This is indeed a lasting experience in the Baltics: There are few people around between the Baltic Sea, rivers, and lakes, amidst nearly endless pine and birch forests.

Quiet - we have found you!

And when we do get into conversation at the campsites, the big questions of life always come up: Where do we come from and where are we going?😃

Wherever we/you have been, it was at least nice or great; it’s very rare to hear 'terrible' or 'never again'. Problems like flat tires or dead car batteries happen, but by the time we’re telling the stories, they’re already resolved. It’s wonderful to see that everyone still has plans and shows curiosity about this world.

By the way, we spend a lot of time poring over travel and camping guides to discuss and ultimately decide the next stops on our journey, as we travel without a 'big plan'.

In camping, the gender roles are also set: The men drive the more or less heavy vehicle to the campsite. Once arrived, the woman takes over and decides on the pitch. Yes, a clear division of roles can make life easier.😀

We can only distinguish them by the license plates of their cars, as all the languages are foreign to us. When listening, we sometimes believe we can differentiate between various language rhythms.

We must confess that before our trip, we knew almost nothing about the three Baltic states. Yes, a bit of history, but otherwise?

No Baltic personalities come to mind for us, except for the Estonian politician Kaja Kallas, because she appears in our news broadcasts warning about Putin, and the Latvian striker from Arminia, who mostly sits on the bench. Even with street names or monuments, we haven’t yet had a moment where we say 'oh yes, that one.'

So, in terms of education, quite a disaster! How can that be?

Peace by the lake instead of Ballermann! Compost toilet instead of wellness hotel! Sitting under apple trees instead of tourist animation!

Here, there's undertourism and the locals are happy when you come. Is there anything more beautiful in life than being wanted?

How precious are contrary experiences: When our car wouldn’t start one morning as we were leaving the campsite, we were quickly surrounded by helpful fellow campers (the masculine form chosen deliberately 😃). Even though the skills were certainly varied, their solidarity at least got us to the next workshop. Here, the car battery was swiftly replaced, but unfortunately, the problem seems not yet resolved; the electronics are malfunctioning somewhere. But what remains is the precious experience.

After exploring the town of Kuldiga, where we admired not the highest (2 meters) but the widest (275 meters!) waterfall in Europe, along with a beautiful sculpture park, we find ourselves in the evening at a cozy campsite with many apple trees and two saunas, but without any guests and especially without an owner.

We did seek thrilling experiences. Now we have them:

'Lost in paradise', after all.

After the hustle and bustle of Riga, we seek relaxation by the coast and find ourselves at a lovely campsite in Jurmala, right at the forest edge close to the beach. It’s quiet at first, but by the first evening a large English family turns the place into a mess of trash and noise.

We go on a hike to the orthodox church “Sv. Prince Vladimir” in Jurmala. Halfway there, blisters start to bother our feet, so we take the bus for the rest of the way. In the evening, we spontaneously take a trip to Ķemeri to visit another beautiful church and a large park. The walk back on foot becomes a challenge, as we keep running from horseflies and mosquitoes.

After a restless night filled with loud techno music, we move on to Gauja National Park. Arriving in Raiskums, we enjoy the stunning lakeside location, even though our neighbors throw a noisy retiree party.

The next morning, we take the bus to Cēsis and then on to Sigulda. From there, we hike—this time equipped with blister plasters—to Sigulda Castle and Gutmann’s Cave. The trail leads us up and down many stairs before we arrive, drenched in sweat, at the impressive Turaida Castle. The old fortress is well restored and invites exploration.

The return trip is by bus, that much is clear. Cēsis also has an old castle and charming alleys, though construction work somewhat mars the idyll. In the evening, it’s back to camp—shoes off and feet up.

Unfortunately, the campsite pizzeria is closed on Mondays—our pizza dreams after the hike are dashed. The next day is all about reading, lounging, and waiting for the pizzeria to finally open.

Wet Trails, Baltic Tales

It seems that it was very cold again last night; there was a thin layer of frost on the cars. Before I set off, I bought some supplies for the road nearby, specifically my daily ration of milk and a yogurt for breakfast. I usually don't need more than that. I only have breakfast if it’s included in the room price; but even then, I don’t need much. Riding a bike is easier without a load in my stomach.

The ride started exactly as it ended yesterday. The weather was again lovely, cold, and windy. However, the wind was relatively weak and came from the right side, that is, from the west.

There was not much to see on the way today; actually, I only passed through two towns on this long stretch. Along this federal road, there were no nice rest areas, so I just kept pedaling. As a result, I reached my destination by 2 PM. Now I have plenty of time for a little walk.

Here are a few details from the internet:

Liepāja is a charming city on the west coast of Latvia, located on the shores of the Baltic Sea. It is known for its rich history, cultural diversity, and architectural heritage.

1. **History**: Liepāja was founded in the 13th century and has developed over the centuries into an important trading center. The city played a significant role during the Tsarist period and in the 20th century, especially during World War I and II.

2. **Architecture**: The city features an impressive mix of Art Nouveau and brick buildings. Particularly notable are the splendid facades and the historic train station, which is among the oldest in Latvia.

3. **Beaches**: Liepāja is known for its long sandy beaches, ideal for sun worshippers and water sports enthusiasts. The 'Liepu' beach offers numerous leisure opportunities and a relaxed atmosphere.

Liepāja is a fascinating travel destination that combines history, culture, and nature, making it perfect for a visit – ideal for travelers seeking both relaxation and exploration!

https://www.komoot.com/de-DE/tour/2194272028?ref=itd

---

**Español:**

También esta noche aparentemente hizo mucho frío; había una fina capa de hielo en los coches. Antes de salir, compré algo para el camino cerca de aquí, específicamente mi ración diaria de leche y un yogur para el desayuno. Normalmente, no necesito más. Solo desayuno si está incluido en el precio de la habitación; pero incluso entonces, no necesito mucho. Andar en bicicleta es más fácil sin peso en el estómago.

El viaje comenzó como había terminado ayer. Hizo un tiempo maravilloso, frío y ventoso. Sin embargo, el viento era relativamente débil y venía desde el lado derecho, es decir, desde la dirección oeste.

No había mucho que ver en el camino hoy; en realidad, solo crucé dos localidades en esta larga ruta. A lo largo de esta carretera nacional no había bonitos lugares para parar, así que simplemente continué pedaleando. Así fue que llegué a mi destino a las 14 horas. Ahora tengo tiempo suficiente para dar un pequeño paseo.

Aquí hay un par de informaciones del internet:

Liepāja es una encantadora ciudad en la costa oeste de Letonia, situada a orillas del mar Báltico. Es conocida por su rica historia, diversidad cultural y patrimonio arquitectónico.

1. **Historia**: Liepāja fue fundada en el siglo XIII y se ha desarrollado a lo largo de los siglos como un importante centro comercial. La ciudad jugó un papel significativo durante la época de los zares y en el siglo XX, especialmente durante la Primera y la Segunda Guerra Mundial.

2. **Arquitectura**: La ciudad se caracteriza por una impresionante mezcla de edificios de estilo art nouveau y de ladrillo. Son especialmente notables las maravillosas fachadas y la estación histórica, que es una de las más antiguas de Letonia.

3. **Playas**: Liepāja es conocida por sus largas playas de arena, ideales para los amantes del sol y los deportes acuáticos. La playa 'Liepu' ofrece numerosas opciones de ocio y un ambiente relajado.

Liepāja es un fascinante destino de viaje que combina historia, cultura y naturaleza, ideal para quienes buscan tanto relajación como exploración.

---

**English:**

Also, it was apparently very cold again this night; there was a thin layer of frost on the cars. Before I set off, I bought something for the journey nearby, specifically my daily ration of milk as well as a yogurt for breakfast. Normally, I don’t need more than that. I only have breakfast if it’s included in the room price; even then, I don’t need much. Riding a bike is easier without a burden in the stomach.

The ride began as it ended yesterday. The weather was again lovely, cold, and windy. However, the wind was relatively weak and came from the right side, that is, from the west.

There was not much to see on the way today; in fact, I only passed through two towns on this long stretch. Along this federal road, there were no nice resting spots, so I just kept pedaling. Thus, I arrived at my destination by 2 PM. Now I still have enough time for a little walk.

Here are a few bits of information from the internet:

Liepāja is a charming city on the west coast of Latvia and lies on the shore of the Baltic Sea. It is known for its rich history, cultural diversity, and architectural heritage.

1. **History**: Liepāja was founded in the 13th century and has developed over the centuries into an important trading center. The city played a significant role during the Tsarist period and in the 20th century, especially during World War I and II.

2. **Architecture**: The city is characterized by an impressive mix of Art Nouveau and brick buildings. Particularly remarkable are the beautiful facades and the historic train station, which is one of the oldest in Latvia.

3. **Beaches**: Liepāja is known for its long sandy beaches, ideal for sunbathers and water sports enthusiasts. The 'Liepu' beach offers numerous recreational opportunities and a relaxed atmosphere.

Liepāja is a fascinating travel destination that combines history, culture, and nature, making it excellent for a visit – ideal for travelers seeking both relaxation and exploration!

It was not easy for Glücki and me to say goodbye to our castle. After all, we had been the only inhabitants of this historic building all night long. Today, we found an affordable place to stay, and it's 7 euros cheaper. So just 41 instead of the proud 48 at the castle. 😂 But jokes aside, it was truly a special find and a lovely memory of my Baltic tour.

During the night, the temperatures dropped to -2° and there was frost on the benches in the garden. However, the sun was shining, although it was not very warm.

Since most of the kilometers on my planned route had to be traveled on a federal road again, I searched for alternatives for a long time and at least found some in the first part. I wanted to see the rest when the time came.

So I set off, again through beautiful landscapes and mostly on natural roads. I felt very comfortable. But then came the federal road with no alternatives in sight. The road had no shoulder, but oh wonder, practically no traffic. So I took off! I remembered a similar situation in Spain and started to enjoy the relaxed ride here as well. After all, there were still almost 40 kilometers to the planned minimum destination. If possible, I would add another 20 kilometers.

However, that ultimately was not possible; the headwind grew stronger and gustier, which put a lot of strain on the batteries and my energy. But since I hadn't booked any accommodation, I was free to stay here in Kuldiga. After crossing the bridge over the Venta, I could no longer continue driving and had to walk to the hotel, as a large market was taking place today.

Later, when I took a short walk, they were just starting to dismantle. So I focused on the sights of the town. Here, for example, there is a waterfall with a ridiculous height. However, it stands out for its width of 240 meters, making it the widest waterfall in all of Europe. It is said to be particularly impressive after the snowmelt, when large volumes of water cascade down.

https://www.komoot.com/de-DE/tour/2190960206?ref=itd

——

**Español:**

Glücki and I found it not easy to say goodbye to our castle. After all, we were the only inhabitants of this historic building throughout the night. Today we found an economical lodging, and that for 7 euros less. So just 41 instead of the proud 48 in the castle. 😂 But joking aside, it really was a special find and a nice memory of my Baltic tour.

During the night, temperatures dropped to -2° and there was frost on the benches in the garden. However, the sun was shining, though it didn't provide much warmth.

As for my planned route, the majority of the kilometers had to be traveled on a national road, so I searched for alternatives for quite some time and found at least some in the first part. I wanted to see the rest when the time came.

So I set off again through beautiful landscapes and mostly on natural roads. I felt very at ease. But then the national road arrived, and no alternatives in sight. The road had no shoulder, but, oh wonder, there was practically no traffic. So I took off! I remembered a similar situation in Spain and began to enjoy the relaxed ride here too. After all, there were still almost 40 kilometers to the planned minimum destination. If possible, I would add another 20 kilometers.

However, that ultimately turned out to be impossible; the headwind became stronger and gustier, which heavily loaded the batteries and my energy. But since I had not booked any accommodation, I was free to stay here in Kuldiga. After crossing the bridge over the Venta, I could no longer continue and had to walk to the hotel, as a large market was taking place today.

Later, when I took a short walk, they were just starting to dismantle. So I focused on the attractions of the town. Here, for example, there is a waterfall whose height is ridiculous. Yet it stands out for its width of 240 meters, thus becoming the widest waterfall in all of Europe. It is said to be particularly impressive after the snowmelt, when large volumes of water flow down.

——

**English:**

It was not easy for Glücki and me to say goodbye to our castle. After all, we were the only inhabitants of this historic building all night. Today, we found an affordable accommodation, and that for 7 euros less. So just 41 instead of the proud 48 in the castle. 😂 But joking aside, it was truly a special find and a lovely memory of my Baltic tour.

During the night, temperatures dropped to -2° and there was frost on the benches in the garden. However, the sun was shining, although it was not very warm.

As on my planned route the majority of the kilometers had to be driven on a federal road, I searched for alternatives for a long time and at least found some in the first part. I wanted to see the rest when the time came.

So I set off, again through beautiful landscapes and mostly on natural roads. I felt very comfortable. But then the federal road came, and there was no alternative in sight. The road had no shoulder, but, oh wonder, practically no traffic. So I took off! I remembered a similar situation in Spain and began to enjoy the relaxed ride here as well. After all, there were still almost 40 kilometers to the planned minimum destination. If possible, I would add another 20 kilometers.

However, that ultimately was not possible; the headwind became stronger and gustier, which heavily burdened the batteries and my energy. But since I had not booked any accommodation, I was free to stay here in Kuldiga. After crossing the bridge over the Venta, I could no longer continue driving and had to walk to the hotel, as there was a large market taking place today.

Later, when I took a short walk, they were just beginning to dismantle. So I focused on the sights of the town. Here, for example, there is a waterfall with a ridiculous height. However, it stands out for its width of 240 meters, making it the widest waterfall in all of Europe. It is said to be particularly impressive after the snowmelt when large volumes of water cascade down.

If you could choose, what would you prefer? Either sun and headwind or cloudy and still? I can't change it and I always take what comes.

Today started off very sunny, but it was cold (felt like 1°). Later on, some clouds rolled in, mixed with sunny intervals. The warmth of the sun was barely felt, as the wind blew it away. Right outside Riga, there were many bike paths; this side is significantly nicer. And so I quickly headed towards Jürmala, known for its beautiful beaches. I was briefly at the beach, but neither swimming nor sunbathing tempted me. The entire beautiful sandy beach was deserted.

So I continued on, heading more west than south. My chosen accommodation for today forced me to take this route. I stumbled upon this gem by chance yesterday. I couldn't help but book a stay in this castle.

My route took me along a long stretch on a wide gravel road through a nature reserve with stunning and diverse landscapes. Across all those many kilometers, I encountered not a single person. It was the complete opposite of the federal roads. Not even the wind was bothersome. The scenery completely captivated me.

Later, I had to follow a road with little traffic and pass through some small villages. After that, I turned left back into the countryside, and there it was, the castle that awaited me.

Today, I am the only guest; tomorrow it is supposed to be fully booked again. Breakfast is ready in the form of a kitchen and a full refrigerator. There are so many different items that my dinner tonight and for tomorrow are also taken care of.

The lady at the reception is very kind and helpful. I lack nothing. Additionally, I was allowed to visit the museum rooms of the castle for photographs. The hotel rooms are in the annex building, but even that is splendid and enormous.

By the way, I also had to cross some unguarded tracks again today, but not quite as adventurous as yesterday. 😂

---

**Español:**

Si pudieras elegir, ¿qué preferirías? ¿Sol y viento en contra o nublado y sin viento? No puedo cambiarlo y siempre acepto lo que venga.

El día de hoy comenzó muy soleado, pero hacía frío (se sentía como 1°). Más tarde aparecieron algunas nubes, mezcladas con momentos soleados. Apenas se sentía el calor del sol, el viento lo había soplado. Ya desde Riga había muchos carriles para bicicletas, este lado es considerablemente más bonito. Así que llegué rápidamente en dirección a Jürmala, conocida por sus hermosas playas. Fui un momento a la playa, pero ni a mí me atrajo para bañarme o tomar el sol. Toda la hermosa playa de arena estaba vacía.

Así que continué, pero más hacia el oeste que hacia el sur. Mi alojamiento elegido para hoy me obligó a tomar este camino. A este tesoro me topé por casualidad ayer. No pude evitar reservar en este castillo.

Mi ruta me llevó a lo largo de un amplio camino de grava a través de un área protegida con paisajes hermosos y diversos. En todos esos muchos kilómetros no me encontré con ninguna persona. Todo lo contrario a las carreteras nacionales. Ni siquiera el viento fue molesto. La escena me ha cautivado por completo.

Más tarde tuve que seguir una carretera con poco tráfico y atravesar algunos pequeños pueblos. Luego giré a la izquierda de nuevo hacia el campo y ahí estaba, el castillo que me esperaba.

Hoy soy el único huésped, mañana estará completamente reservado de nuevo. El desayuno está listo en forma de una cocina y un refrigerador lleno. Hay tantas cosas diferentes que también está asegurada mi cena de hoy y el día de mañana.

La dama en la recepción es muy amable y servicial. No me falta nada. Además, pude visitar los espacios museales del castillo para fotografiar. Las habitaciones del hotel están en el edificio anexo, pero incluso eso es una maravilla y enorme.

Por cierto, hoy también tuve que cruzar algunas vías sin vigilancia, pero no fue tan aventurero como ayer. 😂

---

**English:**

If you could choose, what would you prefer? Either sun and headwind or cloudy and still? I cannot change it and always take what comes.

Today started very sunny, but it was cold (felt like 1°). Later, some clouds appeared, mixed with sunny intervals. The warmth of the sun was barely felt, the wind blew it away. Already outside of Riga, there were many bike paths; this side is significantly prettier. And so I quickly made my way toward Jürmala, known for its beautiful beaches. I was briefly at the beach, but neither bathing nor sunbathing tempted me. The entire beautiful sandy beach was deserted.

So I continued on, more westward than southward. My accommodation chosen for today forced me to take this route. I stumbled upon this gem by chance yesterday. I couldn’t help but book in this castle.

My route led me along a long stretch on a wide gravel road through a nature reserve with breathtaking and diverse landscapes. Across all those many kilometers, I didn’t encounter a single person. The complete opposite of the federal roads. Not even the wind was bothersome. The scenery captivated me completely.

Later, I had to follow a road with little traffic and pass through some small villages. Then I turned left back into the countryside, and there it was, the castle that awaited me.

Today, I am the only guest; tomorrow it is supposed to be fully booked again. Breakfast is ready in the form of a kitchen and a full refrigerator. There are so many different items that my dinner for tonight and tomorrow are also taken care of.

The lady at the reception is very kind and helpful. I lack nothing. Additionally, I was allowed to visit the museum rooms of the castle to take photographs. The hotel rooms are in the annex building, but even that is a splendor and huge.

By the way, I had to cross some unguarded tracks again today, but it wasn't quite as adventurous as yesterday. 😂

Today, I felt just as uncomfortable on the road with traffic as I did on the federal road. The distances were rarely at least 1 m. Although in the entire EU, there is a minimum distance of 1.50 m up to 50 km/h and even more at higher speeds. Did you know that this regulation also applies in Switzerland?

A special experience was undoubtedly that the official bike path suddenly crossed a railway line. I had already experienced that once on the Camino de Santiago in Spain during my Iberotour.

Actually, one knows that you should never cross the tracks. And then something like that! And on top of that with the heavy e-bike with luggage. How would you have reacted? I listened, heard nothing, and then crossed with my push aid in an estimated 30 seconds. About 5 minutes later, when I had to cross the tracks again on a street just 300 meters away, the train came. 🙏

During the subsequent passage through a forest, there were two fallen trees on the bike path. However, I was not the first as I had already found an alternative path that went around the tree.

Once again along a street, I discovered a car wash where I could measure and refill the tire pressure. And it was also time to wash off some dirt.

When I arrived at the entrance sign of Riga, it took a while longer until I finally reached the center. I had to cross the suburbs, which, like in many big cities, are characterless. Therefore, I didn't take any photos. Even more so in the city, which I visited years ago with the Sursee sailing club. I will visit more places that we already visited back then.

To get to my hotel, I had to cross the large suspension bridge that spans the Daugava. But to get up there, I had to go up 4 flights of stairs to reach the bike path. Despite the push aid, it was a sporting challenge.

Although today was a short trip, I was glad to soon reach the hotel that I had chosen.

https://www.komoot.com/de-DE/tour/2186023068?ref=itd

---

**Español:**

Hoy me he sentido tan incómodo en la calle con tráfico como en la carretera nacional. Las distancias rara vez eran de al menos 1 m. Aunque en toda la UE, hasta 50 km/h, se aplica una distancia mínima de 1,50 m y más aún a mayores velocidades. ¿Sabías que esta regulación también aplica en Suiza?

Una experiencia especial fue sin duda que el carril bici oficial cruzaba repentinamente una línea de tren. Ya lo había vivido una vez en el Camino de Santiago en España durante mi Iberotour.

En realidad, uno sabe que nunca debe cruzar las vías. ¡Y luego algo así! Y además con la pesada bicicleta eléctrica con equipaje. ¿Cómo habrías reaccionado? Escuché, no oí nada, y luego crucé con mi ayuda para empujar en unos 30 segundos estimados. Aproximadamente 5 minutos después, cuando a solo 300 metros de distancia tuve que cruzar nuevamente las vías en una calle, llegó el tren. 🙏

Durante el posterior cruce de un bosque, había dos veces un árbol caído en el camino bici. Pero no fui el primero, porque ya encontré un camino alternativo que rodeaba el árbol.

Nuevamente a lo largo de una calle, descubrí un autolavado donde pude medir y rellenar la presión de los neumáticos. Y también era hora de quitar un poco de suciedad.

Cuando llegué al cartel de entrada de Riga, tardé un rato en llegar finalmente al centro. Tuve que cruzar los suburbios que, como en muchas grandes ciudades, son anónimos. Por eso tampoco tomé fotos. Más aún en la ciudad, que visité hace años con el club de navegación Sursee. Visitaré más lugares que ya conocimos en ese tiempo.

Para llegar a mi hotel, también tenía que cruzar el gran puente colgante que atraviesa el Daugava. Pero para llegar allí, tenía que subir 4 tramos de escaleras para alcanzar el carril bici. A pesar de la ayuda para empujar, fue una empresa deportiva.

Aunque hoy fue un recorrido corto, estaba feliz de llegar pronto al hotel que elegí.

---

**English:**

Today, I felt just as uncomfortable on the road with traffic as I did on the federal highway. The distances were rarely at least 1 m. Although in the whole EU, a minimum distance of 1.50 m applies up to 50 km/h and even more at higher speeds. Did you know that this regulation also applies in Switzerland?

A special experience was surely that the official bike path suddenly crossed a train line. I experienced that once before on the Camino de Santiago in Spain during my Iberotour.

Actually, one knows that you should never cross the tracks. And then something like that! And on top of that with the heavy e-bike with luggage. How would you have reacted? I listened, heard nothing, and then crossed with my push aid in an estimated 30 seconds. About 5 minutes later, when I had to cross the tracks again on a street just 300 meters away, the train came. 🙏

During the subsequent passage through a forest, there were two fallen trees on the bike path. However, I was not the first as I had already found an alternative path that went around the tree.

Once again alongside a street, I discovered a car wash where I could measure and refill the tire pressure. And it was also time to wash away some dirt.

When I arrived at the entrance sign of Riga, it took a while longer until I finally reached the center. I had to cross the suburbs, which, as in many big cities, are characterless. Therefore, I didn't take any photos. All the more so in the city, which I already visited years ago with the Sursee sailing club. I will visit more places that we already visited then.

To get to my hotel, I had to cross the large suspension bridge that spans the Daugava. But to get up there, I had to go up 4 flights of stairs to reach the bike path. Despite the push aid, it was a sporting challenge.

Although today was a short trip, I was glad to reach the hotel I had chosen soon after.

I actually intended to leave this morning at 8 AM, but there's always so much to do. Everything must be ready for departure, and above all, I must not forget anything, so it's always a double check. Since I had charged the batteries in my room, I had to reinstall them and take the bike out of the garage. Then I grabbed the four pieces of luggage: backpack, front bag, and left and right side bags. I carry the backpack on my back, containing the most important items like IDs, wallets, and credit cards. Nothing heavy should be in the backpack since I will be wearing it all day. The front bag holds food and drinks. It mounts in front of the handlebars on the rack. Finally, I hang the two side bags on the left and right of the rack. These are secured with a combination lock so they cannot be stolen. Speaking of theft: I have never had anything stolen on my trips, perhaps because I am careful and always think carefully about where to park my bike when I go shopping.

In Estonia, I only had about 30 kilometers left to cover today, all on a quiet road without stress and traffic.

Did I complain yesterday about the narrow strips for cyclists on the right edge of the road? Today I would have appreciated having some of those. At times, there was only the safety line, and to the right of it were just dirt and mud. While preparing for the trip, I searched last night for all possible detours that would take me off this frightening federal road. This resulted in over 10 kilometers more distance, but it was very worthwhile. I entered beautiful and romantically scenic areas. There wasn’t a soul in sight, only nature and me. Sure, I didn't make good time, but it was comfortable and stress-free.

I also saw the sea several times and beautiful beaches, just like one can only imagine in southern countries.

Unfortunately, it was unavoidable that I had to return to the federal road after every detour to reach the next one. So over the whole day, out of 65 kilometers, I only had to ride about 10 on this highway. But even that was 10 too many.

However, just before the destination, the lanes for cyclists suddenly became pleasantly wide, and I could approach the finish line without stress.

I can surely say that these detours provided me with great insight into the lives of the locals, and additionally, picturesque landscapes in 3D that cannot be captured photographically.

Weather-wise, I had almost everything, including light fog, and in the evening, while I was already dry, it still rained.

Along the way, I also encountered Baron von Münchhausen, who lived here for a long time, and many of his tall tales originated from here.

https://www.komoot.com/de-DE/tour/2184279641?ref=itd

---

**Español:**

En realidad, quería salir esta mañana a las 8, pero siempre hay tanto que hacer. Todo debe estar listo para salir y, sobre todo, no debo olvidar nada, así que siempre hago un doble chequeo. Como había cargado las baterías en la habitación, tuve que volver a instalarlas y sacar la bicicleta del garaje. Luego, recogí las cuatro piezas de equipaje: mochila, bolsa delantera y las bolsas laterales izquierda y derecha. Llevo la mochila en la espalda, en la que están las cosas más importantes, como documentos, billeteras y tarjetas de crédito. No debe haber nada pesado en la mochila, ya que tengo que llevarla todo el día. En la bolsa delantera hay comida y bebida. Se monta delante del manillar en el portaequipajes. Finalmente, cuelgo las dos bolsas a la izquierda y a la derecha del portaequipajes. Estas se aseguran con un candado numérico para que no puedan ser robadas. Hablando de robos, nunca me han robado nada en mis recorridos, quizás también porque soy precavido y siempre pienso bien dónde dejo mi bicicleta cuando voy de compras.

En Estonia, solo me quedaban unos 30 kilómetros por recorrer y todo era en una carretera tranquila, sin estrés ni tráfico.

¿Me quejé ayer de las estrechas franjas para ciclistas al borde derecho de la carretera? Hoy hubiera agradecido tener algunas de esas. A veces solo había la línea de seguridad y, a su derecha, solo suciedad y barro. Al preparar el recorrido, busqué anoche todos los posibles desvíos que me llevaran fuera de esta aterradora carretera nacional. Esto significó unos 10 kilómetros más de recorrido, que realmente valieron la pena. Así llegué a áreas paisajísticas románticas y hermosas. No había un alma cerca, solo naturaleza y yo. Claro que no avancé rápido, pero fue cómodo y sin estrés.

También vi el mar varias veces y hermosas playas como solo uno puede imaginarse en países del sur.

Desafortunadamente, no pude evitar tener que volver a la carretera nacional después de cada desvío para llegar al siguiente. Así que, en un día entero, de 65 kilómetros, solo tuve que recorrer unos 10 en esta autopista. Pero esos también fueron 10 demasiado.

Sin embargo, poco antes de llegar, los carriles para ciclistas fueron de repente agradables y anchos, y pude acercarme a mi destino sin estrés.

Seguro puedo decir que estos desvíos me dieron una gran perspectiva sobre la vida de los locales y, además, paisajes de cuento de hadas en 3D que no se pueden capturar fotográficamente.

Tuve prácticamente de todo en cuanto al clima, incluyendo una ligera niebla, y por la noche, ya que estaba seco, aún llovía.

En el camino, también me encontré con el Barón de Münchhausen, que vivió aquí durante mucho tiempo, y muchas de sus historias de mentiras tienen su origen aquí.

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**English:**

Actually, I intended to leave this morning at 8 AM, but there is always so much to do. Everything must be ready for departure, and above all, I must not forget anything, so it’s always a double check. Since I had charged the batteries in the room, I had to reinstall them and take the bike out of the garage. Then I picked up the four pieces of luggage: backpack, front bag, and left and right side bags. I carry the backpack on my back, which contains the most important items such as IDs, wallets, and credit cards. Nothing heavy should be in the backpack since I will be carrying it all day. The front bag contains food and drinks. It mounts in front of the handlebars on the carrier. Finally, I attach the two bags on the left and right to the carrier. These are secured with a combination lock so that they cannot be stolen. Speaking of stealing, I have never had anything stolen on my trips, perhaps because I am cautious and always think carefully about where to park my bike when I go shopping.

In Estonia, I only had about 30 kilometers left to cover today, all on a quiet road without stress and traffic.

Did I complain yesterday about the narrow strips for cyclists at the right edge of the road? Today I would have been grateful for such strips. At times, there was only the safety line, and to its right was only dirt and mud. While preparing for the trip, I looked last night for all possible detours that would take me off this frightening federal road. This resulted in over 10 kilometers more travel distance, but it was very worthwhile. I entered beautiful and romantic scenic areas. There wasn’t a soul in sight, only nature and me. Of course, I didn’t make good speed, but it was comfortable and stress-free.

I also saw the sea several times and beautiful beaches, just like one can imagine only in southern countries.

Unfortunately, it was unavoidable that I had to return to the federal road after every detour to reach the next one. So over the whole day, out of 65 kilometers, I had to ride about 10 on this highway. But that was still 10 too many.

However, just before my destination, the lanes for cyclists were suddenly pleasantly wide, and I could approach the finish line without stress.

I can confidently say that these detours have given me great insight into the lives of the locals and also fairytale landscapes in 3D that cannot be captured photographically.

As for the weather, I had almost everything, including light fog, and in the evening, while I was already dry, it was still raining.

On the way, I also encountered Baron von Münchhausen, who lived here for a long time, and many of his tall tales have their origins here.

Today we had to say goodbye to Latvia. But before that, we still had the visit of a Soviet-era bunker ahead of us.

During the Soviet occupation of Latvia in the Cold War, the Soviets built a rehabilitation center in Lītagne. The construction took 10 years because, in secret, a bunker for commanding officers was constructed underneath. Until 1992, the bunker was always occupied by 20 soldiers. Then it was abandoned. We were able to visit the various areas and rooms and had a great tour. At the end, there were Latvian dumplings in the original canteen for the whole group. Super interesting experience.

Afterward, we hiked a short round in the Gauja National Park. Time and again, we had a great view of the Gauja River. The definition of hiking trails in Latvia is, however, significantly closer to nature than it is for us. At times, there wasn't even a beaten path to be recognized. But the two hours were a nice, adventurous change.

Then we finally left Latvia. Our border crossing was the city of Valka. The city is exactly on the border and belongs half to Latvia and half to Estonia. We parked in Latvia and shopped in Estonia. Right on the border, there is also a swing, so with every swing you switch countries.

Latvia was even less populated than Lithuania. It is actually never crowded, not even in the capital. And it feels like half the country is under construction. Especially the roads around Riga. The manufacturer of the barriers has struck gold. We've never seen so many at once.

Negatively, the drivers stood out to us. In contrast to Lithuania, there are almost only speeders and many tailgaters here. In fact, there was a car behind us for a maximum of a few minutes. As soon as there was an opportunity to overtake... or even when it really wasn't possible... The listed speed limits only apply to foreigners. Not a single Latvian vehicle adhered to them.

In contrast to Lithuania, entry is required in the large churches. And €12 per person adds up.

Today we have chosen Jūrmala as our destination. A kilometer-long sandy beach with super fine sand. With very summery temperatures just under 30 degrees, we were looking for some cooling off. And the Baltic Sea is just great for that. You get cooled down quite quickly (19 degrees).

However, before you are really in the water, you have to walk several hundred meters. The seabed slopes down very gently. For minutes, it’s not really swimming but rather wading.

A stop at the airport, a stop at the outlet, and then a stroll through Riga in the evening. So today was very relaxing and tomorrow the adventure continues.

Today, the old town of Riga was on our agenda. All the interesting points are located in a relatively small space and are easily accessible on foot.

With perfect weather, we found the big and small, the well-known and the lesser-known sights. Since we didn't have a specific route and let ourselves be guided more freely, we often stumbled upon particularly beautiful places. The number of photos would be overwhelming here. Therefore, just a small selection.

In the afternoon, our feet needed a little break which we enjoyed on a boat ride on the canal and the Daugava. Very calming and once again very interesting.

To conclude a very walk-friendly day, despite the boat ride, we looked for a restaurant with typical Latvian cuisine. We were successful and it was super delicious. However, vegetarians have a hard time in Latvia. The dishes are very tasty but predominantly hearty and meat-heavy. Not even at the golden M do they have veggie burgers.

And the Latvians are probably on average taller than us. The little restroom is significantly higher 😂

At the market I was able to find everything I needed for my trip to Jūrmala. Jūrmala is about 40 minutes by train from Riga and is the seaside resort par excellence. I suspect that because of the former Soviet occupation, I mainly met Russian-speaking people who have since settled here. Equipped with fresh food, a towel and swimwear, I worked on my tan, enjoyed the sea from outside and inside and was able to catch up on some sleep in the quiet surroundings 😴 I particularly liked the fact that it was not at all crowded. In summer the region will be much more visited.

On my last evening in Riga I had pizza with Magnus and here Riga knew how to surprise us again. The drink garnished with candy floss and the pizza with goat cheese and pistachios was simply a dream 🤩

Tomorrow I'll be taking the bus to Tallinn in Estonia. I'm excited to see what happens there. The first plans are already underway 😊 I can say about Riga that it's a great city that conveys a relaxed attitude to life, similar to Vilnius. In comparison, however, there's a lot more going on here - the city is really pulsating, especially in the evenings. And as the saying goes, Riga is definitely worth more visits 🤗

I planned a nice route for myself, walking through the parks near the old town. Basteiberg and Kronvalda Park are incredibly beautiful and a good place to recharge your batteries and make travel plans for Tallinn. Afterwards I looked at the Art Nouveau district, which I really liked. There is supposed to be a similar architectural style in Vienna. Is that true? We should check it out 😉 Away from the city center I walked through the "more normal" streets back to the hostel. Small parallel to Vilnius: first take a nap 😴

For dinner I went back to the historic old town. I tried to find a nice restaurant, but Ala Pagrabs, where we started yesterday, is just so Latvian and so beautiful that it was the only logical choice. In my opinion, a must-see for everyone who visits Riga 🇱🇻

I was told that the sidewalks were still down for a long time on Thursday, just like yesterday. As far as nightlife goes, it doesn't stop on any day of the week 😄 But I can imagine that Riga can get extremely busy at the weekend, when larger crowds of tourists and people come to the city to party.

After a good round of "The Mind" with a few people in the hostel, we went to bed a little earlier. Continue to recharge the batteries and tomorrow we're going to the beach 🏖🌞

In Riga, I now feel like I've arrived in a real hostel for the first time. There are lots of people here, people talk to each other and there are activities to do together. My plan to watch the ice hockey game 🇩🇪 - 🇱🇻 in a bar got a cool update. Here, I had already planned to go to the public viewing with several people 😄 Four Germans and an American in the middle of a Latvian crowd and the game ended 8:1 for Germany. Only a few people had much to celebrate - but the atmosphere was still great. The people here were very friendly as always and their support for their country is set in stone.

In my hostel, Cinnamon Sally Backpackers, there are regulars who keep coming back. There are also established traditions. One of them takes place on Wednesday evenings. Then we go to a restaurant with a huge vaulted cellar for Latvian folk dancing and then to a nearby club for karaoke. I was able to take part in all of this and had a great evening! I could guess the Latvian folk dancing from the number of people on the dance floor. But there were good conversations, delicious drinks 🍻 and at the karaoke I belted out Vida la Vida by Coldplay more or less badly 🎤

As in Vilnius, there is plenty to report about the morning after here too 😄 Otherwise, I have a bed in a 6-bed room and the occupancy will change almost daily. Everyone from over 20 to over 50 is represented in my room and I am excited to hear what stories the individual people here have to tell. Unfortunately, it is not exactly quiet at night 💤, but that is just part of it 🤷‍♂️

Even though I'm speeding through the Baltic countries at high speed, they are definitely worth a longer visit with a great relaxing effect.

My first long stop in Latvia is in Valmiera (German: 'Wolmar'), a town that can look back on a settlement history that goes back over 9,000 years. Unfortunately, due to the destruction caused by many wars, there is no longer much visible of the historic city center.

I still have a nice break, eat a good lunch, climb the church tower and walk through the park next to the old castle complex. The relaxation gained in this way is used up when driving through the city of Riga. But the destination of Jŭrmala, a Baltic Sea seaside resort that doesn't need to hide, is tempting. A tax is collected per vehicle per day at the Jŭrmala city gates. The town itself consists mainly of beach villas and impresses with its long sandy beach. I spend the evening here, enjoy the gentle waves and the sunset and even find a disco 💃

In the morning we continue, Lithuania is calling. In general, you can often find signs in the Baltic countries that point to EU-financed infrastructure projects. However, I also often come across gravel forest paths and roads. It drives well, just a little dusty. In the Latvia-Lithuania border area I still find a ruin of the Protestant church community (Rubas pagasts), which has been in ruins for around 60 years.

Then I have a blood alcohol test for the first time ever, am found to be 'negative' and can continue traveling. I find a good restaurant near the town of Kuliai and get a previously unknown cold fish soup, very delicate!

A short time later I am just a few meters away from the ferry to the Curonian Spit, pay the ticket (6.50 euros for a return journey) and off we go. The 3 ships in use are sailing today on Sunday without a timetable and without stopping. When I arrive on the spit I see why. It's return traffic and the line of cars is still about 5 km long at around 5 p.m. Good thing I want to go the other way. On Lithuanian territory, the Curonian Spit is approximately 50 km long and the road leads through typical dune landscape. I don't stay in the hostel for long. Hildegard gets greased and then I set off to explore Nida and the surrounding area.

The headland has it all.

Mo. 14.08.2023

Shortly after midnight we arrived in Tallinn and spent the night at the harbour. After breakfast we left on foot to visit the old town. As we always do, we googled the rough data about the country. Estonia is a bit bigger than Switzerland, but actually has only 1.3 million inhabitants. The capital city of Tallinn is home to around 430,000 of them. We spent the day strolling up and down the streets, looking at the most popular buildings and monuments, eating ice cream. We also walked out to the new harbour where the big cruise ships would arrive.

Early in the evening we decided that we had seen the most important things in the city and wanted to move on. Attentive readers of this blog may have noticed by now that we are not necessarily the big city people. To get out of the city, we passed the train station, and this neighbourhood seemed to be pretty lively, with lots of colorful restaurants, bars and cultural centres. I think it would have been a great place to stay. So, if any of you travel there, let us know what it was like.

After an hour's drive, we arrived at a place called Padise and spent the night in a parking lot for a hiking trail. By the way, in the Baltic States, it is also allowed to camp freely, as long as you follow the most common rules.

Tue 15.08.2023

We quickly realised that Estonia is not a densely populated country, because here too we were often in the woods. But Estonia has definitely more agriculture, so we had a slightly more varied view of the landscape.

Our first stop this day was Keibu Beach. The weather was sensational and it was a pleasure to walk barefoot on this sandy beach. But there was more than one catch: the sea was full of little jellyfish. And we're not exaggerating when we say 'full'. Google said that this kind of jellyfish doesn't burn, and there were some people in the water, but we didn't bring our bathing gear anyway. The other drawback were the ants. The beach was littered with these creatures, and you couldn't stand for a minute without them crawling up your leg.

For lunch we went to the next small place called Nova. The local restaurant offered three lunch menus and for a whopping 9 euros (!) total we ate a delicious, well portioned lunch.

Because the country was so small, we drove another hour to Haapsalu, washed the van from top to bottom and spent the rest of the day at the campsite Pikseken.

Wed 16.08.2023

In the morning we explored the small town of Haapsalu with its bishop's castle from the 13th century. The west of Estonia is said to be very reminiscent of Sweden, since it belonged to it for a long time. Estonia has many pretty colourful wooden houses, often strung together in the village. During lunch we decided to skip the islands in the west and continue to the south. After all, we were already the third day in Estonia and have only 1.5 weeks left. “Only”… it was not long ago, we had 1.5 months left, or even three months. How fast time passes.

So, we drove 1.5 hours south, passed beautiful villages with well-kept gardens and churches made of red bricks and finally landed in Soomaa National Park. There we did a small walk through the swamps. Here there were mainly flies, bumblebees and dragonflies. It was interesting to see clearly the boundary between forest and bog.

When it was time for dinner we went to the city of Pärnu for dinner and a digestive walk. But we spent the night just outside the city right on the beach.

Thu 17.08.2023

Now it was time for Latvia. The border was only half an hour's drive away from our sleeping place and we drove over it unnoticed. Another hour's drive later we arrived at the beach of Saulkrasti. A huge beautiful beach, with an 18-metre-high overgrown dune with a 4-kilometre-long wooden board path. It was beautiful to walk here, up on the trail and barefoot right in the sea on the soft sand. The water was rather cold and the wind was also strong.

After we had enough of dabbling our feet and had lunch, we drove on to the capital Riga. From our point of view Latvia was not much different from Estonia. But, in every case very beautiful. A few more facts for you: With 64,594 square kilometres, Latvia is much bigger than its northern neighbour, but it has only 1.8 million inhabitants. The country has four national parks and over 700 protected nature areas, and is home to countless wild animals, even the brown bear is slowly returning.

Riga has 600,000 inhabitants, making it the largest city in the Baltic region. The city is famous for its Art Nouveau buildings (but don't ask us about them, we don't know anything about this) and its well-preserved Old Town, which we liked very much. What we noticed were the few tourists. From the other cities and especially from home we know something completely different, but it was so pleasant to walk around Riga without large groups of tourists. Apropos few tourists: you remember our stay at the campsite Koli Freetime in Finland? When we asked the guy at the reception what time the check-out is, he said not to worry about that, as the high season is already over. And that was at the beginning of August. Hopefully Sarah’s parents in Lauterbrunnen won’t faint after reading this.

We stayed in Riga until sunset, but decided to leave the city for the night. Not because we felt insecure, but because it's easier and quieter.

Fri 18.08.2023

Ten minutes from our sleeping place was a gas station where we could use the shower for 3 Euros. On our long journey we have already used many public showers and it may surprise you, but we have never come across anything disgusting or anything like that, we always had reasonably clean showers with reasonably warm water. The only cold shower so far (apart from the saunas) we had at the Metal Festival in Finland and believe us, that one was a blessing.

Anyway, we said goodbye to Latvia after 24 hours. There would definitely be a lot to see here too, but as we already mentioned, time was starting to rush.

The border with Lithuania is the river Nemunelis and we passed it without even realizing it. Even the 'Republic of Lithuania' board was hidden behind bushes. After a total of 2 hours’ drive we stopped at a petrol station for an ice cream and a briefing on the situation. It was already 2 p.m. and it would take another two hours to get to the capital Vilnius. And visiting a city at 4 p.m. at over 30 degrees is not so much fun. So, we decided to look for a spot by a lake and found it in the Labanoro Regional Park. On Google Maps and also on the (very bumpy) road we saw camping signs and followed them. Over a forest path with big tree roots we finally got to a great place in the forest right by the lake. There were different open shelters with barbecue areas, tables and benches and probably also a dry toilet. And it was all for free. There was a lot going on for a Friday night, families with kids camping here. The atmosphere was really very peaceful and relaxed, except for a couple opposite us. The wife had some kind of problem, don't ask us, but what she was screaming around and scolding with her husband and listening to some loud music. That was the only negative point of the whole evening. The man came over to ask us something, but we didn't even get along with our feet and hands. Until well after midnight, the woman was still roaring loudly in the area, despite the fact that all the other visitors were already asleep. We thought about saying something, but we didn't want trouble with people if you couldn't understand each other's words. Well, otherwise it was really great here!

Sat 19.08.2023

During the time of the midnight sun in the far north we shifted our sleep rhythm into the night by a few hours. We decided to get back into a more or less 'Swiss' rhythm in the two weeks after Finland, so we actually got up at 08:30 a.m. which was quite early for us. By the way, the night was very warm and we would have slept with the side door open for the first time on the trip. But because the shrill lady from next door chased everyone to hell, we closed the door again at one o'clock in the morning.

Now we drove the 1.5 hours to Vilnius. Here are the mandatory data: With 65,300 km2 and 2.7 million inhabitants, Lithuania is the largest state in the Baltic region. And for what we have seen so far, it is also the most beautiful for us. Lithuania is flatter than the sea, but it has a lot of agriculture and, similar to its Baltic friends, many beautiful villages with well-kept farms. We found a free parking space near the railway station (let this sink in: Free parking in the city centre of a capital city…). Vilnius was almost empty compared to the other capitals. And it was Saturday after all. Perhaps it was because it was very warm. Vilnius is a Roman Catholic city, as one might notice from the more than 50 (!) churches in the city. It is considered the Rome of the East. It is also one of the oldest university cities in Europe. It has almost 570,000 inhabitants.

By the way, we also tried the local cuisine here. With 'Cepelinai' we were served potato dumplings filled with minced meat topped with bacon and sour cream. We also tried the homemade drink 'Kvass', which is somehow made with bread and somewhat reminiscent of honey wine (Met). This was in the restaurant 'Berneliu Uzeiga', the menu is full of traditional meals.

As usual for us, we left the city behind in the late afternoon and headed towards Poland.

In the parking lot in Vilnius Lukas noticed that the brake line at the rear right must have leaked. We decided to drive a little and buy brake fluid at a petrol station. But since he noticed the leak while driving, we only went as far as a town called Marijampole, ate there very delicious sushi and then Lukas wanted to fix the brake line in the parking lot. However, it's not really possible on the ground with only half the right tools and he was already full of dirt and brake fluid within minutes. But what should we have done on a Saturday night at 9 p.m.? Carrying on with this problem was definitely not a smart idea. Suddenly, a man drove by us in his car and asked what the problem was and offered his garage with a lift. Luke didn't think twice and accepted the offer. Less than five minutes later, we were standing in the garage with the man named Paul. For 45 minutes, the two of them worked on the brake line until it was patched up. At first Paul didn't want to accept payment, but we couldn't let it be on us either. What man offers a garage to strangers on a Saturday night, helps to fix the problem and doesn't even want anything in return… we are forever grateful to Paul.

So, when it was already dark, we could drive easy minded for the last half hour to the Polish border. After a short paper check from the border guards, we drove to the border parking lot and were able to take a free hot shower at 10:30 pm. Not bad, right? Welcome to Poland!

Far, far away, behind the word mountains, far from the countries Vokalia and Consonantia, live the blind texts. Isolated, they live in Lettera City on the coast of Semantics, a large language ocean. A small stream called Duden flows through their place and supplies them with the necessary regelialia. It is a paradisiacal country, where roasted sentence parts fly into your mouth. Not even the all-powerful punctuation has control over the blind texts – it is an almost unorthographic life. But one day, a small line of blind text, named Lorem Ipsum, decided to go out into the vast grammar. The Big Oxmox advised against it, because there were vicious commas, wild question marks and cunning semicolons, but the blind little text did not let itself be deterred. It packed its seven versalia, thrust itself into its belt and set off. When it had climbed the first hills of the Italic Mountains, it cast a last glance back at the skyline of its hometown Lettera City, the headline of Alphaville and the subline of its own street, Zeilengasse. A rhetorical question ran down its cheek with a hint of melancholy, then it continued its way. Along the way, it met a Copy. The Copy warned the blind little text, that where it came from it would be...

A lovely resort. Time to read and rest from the previous travel itinerary. If you're too lazy to take out warm clothes from the bottom-most box, you'll have to freeze. It's chilly and drizzling. The hotel room has a generously covered terrace with a view of the lake. The Baltic Sea is a few minutes' walk away. In the wooded dunes, you can still see the remains of former facilities from the USSR; paved paths and accommodations. Tomorrow we're heading to the first destination: Tallinn in Estonia and meeting up with the fellow travelers.

The next morning, we first went to the Old Town to explore the city on our own. We visited the old market halls on the outskirts of the Old Town, which were formerly Nazi hangars that were converted for this purpose. The 4 halls have everything: fish, meat, clothing, and other food. But the fish hall was enough for me.

From there, we walked along the outer canal of the city towards the beautiful cathedral, where I wanted to fly my drone for the first time. And I love my girlfriend, but sometimes she is too cautious. A man stood next to us and apparently watched me for several minutes while talking on the phone. For the woman, the situation was clear: the FBI is about to come and arrest me.

But the story also includes the fact that I flew near the Ministry of Defense, which is prohibited. But it went well 🥶

In the evening, we went to a simple canteen to eat something and then went to bed, as the weather was really nasty and we hoped for improvement the next morning.

The next day, unfortunately, it was not better, but we wanted to make the most of the day. Therefore, we booked 2 free walking tours for the day. One in the morning in the Old Town and one in the afternoon through the suburbs, the outskirts of the city. Our guide on both tours was Kaszper, who explained everything wonderfully with a good dose of humor.

He showed us that most of the buildings marked as historical were simple replicas, as they were destroyed during World War II. Riga has been destroyed in the past by EVERYONE who passed by. Napoleon, Hitler, Tsars, and the Soviets were just some of the occupiers.

Riga's ghettos became the home of millions of Jews during World War II, most of whom were murdered by the SS in concentration camps or the surrounding forests.

These facts quickly diminish the city's initial charm, as not everything is as historical as it seems.

In the afternoon, our path led us to the legendary suburbs, which were very historic and under the radar. Once frowned upon as a lawless zone, it is being increasingly gentrified. The districts were built in the late 18th century, but entirely out of wood. This way, if an invader attacked the city, everything could be quickly set on fire, providing a free combat zone and avoiding house-to-house fighting.

Random fact: The hammer and sickle, the symbol of the Soviets, are also banned in Lithuania, like the swastika of Nazi regime. These symbols are depicted on the building of science, similar to those in Warsaw and Moscow, a gift from Stalin, in the only place in the city.

We liked this tour much better, and our guide recommended that we eat in his neighborhood. So, after a 1-hour walk, we arrived at the Food Hall. Mega cool concept, there were several stands with delicacies from different countries. We started with a pizza, then had Ukrainian borscht from refugees, and finally, a Georgian style Pide. We ended the evening with a Riga Coffee. It was strong!

The next morning, our 3-hour bus ride took us to the last stop in the Baltic States: Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania!

So today Riga was visited so that the fat Bosamo has to move instead of the delicate Berta.

A lot going on here and the city also exudes a certain rancid charm, because if you bypass the superficial, thorough Hanseatic tourist polish just a little, then the whole thing looks quite different and the defining styles of this eventful history of the region become very clear.

So the unsavory traveler wandered around a bit, dutifully took a few pictures for his highly intelligent, naturally always embraced and deeply loved reading community, and then returned to the noble steed, where a red thank-you letter from the city of Riga was just attached with a fundraising appeal for 53 eurolettians.

Nice of you and the criminal Gaijin has one more country on his clean slate that will make a little black mark, and at the end of this journey the reading circles, who are sincerely admired by BOSAMO, can hold a Rorschach test and let a seance take place to ask the evil spirits of this journey how not to do it, so that the well-informed and knowledgeable reading community can come through their own wonderful journey safely and protected.

Ah yes, why should the ignorant also become knowledgeable, it's much more exciting this way, but occasionally also a bit more expensive!

It's just much easier to live stupidly!

P.s .: it's certainly exciting to inform oneself about my mistakes, but it will be expensive to tell me about them!

So, I enjoyed the last two full vacation days to the fullest. Yesterday morning I set off in Tūja, with an unclear destination. I only knew the route, but not how far it would take me. So, I soon crossed Riga, completing the first circle of the great Eight that I am doing in the Baltic States.

Afterwards, I went along the coast up to Cape Kolka. The whole peninsula was a restricted area during Soviet times. Even as a Latvian, you could only enter with an invitation from a local resident and a pass. The coast was heavily guarded and wired with barbed wire, and so that no one could flee from the paradise of the workers, the Soviets also confiscated and destroyed the fishing grounds. They simultaneously destroyed the livelihood of the Curonian fishermen and the area became desolate as people moved away. Along this coast, there are many opportunities to take a swim break or even stay overnight. But I decided to continue my journey.

Cape Kolka, the meeting point of two seas (Baltic Sea and Gulf of Riga) is beautiful and a small tourist hotspot. There is a brand new tourist information center in the village with friendly staff. I continue my journey a little further and end up in Mikeltornis, at Kempings Miķeļbāka (Michel Tower). Miķeļtornis is one of the twelve Livonian fishing villages in North Kurzeme. The Livonians formed a small community here in the 1930s with their own language, way of life, and tradition. Martin, the owner, introduces me and I find a place that promises me morning shade. A short detour to the beach rounds off the day. Luckily, after three weeks, I meet Swiss people again. Jeannette and Dave are on their way back from Scandinavia. But their journey will last several months, so they can still travel through Lithuania and Poland towards Switzerland in peace. We exchange our experiences over a cool beer.

Today, I decided not to continue driving, to have a proper vacation once again, and then tomorrow, complete the three hundred kilometers to Klaipeda. The roads are good and the ferry doesn't leave until 10 p.m. So, no reason to rush.

And so, I enjoy everything once again that made up these holidays: a cozy breakfast with kefir, fruits, and coffee, reading and dreaming in the Baltic sun, then an adventurous bike tour in breathtaking scenery, exploring Soviet secrets (the grounds of a former listening station), and finally, a swim in the Baltic Sea on a phenomenal, deserted beach. So, I filled up the reservoirs of my soul once again for long winter evenings. Speaking of evenings: I look forward to the first evening with a starry sky on my home terrace. After four weeks of "white nights," that will surely be a beautiful experience too!