The weather, about 27 degrees, hot in the sun, but nice and cool with a breeze in the shade.

We saw 3 Korean palaces, there are 5 in the entire city, so we might manage to see them all.

The metro is nice, with air-conditioned trains and stations. There are many people everywhere, and everyone is hiding from the sun, either at home or under head coverings, some of which are funny. Many stations have an entire underground system, like multi-kilometer caves. They also have some experimental agriculture; for example, they grow lettuce.

There are great places where you can watch folklore live; we saw an entire concert like that.

@Grzegorz: They also drive Brixton, not many, I took some pictures. There are a lot of lesser-known cars from brands like Kia, Hyundai, and others in Europe.

There are also Hyundai elevators.

Taking a bus to Seoul, to the hotel!

Walking to the location!

First night and Seoul at night, from the 18th floor!

Today we are again in the port city of Busan in South Korea. This time, we haven't traveled far from the city; instead, we visited a temple and a bamboo forest on the outskirts. In a city with 3.5 million inhabitants, this still means a 45-minute drive.

The city is brimming with high-rise buildings and modern structures (e.g., the new opera house) along with bridges featuring entrances reminiscent of the Gotthard's tunnel turns. What is different this time is that the visibility is somewhat poor, but the many cherry trees are in full bloom all around. Between the buildings, in parks, in forests, along rivers, and even beside highways.

We set out early for a tour and first visited the Hae Dong Yong Gung Temple. This is a large Buddhist temple complex that is said to have been built in 1376. However, this doesn't seem to be historically accurate. The complex is very large and beautifully situated by the sea. Prayers and offerings are actively made here. There are various Buddha figures, other deities, and also statues representing the Chinese zodiac signs. As in Japan, the boundaries to other religions are fluid, and as long as money flows—here, the Won—everything is generally fine. Indeed, in the middle of the temple complex, there are currency exchange machines, ATMs, and souvenir shops.

After the temple, we continued to the Ahopsan forest, which has been owned by the same family for 400 years and has been maintained by nine generations. For a long time, it primarily consisted of bamboo. However, the significance of bamboo has declined markedly, and now cypress, cedar, ginkgo, and pine trees are also being planted again. The forest is also used for the cultivation of edible mushrooms. The remaining bamboo forest is now used as a tourist attraction and film location. Six feature films and several series have been filmed there. There is still a gate from the past that remains from the filming of the movie 'The King: Eternal Monarch.' However, the gate seems to no longer function, as we tried it several times. We were able to enjoy a nice hike through the forests, and our guide reluctantly joined us on the long path. Nonetheless, we adhered precisely to the scheduled time.

After this excursion, we took the shuttle bus back to the city center. It was very lively with food stalls and restaurants everywhere, small shops particularly selling clothes, watches, jewelry, and electronics. Then, in the evening, rain began to fall here as well, so we returned to the ship and officially departed from South Korea.

As our penultimate stop, we traveled once more to the northwest of South Korea, where the beautiful Seoraksan National Park is located. We took a cable car to a very foggy peak, enjoyed a stroll along the river, and visited a beautiful temple. The city of Sokcho, adjacent to the national park, is known for its large fish market and lovely beach.

15.-17.03.26

On the 15th, we traveled to Andong via Busan and visited the Hanoe cultural village…

13.03.26-15.03.26

On March 13th, we continued our journey to Gwangyang, which turned out to be a bit more challenging than expected, as Google Maps is restricted in South Korea due to the military threat from North Korea and very few people speak English. Therefore, we traveled by bus through a total of three stations and relied a bit on luck to reach Gwangyang, where a plum blossom festival was taking place nearby, which we visited the next day. There was music, food stalls, vendors, and we could stroll through the beautiful hills with the blooming trees...

We were craving the off-the-beaten-path South Korea, so we followed the recommendation of another traveler and went to Namhae Island, where there’s truly nothing going on. When we wanted to eat in the evening, everything was closed. An older couple approached us from their car, and with Google Translator, we explained that we were looking for something to eat. They then drove us to a restaurant and waited for an hour (!!!) in the car so they could take us back to the motel afterward. That was incredibly kind, but it was also a bit uncomfortable for us. We tried (with Google) to persuade them to join us, to accept an invitation for a drink, or to let us take a taxi back, but they wouldn’t hear of it. It was truly a crazy and overwhelming experience of Korean hospitality…

The next day, we visited the lovely little village of Darangi in the south of the island.

10.03.26

We made a day trip to Gyeongju. There were ancient burial mounds from an old dynasty, as well as the truly beautiful Bulguksa Temple! In the evening we had Korean BBQ, which was very delicious…

Busan & Gyeongju 6.-11.3.

Welcome to South Korea,

After 6 hours on the ferry, we have finally reached Busan.

A vibrant, colorful city where we met some other travelers.

We took a trip to Gyeongju and visited a very beautiful temple.

Arrival in Busan, South Korea, early in the morning.
Busan, located in Haeundae Bay, South Korea, with 3.2 million residents, is the second largest city on the divided peninsula of South Korea.
South Korea, a democracy since 1987 and a highly industrialized nation, surprises with some astonishing facts. For instance, in terms of religion, 31% Christian and 16% Buddhist, or the social issue of only 0.7 children per woman, or that 30 surnames make up 90% of the population, to name just a few.
Despite moderate visibility, we take a look at the city from the observatory of 'X the Sky' on the 100th floor of the 411m tall building.
We visit the famous temple on the cliffs 'Haedong-Yonggungsa' with its 108 steps leading to the pagoda, overlooking Haeundae Beach, home to the great goddess Buddha.
And then there is the historic 'Gukje International Market' that emerged during the wars and the founding of South Korea.

I left Denia as best as I could. Trying to leave the Cyber organized. So even though my vacation starts on the 2nd, I was well focused on getting everything in order until the 3rd.

Jimmy was my driver to Valencia, arriving to take a train to Barcelona and once there, to catch the flight to Seoul. 

On the plane, as expected, everyone was Korean except for a Spaniard behind me. 

The best part of the flight was that I got 3 empty seats by the window. So I was able to rest reasonably well. 12 hours of travel, with 2 very basic meals. One plate and a small glass of water. I had already read that this airline, Tway, had quite a bad reputation. It’s low cost. For €443 I was able to get a one-way ticket. I could have saved €80 with others but with layovers. I made the right choice. 

The departure was at 20:30 and the arrival at 17:30 the next day. In Spain, it was 09:30h

Once in Korea, the airport exudes technology and modernity. I remembered the one in Barcelona, which has become very outdated and has an old-fashioned design.

Upon exiting, my first encounter was with the machines, to get a ticket to Seoul. Previously, I had downloaded the Rome2rio app. It is very helpful for seeing routes and which services to take.

So, without wasting time, I took the first bus to Seoul for €19.

Very comfortable seats, the driver got up, indicated that we should put on our seatbelts, and bowed to us. And off we went.

The entrance to Seoul, Hapjeong station. The OkiDoki hotel. About 800m away.

Busan really seems to have a lot to offer. Yesterday I visited what is probably the most beautiful beach in South Korea, and today I visited what is likely one of the most beautiful temples in the country (it says so right there, so I didn't make it up).

But I'm getting ahead of myself. Today's plan was to visit a coastal temple: the Haedong Yonggungsa Temple in eastern Busan. This meant getting up a little earlier than usual.

Not only because of the journey, but also because we received a small breakfast in our room at our current hotel. So, we had breakfast at eight o'clock, then slowly got ready and set off. Around ten o'clock we headed towards the subway, then continued by bus – and about an hour later we finally stood in front of the temple.

A Buddhist temple right by the sea: beautiful weather, stunning views, and fresh sea air. A combination that works instantly.

Within the temple grounds, besides the incredibly beautiful view of the sea, there were several Buddhist shrines, a huge Buddha, and also a smaller Buddha over which water is poured with a ladle. This ritual symbolizes purification and letting go of negative thoughts or worries – a small gesture with great meaning.

In addition, there were various ways to express wishes: firstly, via coins in a wishing well, and secondly, via colorful lanterns to which small golden leaves with personal wishes were attached and which were then hung there.

Thus, a kind of entire "forest" of wishes has emerged. The colors of the lanterns each represent different types of wishes – red, for example, for passionate, goal-oriented wishes, while light blue is more for those associated with responsibility and trust.

After visiting the temple, we treated ourselves to a homemade coffee right by the sea. Beans, grinder, and Aeropress were of course in our bags – the coffee nerd was prepared. Coffee somehow tastes even better with a view of the sea.

Then we went back a little way through a small bamboo forest and from there back towards the bus.

Back in the city, we had lunch first: gimbap – basically like Korean sushi, but the size of a small dürüm. Afterwards, the obligatory coffee visit was a must, this time at a very specific roaster who apparently has already won a roasting championship. Bonus point: From there, we had a beautiful view of one of Busan's harbors from above in the evening.

Back at the hotel, a little surprise awaited us. We hadn't actually requested room service that day – why would we, since we were traveling on the next day anyway? Nevertheless, a small bag containing two cookies and a kind note had suddenly appeared in the room. A truly lovely gesture.

That's a great way to end the day. All that was left to do was pack our backpacks properly, prepare everything for the flight the next day – and then the day was done. And so were we.

Today it was time to get up early, pack everything, and get ready for checkout.

For the first time in Seoul, we actually had a classic breakfast. It was just paninis, but hey – it was a real breakfast and not an improvised coffee snack or onigiri from 7-Eleven.

After that, we checked out and headed straight to the train station because today was the day we continued our journey: by train to Busan. Of course, we arrived at the station way too early, so we had to wait for a bit.

But better too early than too late – and the train ride itself went surprisingly fast. And it was especially quiet, as the trains request silence and hardly anyone spoke. And not even three hours later, we were already at the station in Busan.

As evening approached, we went straight to the hotel and had only one thing planned for the moment: dinner. We decided on Bibimbap – a Korean rice dish with various vegetables, meat, a fried egg, and spicy Gochujang sauce – along with kimchi and daikon as sides. Exactly what we needed after a day of traveling.

After that, we didn't really have anything specific planned. But since we wouldn't be staying in Busan long and the following day was already well planned, we still wanted to take the time to see some of the city.

Following a recommendation, we decided to visit the beach. The beach?! In winter?! But okay, why not. And that turned out to be by far the best decision of the day.

Following a recommendation, we decided to visit the beach. Yes, the beach. And yes, in winter. It was a bit odd, but ultimately it was by far the best decision of the day.

Even the road to the beach was an experience in itself: a straight road adorned with ornaments and lights. A sight that was worth the trip on its own.

At the beach itself, entire sculptures and installations were set up with string lights and other lighting elements, bathing the beach in colorful light and creating a very special atmosphere. There were stars, planets, an astronaut, and other smaller setups. It was clear why so many people were posing for photos and wanted to capture this view.

And just about a hundred meters further, we stood at the sea for quite a while, enjoying the tranquility, interrupted only by the sound of the waves. It's no wonder that this beach is amongst the most visited beaches in South Korea during the summer.

On the way back, we walked through an alley filled with countless street food stalls. However, most of them consisted of fish, eel, or octopus – not really my cup of tea. But that worked out well since I was still more than full from dinner.

Fun fact to end:

Today was the first day of this holiday that we didn't visit a café to have coffee. And I think I can almost feel the caffeine withdrawal...

Not much happened yesterday—hence there was no blog post. Sometimes there are just days when you take it a bit easy, and that was one of those days.

We only went to a local café, where the coffee nerd got to brew coffee himself. Sort of a small pop-up or guest appearance behind the bar. While cold, wet weather prevailed outside, it was cozy inside—and with the temperatures, this quiet day fit perfectly.

Aside from that, we used the time to plan our further trip. Trains, hotels, and flights were booked, routes considered, and the next stage of the journey became a bit more concrete. Not spectacular, but necessary—and somehow also part of the travel feeling.

Today, however, we went out again, as the weather turned out to be mostly dry. So we seized the opportunity to explore royal burial mounds in the middle of Seoul. Quiet, spacious grounds that provide a nice contrast to the otherwise vibrant city. Here, King Seongjong, his wife Queen Jeonghyeon, and King Jungjong were buried.

King Seongjong was the ninth king of the Joseon Dynasty and ruled in the late 15th century. The crazy thing is: he ascended the throne at just twelve years old and led the country through a phase of cultural and legal consolidation during his reign.

His wife, Queen Jeonghyeon, survived him by a considerable margin and continued to play an important role at court after his death.

The reign of King Jungjong, the eleventh king of the Joseon Dynasty, however, was considerably more turbulent and marked by power struggles.

The grave mounds still seem surprisingly peaceful—gentle, grassy rises that invite you more for a walk and reflection than for awe.

After this calm and contemplative start to the day, there was—unsurprisingly—yet another coffee.

Afterwards, we went to a mall to browse a bit. Unfortunately, the very item I wanted to buy was already sold out. But at least: So you can see what I'm talking about—this is what the countless Gacha machines look like that are everywhere here.

Since we were in this part of Seoul anyway, we made a stop at the café of the 2nd Korean Brewers Cup Champion. The coffee nerd was really eager to buy a UFO Dripper (or something similar) there—a fancy tool for pour-over coffee brewing.

The coffee there was also absolutely top-notch regardless. I can't really describe the flavors, but it was just really, really good.

After that, we went back to the hotel one last time. The next day, we would continue—by train to Busan. So in the evening: gather everything, forget nothing, pack backpacks sensibly, and prepare for departure.

And thus ended our last day in Seoul.

As expected – or rather hoped – there was beautiful sunshine again today. It was still cold, but even more beautiful for it. I mean, who is surprised by the cold? After all, it is winter.

Today we went to a place we already knew. Who recognizes it?

Correct: the Gyeongbokgung Palace, which we had already visited on the first day.

This time, however, the focus was not on the palace itself, but on the accompanying program: the training of the guards and the official changing of the guard. It was very cool to watch as they marched in formation through the sunshine in their colorful robes – accompanied by music and drums, including powerful hits on a large drum. And each one carried at least two weapons, which made it all quite convincing.

Since we initially assumed that the ceremonies would take place in the palace itself, we bought tickets for admission again. Since we already had tickets, we, of course, went inside again – and quickly realized that during our last visit, we had perhaps seen only a quarter of the entire area. And that was also the part that was almost the most boring compared to the rest.

The palace itself was built in 1395 and served as the seat of the then king. Gyeongbokgung means "the palace blessed by heaven" and its location was deliberately chosen so that it was at the center from several perspectives. During the Japanese invasion from 1592 to 1598, the palace was unfortunately burned down, but was rebuilt in 1867 to revive the grandeur of the Joseon dynasty.

While wandering through the grounds, we were very surprised by the sheer size of the palace – especially since we thought we had seen most of it the last time. We saw various smaller buildings, such as the residence of the Crown Prince, the royal kitchen, and a separate kitchen for banquets, etc., one of the royal fountains, and also a pagoda in the middle of a body of water, which was probably used as a retreat for the queen.

However, the size of the palace mainly results from the area, as the individual buildings are partly rather small...

After the visit, we passed by statues of the 12 zodiac signs and the National Folk Museum of Korea but then moved directly on – how could it be otherwise – to a café nearby to have a coffee and a light meal.

And since there happened to be another café nearby that the coffee nerd wanted to visit, we went straight to the next coffee. That also had its charm since the neighborhood seemed a bit older, and the buildings were nice to look at.

With about 17 grams of caffeine in our blood, we then followed the nerd's heart again and landed in a store for cards. But not maps, rather trading cards, like Yu-Gi-Oh, Pokémon, One Piece, and – the main reason for our visit – Magic: The Gathering.

After a little browsing, we first went back to the hotel to relax for a moment, as the next program point was not until the evening: the Seoul Winter Festa, which sounded like a big light show according to its description.

In the end, it unfortunately was not quite what we had expected. Instead of a light show, it was more like a type of K-Pop concert – with Korean songs I didn’t know and also English Christmas songs. Although I’m still not sure whether they were sung in English or Korean.

We were just about to leave when suddenly people with glowing banners appeared from behind. That looked much more like a light festival. And behind them followed more colorful glowing figures that performed a small show.

After that, we moved on, as there seemed to be more a little further on – and indeed: there awaited a small Christmas market with gift stalls fitting for the season and a food festival with corn dogs, chicken skewers, kimchi pancakes, and much more.

In the end, the Seoul Winter Festa was definitely worth a visit for us, even if it didn’t seem like it at first.

The now 5th day started off quite uneventfully (Spoiler: And it remained that way): tidying up a bit in the hotel room, packing and sorting a few things. The coffee nerd wanted to send some items from the competition, as well as everything we wouldn't need on our onward journey, back home. Thus, the first stop of the day was clear: the Central Post Office in Seoul.

We surprisingly spent quite a bit of time there – about two hours – as it's not so easy to fill out the customs declaration correctly when not everything is well translated. Furthermore, we first had to figure out how to accurately designate all that coffee stuff, such as “mineral drops for coffee water,” on a customs form. After some consideration, a bit of improvisation, some help from ChatGPT, and several forms later, everything was finally correctly declared and (hopefully) on its way to reach Austria someday.

Afterwards, we made our way to a café that the coffee dude had heard some positive feedback about beforehand. However, on the way, we stopped at a small restaurant to grab a bite – dumplings, freshly cooked at the table in a small pot. Very authentic, very delicious.

Then it was time for the aforementioned coffee. And it did not disappoint. One was very interesting and personally reminded me a lot of white tea (after all, coffee is kind of just tea made from coffee beans or something). The other was extremely fruity, and I believe it could be described as 'full-bodied', whatever that means. In general, both were very aromatic and definitely worth the break.

Subsequently, we found ourselves at the AK& Mall – a mall that basically had everything that makes a Korean nerd's heart race: countless Gacha machines, a manga shop, a One Piece store, a pop-up shop for a current anime series, a clothing store with Pokémon and Harry Potter pajamas, a station for customizing phone cases in all sorts of kitschy designs, and much more. Quite crazy – and quite entertaining.

Overall, it was a very eventless day but, for a change, also quite pleasant. And even though we didn't really have much planned, we ended up being out the whole day anyway.

But thus this day also comes to an end – and tomorrow we can probably look forward to some lovely sunshine and a bit more of an agenda.

For today's adventure, we planned to visit the Jongmyo Shrine and the Changgyeonggung Palace to experience a bit more of South Korean culture.

To avoid arriving totally hungry and low on energy, we indulged in a culinary delight on the way: Onigiri from the refrigerated section of a 7-Eleven (my first Onigiri since arriving here). Super nutritious and of course totally healthy – one can surely count the seaweed wrapper as a vegetable.

When we arrived at the Jongmyo Shrine, our plans of sightseeing were dashed, as guided tours are only available on weekdays, and we had arrived a bit too late for that. So we had to kill about 1.5 hours until the next tour.

We walked along the wall of the shrine towards Changgyeonggung Palace to see if the same rules applied there. However, since we weren't sure whether the tour of the shrine included the palace (there were combination tickets for several shrines and palaces), we decided against visiting the palace for the moment.

Instead, we made our way to a Hanok Village. Hanok refers to a traditional Korean architectural style, and there are small villages here that have been entirely built in this style.

On the way there, we finally “found” one that we could explore in detail – and it was absolutely worth it. The architecture felt like it was straight out of an Eastern film, and one immediately feels as if they belong there. The garden was particularly beautiful, even in winter. I can hardly imagine how impressive it must be here in spring when everything blooms.

I would definitely feel at home in such a house. And what completely surprised me: The houses in the Hanok style had a sort of underfloor heating! Below the floor, a chamber was created where a fire was lit (usually under the kitchen to utilize the heat directly for cooking). The warm air then flowed through clever channels and warmed the stone slabs beneath the wooden floor. Voila – underfloor heating!

With this new knowledge in mind, it was slowly time to return to the shrine, so we would be on time for the tour this time.

For just 1,000 Korean won, we found ourselves right in the middle of the action (although… actually we were just there). The tour of the Jongmyo Shrine lasted about an hour and provided a wealth of information about the shrine's construction and history. It was the central royal ancestral shrine where the royal ancestors were honored. I won’t go into further detail – that would exceed the limits (and I probably have already forgotten some details) – but one thing is very important: There are different paths for different persons in the shrine. One for the king, one for the crown prince, and one for the spirits of the former monarchs that runs in between. The living are not allowed to walk on the path of the ancestral spirits – but we were allowed to walk the king's path. I have always known that I must have royal blood, but now it’s official!

Overall, it was a very educational and beautiful experience. Additionally, it was pleasantly quiet since only a few guided groups were allowed in. However, we were not upset when we were done, as the cold had begun to creep into our bones.

The last stop of the day was Gangnam (yes, exactly – Gangnam Style!).

On the way there, we took a spontaneous detour through a street market, where there were mainly textiles, food (lots of fish), and street food stalls. I believe I have never seen so many dried foods in one place. However, we only indulged in a small, delicious snack: a pancake made from mung beans (or something), which warmed our limbs and fortified us for the continued journey.

Upon arriving in Gangnam, we had four destinations on our list:

Tim Hortons – for delicious donuts (after all those steps, we definitely deserved it)

Uniqlo – to buy some warmer clothes for the coffee nerd, in case there would be (or rather because there would definitely be) more cold days ahead

Ediya Coffee Lab – for the daily dose of Specialty Coffee (you must have been waiting for this moment…)

Hanmiok Korean BBQ – for dinner with acquaintances of the coffee nerd

The donuts were quickly found (and unfortunately devoured even quicker), and the search for warmer clothing was a complete success, while sitting in the café was a very welcome break after we had already been on our feet for nearly six hours at that point. The coffee itself was rather unremarkable this time – just a perfectly normal, good coffee. Almost strange that the nerd would order something like that.

The day concluded with Korean BBQ at Hanmiok: a pretty cool location, delicious food, and very pleasant company.

The third day in Seoul started off a bit less sunny than the previous one, but it was only slightly cloudy and dry – so perfect weather again for some outdoor activities. This time, the Seoul Tower was on the agenda.

The path to the tower was surprisingly quiet. It's hard to believe that you are in the middle of a city with around 9.6 million inhabitants. The approximately 700 steps are lined with trees and lead quietly up the mountain alongside a small stream.

Fun Fact: The steps had handwritten numbers marked on them, presumably indicating the number of steps. However, it seems the counters lost track, as the numbers 660, 650, and 670 appeared within just two or three steps – in exactly that order.

Once you reach the top, it gets a bit louder again due to the many visitors. However, looking down, you can again see how vast Seoul actually is. The city stretches in every direction – a sea of concrete and glass with occasional green patches in between.

The weather also treated us well from here on: The cloud cover broke, and we had predominantly blue skies.

Inside the tower, there’s everything a tourist attraction needs: restaurants, souvenirs, and attractions like a small arcade area and a horoscope for 2026. For me, as a

6 degrees Celsius. Blue sky. Bright sunshine. The perfect day for a little hike. On a recommendation from an acquaintance, we chose Ansan Mountain, a cozy yet scenic route in the heart of Seoul.

Right at the beginning of the loop, we encountered the Patriotic Martyr Memorial. A memorial for patriotic martyrs who rose against Japanese imperialists and fought for Korea.

After a brief orientation, we set off. The path first led us up the mountain via elevated wooden walkways – it was impressively designed and, despite the material, we weren't literally on the wrong track this time. At a fork in the path, we thought we would find something interesting at the end and followed the detour. Only to end up in front of a drinking water fountain... So, back we went and continued towards the summit.

Upon reaching the top, we were greeted by a small Burial Mound, and from there a view over all of Seoul. It's truly crazy how the city sprawls beneath you: skyscrapers next to historic buildings, dense residential areas next to green hills and forested spaces.

And I believe I heard something like this conversation (in my head): 'Look at it. This is Seoul. Everything the light touches.' - 'And what about that shadowy land back there?' - 'That's North Korea, you should never go there!'

After that, we headed back down (thankfully only literally, not metaphorically), passing a few picturesque spots and a Buddhist temple back to the metro.

From there, we went straight to the next trendy coffee spot, where we tried three different types of coffee again because less is obviously no longer an option.

We also had a traditional Red Bean Rice Cake. It sounded to both of us like a dessert to accompany the coffee, but lo and behold, this 'cake' was unexpectedly not sweet at all. Nevertheless, it was quite good, albeit unusual.

With a good amount of caffeine in our blood, we then headed to a mall to buy some stationery – after all, someone has to professionally document the various flavor nuances of all this coffee. (Spoiler: It wasn't me.)

Before the day came to a close, we went out to eat – to a small restaurant that supposedly became famous because the CEO of Nvidia dined there. Is it true? No idea. Did it taste good? Yes, definitely. Even if it doesn't quite live up to the hype.

Thus, Day 3 was pretty much wrapped up. The only thing left was – as every evening – to write these lines (even though some are finalized the next day as laziness often wins out in the evening).

After a sufficient amount of sleep to counter the jet lag, the first agenda item was to meet with the coffee nerd and his coach (or coachess? I’ll just stick with coach).

Picked up from the hotel and quickly dropping off our luggage, we headed to a café where the two were supposed to meet an acquaintance from the competition the day before.

Since we still had more than enough time and happened to pass by Gyeongbokgung Palace, we thought: Why not take a quick look inside?

So we strolled through the expansive grounds, admired the throne room, and wandered through the gardens, which were, for me, the little highlight of the visit.

Especially the many people in traditional Hanboks enhanced the atmosphere even more.

When it finally became time, we made our way back and met the acquaintance as planned at the café. An hour and many deep discussions about coffee later (in which, as a non-coffee person, I couldn't really contribute much), it was time for an afternoon snack.

With freshly gifted coffee beans from Malaysia and growing hunger in our bags, we set out to find food – not an easy task. The coffee nerd's coach eats vegan, and it seems that vegan food is not easy to find in South Korea, especially between 3 PM and 5 PM, as many restaurants are on break during this time. After an hour of fruitless searching, we finally ended up with bagels and tomato soup for the vegan and topped bagels for the rest.

A subsequent walk through Seoul led us past tall buildings, wide streets, and the predictably huge neon signs.

And it ended – of course – back in a café, where we waited for the bus to the airport with three types of coffee to say goodbye to the coach.

After that, the coffee nerd and I were back on our own. After a quick dinner, we walked back to the hotel to unwind and end the day relaxing there.

Every journey begins with the start right at the doorstep – it almost sounds like one of those pseudo-philosophical posters you can hang on the wall. Mine began on a gray, but at least dry morning on the way to the airport. Too early, for sure, but better two hours early than two minutes late.

Since this was my first flight alone and I don't fly very often in general, there was a slight feeling of unease at the beginning. But essentially, it's just like taking a train – just with a few extra steps. And, as expected, everything went totally smoothly. So smoothly that I ended up sitting at the gate for almost two hours before boarding even started.

And then off we went. Although departing in gray weather, hardly had the plane left the cloud cover behind than there were a few rays of sunshine. (How surprising: above the clouds, the sun indeed shines.)

The flight itself was uneventful: a few hours and one meal to Doha. A few hours of layover. And then even more hours and two additional meals on the plane to Seoul.

Upon arrival, everything worked without a hitch until I stood outside the airport and had to realize: being alone in a country you don't know, whose language you don't speak, and whose script you can't read, presents its challenges.

When, on top of that, the extra ordered SIM card for the internet doesn't work right away, the way to the hotel feels almost like an adventure.

Just knowing which stop to get off at is challenging when you have no idea whether there are announcements or signals on the bus. Plus, navigating without a map and without internet adds to the difficulty.

Can I do without that after about 20 hours of travel time? Absolutely!

But when I heard that the bus stops were announced in 4 languages – one of which thankfully was in English because my Japanese unfortunately is not good enough to understand that – and that the mobile internet eventually worked during the bus ride, the tension slowly eased.

After I finally checked into the hotel, the first three hours in Seoul were done. Thus, the start of the vacation was officially successful – and it began, very uneventfully, with an early bedtime.

Our host puts out a decent spread too. Sashimi, Korean chicken, kimchi, and chips. Thanks to his generosity, my dinner is already secured. I can still get my haircut tomorrow.

Our friendly, beaming host's already modest English becomes more and more fragmented after each round of Soju until he eventually switches almost entirely to the phone, where he speaks Korean and then holds out the English translation for us. He mentions that he had worked at Samsung until a few months ago, then quit his job to pursue his dream of running a hostel. He wanted to meet people from different countries. After telling us, while quite tipsy, that he has to drive home for 40 minutes tonight, where his family is waiting for him, we cautiously express our concerns. He reassures us: ‘It's okay, I take Taxi.’ and ‘Alcohol is food too.’ is displayed on his phone, which he extends towards us with his silver look. Well then, that settles it.

Gamcheon-dong is a quaint place on one of Busan's hills. Over the years, it has transformed from a district for refugees from the Korean War into an attraction for tourists. The winding alleys, steep steps, and colorful facades and roofs were renovated as part of a project that began in 2009. On my way up, I try to find somewhere to dispose of my coffee-to-go cup. Trash cans are as rare in South Korea as they are in Taiwan. I find one near a church. It’s Sunday, and the congregation is gathered outside for the Mass. As I walk past the entrance door, a smiling Korean gestures with his hand. An invitation to enter. I accept it. Go with the flow.

Some of the mostly older congregation members smile at me. Most don’t notice me in my seat at the back at all. I try to translate some passages of the long sermons using my phone and realize that Christian services in South Korea can be just as boring as in Germany. In the end, I dare to go forward for communion. Before I'm offered the wafer, the Catholic pastor asks me if I am baptized. Fortunately, I am. We practice ecumenism.

I miss the arrival of the young Vito Corleone at Ellis Island, but otherwise, the experience of seeing the best Godfather part on the big screen gives me the motivation to keep looking for ATMs on my way home. My task of paying for lunch is still open, but at some point, it has to work out. On my first try at an ATM in the next 7-Eleven, I am successful.

A bike leans against the wall at the front. On the back of the carrier is a license plate that reads ‘Around the world,’ underneath a map of Europe and Asia with a black line connecting Madrid and Tokyo. In the seat rows, I quickly spot the world traveler from the bicycle helmet lying next to him. The Spaniard is in his mid-50s and is named Sel. He gives me a brief rundown of his route. I ask him if and in which country it has been hardest to progress. 'No problems,' he says, shaking his head. As it looks, Sel could not be shaken by anything on his journey across two continents. Meanwhile, I’m already losing my cool on my bus ride to the ferry. I tell myself to practice more calmness in the next country. Where else, if not in Japan...

He introduces himself as Leonhard from Bielefeld. After we had to actually submit our Arrival Cards at the Korean border control and retrieved our backpacks from the luggage carousel, we look around the terminal hall and consider how to get into the city. It is now past midnight. Incheon Airport is located on an island west of Seoul. A taxi would be far too expensive, and the train isn't running at this hour. At night, only buses operate, and you have to book them through a ticket machine. The next bus is fully booked, and the next one isn’t available for a few more hours. We first eat ramen at the only open snack bar. Leonhard, like me, has been to Taiwan, and we share our experiences about the kindness and warmth of the people. He generally wouldn’t travel to countries with a democracy index below 5. He doesn’t want to strengthen the regimes with his foreign currency. So, Taiwan instead of China. I find that impressive. An idealism that only those in their early twenties possess.

The ramen shop closes for half an hour, and we use the remaining time to catch a little shut-eye on benches in the airport entrance hall until the bus arrives.

A taxi drives directly towards me. The taxi driver calls out from the window: 'Are you Cedric?' I’m not. Too bad, that would have been my salvation, but the Uber taxi was probably ordered by Cedric. But as I walk away, he calls out to me again: 'Cedric has cancelled!' He takes credit cards, and I show him my far-off accommodation, which the approximately 80-year-old driver enters into his GPS. Under the night lighting, he drives like a lowered car over the highways of Seoul. My buddy Lukas, who knows a bit of Korean, had sent me a voice message upon arrival with the two essential words in travel vocabulary: Annyeonghaseyo - Hello and gamsahabnida - thank you. I have to listen to the message repeatedly throughout my whole trip in Korea. They are not easy words. 'Gahmsahmnida,' I say to the taxi driver when he ensures that he has taken me to the right hotel. He smiles and answers what I interpret as Korean 'You're welcome.' People seem to understand me.

In my self-check-in hotel without staff, there are washing machines, but some pig has washed their sneakers in it. The old shoes are sitting in the washing drum, into which I no longer want to put my underwear. In search of a laundromat, I end up in a little shop owned by an older gentleman. He takes my underwear from the rest of the laundry pile and writes down the price and pickup time on a piece of paper. Only then do I realize that I haven't landed in a simple laundry service, but in a dry cleaner’s. Despite the language barrier and my laundry bag full of unsorted clothes, the man is very polite, and I can't bring myself to decline the price of almost €30. I treat myself to the small luxury of ironed elephant pants. I wash the remaining clothes by hand and with Rai from the tube in the hotel.

In the pedestrian zone, we stroll through the night market and treat ourselves to skewers of candied fruit. Colorful and loud, the downtown area of Seoul is filled with Nintendo sounds from the still open shops packed with electronic toys and Korean sweets. A mascot in a cat costume advertises for a cat café, and I persuade Leonhard to come along since he has never been to one. The calm atmosphere and a reddish-brown cat that makes itself comfortable on our table between two milkshakes reconcile me with the day.

Instead, we head to a village located directly in the demilitarized zone and primarily inhabited by older South Koreans. While there are financial incentives to live here, there are also strict curfews and marriage policies that discourage younger people from staying here. In the quirky souvenir shop, you can buy North Korean currency for which there isn’t even an official exchange rate. We are only allowed to move in a marked area around the visitor center. Too many tour participants in the past had peeked into the homes of residents and did not respect the people's privacy, Chloe says. There we have it again, the voyeurism.

The small bath also has a smaller wooden sauna, although it is carpeted and smells quite like a doghouse. The steam sauna next to it is much hotter, and I can only withstand it for a maximum of five minutes. Overall, I rotate between the pools and the sauna for nearly four hours and also enjoy the digital detox effect.