we got to meet many other travelers. The next two days, we visited the ruins of Petra itself, which consists of impressive and ancient houses and temples carved into stone. Unfortunately, there was no shortage of fake Bedouins trying to sell us trinkets or a ride on their camel or donkey. The owner of a shop across from the hostel first invited us for tea and later for dinner. Genuine hospitality indeed. The time in Wadi Musa was unique and definitely unforgettable.

16th-20th March 2022 • After a short but incredibly interesting flight from Alexandria, I arrived in the capital of Jordan, Amman, in the morning at -3°C. Over the next few days, I explored the city and its surroundings with some people from the hostel, went out to party, and caught a cold due to the drastic temperature difference compared to Egypt, which I then spent in the hostel. Overall, I really liked Amman. With a few new friends, we then set off to our next destination, the ancient city of Petra.

The historical city of Petra is located in a approximately 7km long canyon - we decide to start through the 'back door'. However, we have to walk about 5 km through the desert and overcome an altitude difference of about 800m. The hardest hiking tour we have ever done... We only encounter Bedouins occasionally (especially children herding goats).

The path is exhausting and goes through sand, weathered rocks, and where it gets really steep, luckily a few stairs.

First longer break after 2 hours before entering the back gate to ancient Petra. The great temple - carved out of the rock about 2300 years ago - here we meet the first other visitors coming towards us.

Then the descent - through narrow nature trails - on the right and left in the mountains, the first caves appear, some of which are still used today for cooking, resting, and overnight stays.

The pictures can hardly do it justice - you are impressed and the efforts have paid off. Some tourists take advantage of the offer to ride a donkey, mule, or camel. We are tempted too, but we continue to hold up bravely.

At the peak of the hike - the Treasury - known from some movies and also called the 7th World Wonder - we stay longer until we walk the last 20 minutes back to the city through the approximately 100m high canyon.

A great day. Would love to do it again with friends...

Friday/Saturday (weekend in Arab countries) - it promises to be beautiful but also crowded in Aqaba - so we decided to go 100km north - to ancient Petra. The interesting thing about this day: the journey there...

The sandstone mountains are impressive and gives the feeling of constant movement and decay, even though it appears mountainous. And for someone from the forest/water and meadow-filled region of North Brandenburg, the barren desert is as inhospitable as a trip to the moon. Yet people live here in small settlements and individual dwellings in the middle of the desert. One wonders where they live and how they sustain themselves and their camels, donkeys, and goats...

We start with the minibus and despite its 727,000 km, it still looks good and we trust its brakes as it often goes uphill/downhill.

We stop at the checkpoint - the entrance to the Aqaba region. There is only one official road to the sea in Jordan and this region is said to be the safest place in the entire Middle East.

We also have 'official' oncoming traffic on the highway, but we drive slowly and keep to the left - so nothing can happen.

Arrival in Wadi Musa, the town with many hotels - normally about 1 million visitors come here to start their hiking tour to the canyons of Petra, but more on that tomorrow...

Shopping is fun - even small shops seem to be open all the time. Next to our residential building, where we live with 4 Arabic families, there is a school - there seems to be music lessons in the courtyard - and we are woken up with beautiful (loud) children's songs.

On the way to the sea, we walk along many hotels and green-lined streets. The construction boom has been a bit stalled by the Corona. But we are happy that there are hardly any tourists. Jordan is still an insider tip.

There are sometimes small vegetable gardens between the hotels and the footpath on the promenade also goes directly over the construction site - nobody seems to mind.

The mountains, with its 1700m sandstone in the eastern background of Aqaba, look very bizarre and can be seen from anywhere in the city opposite the sea.

Coffee places directly by the water invite you to linger with smoothies and hot drinks. Only if you want to change for swimming, you have a little problem (if you are not at the official beach). The water is mostly turquoise - looks clean and with a bit of courage, you can go into the 20*C warm water. From a distance, you can see that I'm not from here.

Evening get-together - it's nice to stay connected with loved ones at home. It gets cold at night, but we sleep well.

Flying to Aqaba in March is a good idea, the temperatures are very spring-like (20 - 27C) and there are hardly any tourists here.
The Gulf of Aqaba - the eastern tip of the Red Sea -
here the Orient meets: Egypt, Israel, Saudi Arabia and of course Jordan.

Berlin Airport makes a great impression. The area seems huge to us: BER City. Terminal 1: you get the feeling they are waiting for guests, everything is very friendly and accommodating (...for Berlin standards), so we are at the gate after 30 minutes.

The views from the plane change quickly: green Brandenburg, snow-covered mountains, open sea and then over Israel, Jordan lots of desert... the mountains near Aqaba are flown over just above them, then there is a large loop and it descends over the water.

Aqaba Airport is small and cozy. From the airport it takes 10 minutes by taxi to the city. With our German/Jordanian friends, we take a leisurely stroll to the city for dinner by the sea. The Jordanian cuisine is well seasoned and served with fresh side dishes with chicken, fish, and lamb. Afterwards, a stroll through the market street: a wide range of goods. The main shopping time is between 8 PM and 12 AM. Now you see the most people here.

Just a quick hello to the Halo Sea. On the opposite side, the hotels on the Israeli side of the sea shine brightly.
Good night Aqaba! We will sleep well.

The ancient city of Petra ('The Rock') - this place has been inhabited for thousands of years and was expanded into a city carved into the rock by the Nabataeans, following the Edomites. This place is globally known, especially since Sinbad and Indiana Jones.

There is a main path that runs like a canyon through the city. It is a good idea to enter this city from the back door, the rock temple 'Al Deir'. Then you mostly walk downhill and the sights become more and more interesting.

Getting there is anything but easy. You can be dropped off about 5km away and then walk or take a donkey taxi. The path leads through pink/gray lunar landscapes, through various valleys and even more hills, and is sometimes adventurous. 500m can feel like 5km. But the effort is worth it for impressive pictures.

Arriving at the back door, the 47m high temple carved into the rock, time is forgotten. And then you can look forward to a descent of about 7 km through a canyon, with more than 2 thousand year old monuments and a dusty, bizarre nature.

Then, after walking through a narrow crevice in the rock, the famous Treasury comes into view - which makes this city one of the 7 Wonders of the World. Currently, there are not many people here and the place invites you to linger and have a coffee. From there, it is only about 20 minutes to the main entrance, the modern Petra. I would love to come back again.

The visit to Petra is planned for the weekend. A cheap and comfortable option for the approximately 250km journey is the JETT (a regular bus service that connects the most important points in the north and south (only 10 dinars to join).

Halfway through, there's a small break with toilets / coffee and the biggest souvenir shop ever...

I'm lucky with the hotel (Petra Heart). It was built shortly before the pandemic and it's probably the friendliest hotel I've ever experienced. Currently, I'm the only guest, and in addition to the beautiful room, there's a rooftop terrace with a view of the modern city amidst the mountains.

First, the historic 'suburb' Siq el-Barid (also known as Little Petra) is visited. And it truly lives up to its name... it gives you a taste of the real Petra. In addition to impressive buildings and caves from ancient times, hikers and climbers will also find something here. The Bedouins, who offer their handmade goods, fit the picture. And they've probably seen better times too.

As long as there have been humans, this place has been inhabited - Geras (Jerash). At the time of Jesus, it was mostly inhabited by Greeks and part of the Decapolis, beyond the Sea of Galilee... approximately 35km north of Amman (which was then called Philadelphia).

It even rains here sometimes and you can see flat but colorful rainbows.

The Greeks built their temples around 300 BC, the Romans then built a huge theater and an arena for chariot races next to it around 100 AD.

All of this together forms the best-preserved city from the Roman Empire (outside of Italy) and shows the lively activity that was already organized here at that time. And then, as now, Jehovah's name was made known here... www.jw.org... (search Gerasa)

On the way back, take a look at the green valley between Amman and the Syrian border, which is within reach, in the land of the Gerasenes in the area of the ancient Decapolis.