Estonian painting in a former fish cannery,

huge boulders in the water and on land,

Wonderfully secluded pitches by the sea, provided free of charge, breakfast also by the sea, of course.

Hike through an old fishing village along the beach and through pine and birch forests, stopping at "Altha Körts", a quaint restaurant with Estonian specialties such as Baltic herring and dark garlic bread.

And again and again, peace and solitude by large and small bodies of water.

A diverse and young cultural scene has spread around a former factory site here.

During our afternoon stroll through the Kalamaja district, we saw how well old wooden houses can be restored without looking freshly renovated, but rather preserving their old charm.

In the evening, we discovered a small but exquisite oriental restaurant in a backyard, which treated us to various culinary delights.

Day 1 – Early Start and Contrasts

The train to Tallinn departs at 7:26 AM. On the opposite platform, the last partygoers are still staggering back into the weekend. Most travelers around me stand yawning in the morning silence.

Upon arriving in Tallinn, I first head towards the Cathedral Square. The old town appears sleepy – almost deserted – and feels like an open history book.

The second coffee of the day takes me to the Rotermanni Quarter, the architectural heart of modernity.

Rotermanni isn't large, but it is impressive: avant-garde new buildings blend surprisingly harmoniously with the old brick facades of former factories. Where once there was sawing, weaving, milling, and distilling, I now stroll past little design shops and cafés. Once the realm of the influential Rotermann family, it is now an urban mix of old and new – just a stone's throw away from the medieval old town.

After 15,000 steps, fatigue and hunger set in. I make a detour to the market halls – right by the train station. There you can find everything: fresh fruits and vegetables, restaurants, antiques, second-hand treasures, and above all: life. It’s Saturday, and the whole of Tallinn seems to be out and about.

A lively ending to a full day.

Day 2 – A Sunday in Pastel

Today I start more relaxed. I take the tram to Kadriorg Palace, just managing to beat the first waves of tourist groups. Then a break in the park – on the grass, in the shade, between old trees. Tallinn takes Sunday slowly, and so do I.

I let myself drift aimlessly through the streets until it’s time to head back to camp in the early afternoon.

Day 3 – A Flat White and a Quiet Moment

I turn into a small alley – and see her from afar: a woman sitting in front of a small café reading. Yes, that’s exactly what I want now. I order a flat white and a pastry, sit down, and start reading. Shortly after, a man walks down the alley, stops, looks – and does just like me.

The scene feels like it’s painted. The city is silent at this moment.

A goal for today: the creative neighborhood of Telliskivi, which I've always missed before. So off I go! Here you can find everything that stimulates the creative heart: galleries, craft shops, colorful graffiti, art supplies, small shops, and charming cafés. It’s loud, colorful, lively – and very inspiring.

There’s still a bit of time before Frank lands in Tallinn. I spend it café-hopping – also to escape the thunderstorm and the rain.

Finally, Frank arrives. Luckily, I had asked the barista in the morning for tips on restaurants away from the tourist centers. So dinner is also sorted.

Full and satisfied, we head back to the van. This time together.

Day 4 – Catching Up and Anticipation

Today is a quick run-through. I show Frank everything I discovered in the last few days – from the old town to the Rotermanni Quarter, from cafés to Kadriorg Palace. But I also get to see something new: not far from the harbor, right by the water, there’s a massive concrete block – the Linnahall. From the outside, it looks more like a stranded spaceship or an abandoned bunker. Yet it was once one of the showcase projects of the Soviet era in Tallinn. Built in 1980 for the sailing competitions of the Olympic Games in Moscow, Tallinn was the host city for the water competitions back then.

There’s not much left of that glory today. The complex stands empty, crumbling away. The Linnahall is popular at sunset – or even at sunrise, when people come here after a long night of partying. The view over the sea and the quietness of the place feels almost timeless.

A highlight of the day: we step back into the Middle Ages. (Thank you, Nicole, for the tip) At 'Olde Hansa', there are no electric lights, no modern gadgets. Just candlelight, wooden benches, and medieval charm. I order a honey beer – Hallelujah! – and there’s incredibly delicious food. Everything feels very authentic and cozy.

In the afternoon, we finally book our ferry to Helsinki for the next day.

A little piece of luck.

Tallinn solo

At 7:26 in the morning, the train to Tallinn departs. On the platform across from mine, the last partygoers are just making their way home, while most people around me are quietly yawning and waiting.

Once I arrive in Tallinn, I head toward the Cathedral Hill. The old town is still mostly empty, peaceful, and quiet. For my second coffee of the day, I walk to Rotermanni, the city’s architecture district. Rotermanni isn’t very big, but it’s a real paradise for architects—or for anyone who dreams of becoming one. Modern, avant-garde buildings are cleverly combined with the old brick warehouses of the former Rotermann Company. In the late 19th century, the Rotermanns were one of the most influential merchant and industrial families in Tallinn. Where sawmills, textile factories, mills, and distilleries once stood, there are now little designer shops, stores, and cafés. The modern feel of this district contrasts sharply with the medieval old town, even though it’s only a short walk away.

After that little excursion, I’m already feeling quite tired—and I’ve hit the 15,000-step mark.

Since I’m hungry and the place is close to the station, I stop by the market halls. They really have everything—fruit, vegetables, antiques, and second-hand stalls. It’s Saturday, and it feels like all of Tallinn is out and about.

A lively ending to the day.

The second day starts a bit later. I take the tram to Kadriorg Palace and just manage to beat the first wave of tour groups. Then I lie down in the park for a while, taking a break on the grass. Tallinn starts its Sunday slowly—and so do I.

I wander through the city for a bit longer, without a plan, and make my way back to the camp in the early afternoon.

On day three, I turn into a little side street and spot a small café in the distance. A woman is sitting out front reading. Yes, that’s exactly what I want right now. I order a flat white and a pastry and get comfortable. Not long after, a man walks down the alley and does the same. There’s a nice feeling in the air.

I still have some time to pass before Frank’s flight lands. The rest of the day is spent café-hopping to stay dry as thunderstorms pass over the city. Luckily, I had asked the barista this morning for restaurant tips a bit outside the usual tourist areas. So dinner is sorted.

Afterwards, full and happy, we head back to the camper—now together.

Day four — Today is all about a quick tour. I show Frank everything I’ve discovered over the past few days—from the old town to the Rotermanni Quarter, from cafés to Kadriorg Palace. But even I get to see something new: not far from the harbor, right by the water, stands a massive block of concrete—the Linnahall. From the outside, it looks more like a stranded spaceship or an abandoned bunker. But once upon a time, it was one of the Soviet era’s prestige projects in Tallinn. It was built in 1980 for the sailing events of the Moscow Olympics. Back then, Tallinn was the host city for the water competitions.

There’s not much left of that glory now. The complex stands empty, slowly crumbling. People love to come here for sunset—or even sunrise after a long party night. There's something about the view over the sea and the silence of the place that feels strangely timeless.

One highlight of the day: we step back into the Middle Ages. At “Olde Hansa,” there are no electric lights, no modern gadgets. Just candlelight, wooden benches, and medieval charm. I order a honey beer—hallelujah!—and it’s absolutely delicious. The food is incredible too. Everything feels cozy, warm, and truly authentic.

And finally, we book our ferry to Helsinki for the next day. A little bit of luck.

As already announced, quite a few things are changing on our journey. The decision was not easy for us – especially for Frank. However, traveling with both the motorcycle and the bus at the same time turned out to be much more stressful than we initially wanted to admit. In the past weeks, there were repeated moments when one of us had to wait for the other. Frank frequently ended up either drenched or practically boiling in his motorcycle gear. Sometimes we took different routes, discovered beautiful places – but couldn’t experience them together.

Therefore, on Thursday, right after the ferry crossing, Frank took a different path: he is going back to Germany, putting the motorcycle in the garage – and we will restart with one vehicle.

I myself continued heading north and explored Lahemaa National Park. Old manors like Palmse and Kolga are nestled in dense forests and tell their own unique stories. In between, there were heavy rain showers, wet shoes, damp jackets – but also lots of tranquility, green avenues, mossy paths, and a hint of adventure.

When Plan A Hits the Road…

As already hinted at, things are starting to shift on our journey. The decision wasn’t easy – especially for Frank – but traveling with both the motorbike and the van turned out to be far more stressful than we initially wanted to admit. Over the past weeks, there were repeated moments where one of us had to wait for the other. Frank often ended up either soaked to the skin or practically cooked in his motorcycle gear. Sometimes we took different routes, stumbled upon beautiful spots – but couldn’t share them with each other.

So on Thursday, right after the ferry crossing, Frank took a different path: he’s heading back to Germany to put the motorbike in the garage – and we’ll restart the journey with just one vehicle.

I continued north and explored Lahemaa National Park. Historic manor houses like Palmse and Kolga lie nestled in deep forests and each has its own story to tell. In between came heavy downpours, wet shoes, damp jackets – but also quiet roads, green avenues, mossy trails, and a subtle sense of adventure.

Tallinn is a beautiful city, that's for sure. We'll be coming back!

To capture everything accurately, we would need so many pictures, which wouldn't work here. We had a wonderful day. The weather was just perfect, not too hot, not too cold, and filled with sunshine.

There are many churches, all beautifully preserved. So today we had a lot of 'time with Jesus'. Most buildings are also restored, offering beautiful views time and again. It's impossible to capture them all in a single photo, so we often just strolled through the old town, enjoying the atmosphere. Nice cafés and restaurants are everywhere, especially in the side streets where they're not too crowded.

Like Riga and Vilnius, Tallinn is not overly crowded either. However, there was a cruise ship in Tallinn today, which suddenly brought hundreds more tourists 😂. They initially followed a tour guide in large groups and then dispersed in the afternoon. Mostly Germans on board 🤣.

A visit to the Turg market hall was also worthwhile. It is located in the Telluskivi district, practically right behind our 'hotel'. That was our starting point for today.

Since Tallinn's old town is not very large, everything is easily reachable by foot. So today we took a few more steps, but with delicious breaks, it wasn't really exhausting. In the nice little shops, we also had several shopping stops.

Today we wanted to see what the European Capital of Culture 2024 has to offer.

TV Tower with Lunch

Old Town

This awareness of myself is not easy, but it works and it gave me a nice end to Tallinn. Does the process sound familiar? Yes! It was similar in Vilnius and, to be honest, in Riga too 😅

I skipped half the day at the beach after visiting the harbor and the area in the morning. I still enjoy the sun every day, but the wind didn't make the idea of swimming very appealing 🥶 Driven by my longing for a simple sandwich, I found one in a small backyard - Master Courtyard. Super tasty and with the best hot chocolate I've ever had ☺️

Unfortunately, the Architecture Museum is closed on Mondays, so I went to the Estonian Health Museum. Part of it has stuck in my mind. The information about gender and diversity was presented there in a pleasantly natural and clear way. It's nice to see that this topic is being given space in a public place like this. For interested readers of my blog, I have brought along a little guessing game about how long different creatures sleep 🤫 I'll give you the answer 😉

I met Dale in my room. A nice guy from the UK who happens to be traveling to Riga now and is staying in the hostel I was in. Have fun with Latvian folk dancing and karaoke 😁

Tomorrow I'll leave Tallinn by ferry and end my trip by spending two nights in Helsinki. I'm leaving the Baltic States with a very positive feeling and I'm sure I'll see them again 🙋‍♂️

I took a Flixbus from Riga to Tallinn on Saturday and was very glad that the air conditioning wasn't set too high. I got on in shorts and a t-shirt, but I didn't get sick 👍 After arriving at the hostel, I had a short time to do my shopping and settle in. Then it was time for the weekly pub crawl 😄 Together with a second hostel, two bars and a club were on the night program. The people we met in the second hostel were very cool and the 1-hour free beer countdown got you warmed up straight away 🍻 The club we ended up in felt good, the music was good and we had a long night 🕺

As I've known from my previous stops, the first evening always escalates a little. But since I've experienced this twice now, it didn't catch me off guard 😅 So nothing stood in the way of exploring Tallinn on Sunday. From the city wall to churches, squares and viewpoints, the old town had everything. I found the significantly higher number of German tourists a little annoying. But that could be due to the weekend. Afterwards I went to the market, which is much more modern than in Riga. And also much more expensive 🫠 In general, of the Baltic capitals, Tallinn is the most expensive and most geared towards tourists for me.

For the last day, I plan to do things that I really want to do. Maybe it will be possible to get in touch with the locals and get some interesting information about the region. From a wider perspective, it is of course also a good challenge to find things to do that I really look forward to. That's where the lack of exercise makes itself felt. I was really a bit jealous of the padel people, given the weather and the location 😅

There is no good closing sentence today, but you know that Monday will come one way or another 🤷‍♂️

The crossing only takes 2 hours. Seems like a badass ferry.

My theory: Sit outside on the deck, let the wind blow around your nose and freeze to death.

The reality:

Think, ferry! Fucking cruise ship!

And if, like me, you've never been on a boat like this before, you might be equally astonished. Because here, in addition to a supermarket, you can find everything you don't need.

So question of the day:

What's actually going on in Tallinn?

Climatic conditions here - the same as in Helsinki. Cold ass.

Small difference: Apparently the spreading here is not as good as in Finland. Because I laid down as soon as I walked out the door...

This also explains why all Estonians walk through the streets like penguins in a waddle step, super slowly. (I was just used to the Finns always being on their toes and running super fast.)

It is rumored that Tallinn has the most beautiful Christmas market in Europe.

Haha, yes we want to see that.

First destination: old town.

Check, Christmas market found.

Warmed up briefly with Glögi (Estonian for Gögli - Finnish for mulled wine) and continued exploring the area.

Oh, lo and behold! A spontaneous vantage point:

Was the risk worth it? Clear message from an old Soviet prison:

The atmosphere was spooky. When it all got too scary and too cold for me, I went to the seaplane port.

At least that's what I thought.

I must have arrived at a museum that also had a seaplane on display. And the rest? Matched the building.

Bucked. Now seriously. You could still “play” with most of the weapons and the other visitors were just super funny.

I can recommend it to anyone who wants to look at an old seaplane... well and has an affinity for weapons of war.

In any case, I'm surprised that humanity hasn't wiped itself out yet.
What was also not missing was a walk-in war submarine.

And when I had enough, I went out to eat something.

Decadent but awesome.

Best lives, I tell you.

I happily left Finland on the Helsinki-Tallinn ferry. The crossing takes 2 hours and is very relaxing when the Baltic Sea is calm. Tallinn is also behind me, unnoticed. Courage to gap 😁

I heard the third largest waterfall in Estonia rushing, was in a very surreal place in Rummu and discovered lots of beautiful city views in Haapsalu.

I also ate: soup and fish with buckwheat, all well seasoned with dill. Hmm, 40 years of culinary memories are brought back.

Here in Estonia, however, Russian is more distant than in Finland. In Haapsalu there are many accommodation options and accordingly many small restaurants. However, it is probably already off-season and everything is a bit empty. In any case, I was happy with banana and water today.

After a 2-hour flight, we arrived in Estonia, the northernmost country of the Baltic States, although Estonia itself sees itself more as a Scandinavian country.

 Estonia is located between Finland, Russia, and Latvia at a strategically important point on the Baltic Sea. This becomes visible when you look at the layout of the Old Town: Tallinn is built on a hill, surrounded by a defensive wall with watchtowers. Most attractions are located in the Old Town, such as the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, the city wall, and the old market.

Since we were here in winter, it was freezing cold, the streets were icy and slippery, with outside temperatures of -10 degrees.

On our first day, we explored the city center on our own and our path first led us to the city wall near the cathedral. The wall dates back to the Middle Ages and served to defend the city. Beneath the surface, there are also old catacombs that were used for various purposes. They served as shelters during World War II, as a refuge for the homeless, and as burial chambers for the medieval kings.

Opposite the city wall is the large Orthodox Cathedral, with its beautiful onion domes. I have a fondness for Orthodox churches! Funny story about the cathedral's domes: In the past, the domes were covered with gold leaf. The people in Tallinn were and still are mostly atheists and don't care much about religion, especially the religion of the former aggressor, Russia. When the golden decorations fell off during a storm, the citizens seized the treasures and the church remained "naked".

In the afternoon, we had booked a free walking tour through the Old Town to see the city through the eyes of a local. Julia led us through the city, telling anecdotes about the language, which is very similar to Finnish, and about the pursuing seagull.

For dinner, we decided to have soup in bread, as we hadn't had the chance to do so in Poland at the time and we wanted to make up for it. The beer was very tasty, the soup too, but a bit more expensive!

In our apartment, we almost felt like we were freezing to death, as our heating failed and we had to sleep in ski underwear and it was still freezing 🥶

The next morning, we had a nice breakfast. For me, classic black bread with salted butter and herring. Classic Baltic breakfast! Today, our path led us to the trendy district of Tallinn, where we had a great coffee, strolled through the neighborhoods with old wooden houses, and experienced a new concept of second-hand at a market.

Here, you list your items through an app, but they are physically stored here. If you like the item, you send the money to the owner via a QR code. Never experienced anything like this before. Estonia is a leader in digitalization anyway. Estonia is the undisputed number 1 in terms of digital landscape in the EU. Quote from Julia: If you don't have a startup, you're not a true Estonian!

Yesterday I booked a ferry for 9 o'clock, the accommodation was only five kilometers away from the ferry port, breakfast was ignored, so everything should be fine and icy smooth, you would think, right?

45 minutes before departure, you should be there, which meant for the ignoble Gaijin that he had to give Berta a kick at eight o'clock.

The waking, shrill thing wasn't forgotten either, and it was wake-up time at seven o'clock.

Everything went according to plan, the traveling ass was in Berta's saddle at 8 o'clock, but whoops, the forgetful one almost sweated the steel, fat chain on the front wheel!

Side stand out, get off and bang!

The noble Berta is lying on the left side...

Ass...

Did the fetid BOSAMO work sloppy, but no problem, quickly remove the chain and help Berta back onto the tires, it wasn't a big obstacle otherwise.

An accidentally present person developed an incredibly large and brave asshole side during this time and immediately fucked off, but pulling up went well alone.

The only problem was that the brake lever is on the other side of the handlebars and when lifting it, the front wheel realized its desire for freedom and expressed it very harshly.

A strap from the bag should help with that, but luckily someone came to help and the fat horse stood back on its hooves.

Off to the harbor, now there was fire on the roof because the whole action had taken 15 minutes.

Upon arriving at the harbor, the unworthy scoundrel was then told that he was five minutes late and at that very moment (Hollywood couldn't have staged it better), there was a fine downpour and the unworthy traveler was also soaking wet, while using unusually mild swear words...

The ferry is gone, the day is really fucked up and the mood is in the deepest, musty cellar.

Fortunately, BOSAMO got a place on the afternoon Schinaklangelegenheit, now had shitloads of time for a hearty breakfast, and Helsinki got much more attention.

The planned route for today was no longer possible, so Estonia will probably be worth a visit at a later date, as will the entire Baltics, as the fetid one had to realize that a third spoke also has its little problem and today's ride (with the stupid bike in mind) didn't bring much joy because there was constantly sweating under the helmet when unevenness in the terrain was detected.

P.S.: Are you detecting my mistakes? Oh, that doesn't make me sweat, gö!

As mentioned before, yesterday I decided to take a break from blogging. After a long nap in the morning and a simple breakfast, it started raining in the early afternoon - heavily! My roof tent is then a cozy retreat for dozing, reading - and thanks to Wi-Fi! - watching Netflix!

In the evening, I even managed to go on a short beach trip.

Today, I went on an island sightseeing tour in the southern part of the island Saaremaa. First, I visited the Kuressaare Bishop's Castle,known as Arensburg in German, in the capital city of Kuressaare.

The Kuressaare Bishop's Castle is one of the best preserved medieval castles in the Baltic states. The impressive structure, made of dolomite blocks, has preserved its original appearance to this day. Its characteristic feature is the five-story, 29-meter high tower called the "Long Hermann". Surrounding the Bishop's Castle is a spacious moat filled with water.

Today, the castle houses a museum showcasing the history of Saaremaa. The most fascinating part of the exhibition for me was a room dedicated to the topic of Vikings. The exhibition is small but well-curated, focusing on a special find. Starting in 2008, two Viking ships were excavated near Salme, containing the buried remains of 40 males. The exhibition provides detailed information on how these 40 Vikings met their demise.

A second equally impressive exhibition reveals details from the history of the so-called "Forest Brothers", national resistance groups that found themselves caught between the fronts during the turmoil of the Hitler-Stalin Pact. Even today, you can occasionally find buried milk cans on Saaremaa containing the belongings of resistance fighters.

But the rest of the castle is also worth seeing and well worth a visit. The well-preserved complex impressively demonstrates the amount of energy invested over centuries in maintaining such structures.

I dedicated the second part of my sightseeing to the south of the island, where a more than 53-meter high lighthouse stands, still sending its signal up to 15 km into the night. By the way, Saaremaa used to be a restricted area during Soviet times and served as a location for numerous air defense units and electronic surveillance specialists. I returned along a gravel road along the island's west coast. An absolutely dreamy route!

Now I'm enjoying the evening before heading back to the mainland and south tomorrow.

Since June 12th, I have been constantly on the move. Occasionally a day of rest, but I haven't really been able to rest. Maybe that will change now...

The highlight of today was my overnight spot. As usual, I looked for accommodation for today last night. Usually, I search for two or three alternatives in my destination area and then check on site. I often use the app Park4Night. So today I also had two favorites. After refueling and shopping, I quickly drove on good roads towards Virtsu. The ferry is already waiting there because today I'm going to the island of Saaremaa. To do this, you take the ferry from Virtsu to the island of Muhu, which is then connected to Saaremaa by a causeway. Saaremaa is the largest of the around 2300 islands of Estonia and has a lot to offer. That attracted me. Soon I will reach the first potential destination. A glance shows me that I estimated it well, but since it is only number 2 on my list, I will drive another 12 kilometers to the desired destination. I can always go back.

But then what unfolds before my eyes makes the thought of turning back quickly fade away. The area becomes a bit wilder, green, with trees and a sea view. The last 600 meters to the spot lead over a well-maintained gravel road. And then I'm there: a lonely farmhouse, trees, hedges, green meadows, a bored shepherd dog. I hardly got out of the car when the owner comes towards me and says with joy that I am the first Swiss person to come to him this season. The ice is broken. I am introduced to the infrastructure and then left alone to set up.

Today I will fully set up. I even take out the awning, which has so far lived a shady existence in the depths of the trunk. I will definitely stay here for more than one night. Then I quickly tried the washing machine and improvised a clothesline, and that's it. A shrimp cocktail rounds off the successful day. Sleep well, everyone. I will definitely enjoy it!

I dedicate a full day to Tallinn, the third capital of the Baltics. Of course, one day is not enough to fully explore such cities, but on one hand, this trip is meant to give me a first overview of the Baltics, and on the other hand, my need for people is usually fulfilled after a day.

So today, I went from my parking spot in the peripheral marina to the center of Tallinn by bike. And I can already tell you, this city is a gem! On one hand, you can find many great, well-preserved cultural highlights, and on the other hand, there is also a lot of modern, urban, vibrant life. So, I enjoy my little trip, sometimes riding on, sometimes pushing my bike. In the shady Cathedral Park, I take my lunch break before heading up to the impressive Dome Hill. Dome Hill not only houses cultural treasures, but it is also the seat of the Estonian government. The view up here is phenomenal, and I let the cool wind caress me before diving back into the hustle and bustle.

On the way back, I make a stop in the glamorous Rotermann Quarter. For me, it symbolizes the Baltic States' spirit of progress.

It is fascinating to stand at such a historical focal point. The Baltic States have repeatedly been the plaything of great powers, be it the Swedes, Germans, Russians, or Poles. It has only been in the past century that they have been on the path to lasting independence. The last major liberation began with the end of the Soviet Union. I still remember the Baltic Way, when people held hands on a 650-kilometer-long chain from Tallinn to Riga to Vilnius. This peaceful protest against the Soviet occupation was very characteristic of these joyful, courageous people. It is hoped that they will not become pawns of the powers again and that they can devote the coming years to the peaceful development of their countries.

Now, I enjoy an evening in the marina with buzzing boats, constant coming and going, and then later in the evening, a refreshing shower at the Sailsor's Home. By the way, I am in the sailing center where the sailing competitions of the 1980 Olympic Summer Games took place. These Olympic Games were boycotted by many countries, primarily due to the Soviet invasion of Afghanistan.

Tomorrow, I will slowly head south towards Klaipeda. In a week, I have booked a ferry back to Kiel.

Again today, a day with many highlights, two small mishaps, and a happy ending. I finally arrived in Tallinn in a good place. But let's start from the beginning.

I had a good night's sleep in my cozy coastal domicile. A comfortable start to the day, including a walk by the sea. But then it's off to Tallinn. Yes, you might think so! I've barely gone 200 meters on the main road when there's a bump in the back right. Could it be? Yes, now the breakdown witch has finally come. I quickly pull over to the side of the highway, make sure of the situation, and then it really happened: the right rear tire is flat. A quick assessment of the situation: I actually have a spare tire, but that only solves the problem temporarily. I need to go to a workshop anyway. So I decide to test if the ETI breakdown cover, which I've had for decades, is worth anything. After a short wait in the queue, a friendly female voice takes away all my worries and the initial excitement subsides. With all the necessary information provided, the kind lady will take care of everything else. So there's nothing else for me to do but put on some sunscreen and find a shady spot.

After about an hour, the yellow angel arrives. The young mechanic, his name is Zenon, doesn't waste any time and together we load the damaged Skoda onto the loading platform and off we go to the next workshop. On the way, we communicate in rudimentary English and discuss various things. Zenon finds it strange that people come to Estonia for vacation, especially people from the paradise-like Switzerland!

We unload at the workshop and Zenon stays to ensure interpretation. We don't hesitate for long and replace both rear tires. Two mechanics and the boss take care of me and the job is done in no time. With a delay of about two hours, I set off.

The program is shortened a bit, but I won't miss the main points: the Rakvere Castle and a detour to the Lahemaa National Park. Especially the village of Käsmu is worth a visit.

Afterwards, we continue quickly to Tallinn. The road is very good, so it goes quickly. The goal is the City-Camping Tallinn. Amidst a torrential downpour, I reach the city. It may be because of this that I can't find this strange camping site. After a few daredevil maneuvers and thirty minutes later, I give up and instead head to the Pirita Harbor Marina in Tallinn. Something different and so far, I'm doing fine there. Let's see how the night goes!

So, after 13 days, I have sea water in front of me again. My journey through the extensive forests and lakes of Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia is coming to an end at the Gulf of Finland. From now on, I will be following the coast and maybe even hopping between some islands.

The morning started off relatively short and brisk – thanks to the mosquitoes of Lake Vôrtsjärv. Not even Anti-Brumm Forte – usually a safe bet – was effective. So, a Bialetti coffee was my breakfast and then I set off for Tartu, the university city of Estonia. Back then, at the choir festival in Vilnius, I saw some choirs from Tartu. Now I know where they study.

At one point, there was a security check because of my rear right tire, but everything was as it should be.

Tartu has many sights to see. I visited it because of the Estonian National Museum. And it was worth the visit and the entrance fee of 14 euros. An exciting, modern exhibition with many interactive opportunities, it offers material for a whole day. I delved into the history of Estonia in particular. I am always fascinated by what these three young countries have experienced in their eventful history at the focal point of Europe. And what strikes me again and again is how little we in Switzerland (speaking for myself here) know about it. And now the Baltics are once again the focal point of world history. I wish these friendly, culturally interested, helpful people all the best!

I head north through endless birch forests. I make a stop at the Lake Peipus, the largest lake in Estonia. On the other side is already Russia. But on the Estonian side, there are also people of Russian descent. They are called Onion Russians, who have found a new home here and still maintain their traditional way of life.

In the afternoon, I reach the coast of the Gulf of Finland, and of course, before I set up, I plunge into the "säichleien" waves of the sea.

I have now encountered many great campsites. But this one, Camping Mereoja, surpasses everything in terms of facilities. I have a neighboring cyclist named Ralph, with whom I will surely have a chat over a cool beer. So, this evening will be a good one as well.

Tomorrow I will head to Tallinn, the third capital of my journey.

Take care!

Today was once again a wonderful day. The occasional moment of fright was outweighed by the many highlights. But let's start from the beginning: With a heavy heart, I left Lakeside Camping in Sidulga this morning, as well as the dedicated caretaker Artur. I chose today's destination on the Park4night app, which likely saved me from a flop.

Still in Sidulga, I visited one of the Baltic's attractions: the Gutman's Cave. It is the largest cave in the Baltics and is located in the Gauja River valley, which began forming 300-370 million years ago. The valley is 1-2.5 kilometers wide, and at Sigulda, it reaches a maximum depth of 85 meters.

The last major transformations occurred 12-13,000 years ago, when the current Gauja River valley formed as the glacier receded.

The Gutman's Cave is the setting of a tragic legend:

During the Polish-Swedish War, a bloody battle took place in 1601 near the Turaida Fortress in Courland, which also claimed many civilian casualties. Among the few survivors was Maija[1], who later became known as the "Rose of Turaida" due to her renowned beauty and virtue. Her heart belonged to Victor Heils, the same-aged son of a castle gardener. They were already planning their wedding according to tradition. In August 1620, in the 20th year of this accursed war, two foreign Polish officers arrived in the town, coincidentally crossing paths with the beautiful Maija. Immediately inflamed with intense desire and passion, both men courted the virtuous maiden, but without success. With a forged letter, a supposed message from Victor, they lured Maija into the Gutman's Cave (Latvian: Gūtmaņa ala). The two men were already waiting there, but the young maiden immediately recognized their true intentions and the hopelessness of her situation. To preserve her honor, she claimed to possess a magically powerful scarf.[2] As proof, she asked one of the men to strike her with his sword, promising that it would cause her no harm. With this diabolical ruse, she managed to preserve her virginity and honor. With horror and covered in blood, the two men realized Maija's stratagem and hastily left the area. Due to the forged letter, which was still in Maija's clothes, her guilt was not recognized, and Victor was put on trial. Only on the day of his execution did one of the officers approach the judge and tell the true story to those present, also revealing that his accomplice had gone insane after the deed and hanged himself in a forest. Victor was now a free but broken man. He buried his beloved Maija, planted the lime tree on her grave, and left his homeland with a bag of soil from his bride's grave. No one has ever heard from him since.

With this tragic story, I set off on my way. Next, a short visit to Cesis is on the agenda. Cesis was first mentioned in a document in 1224.[1] The St. John's Church was built between 1281 and 1284. Its location on the Gauja River and on the trade route between Riga and Pskov contributed to its rapid development into a thriving trading city. Cesis joined the Hanseatic League in the 14th century. The market square and the church formed the city center. The city and castle were surrounded by a wall made of dolomite with eight towers and five gates.

Later, it's time to hit the road. The final destination is still 70 km away. The roads are very good, except for a section of about 10 km where I saw gravel for the first time in a long while. And suddenly, the warning light for the rear right tire pressure comes on. A first check shows no abnormalities, so I continue driving cautiously.

At the destination, I receive a friendly welcome and instructions. It is a small holiday resort right on the lake, which also provides a little forest for campers. Fantastic! Set up, swim, drink a beer. That's the good life!

Good evening, Schwyz!