For most independent travelers, Karakol is the most sensible starting point. It’s best to overnight there, buy all the necessary supplies, and leave early the next morning. Additional practical details on the route, accommodations, and seasonal conditions can be found in this detailed guide to Altyn Arashan.

From Karakol to Ak-Suu

Ak-Suu is located about twelve kilometers east of Karakol. Sometimes the older name Teploklyuchenka is still used. It is helpful to know both names.

Local marshrutkas and shared taxis go in this direction, but departure locations and times may change. A regular taxi is simpler if you want to start early or avoid a long search for the right vehicle.

You should clearly tell the driver that you want to go to the road to Altyn Arashan, not just to the center of Ak-Suu. If you get off further south, you can save part of the walk through the village.

Karakol is also the last reasonable place to withdraw cash, charge your phone, buy supplies, or replace forgotten gear. In Ak-Suu, there are simple shops, but you shouldn't postpone important purchases until you get there.

The Road to Altyn Arashan

From Ak-Suu, the route follows the river into the mountains. To call it a road is almost generous. The path is steep and damaged, with loose gravel, deep ruts, mud, and sections where drivers must avoid larger obstacles.

You should not take a regular rental car on this route. Many ordinary SUVs are also unsuitable. Local drivers often use older UAZ vehicles or other off-road cars built for bad roads.

On foot, the route is easier to evaluate. Hikers follow the same track as the off-road vehicles, so navigation in summer is usually not a major issue. The long ascent is tougher than many initially expect.

Some travelers walk up, spend the night in the valley, and look for a ride back. This saves time and avoids having to go the same long distance again the next day.

How difficult is the hike?

The distance from Ak-Suu to the main accommodation area in Altyn Arashan is usually around 14 to 16 kilometers. The exact route depends on where you start and which accommodation you aim for.

A trained hiker with a light pack might reach the valley in about four hours. For many people, five or six hours is more realistic. Mud, heat, heavy backpacks, and frequent breaks can significantly extend the ascent.

Under normal summer conditions, there are no technical climbing sections. Ropes or special climbing gear are not needed. It is just a long uphill walk, with a noticeable elevation gain in the last section.

The lower part goes through forest and stays close to the river. As you go further up, the valley opens up and the view becomes increasingly expansive. There is no single dramatic viewpoint. The landscape gradually becomes more impressive.

You should set out in the morning. Leaving Ak-Suu only after noon puts unnecessary time pressure on you and risks arriving after dark.

Accommodation and Hot Springs

It is possible to go and return in one day, but that leaves little time for Altyn Arashan itself. Most of the day would consist only of hiking.

For a simple individual visit, one night is sufficient. You drive from Karakol to Ak-Suu, continue walking or driving into the valley, spend the night there, and return the next day.

Accommodations are basic. Expect guesthouses, dormitories, yurts, simple meals, and limited facilities—not the usual hotel comfort.

In July and August, beds can be scarce. It may be advisable to arrange accommodation through a guesthouse in Karakol in advance, especially on weekends.

Cash in Kyrgyz Som is important. Card payment is not reliable here, and mobile reception can be weak or nonexistent.

The hot springs do not belong to a large public spa. Various guesthouses operate different pools and bathing houses. Some consist of simple indoor concrete pools, while others are small outdoor baths near the river.

It’s best to ask the host which springs are open and how access works. Prices and conditions can change, so older information on the internet may not always be reliable.

What to take and when to best visit

Summer is the easiest season for an individual visit. The route is more frequently used, accommodations are likely open, and transport is easier to organize.

In early summer, there might still be snow, damaged road sections, or high water levels. In autumn, nights get chilly quickly and some guesthouses close. A winter trip is a completely different endeavor and should not be planned based on summer information.

Shoes should remain comfortable even after several hours on stones, dust, mud, and uneven ground. A waterproof jacket and a warm layer should also be packed, even if the weather forecast for Karakol looks good.

You should have enough water and snacks for the ascent. Guesthouses usually provide meals, but some personal provisions are helpful in case the journey takes longer than expected.

A headlamp, an offline map, a power bank, swimwear, a towel, and a small travel first-aid kit are also advisable. None of these take up much space, and many things cannot be replaced after Ak-Suu.

Before starting, inquire locally about the latest rainfalls and the condition of the road. Conditions can change faster than travel reports are updated online.

Do not confuse with the Ala-Kul hike

A visit to Altyn Arashan is not the same as a hike over the Ala-Kul Pass.

The route from Ak-Suu into the valley is strenuous, but usually well manageable in good summer weather. Crossing the Ala-Kul is a high mountain hike that requires more time, warmer gear, better navigation, and greater mountain experience.

You do not have to continue to the pass. Altyn Arashan works very well alone as a two-day excursion.

A simple plan for the individual trip

It’s best to first overnight in Karakol, leave early for Ak-Suu, and start the ascent before it gets warm. After that, spend a night in the valley and return the next morning by foot or by a local 4x4 vehicle.

You should inquire about current information on transport and prices in Karakol instead of relying on an old schedule or a fixed price from a travel blog. Cash and some flexibility make planning much easier.

The route is feasible. It just takes longer than it initially appears on the map.

After our stay in Bukhara, Philipp and I took an overnight train to Andijan and then crossed back into Kyrgyzstan. We spent a day in Osh and then comfortably drove the 12 hours (for 600 km) back to Bishkek in a private taxi. The journey was truly spectacular. I am generally a fan of long car rides, and the views of the mountains and lakes were magnificent.

Back in Bishkek, we made preparations for our return journey. We exchanged money, bought souvenirs, and spent one last evening together enjoying Georgian food with our hostel friends. On September 23rd, Philipp took his flight back.

On my last day, I went once more to the Ala Archa National Park to say goodbye to the Tien Shan mountains. It was quite beautiful. Since the weather wasn't very good, I had the nature almost all to myself. In the evening, I had Plov again, ran some errands, and packed. What I always enjoy is emptying my backpack after a long trip and throwing away or giving away the things I no longer need, like my towel, old T-shirts, or empty cosmetic bottles.

On the 24th, I set off early in the morning and landed in rainy Frankfurt after a long day of travel yesterday evening. Now it's time to readjust to everyday life.

Thank you very much to everyone who read this blog, and hopefully see you next time! :)

Karakol is the third-largest city in Kyrgyzstan (even though it has fewer than 100,000 inhabitants) and is located in the eastern part of the country. The city itself is cozy and small, but a great starting point for numerous trekking tours. The surrounding mountains strongly resemble the Alps, at least when you imagine the yurts gone and the jingling of cow bells. Unlike many other backpackers (by the way, my phone always wants to change 'Backpacker' to 'baking paper'), we decided to stay at a relatively low altitude of 2500m instead of going on a tour at 4000m. We did camp, though, and that was really nice. In the evenings, we always filled our bellies with local specialties :)

Bishkek is the capital of Kyrgyzstan and with around 1.2 million inhabitants, it is by far the largest city in the country. It is surprising that it is completely flat at just 800m above sea level, although 95% of the country's area consists of mountainous regions. Due to the comparatively lower altitude, it is significantly warmer here than in the other regions of the country; while I am writing this article, it is a summery 28°C.

I immediately liked Bishkek. While construction is happening on every corner in this former Soviet planned city and the traffic can be quite adventurous, overall it is less hectic than in Almaty. Particularly beautiful is the proximity to the mountains: right next to the city lies the 'Kyrgyz Range', a part of the Tian Shan, whose highest peak reaches nearly 5000m. It is also easy to reach more rural areas. For example, just 15 km from the city center yesterday, a herd of horses first blocked the road and shortly thereafter a few comfortable cows.

I really can't complain about the food in Bishkek: watermelons are available for €1.50 (per piece, not per kilo!), Lagman tastes great here, and the selection of cookies and snacks in supermarkets is huge. At the same time, you can also find restaurants from all over the world. The day before yesterday, Philipp and I ate a really good pizza, and today we want to go for Korean food.

The Kyrgyz government's efforts to keep history and culture alive are very evident. There is a well-equipped art museum where mainly Kyrgyz artists exhibit, several smaller exhibitions on the Kyrgyz epic 'Manas', as well as numerous statues and sculptures explained through information boards in English. For someone like me, who has only little knowledge of the region so far, this is quite exciting.

But the real highlight (as cliché as it sounds) is the people. I have rarely been welcomed so warmly in a country as here. Even in the big city, there is interest and friendliness everywhere: from the taxi driver who spontaneously invited us to dinner, to adventurous souls who hopped on our rental car for a trip, to young adults learning German to later study medicine in Germany. This hospitality and openness to other cultures have immediately made me feel welcome in Kyrgyzstan and almost at home.

PS: I left the photos from the last days unsorted, so hopefully, you get a good impression of our colorful time here (and a bit of convenience was also involved 😉).

A few impressions from our day hike in Ala-Archa National Park. I find it (as in Almaty) incredible that you can reach such impressive landscapes from the city center in just 45 minutes!

Autumn is slowly making its presence felt in the higher elevations. The few deciduous trees are already shining in beautiful colors.

Our first trip from Bishkek took us to the Burana Tower and then to the mountain lake Song Köl. It took us two days to cover the distance. Not because it was so far, but because the winding mountain roads of Kyrgyzstan can hardly be driven faster than 90 km/h. However, the journey was more than worth it.

The Burana Tower is the remnant of an old minaret that once belonged to a trading center on the Silk Road. An earthquake partially destroyed it, leaving only the stump standing today. Around the tower, stone sculptures, known as Balbals, were erected. They were established throughout the Tien Shan region to honor deceased princes and warlords and also served as protective beings.

The Song Köl Lake lies at about 3000m altitude, right in the middle of the Kyrgyz steppe. There is hardly any tourism there; instead, the herds of nomads graze on the summer pastures. The landscape appears untouched, peaceful, and almost timeless. At night, the stars could be seen incredibly clearly, but it was also bitterly cold. In the morning, we were greeted right in front of our tent by a herd of sheep that was being driven back to pasture :)

I'm in Bishkek today, having arrived and settled in at the guesthouse 'Crocus'. I have a single room with breakfast for $15/night.

The time after my arrival was entirely focused on my visa application for Russia. I needed to schedule an appointment with the embassy and collect copies of various documents. Everything went quite smoothly. A nearby copy shop took care of printing my documents and copying several IDs, all for 50 Som (approximately €0.60 for 12 copies). In the evening, I managed to have a nice meal out, which had been a bit neglected throughout the day. Tomorrow, I intend to make another attempt to find a workshop that might be able to repair the shock absorber. Additionally, I still need half a liter of motor oil (just in case).

Gerrit and Markus set off for Naryn today. They plan to traverse some passes along the way and camp somewhere. Jeroen wants to explore some side valleys on the southern shore of Issyk Kul. I have headed towards Bishkek. On my way there, I made a stop in Tamchy. My accommodation is located right near the beach. The tip came from Gerrit and Markus, who also stayed here on their journey from Bishkek to Karakol. The drive here was very pleasant, and the road became really good starting at KM 120, so the defective shock absorber was hardly noticeable. However, until then, there were the usual construction sites and a few potholes to overcome. In Bishkek, I will take care of the transit visa for Russia. Some posts on social media suggest that it is faster there than in Almaty. Let’s see, I will find out.

After breakfast, Jeroen drove to Song Kul, and I headed towards Issyk Kul. The road was good, allowing me to make good progress. I made a stop in Naryn because I needed cash, something to eat, and to refuel. Afterwards, the journey continued towards the lake. The road was excellent, enabling me to focus more on the beautiful landscape. Upon arriving at the lake, unfortunately, the weather began to worsen. In the middle of a road construction site, a thunderstorm broke out. Stopping was unfortunately not an option. The road was flooded in no time and turned into a muddy mess. Only when I was already wet could I put on my rain gear. Luckily, it wasn't too cold. After some failed attempts, I eventually found a nice place to stay in a guesthouse. There, I met a family from Germany and an American professor who teaches at a university in China. We had a nice conversation during dinner.

Today was another special day. I had already prepared myself to continue my journey alone when Jerome proposed to stick together until just before Naryn and then part ways. Since this meant no change to my travel plans and traveling together is better than alone, especially in case of breakdowns, I didn’t have to think long. After breakfast, we were ready to go when Jerome discovered that the rear tire was flat. It was already noon by the time we finally set off. The first stop was the ATM, which unfortunately is out of service on weekends. I was looking forward to the well-paved road from yesterday, which would help spare my battered shock absorber. However, my joy was short-lived. At the edge of town, it was already over, and the next 150 km were over rough terrain again. Somewhere along the way, just as my fuel gauge was on reserve, Jerome's tire went flat again. While he repaired the tire, I tried to find water and gasoline in a nearby town. I got water but not gasoline. So we siphoned off 3 liters from Jerome and delivered it to my moped. The rest of the journey took us through very impressive landscapes over passes and through valleys. Fortunately, we managed to reach the next gas station and our accommodation without any further breakdowns. Tomorrow we will continue our journey separately. Jerome is heading up to Song Kul while I will continue over Naryn to Issyk Kul. Hopefully, the road will get better soon.

On August 7th, I arrived in Osh together with Jeroen. We stayed at the Parkview Hostel and are in a small room with 6 beds. Tomorrow we plan to go to 'Zorro Motorbike Shop' to carry out some maintenance work. In the evening, we visited a small restaurant and had pizza and pasta.

August 8, 2024: Today was focused on the maintenance work. At Zorro, you can not only get oil and spare parts but also carry out the work on-site using their tools. Except for the attachment of the rear light, everything went smoothly. However, the air filter had detached from the air filter housing, rendering it ineffective. It’s hard to say how that happened. In the afternoon, we had coffee and in the evening, we dined in a small international group.

Tomorrow we head towards Song-Köl via Baetov.

Today I drove to Osh with Jeroen. The road was really good and the 200km was easy to drive. The weather was very nice and we had a great view of Pik Lenin from our accommodation in Sarytash. In Osh we want to carry out some maintenance work. I need to change the oil and clean the air filter, among other things. The screws of the rear light seem to be loose and the chain also needs to be cleaned and lubricated. In the afternoon we went to the market, where I could replace my lost tools and later have something to eat.

As planned, we crossed the border into Kyrgyzstan today. The road to the border was very good. However, that changed immediately before the first checkpoint on the Tajik side. From now on, the road got progressively worse. The Kyzyl-Art Pass, which connects the checkpoints on both sides, was simply barely drivable. I am baffled as to why this is not being fixed. The entire border crossing took us not even two hours, a new record. However, the Kyrgyz customs officer initially could not find me on his list, which is why he initially denied me entry. Only the precise indication of when I was added to that list resolved the issue. Upon arriving in Sarytash, we ended up in a guesthouse/restaurant where many tourists gather. On that day, a few motorcyclists and hikers also passed by. I myself was quite exhausted and relieved when we checked into our hotel. I spent the rest of the day in bed.

Kyrgyzstan showed its best side to us from the beginning: We had just left the Chinese border building when a brand new car stopped next to us and the Kyrgyz driver asked: Can I take you?

So we drove in a fancy electric car (unfortunately of Chinese make) in front of the Kyrgyz border guards and got our stamp. The "health check" consisted of taking our temperature, and after the device stubbornly refused to give a result on my forehead twice (the battery was probably dead), they didn't even try it with Patrie anymore and just wished us a good trip. Total time: 5 minutes.

It was not just the help that followed, but also the fact that the first truck driver took us for two hours and the first person in town drove us to a guesthouse in his car. It was the feeling of security that we suddenly felt. To be safe among people who are simply nice from the bottom of their hearts. These green alpine meadows, where cows and wild horses graze, the wide U-shaped valleys and the snow-capped mountains - they also promise unique living conditions :)

Now I understand why everyone raves about Kyrgyzstan! It is rarely as cozy as there and at the same time the mountains exude a unique sense of freedom. It must have felt like this in the Alps before tourism became big.

Upon our arrival, we were greeted by the smell of cow dung. Many people have alpine farming, which is very similar to the alpine farming in the Alps. In summer, the cows come up to the yurts, while vegetables are grown and hay is harvested in the valley. The food also often reminded us of home. We were able to try many dairy products and dishes in the form of regular milk, yogurt, cream, rice pudding or butter with jam. Everything homemade on the alpine meadows or in the yurts. Only the offered fermented horse milk was, in our view, something for very special connoisseurs :P

The Alai Mountains

We did a lot of hiking!
In the Alai Mountains, we decided to do a 3-day hiking tour. On the first day, we met the Spaniards who we had met at the Chinese border the day before. Spontaneously, we decided to go together. The five of us were taken by a truck to the next hiking village, which was a really funny experience :) A local hotel owner then gave us tips on the best hiking route over a cup of tea and coffee.

Day 1 turned out to be the most athletic, as we started early, but completely misjudged the time. The good Wi-Fi connection at the hotel, a late lunch, and another cup of tea made us start hiking at 5 pm. The sun sets at 8 pm. In the three hours, we covered a total of 1500 meters in altitude and were almost at the summit at 4300m (my second highest peak ever!) at sunset. The air felt as thin as on Mount Everest :D But despite the late hour and the thin air, we safely reached the Sary Mogol Pass. Always keep moving, slowly and steady (maybe also in life?)

In a line with flashlights in front of and behind us, we snaked and sometimes slipped down the mountain. Thanks to good GPS, we arrived at the yurt at midnight (after crossing a wet stream) and first slurped a cup of tea. How the Kyrgyz can still sleep at midnight after drinking green tea is a mystery to me.

Despite the enormous effort, it was an amazing experience with impressive nature and a cold night with a wow-star-filled sky! Even in the next two days of hiking, we were sometimes speechless from the breathtaking beauty.

After our hiking tour, we followed with a 2-day horse riding tour. In my life, I have only ridden a horse for two hours, and now for a whole 2 days! Well, luckily, I had two good riding teachers, Patrie and Aktilek, our guide. By the way, he often works in Germany in winter, on TUI cruise ships, he works in the restaurant. Next winter, he would like to work on a German farm because it is difficult for him as a Muslim to serve alcohol in the TUI restaurant. According to his good German language skills, we were greeted with "Good day, how are you?" and had a lot of fun with him :)

Tomorrow we will be taking a train for the first time! The whole night trains will be very exciting. I'm really looking forward to it!
Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, Russia, Georgia, and Turkey are still ahead of us!

Uzbekistan is hot!
Uzbekistan is nice!
We will have a lot of time for more poetry!

Arrival on June 30, 2022, Franzi takes us to Bochum at 12 p.m., IC 591 to Frankfurt at 12:47 p.m., flight over Istanbul to Bishkek at 6:50 p.m.

On July 1, 2022, transfer to the hotel, rest, lunch at the restaurant, city tour, visit to the Osh Bazaar, dinner at the restaurant, rooftop terrace.

On July 2, 2022, bus ride to Ala Valley at 2100m altitude, 5-hour hike to the big waterfall, picnic, own dinner after shopping at the supermarket on the rooftop terrace.

On July 3, 2022, bus ride 324km over 2 passes with 3100m altitude to Toktogul Lake, picnic by the river, cheese making, stop at the beekeepers, swimming in the lake in front of the old Russian hotel.

On July 4, bus ride along several reservoirs to the Uzbek border. Lunch in Abdiraimov. After arriving in Arslanbob, we take a walk through the tourist mile to the small waterfall. Dinner at Ibragim's.

On July 5, hike to the big waterfall. Lunch at the host's house. Russian GAZ Jeep ride to the walnut forest. Viewpoint and swing. Visit to the mausoleum in the village. Break and dinner at the guesthouse.

On July 6, continue to Kasaman. We drive back south to the plain. Rice and corn are grown here and it is warm on the border with Uzbekistan. The main road is being expanded to 4 lanes. In dusty Kochkor-Ata, we sit at a low table on carpets and eat a la carte. We pass Djalamabad. Stop at the pharmacy. I have a bad cold, but no Corona. Then back up and down the gravel road to the pass. We stay with a family in Kasarman. Dinner. The daughter talks about her studies and career aspirations. Walk through the uncomfortable village.

On July 7, drive to Song Kul: Through the wide Naryn River Valley, then through the mountains parallel. Several photo stops with beautiful views, flowers and canyons. The pass with the camels, picnic in the meadow by the mountain stream, and then Gulzada's favorite pass, the Toguz Toro, and we get champagne. We settle in the yurt at Song Kul and I hit my head on the low entrance. Short walk over the edelweiss meadows. Dinner. SU. Briefing with singing and vodka.

On July 8, Son Kul at 9:00 a.m. breakfast; 10 a.m. equestrian competitions: picking up money, kissing a woman, bringing a goat to the finish line, throwing from the saddle; 11 a.m. horseback ride or rest; 1 p.m. lunch; 2:05 p.m. walk to the rock carvings from the 3rd century BC. With a stop at milking mares and trying mare's milk and fermented milk. We see many fat marmots. From 4 p.m. descend to the flock of sheep. A goat gets into the trunk. 7 p.m. dinner. 8:15 p.m. SU

On July 9, continue to Kochkor 130 km over the Kajmak Pass at 3460 m. Animal market. Lunch. Felting. Cemetery. Dinner and folklore.

On July 10, yurt builder village Kyzyl-Tuu on the southern shore of Issyk Kul with crochet from sheep intestines and boules made from lamb's knee bones. Meeting with the eagle hunter. Lunch in the yurt of the guesthouse in Bokonbaevo. Hike to the red rocks of Ak Sai.

On July 11, Skazka Canyon. Swimming and picnic by the lake. Broken Heart and 7 Oxen 🐂. My hotel in Karakol and Dungan cuisine.

12.7. Along the northern shore of Issyk Kul. 340km. We pass Tyup with a turnoff towards Kazakhstan. We look at the snow mountains in the south. We skip the hike to Lake Suttuu Bulak in the Ak-Tal due to the thunderstorm. After the picnic, we drive to Cholpon-Ata. Here there are rock carvings and a thermal bath. The line is long today, so we only have 45 minutes to relax. At the rest area, near the toilet, I pick up my forgotten things from Karsaman. A taxi transported them for a small fee. In the evening, we reach the Chong Kemin Valley. The guesthouse surprises us with its size and modern wooden architecture.

On July 13, in the Chong Kemin Valley. Hike to the viewpoint under birch trees. Passing colorful flowers, butterflies, and wild bees. Lunch in the next village at Gulzada's parents' house. Dressing up for the group photo. Dismantling and building the yurt with the park ranger. In the evening, we make a campfire, listen to the Manas epic told by the Polish group, and wait for the moonrise.

On July 14, last trip to Burana. Visit to the tower, gravestones, and museum. Lunch with Lagman. We sing our song about the 2 little wolves for Gulzada and Sascha. Now we continue on our own with Marshrutka No. 309. Evening walk to the lush meadows and the creek.

On July 15, hike in the Chong Kemin Valley: we walk on the country road to 'Mannsdorf' Kaindy after a peaceful start in the morning at 9:45 a.m. Unfortunately, only cars are coming towards us, so we can only hitch a ride for 200m in the village. We don't know exactly where we want to go today. If a car would drive up the valley on the gravel road, we could walk to the lake. Since none comes, we turn left towards Avaskan after 2km. Some water flows over the troublesome path and I slide and land in the puddle. In the shade by the creek in front of the cemetery, I need a thorough wash. The sun quickly dries me on the way through the meadows. Hay is loaded onto the trailer with a fork here.

On July 16, hike to the summer pastures on the south side. We start from the guesthouse along the creek. We pass beekeepers. After an hour, we take a break by the creek. Several riders encounter us, as well as 2 boys on a donkey. The path is still wide, easily recognizable, and marked on my map. But to go up, we have to find our own way. Surprisingly, we manage quite well, even though the paths are sometimes very overgrown and thorny. At lunchtime, we don't have a panoramic view yet and we continue climbing. At 2621m, we enjoy the great view at the treeline over the spruces with their black cones. We descend again at 3 p.m. Below the trees, we choose the path to Kaindy. If we hurry, we can catch the Marshrutka again at 5:10 p.m. But we don't need it because a family's station wagon takes us 3km before and brings us to the store in Karool-Diobio. We buy ice cream, cola, and beer for refreshment and ride back to the bridge with the passing Marshrutka. We refresh ourselves by the creek, then relax on the bed. After dinner, I take another walk and we discuss our trip to the Chong Kemin Valley tomorrow in long conversations. Unfortunately, my father is still not feeling better in the hospital with his pneumonia. He speaks little on the phone and I consider flying home earlier.

On July 17, we have arranged a car for the drive to the valley. It costs 4000 som = 55€ for the whole day. Gulzada's uncle picks us up with the Mercedes pickup truck on time at 9 a.m. There is a stop in Kaindy. Fuel is organized and filled into the tank from 2 ex-water canisters. The small truck is shaken well with every pothole. The driver tries to avoid the biggest ones, so we make slow progress in serpentine lines. It takes almost two hours for the 27km. The rear men spin at a steep spot. We complain with stones on the truck bed and take the spot with a run-up. The wide, chalky white river has a lot of water. Once there is a ford marked on the map, but with this water level, I can't imagine crossing there. Just behind the barrier to the protected area, we switch vehicles. We float 3m above the river on 2 ropes with a basket on 4 wheels. Our hike starts with fat high meadows on a narrow path uphill and then along the slope downstream. After an hour, we reach a dirt road. The actual ascent from 500m to the lake begins here. It's warm and we are happy about every shady spot. We pass two small ponds. After a total of 2½ hours, we look at the blue idyllic lake. On the other side, we have our picnic under little willows. 3 cormorants sit on a log in the lake in front of us. We test the water with our feet. It is too shallow for swimming here. At 3 p.m., we walk around the entire lake and mostly return the same way. A shortcut leads very steeply through the pine forest. Shortly after 5 p.m., we are back in the Mercedes. 2 young riders with their horses also join us. After dinner, we sit in the garden and Gulzada's nephew involves us in his giraffe game.
On July 18, after a hearty breakfast with chicken soup, we take the Marshrutka towards Bishkek at 9:15 a.m. It is already full of women and small children. One woman takes her 2 children on her lap so that I can also sit. The boy is not feeling well. He vomits into a bag three times while another 10 people get on. Most of them get off in Kemmin. We are lucky in Tokmok and directly get a connection with the 383 to ^eskhoz after some asking, which is very close to our guesthouse. At the end of the journey, we are almost alone on the bus. A pickup truck is ready and picks up a woman with a child. We react quickly and can ride the 2½ km to the guesthouse with them. After lunch, we set off to the waterfall in the neighboring valley. A car takes us to the intersection and later we hitch a ride on a truck bed. That's fun! The waterfall is already crowded with many buses and there is plenty of posing for photos. You can walk behind the beautiful waterfall. Unfortunately, Ulla is not feeling well at all. She is really sick. We sit down on the picnic area. Cooking, grilling and heating the samovar are in full swing here. On the way back, we have to walk most of the way. Ulla lies down in bed and I read by the creek until the sun sets. Unfortunately, there is no Wi-Fi or network here. With the help of the hostess, I can check my emails and confirm the rescheduling for the return flight.

Today's stage was my last in Asia for an indefinite period of time. Thanks to the good preparation the day before, it was only about 80 kilometers to the Kyrgyz capital. There was still a small pass to conquer, but nothing too challenging. During a small lunch break in Alga, I had to change my tube for the first time! I had broken the valve while pumping, so technically I still didn't have a flat tire. I used my last spare tube, the other one I had given to Aman. But I was almost back in Germany, so what could go wrong!

In the afternoon, I was once again at the border of Kyrgyzstan. The crossing was not comparable to the fun I had in Kegen. It was crowded, and there was no agreement on how to deal with cyclists. I first stood in line with the pedestrians but was sent to the cars by the officer. There, I was sent away again and told to join the pedestrians. A bit annoyed, I returned to the first officer. When he tried to send me away again, I interrupted him and made it clear that this wouldn't lead to anything and that I had to pass through here. So, all the bags were unstrapped again and sent through the scanner. He asked me if I had a knife with me. With the answer: 'Yes, two, and gasoline too,' he was not expecting that and seemed overwhelmed. I was allowed to keep everything, and he still let me through, probably because he didn't feel like working. The actually annoying part came next. The border crossing was not designed for bicycles, there were several turnstiles. That meant every time I had to unstrap all the bags, lift the bike over the turnstile, and load everything again. A lot of fun, especially with pushy and impatient locals! It took almost 1.5 hours until I was finally back in Kyrgyzstan. Since I liked the hostel last time, I checked in there again. The friendly host offered to help me find a bike box for the flight. She made some phone calls and finally found a bike shop where I got a box for the equivalent of 1.50€ on the same day. After that, we cooked together and chatted with the Russian residents who I already knew from my first stay.

The next day, it was finally time for sightseeing in the city. Since the hostel was a bit outside, I hadn't seen anything of the center so far. I walked for what felt like an eternity, although the major sights are close together. The Victory Square, Panfilov Park, and of course Ala-Too Square are worth a visit. Several large museums and theaters are also located in this district. Overall, Bishkek has many well-restored or new buildings to offer and is very clean. It is clear that a large part of Kyrgyz wealth flows into the capital. In addition to sightseeing, I also bought a few things for the return flight, such as tape. I also managed to break the second valve while dismantling my bike, so I wouldn't have been able to continue from Frankfurt. Getting a replacement in Bishkek was not easy. I asked at several bike shops until I had success at the bazaar. Who would have thought that a small shop in the middle of the bazaar would have a better selection than the bike shops? Storing the bike in the box was much harder this time. The box belonged to a youth bike, so this time everything really had to be dismantled.

The last day in Asia arrived for me. I managed to book a day trip through the hostel and even found a companion from Israel, Ilan. We were dropped off by the husband of our host at Ala-Archa National Park. We hiked and picnicked for about three hours in the best weather. In the afternoon, I still had plenty of time to pack, and in the evening, Ilan and I took a taxi to a pub where we enjoyed a few beers for trip preparation. Around 10 pm, the father of our host drove me to the airport. He was visibly happy to be able to practice English again and was very entertaining. Of course, I arrived at the airport way too early but wanted to make sure with my bike box. Again, it had to be checked whether I had already paid for the bike. Finally, at half past two in the morning, I set off towards Istanbul and from there to Frankfurt. I was very excited about a few weeks off from cycling and the time with my family and Laura. Only at the end of July, I was planning a leisurely final tour in Europe!

We made it late at night to Sary-Mogul, slept there at a homestay of a local family and went in the next morning with a ride provided by the CBT (community based tourism) people into the mountains. We didn't go directly to the camp but made a stop at a canyon. Here are some first impressions, also there are marmots (German: Murmeltiere). They are super cute and make funny bird-like noises when potential predators come close. If we came too close they all would disappear into their holes, which proved to be a little bit dangerous when covered by snow.

You can't see the marmots very well, later I'll show you a better picture 😌

The photos were taken at an elevation of 3500m. The mountains you see in the picture can easily be 6000m or higher!There are actually people living here, mostly shepherds. You can (barely) see in the center of the picture that a yurt is being built by locals.

That black line are all sheep!

As we arrived at the basecamp we got our yurt immediately heated. Technically it was Hanna's and Max's yurt since I wanted to stay in a tent but I used it as a living room and was very happy that it was heated.

Fire got started with some dried cow shit, then filled with coal. At this altitude there are no trees growing anymore and the coal mine is nearby. A ton of coal costs here 3000 som, that's about 35€... Heating of these yurts is cheap.

Luckily I pitched my tent before it started to snow!

I guess the horse also wasn't amused..

This is Max, checking how deep the snow is (we got maybe 5cm until sundown).

I was afraid that I wasn't up to the task sleeping there even though it's only -5°C during the night and put on almost everything I had. That's 3 socks, leggings + 2 trousers, thermo long sleeve, t-shirt, hoodie, down jacket from Hanna, my own fleece jacket. In the tent were 2 isolating mattresses (one was mine, the other one from Hanna) and the bad-ass sleeping bag I carried all the time with me (thanks for that ❤️).

This is how it looked like in the morning, we had snow until 4 at night. I was actually so warm that I removed both jackets during the night and thought about removing one of the pants.

We had a clear sky in the morning and awesome views!

Somehow Hanna's shoes got completely wet in the yurt and she had to dry them before she could go hiking so Max and I started alone and went for the next basecamp. There are 4 of these camps to get to the highest mountain called Lenin peak that has an impressive altitude of over 7100 meters! It's supposedly one of the easiest 7000+ mountains, a guided tour takes about 20 days (with acclimatization).The views were just fantastic and in the end we easily found the basecamp, it was already populated by locals! They offered us chai, food and vodka. 

Let's just put it this way.. there was no vodka anymore when we left 😂

There are cows and even yaks around! We encountered the yaks later and the snow has already melted away.

During the evening I went up a small hill to capture the sunset as good as possible - in the end the clouds of the day left and Lenin peak was visible from our basecamp!

It doesn't look 'so' high as 7100m right? 

The picture above shows the picturesque spot the basecamp is at! This platform doesn't allow zooming in to photos, so here is a zoom:

Here you can see the yurts. My tent was already gone at that moment.

We played some cards in the evening and I went for the second night into the tent.

We left at 7 in the next morning because Max had to catch a flight 2 days after and still wanted to see the Alay mountains, so that's where we went straight afterwards. Our destination was Besh Kol, its four lakes surrounded by huge, snow-capped mountains. We had 6 hours to get there and back, CBT people told us that would be possible but in the end it wasn't. We did not get to the lakes, not even close enough to get a glimpse of one of them which still makes me a little bit sad. But it was also without lakes a great hike, here are some pictures of the way:

We also had to do a river crossing, let me tell you that these rivers are freezing cold 😂

We saw more marmots and this time I got a good photo of one of them!

It started to hail on our way back but that's at least better than rain since we didn't get wet.

As we left the mountains we stayed at another homestay because I was too tired to keep going. I started to get sick at this time, got a cold. Probably from sleeping in the tent two nights. After some rest, we (that is Hanna and me, Max left in the afternoon to Osh) went hitchhiking back into the north to visit Milan, a friend we met during hitchhiking a couple of days ago. But as we arrived in his city he didn't respond and we didn't know where to go, so we kept on hitchhiking to Osh. The driver bought some plants which a little boy sold on the street, peeled it and gestured us to eat it. We believe it's wild rhubarb.

Later I went shopping on the bazaar and asked how much these super not-fake watches cost. The most expensive one is €10, I could probably get the price down to €7 or €8. If you want one, hit me up 😉 Rolex, Prada, Armani..

Hanna and I will go different ways after Osh, I'll meet again with Mara in Tajikistan, Hanna will move to the east of Kyrgyzstan. 4 weeks is a lot of time to spend together but we will probably see each other again before the journey ends. 

We decided to eat something fancy for our last evening together and went for sushi.

Many restaurants here have cabins which can be closed with curtains, that was also the case in this sushi place. It's a little bit weird to sit in there just on your own.

The sushi itself was.. experimental. It was also warm? We ordered a mixed plate that looked fancy and some of these rolls came with cheese. We weren't huge fans to be honest 😂

As I'm typing these lines Hanna already left to Bishkek, I'm staying one night more in Osh and will go tomorrow morning to Tajikistan. Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan have some political issues right now and the borders are closed so I have to go through Uzbekistan again. I'm not sure if I'll make it to the capital Dushanbe tomorrow but I should be able to make it at least into the country.

Hanna and I went for another hike in Arslanbob, and this one proved to be really challenging! We gained 1300m of altitude, and sometimes the inclination was 45°. We met plenty of cows and horses along the way. There were a few locals minding their own business, but apart from that, we had the entire mountain to ourselves.

The picture above shows the 'holy rock'. We didn't figure out what it was holy for, but there was a ladder, so I guess it's okay that we climbed it.

I carried the hammock with me to spend some more time at higher altitudes to get better acclimatized for heights. It was lovely just above the river 🤩

We then hitchhiked to Gulcha, which is on the way to Sary-Mogol. Sary Mogol is between the Alay and the Pamir mountains. Both are incredible mountain ranges with peaks over 7000m! The town itself is already at 3000m.

And there was a sauna, which was super crazy. A Kyrgyzian guy told everyone who went in that the door will stay shut for at least ten minutes and yelled at everyone (mainly teenagers) who wanted to get in that the door stays shut. We didn't understand a word, but we understood what he said 😂

After that, we continued hitchhiking on the same day and were really lucky with it! We got to Sary-Mogol on the same evening. We found a place to sleep and went during the next morning to a basecamp in the mountains. I'll write the next entry about these mountains in a few days. It's super crazy here!

A little spoiler: This is where I slept.

After a short rain shower, the climax came: I only had the option to turn around and go back to Karakol or push my bike up a hill full of rocks. My navigation called it a 'road', but the term is relative. Even while pushing, I got so out of breath that I had to take breaks. When I finally reached the top, the path got slightly better, and I saw a few nomads with their animals and yurts. I think they had never seen a cyclist up there before, I only received confused looks and head shaking. After a few kilometers, I went downhill again on an equally bumpy track, I wouldn't even have ridden it with a mountain bike. Somewhat frustrated, I eventually reached another 'main road' (which was also mostly made of sand and gravel), by now it was clear that I wouldn't make it to Kazakhstan today. There were no shops or reception, no chance. After another five kilometers, I set up my tent on a meadow next to a small river, and I was sure that I would definitely remain undiscovered there. Three nomads with their herds proved me wrong, especially the cows almost trampled over my tent out of confusion. Nevertheless, I liked the place, and it was peaceful at night.

So after our party night and hangover day in Bukhara (Hanna actually went another night partying but with Dani) we went back to Osh to pick up our mountain equipment we left at Bekturs. Dani went the same way so we went together. Our original plan was that Hanna takes a train to Andijan which is the town close to the Kyrgyz border and Dani and I hitchhike to the same place. But it was rainy in the morning and hitchhiking is then just no fun then, especially because I still have no shoes that give any protection from water. It's either flip flops or sneakers. Anyway then we all wanted to go by train and went to the train station. We were kinda stressed when we arrived but still had 15 minutes to get the tickets (it's not the fastest process here). Well, turns out we were at the wrong station! Taschkent, Uzbekistan's capital, has two stations, one in the north and one in the south. So also our train plan didn't work. Next train would've been in 4 hours. Sooo we settled in the end for a shared taxi. Not the cheapest option and we found one for 500,000 som (yes, half a million. 1€ = 11,500 som). So that's a little over 40€ for the three of us but 3 train tickets to Andijan and than a shared taxi to the border would've cost us around 360,000 som and we didn't have to wait for the next train, were comfy in a warm car (we have been kinda wet) and could stop whenever we needed a toilet or some food and were brought directly to the border. I wish taxis for almost 6 hours were so cheap back home.

Anyway in the end we made it to the border. A dirty, chaotic border but everything went smooth. We met another group of travelers, Germans actually, one of them used to live in Kyrgyzstan for a year. He is now my official consultant for any questions like 'Can I drink in public?' or stuff like that.

Back in Kyrgyzstan we still had some Kyrgyz money, put the Kyrgyz sim cards in our smartphones and went without further ado to the next mashrutka. Much to the disliking of the taxi drivers there waiting for a job. One funny fella offered us to drive us to the mashrutka 😂 (it's just 300 meters). We became pretty much professional at this stuff. Once you know how everything works it's really nice.

We went back to the hostel in Osh which we already knew from our first time there and went pretty much straight to sleep. We've been tired and the last nights were all exhausting.

In the morning we texted Bektur when we could get our stuff back and sadly it was in the evening so we had to spend another day in Osh. Buuut it's not the worst city to do so. Hanna had a broken clip on her backpack and we went to repair that. We found the right store, it should be open according to its timetable but it was super closed. We were at a loss and didn't know where else to go but two friendly Kyrgyz guys also just went to this closed shop. We had a short chat and they decided to take us with them since we were looking for the same thing. They were there with a car and suddenly we had locals showing us in god-speed three different repair shops (mainly for shoes but these repair-dudes don't really care as long as they can sew and glue whatever you give them). We needed three because no one had these clips to replace but the third one knew where to get them! We bought the clip and the job was done in 5 minutes. And guess where that was? Rule number 1: Whatever you want, it's to be found at a bazar. This applies also for repair-dudes and clips. Afterwards we strolled over the bazar and I bought some SUPER good pistachios. I got 300 grams for just a little over 3€. In the evening we had some beers, went to Bektur's place and surprised him with some German pralines we found in a supermarket to thank him for taking our stuff while we were in Uzbekistan.

In the next morning we went to our next trekking location: Arslanbob. That's a small village with 11,000 people in the mountains. We chose to go by bus and I took the front seat next to the driver. Best choice! I had much space for my feet and great views. At some point on the road we picked up this old car seat:

I thought the driver found it on the road and decided to re-use it. But then after a couple of hours we stopped and someone took the chair, we were a delivery truck and that was planned! We also had a letter for someone waiting on the road in the middle of nowhere. I guess these buses don't only transport humans but everything that's paid for.

And there just wasn't enough space for the cars to pass and allow the excavator to work simultaneously so we had to wait until the operator thought it was about time to let us pass 😂

Here in Kyrgyzstan, they have so-called CBT offices. That's short for 'community-based tourism' and they are basically the most helpful tourist information I've ever experienced. The CBT people try to connect tourists with locals to cut out big companies, keep money within the country, obviously help the locals, and it's not expensive! Perfect system! We talked a day before via Telegram and he showed us their (tiny and cute) office in the town, told us all there is to know about the town: animal market the next morning, hikes, waterfalls, dress code for women (covered shoulders, pants longer than the knees), and gave us a recommendation for one of the 14 (!!) homestays they have in this town. He also asked us if we wanted to pay 800 or 1000 soms per night (€9.50 or €11.50) and even said we could pay less than 800 if we couldn't afford that. Really cool system, and we loved the transparency and honesty.This is the garden of our new home. Lovely place with a lovely family. While I was on the phone in the hammock between the trees in the picture above, the mom just gave me her baby and took a photo, I think because she liked the looks of it 😂 I still have to get this photo, I hope I'll make it tomorrow!

In the picture above is the animal market. Honestly, it was kinda cool but also very chill. Kyrgyz people are just very chill. You would imagine shouting, animals blaring, people bargaining wildly, loud music... but no. Nothing but some moo-ing from the cows that were around.

But what's funny are the asses of these sheep. It's like Kardashian style or something, they just have a proper ass 🍑

No idea what for, I read on some blog on the internet that it's fat, and Kyrgyz people like the fat for cooking. I could really believe that but don't know for sure (yet).

After the animal market, we went to see this waterfall and the mountains from a little bit more up close.

But these mountains are still far. We will go closer tomorrow. There is also a 4-day hike and the possibility to rent a donkey. While I really, really would LOVE to go hiking with a donkey, the 4-day trek isn't really worth the effort and we will not do it. But I'll try to get a donkey in the future, I really like the idea 🤩We also went to this walnut tree forest which is supposedly the biggest in the world!

Oh and then we went to a second waterfall:

In the river that is following the waterfall is a big pipe:

If you look closely, you'll see that it's made out of MANY individual barrels that are welded together:

I found that somehow intriguing. No clue what the pipe is good for and I would assume it rusts away fast, but it was interesting nonetheless.

One last picture for this blog entry, I'll go showering and drop dead to bed. Have a great time everyone, see you soon ❤️

In Karakol, I had originally planned for a rest day, but it turned into three. This was partly due to Jalil and his family, who welcomed me incredibly warmly and integrated me immediately; it definitely wasn't a hostel in the classical sense, I was used, among other things, to entertain his three children. Furthermore, I could use the break well and even had a room for myself. As if that weren't reason enough, Jalil also had his birthday on the second day. Because he had told me that he had lived in Barcelona for a few years, I found the perfect gift in the city's largest supermarket: a Spanish red wine! He was very happy about it, and I had to drink some homemade schnapps with his brothers and answer all sorts of questions about myself. I needed the third rest day to calm down my stomach again. Did I eat something wrong, or was it the schnapps after all?

If you don't have the luck to stay with a Kyrgyz family, everything worth seeing in Karakol can be done in one day. A highlight is the Trinity Church, which was largely put together from wood. There is also the Dungan Mosque to visit, which looks much more like a Chinese pagoda, an unusual mix!

In Karakol, I was also able to exchange some Kazakh tenge at a currency exchange office. The exchange rate was even better than the official one, which confused me a bit, but it probably wasn't counterfeit money! After four relaxing days with a warm family, I was finally ready for Kazakhstan.

After 70 kilometers, I arrived in Cholpon-Ata, a well-known holiday resort on Issyk Kul Lake. A little above the town, you can find many petroglyphs that were worth the small detour. But the place was too expensive for overnight stay, I preferred to find a nice campsite by the lake. The clouds slowly gathered, but after another 30 kilometers, I found a place that seemed secluded enough to me. That wasn't easy on Issyk Kul Lake because of the many hotels and holiday resorts. A few hundred meters away from me, I could still see some workers on the beach. Just as I had set up my tent, it started to rain, so I cooked again in the porch. That didn't bother me, only my power bank ran out faster than expected. With a light, calming rain, I went to bed early.

The next morning we started our (for now) last stage together. There were still a few meters of altitude to overcome as Lake Issyk-Kul is located at 1600 meters above sea level. During the ascent, our water became scarce, but unexpectedly we found a closed down restaurant with a working well. Later, we were able to enjoy our ride through the Kök-Moynok Canyon. We also had to rescue a small snake from the road before we could already see the huge lake from a distance. After Lake Titicaca, it is the second largest mountain lake in the world! We reached the town of Balykchy in the early afternoon and decided to celebrate the day by visiting a Caykhana (small roadside restaurant) again. Afterwards, we did some shopping and a few kilometers east we found a nice beach to spend the night. After cycling together for two weeks, it was of course clear that Aman had to stick the flag of Kyrgyzstan!

Later in the evening, a thunderstorm passed us and created a great atmosphere of light. However, we remained virtually dry as the clouds intensified and rained over the northern mountains and the lake. We cooked our favorite dish again (improvised, slightly burnt stew) and sat by the lake until it got dark.

In the afternoon, Aman had a flat tire again. During the repair break, a curious schoolboy joined us and accompanied us to the next village. He was very excited about exotic coins. We bought supplies in Kemin before we went in search of a nice camping spot. It looked promising at the Tschuy River, but it took us a while to find a more secluded spot. After setting up our tents and just when we wanted to cook, another curious farmer passed by with his herd. He probably owned the land, but he didn't mind us being there. We couldn't reach the river because the bank was too overgrown, but fortunately, our last shower wasn't that long ago!

We had the last stage ahead of us to the capital, Bishkek. The detour to the Chinese tunnel had caused a bit of delay, but on the other hand, we also experienced a lot and got to know lovely locals like Jaffar. We initially drove a few more kilometers through the valley before a wide plain opened up in front of us. Then we went through some small villages before Bishkek's suburbs started. By lunchtime, we were only 25 kilometers away from Bishkek, so we had plenty of time for a proper portion of Samsa. In the afternoon, we arrived at the cozy hostel with a dormitory in a yurt. The hostess spoke very good English, which was also a relief for Aman. After all, he had been acting as my interpreter for days. In the evenings, we cooked together again. What looked like a bell pepper turned out to be a completely oversized chili pepper (at least it tasted that way), but we survived that as well. In Bishkek, we took another day off, but we didn't explore the city yet. I had already booked a return flight to Germany from Bishkek in mid-June, so I knew I would come back again. Aman had plans to meet friends in Bishkek at the end of May and then had enough time to explore the city. So we used the day for rest and further planning. We realized that we would still make it together to Issyk Kul Lake, the pearl of Central Asia, but unfortunately our plans would diverge after that.