This is Gulnar, the head of the facility. The birth of a disabled grandchild motivated her to establish the center. Together with her daughter-in-law and son, they now run the family business, which was financed through bank loans. Parents bring their children based on recommendations from doctors and acquaintances, sometimes for the whole day, sometimes just for a few hours. The reason: the visit of the children must be paid for by the parents. Accordingly, their expectations are quite high, as the investment must bring about positive changes in the children. Gulnar is very diligent in ensuring that I lack for nothing.

Bagdat, 24, is my interpreter here. He is a freelance English teacher, meaning he offers online courses and gets paid for them. Bagdat has learned English through self-study and also with the help of an online course from a teacher in Birmingham. His pronunciation is distinctly British. I had the impression he had grown up in the UK, but he has never been there. His background includes having been arrested and mistreated by the police for participating in a demonstration against the former president.

He is very interested in German history and loves German cars.

The following 4 pictures show a treadmill, stepper, and bicycle. Which child at what age can possibly be treated with these? *clears throat again*

On a personal note: the internet connection in my apartment is a disaster. That's why I'm sitting at the facility after work writing this report. It may happen that I won't be able to report every day. Patience!

After a long flight, with a layover in Astana, I landed in Turkestan, the capital of Turkestan. There, I was warmly welcomed by Gulnar, the head of the center, and her son Buddy.

After a 30-kilometer drive, we reached the small town of Kentau. Kentau was founded in 1955 due to the planned extraction of existing mineral resources. The collapse of the economy after the end of the Soviet Union led to the emigration of residents. Today, a transformer factory is the largest employer in the city with a population of 68,000. On the way, we passed by a hermetically sealed area operated by the Chinese. No one can say what they are building there . . .

In Kentau, we had a sumptuous meal in a charming restaurant featuring various kebabs (chicken, lamb, beef). I come from a region where kebabs are a standard dish. Delicious!

You can see it already at the border of Kazakhstan: how people from different parts of the world have moved and met here. You see the Turkic peoples, you see Persia, you see Arabia, you see Genghis Khan, you see the Golden Horde, you see the Soviet Union, you see the Silk Road, you see Asia for the first time in a real way.

The greeting is in Cyrillic script, in words that sound Turkish. The religion has been Islam since the 8th century. Everywhere you see the nomadic past, even though the nomadic lifestyle was banned in the Soviet Union, leading to half the country starving. But the yurts are still there, the semi-wild horses everywhere on the steppe, horse meat, fermented mare's milk. And an incredible kindness and hospitality.

2500 kilometers of steppe that we cross redefine the expression of endless emptiness. At first glance, it seems so, but on closer inspection, the steppe offers plenty of variety: camels, horses, shepherds on motorcycles, Saiga antelopes, the little fox that became very affectionate, steppe grasses and flowers in all shades, endless power lines, and the road, straight as a string.

The Caspian Sea has disappeared, the Aral Sea is slowly returning (we only saw the dried-up port). And then another piece of Russia, which we can only see from a distance because we no longer have a Russian visa: the cosmodrome in Baikonur, the place from which Yuri Gagarin flew into space as the first human. The cosmodrome with the launch pads can only be seen on the horizon. But we could play on rocket parts.

In Turkestan, we meet a man and his architecture who was very important for Central Asia and created an empire from here through Afghanistan and Persia to Syria: Timur the Lame or Tamerlane.

At the end of my time in Kazakhstan, here are a few facts and impressions about the country:

• Kazakhstan is enormous, ranking as the ninth largest country in the world by area and nearly as large as Argentina. This vast expanse presents a significant challenge in establishing a comprehensive infrastructure (freshwater supply, sewage, internet, etc.). This leads to a pronounced urban-rural divide. Additionally, due to this size, I have really only seen a small fraction of the country during my three weeks here.
• Even though Kazakhstan belongs to a completely different region in my mind, it borders China to the east. In the region around Almaty, Chinese influences are distinctly felt – for instance, in the traditional cuisine, car brands, and the number of Mandarin-speaking people. South Korean influences can also be observed. At the same time, the traces of time from the Russian Empire and the Soviet Union are unmistakable: many signs are in Russian, almost all the people we encountered spoke at least some Russian, and after Islam, the Russian Orthodox Church is the second-largest religious community. Almaty was systematically expanded during the Soviet era, and the architecture is heavily influenced by concrete panel systems. Nevertheless, it would be too simplistic to view Kazakhstan solely as a “former Soviet state” or merely an extension of Russia. Since gaining independence in 1991, a new national self-awareness has been developing: many people consciously prefer to speak Kazakh, the once-banned nomadic culture is experiencing renewed appreciation, and the cultural heritage, including memories of the time as part of the Mongol Empire, is being actively preserved.
• The Kazakh flag has become my favorite flag. Against a bright blue background symbolizing the vast sky of the steppe and thus freedom, shines a golden sun with a steppe eagle. The eagle represents the nomadic past and the time of the Mongol Empire under Genghis Khan. Along the left edge runs an ornamental band of intertwined plant vines and animal horns, a nod to traditional folk art. Looking at this flag makes me happy every time :)
• Kazakh is a Turkic language. Although it is currently written in a special version of the Cyrillic alphabet, it is more closely related to Turkish or Uzbek than to Russian.
• Since few Kazakhs speak English, I sometimes found it difficult to make contact. However, most people I encountered were very warm and helpful, and I had no unpleasant encounters. A particularly nice moment was a conversation with a group of students on the bus. They knew a few sentences in English and were eager to try them out with us. On the same day, two students invited us to a cheerful round of Uno in a mountain hut. These encounters showed me that people are very open and friendly once a common language is found.
• The landscape of Kazakhstan is incredibly diverse: everything from desert to steppe, grassland, forests, and high mountains is represented. However, hiking seems to be less common here than in Germany. Although nature truly invites exploration everywhere, there are only a few marked trails. It seems more typical to spend a day outdoors with a leisurely picnic, loud music, and a nap in the shade.
• I did not perceive a major backpacker culture in Almaty. Many travelers are using rental cars or joining guided tours. Traveling across the country by public transport is nearly impossible. A quote from my travel guide summarizes it well: “One can hardly expect anything good from this wild land; however, with a sufficient supply of patience and persistence, anything can be overcome, and the harder the obstacles become, the more pleasant the victory will be.” Although this sentence comes from a traveler in the 19th century, I still found it relatable. Because the experiences I had here, especially in the breathtaking nature, were extraordinarily beautiful, and the effort of the long journey and the planning were definitely worth it!

During my time in Kazakhstan, I returned to Almaty again and again. It wasn't entirely by choice, as without a car it's difficult to stay away from the city for long. However, since it's quite pleasant to be there, I can't complain.

My time in the city was lovely but also challenging. I found it hard to settle in: The language barrier was very noticeable, I missed a vibrant hostel culture, and struggled a bit with the anonymity of city life. Almaty is not only the largest city in Kazakhstan but also was the capital for a long time. It is considered the most international and affluent city in Central Asia, and you can really feel that. The cityscape includes glass skyscrapers that look like they were constructed in just a few weeks, elegantly dressed city dwellers in expensive outfits, sports cars, countless panel buildings, an endless stream of traffic, small street vendors, numerous construction sites, and bustling bazaars. To the south, the foothills of the Tien Shan mountains frame the city (if the smog allows for a clear view), while to the north, the vast expanse of the steppe opens up.

Over time, I came to appreciate Almaty mainly for its green spaces and cafés. I tried the local cuisine, visited the few sights of the city, and spent many hours in eateries and parks.

The Ile-Alatau is the foothill of the Tien Shan, which borders Almaty. Over two days, we crossed a pass there to get from one valley to the next. The hike was quite demanding, not only due to our developing fitness level but also because the trails were often poorly maintained. We got lost several times, had to cross streams, and climb steep slopes up or down. Admittedly, we just picked a route on the map without checking beforehand if it was actually passable :D

However, the effort was absolutely worth it. After a long ascent on the first day, we set up our tent in the middle of nowhere among spruces by an icy mountain stream. The next day, we ascended to the pass at 3200 m and from there descended through a beautiful valley. Along the way, we encountered a few friendly people, enjoyed the view of Almaty and the Big Almaty Lake, and by the end, we were completely exhausted.

Back in the city, we celebrated our last evening in Almaty with a fancy dinner. Now, as I write this text, we are already on the bus to Bishkek and have about 30 km left to the border...

The tour itself was long, a bit chaotic, and funny. We started at 6 AM and returned around 10 PM. Along the way, there were three major stops:

1) Black Canyon

Just a brief stop, but all the more impressive. Dark, rugged rocks rise up, and an emerald-green river winds through. It looks as if someone has carved a deep groove into the otherwise gently rolling landscape with a knife.

2) Kaindy Lake

This lake was the highlight for me. It formed about 100 years ago after an earthquake dammed up a small valley. The water flooded a spruce forest at that time, and to this day, the bare, preserved trunks rise like ghostly poles from the lake. Underwater, you can even still see the dead branches diverging from the trunks of the trees. The lake is surrounded by tall rocks and lies completely still. It appears mystical, beautiful, and a little eerie at the same time.

The journey there was also an experience: twelve people in a rickety minibus rattling over bumpy tracks. I was honestly surprised that the body of the vehicle didn't fall apart or at least that a tire didn't burst. However, I genuinely enjoyed the bumpiness. It felt a bit like a ride at a fair.

3) Kolsai Lake

The Kolsai Lake strongly resembles a classic Swiss mountain lake: turquoise blue, surrounded by wooded slopes, and even pedal boats are available there. To gain some distance from the rather numerous tourists by Kazakh standards, Philipp and I walked completely around the lake. The path took us along the shore, over a horse trodden path, and through a small stream.

I am very glad we took this tour, even though it was tiring. A quirky detail: Our tour guides entertained the group with small games along the way (e.g., guessing movie quotes). I wouldn't have needed that, but it was amusing to watch the others doing it :)

After a few cookies and a canned coffee for breakfast, we set out early on the second day towards the 'Singing Dune.' In the midst of the stony steppe of the national park rises a gigantic sand dune. How it got there remains a mystery. It has been named because under certain weather conditions, you can hear the sand 'singing.' The sound occurs when different layers of sand shift against each other. For a brief moment, I actually heard a howling sound on the ridge of the dune. Whether that was the famous singing remains unclear...

We spent most of the day again on the adventurous washboard paths of the national park, taking in the stunning landscape. In the early afternoon, we finally began our return journey to Almaty, with plenty of sand in our shoes and beautiful memories in our luggage. 

The Altyn Emel National Park is located about 300 km northeast of Almaty. Even before the trip, I decided to go there – a photo of the landscape immediately captivated me. So Philipp and I rented a car and drove five hours to the park.

On the way, we had a bizarre encounter with the police: Apparently, our car lacked insurance, and Philipp had to get out. After a brief conversation by the roadside, a policeman took him to the patrol car and made him blow into a tube. The device actually showed 0.2 permille, even though the only alcohol we had consumed was a beer four days before. Although Philipp doesn't handle alcohol well, that little shouldn't affect him! After Philipp insisted he hadn’t drunk anything, the officer finally relented and let him go without imposing a fine. For me, it was my first experience with police corruption – unpleasant, but fortunately, this encounter was the only one that went that way.

The rest of the drive was relaxed. At the park entrance, we bought tickets and drove 70 km along a dusty washboard road to our destination: the Aktau Mountains. These bizarrely shaped hills formed in the ancient Tethys Sea. Their colorful stripes were created through millions of years of sedimentation. From a distance, the mountains appear hard and smooth, but up close, one can see that their surface consists of a fragile mix of clay and dirt – a single step can easily break a piece off. All the more astonishing is that the mountains have withstood tides, tourism, and even plans to quarry their limestone.

Hiking among the rock formations felt like a scene from Indiana Jones – all that was missing was a treasure chest in the dry riverbed. Despite the dryness and heat, we even saw a few residents of the region: lizards, desert gerbils, songbirds and raptors, and bats.

We stayed on the rocks until sunset, then pitched our tent, ate some cold canned food, looked at the stars, and wrapped up the day.

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The Altyn Emel Nature Reserve is located about 300 km from the city of Almaty. It features unusual mountains formed from ocean floor sediment as it receded millions of years ago, leaving behind layers of sedimentary rock made of different minerals.

You can only reach it by car, preferably by an SUV, as there are no roads in the park. The cost of a two-day tour is approximately the same as renting a car for that time, so without much thought, we decided to rent a Toyota Prado and go by ourselves with a tent.

On the way, we had our first funny incident with local police: right as we left the city, we were stopped under the pretext of lacking insurance. After resolving that issue, the officer realized we were foreigners and asked us to go to another police officer. There, I was asked to blow into a tube, which showed 0.2 permille, even though we had not consumed any alcoholic beverages before the trip. It was clear that the device was fake, and the officer wanted a bribe. After I firmly denied the possibility of having consumed alcohol, kvass, etc., the day before the trip in Russian several times, I was let go.

The rest of the drive went smoothly, and we entered the reserve after lunch. We traveled about another 100 km through the steppe on sandy roads to the Aktau mountain range. There, we walked along the dry riverbed in the semi-desert and climbed to the top, where, according to legend, Genghis Khan once stood surveying the territory he had just conquered. After descending, we pitched our tent and enjoyed the sky, as the park is far from civilization, making it easy to see many stars and the Milky Way.

Just behind Almaty, only half an hour away by bus, begins the northern foothill of the central Tien Shan: the Ile-Alatau Mountains.

From Medeu, a small winter sports town, a cable car takes you up to 3200 meters in about 90 minutes to the Shymbulak ski resort. While there is no snow in the summer, the area is perfect for hiking. Philipp and I spent yesterday up there, exploring a bit and enjoying the rugged, wild landscape.

It’s quite crazy: In about two hours (including bus and cable car rides), you suddenly find yourself at an altitude that you usually only reach with strenuous mountain tours. Without having to physically exert yourself for even a minute, you have a magnificent view of glaciers and peaks that are almost as high as Mont Blanc, some over 4000 meters!

We quickly agreed that we want to come back here next week, but this time with a tent in our backpacks. The nice thing is: You can camp practically anywhere here...

P.S.: From now on, Philipp will contribute to the blog and write a few texts in Russian for his family. A warm welcome to all new readers! :)

P.S.: From this moment, Philipp will participate in managing the blog and will write small texts in Russian for his family. Welcome to all new readers! :)

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About half an hour by public transport from the center of Almaty is the Medeu winter sports center that has been around since Soviet times. From there, you can head into the mountains in various directions - it's amazing that the stunning landscapes of the Tien Shan highlands can be seen so close to the city of Almaty.

At an altitude of about 3200 meters above sea level, there is a cable car station from where we hiked around the Chkalov Peak (43.10359 77.12762) to where the Sauryksai River flows into the Left Talgar. Along the way, travelers are treated to views of beautiful, rugged landscapes with constantly changing weather.

Leon and I spent the weekend on a trip to the Kazakh Steppe. From Almaty, we headed east, almost to the Chinese border – a journey that took the entire first day.

Our first stop was a waterfall in the mountains where we had a picnic. After that, we drove on to Tuzköl Salt Lake, which offers a breathtaking view of the Tien Shan mountain range, with Khan Tengri in the center. The “Lord of the Sky” at 7010 m is the highest mountain in Kazakhstan and lies right on the border with China and Kyrgyzstan. At Tuzköl, we set up camp and spent the night.

The next morning, we were rewarded with a sunrise that is hard to put into words. The mountains, which had been hidden in mist and clouds the evening before, were now clearly and sharply outlined against the sky. The snow on the peaks shimmered in various colors: first pink, then gold, and finally white-blue. Even when I see them right in front of me, I sometimes find it hard to believe that such places truly exist in the world.

After a hearty breakfast, we set off for a small canyon, which we reached around noon. There we took a break before heading back to Almaty.

We were both completely overwhelmed by the landscapes and the people and returned with many new impressions. Here are a few of them:

• The nature around Almaty is incredibly diverse. There are wide steppes, gentle hills, green river valleys, and rugged mountains with rock faces where Tien Shan firs grow.
• Along the way, we repeatedly encountered nomads who live in yurts in the summer and keep animals: sheep, cows, and surprisingly many horses. The animals often roam freely yet reliably return – lured by small portions of salt. For me, that would rather be a reason to run away, but apparently, the animals can’t get enough of it.
• I learned that a yurt can be set up or taken down in less than an hour and packed so compactly that two camels or a small off-road vehicle are sufficient for transport!
• In the steppe, there is a pleasant silence. Only the chirping of grasshoppers, the wind, and occasionally birdsong or the sounds of livestock can be heard.
• The contrast between Almaty and the surrounding area is enormous: In the city, running water, internet, and air-conditioned rooms are taken for granted. You can shop at Dior and Hermès, stay at the Ritz Carlton, and occasionally a stylish sports car zips through the streets. In the surrounding villages, however, much of that is not available – at least not on a wide scale. Our friendly tour guide explained that this is mainly due to the sheer size of Kazakhstan, which makes it nearly impossible to build stable infrastructure everywhere. Internet is mainly available along the main traffic routes with transmission towers, and outside the large cities, there is mostly no sewage system. However, I wonder if that is the only reason.

Back in Almaty, we collapsed into our hotel beds, exhausted. Since Leon caught a nasty cold along the way, we are spending the rest of our week together mainly in and around our hostel. We read a lot, indulge in the diverse cuisine of the city, and allow ourselves some relaxation. Tomorrow evening Leon flies back to Germany, and the day after tomorrow morning Philipp arrives – then we will make plans together for the next leg of the journey :)

PS: Sorry for the flood of pictures – I couldn't for the life of me decide which ones to leave out.

Since some have already asked for photos, I wanted to make sure the first blog post doesn’t take too long to publish this time: Leon and I have arrived today, after exactly 24 hours of travel, at our first hostel in Almaty, Kazakhstan. It was a long and quite tiring journey. For the first time, we witnessed a plane having to land unexpectedly due to a medical emergency. This meant that we got to watch a beautiful sunrise on a runway somewhere in Turkmenistan, completely exhausted. However, my personal highlight was the landing approach into Almaty: We flew directly over the city and were able to admire it in the morning light against the backdrop of the surrounding mountains. It was very impressive.

On the flight, we also met a nice guy with whom we spent our layover in Astana. He is visiting his girlfriend, who is on a sabbatical and is currently traveling alone from Russia through Mongolia to India. Quite brave – and, above all, I think very cool.

After our arrival at noon and a much-needed power nap, we headed out in the afternoon, explored the nearby supermarkets, and relaxed in a cozy café. I think I can already declare this café my go-to spot in Almaty without hesitation. They have double Americanos, cheesecake, and you can sit by a large glass front and look out onto the street – that’s all I need. Tomorrow morning, I’ll definitely be going back.

In the evening, we spontaneously climbed the city hill Kök Töbe and took in the view of Almaty and the surrounding mountains in the light of the setting sun. It was a beautiful setting for the day, I think. After all, it had already begun with Almaty in the morning light.

It was already 10 AM when I finally set off. Since today's stage was about 260 km, it wasn't too long of a journey, so it wasn't a problem. As has been the case lately, the drive went smoothly, with one exception. The exception was another police check, where it quickly became clear that it was just about bribery. Since I had all the documents, this time they also wanted to see proof of liability insurance for Kazakhstan, and I had nothing against me, one of the officers quickly got to the point and made it clear that he wanted to see a bribe. There was some back and forth, and since I persistently refused to pay even a Tenge, they finally gave up and let me go. Corruption within the police still seems to be widespread. Despite this unpleasant incident, I arrived at my accommodation by 3 PM. Stage goal achieved! Tomorrow, I continue to Astrakhan/Russia, where I will stay for two nights.

Today was different in one respect compared to the other days. Contrary to my original plan to cover the distance from Aktobe to Atyrau in two stages, I managed it in one go. This was partly due to the fact that the route, despite a roughly 5km long unpaved section, was manageable, and partly because the accommodation I had in mind was also about 5km off the main route and could only be reached via unpaved roads. Moreover, the place was situated in the middle of nowhere. I arrived in Atyrau in the early evening and was pleased to find a nice hotel in the city center right away. During my ride here, I discovered that a screw holding the luggage rack along with a special part for fastening it to the footrest had somehow gone missing. On the way, I could only stabilize it inadequately with zip ties. I hope to find a workshop in Atyrau tomorrow that can help me.

09/13/2024: I extended my stay at the hotel by two days today to attend to the motorcycle. According to iOverlander, there is the so-called 'Car City' where many workshops and shops with spare parts for cars are located. I hoped to find what I was looking for there. After breakfast, I headed straight there, and the first small (garage) workshop (AUTODOCTOR) was an instant hit. The staff removed the missing part, which was still present on the other side, and quickly made a new one. The whole thing took less than an hour, and I could resume my ride to the hotel. As has often been the case on this trip, these folks also categorically refused any payment. Simply incredible.

After breakfast, I set off for Turkistan. Today's stage was manageable at about 330 km and, thanks to the well-developed roads, also quite comfortable to tackle. By 2 PM, I had already reached my destination. The landscape resembled that of yesterday, with mountains on the left and large agricultural areas on the right. I'm lucky with the hostel; I got a nice single room with breakfast. Later, I went out again for a coffee. The café was located in a district styled like an old oriental city, with shops, residences, and entertainment facilities. Everything was new and partially still under construction. Upon my return to the hostel, I met two travelers from India who were on their way to Almaty. We had a nice conversation about India, our travels, and various topics. One could certainly spend another day here, but since I have already booked my accommodation in Qysylorda, I will continue tomorrow. If it's interesting there, I might stay an additional day.

Today was another very interesting day. The weather was good, the roads were good, and the landscape around me was wonderful. These must have been the reasons why I managed to reach Taraz today without any effort. The day began with a truly nice event. At a traffic light, a car drove up beside me, which I don't really like. The driver opened the side window and said something about 'for gas and oil and from Kazakhstan', and handed me the equivalent of 10€. I was completely stunned and embarrassed. I couldn't convince the man that it wasn't necessary without offending him. Upon arriving at the hotel at my destination, I was approached by an older lady speaking German, or rather perfect Swabian. She wanted to know where in Germany I was from. As our conversation progressed, it turned out that the lady was born in Taraz as a so-called 'Russian German', grew up there, and went to Germany with the dissolution of the Soviet Union. She is here with her three adult children, whom she wants to show where she used to live. Later in the evening, we met again and continued the conversation with her children. A really interesting day.

As planned, I drove back to Almaty today. Since the weather report had announced rain there, I attached the rain layer to my motorcycle suit last night. Just before Almaty, it started to rain. After settling in at the hostel, I went to have a coffee and some food. For the return trip, I also needed to withdraw some cash and get waterproofing spray for my motorcycle boots. Although it will be sunny and warm again starting tomorrow, the next rain will surely come. This evening, I have plans to have dinner with Benjamin. Alex may join us later, but hasn't confirmed yet.

After my return, I wanted to do some shopping and go out to eat. When I asked where I could find a nearby supermarket or restaurant, my landlady informed me that her husband would drive me for €4. I gladly accepted this offer.

I spent the evening primarily planning my return journey through Kazakhstan (sections of the route, overnight options, ATMs, gas stations, etc.), and not to forget, the Buli.

Last night it rained heavily. It only stopped gradually when I got up. I realized that I am hardly prepared for rain anymore and actually do not want any just yet. The rain can come soon enough on the return trip. Taldykorgan was my destination today and the weather was perfect for motorcycling. The landscape on the way here was once again a sight to behold. I will stay in Taldykorgan for two days and take trips to the nearby areas. On the way here, I met two motorcyclists from Bavaria who are on their way to Mongolia. They plan to return to Germany in late autumn, which I consider quite ambitious. Both have traveled through Iran and Afghanistan to the Stan countries. One of them, like me, is riding a F 650 GS. However, his machine is three years older than mine. Finding a hotel was quite easy today. The first attempt was a success.

Since my spontaneous idea of taking a bus to China didn't materialize, I returned to my original plan of heading east and set off towards Khorgas. On the way there, I visited the Charyn Canyon. Although the canyon is promoted as an attraction everywhere, it didn't seem that overwhelming to me. I originally planned to camp there, but that seems no longer possible. Additionally, access to the canyon itself also appears to be blocked now. Afterwards, I continued on to Khorgas. Khorgas is already in China, so I settled for viewing the whole thing from the Kazakh side. Essentially, it seems to serve as a transshipment point for goods from China. After some difficulties finding accommodation, I eventually ended up in Zharkent. From here, I plan to head to the Altyn Emel National Park tomorrow.

After breakfast, it was time to say goodbye to Bishkek and Kyrgyzstan. Kyrgyzstan truly has a lot to offer in terms of scenery, and the good roads were great for the motorbike. The route to Almaty was actually clear. The border to Kazakhstan is in very close proximity to the city limits. However, Google Maps thought that another border crossing would be better suited to avoid traffic. On the one hand, there was a small traffic jam on the new route, and on the other hand, I couldn't use this crossing. It apparently wasn't an international border crossing. So I turned back and followed the originally planned route. The border control on both sides was smooth and took less than an hour (a record!). The road conditions were consistently good. Only the drive through Almaty to the hostel was somewhat slow due to the high traffic volume. At the hostel, I met a French motorcyclist who has the same plan for his trip home to Georgia as I do. He is also waiting for his transit visa. He also explained to me that the road conditions up to the border are good, except for the construction sites. This matches my research, which would mean that I could also make good progress with a defective shock absorber. Just to be safe, I planned fifteen days for the return trip through Kazakhstan. That is very generous and gives me room for one or two activities, e.g., an excursion to China.

Beyneu is my last stop in Kazakhstan for the time being and for many overlanders it is the stepping stone to Uzbekistan. The road conditions from the border to around Nukus are said to be quite a challenge. In addition, there are almost no overnight accommodation options until Kurgand and apparently no petrol stations either. As a precaution, I got myself a spare canister and filled it and the moped up first. This should get me through to Kurgand if in doubt. I plan to set off early so that I can definitely arrive in daylight. I am really looking forward to the border formalities and the subsequent journey through Uzbekistan. The journey from Shetpe to Beyneu was very pleasant thanks to the good road conditions and the "low" temperatures. Only the strong crosswind was occasionally a nuisance.

Today I left the Satar Visitor Center and headed towards Shetpe. Because I was running low on petrol, Farhad gave me a few litres of his supply (free of charge). After I had left the dirt road and gravel track behind me, everything went quite quickly. I already knew most of the route. In Shetpe I stayed at the Satti Motel again. At a good €30, the accommodation is much too expensive for local standards, but unfortunately there is no alternative. The only plus point about this accommodation is the attached restaurant, where you can eat quite decently and drink a beer for little money. In Kazakhstan, the blood alcohol limit is 0. The evening was again dedicated to the European Championships. ⚽

Before I finally set off for Uzbekistan, I wanted to see Shakpag Ata, a mosque hewn into the rock. As the journey from Aktau and the return journey (80 km of dirt road) to Shetpe was too much for one day, I simply rented a room in the visitor center. My actual place to sleep was supposed to be in a yurt. On the advice of the staff, however, I decided to get a room. The mosquitoes were too bad outside at night. Given my close relationship with these creatures, I didn't have to think long about it. The rooms are simple but immaculate and all air-conditioned. As I was the only guest at the time, there was plenty of time to chat. As there is nothing for miles around except nature, I had to book food at the same time. I was able to try horse sausage and fermented camel milk, among other things. Not something you'd do every day, but definitely worth trying. There was plenty of food. After I'd already had a lavish dinner, I had to eat shashlik and fish at around 11.30 p.m. After that I was almost ready to burst. By the way, plenty of black tea is served with every meal.

Tomorrow we will visit the underground mosque and take a walk/drive to the beach.

06/21/2024: As planned, I took a trip to Shakpag Ata in the morning. These are a few rooms and niches carved into the rock on a slope. In terms of size, the whole thing is manageable but still interesting to see. Later, a group of mostly older men and women came, one of whom talked to me quite intensely. I had the impression that he was not entirely happy with my being there.

I wanted to go back to the visitor center and go to the beach. However, the ground was extremely soft and sandy, so it seemed more sensible not to try that with the motorcycle still heavily loaded.

I spent the afternoon talking, reading and packing.

For dinner this time we had a good portion of fried potatoes, with meat of course.

Later I had the opportunity to try a dessert made from camel milk. Not bad at all!

After I had decided to continue my explorations from Aktau, I set off early this morning and headed towards Aktau in relatively pleasant temperatures. The journey was quite unspectacular and without any special incidents. I approached my accommodation through an industrial area and didn't have a good feeling about it. Unfortunately, this was confirmed when I arrived at the accommodation. The building was pretty run down. The apartment was in a slightly better condition but anything but a highlight. The bed was a sofa bed. Unfortunately, the cancellation period had already expired and I couldn't get out of the contract without further ado. Fortunately, I managed to convince the landlord that this was all a big misunderstanding and that I would like my money back. We agreed on one night, which I have to stay and pay for. I hope this agreement still applies tomorrow.

10.06.2024: My landlord kept his word and shortly after noon I was able to leave the apartment and move into a nice room with breakfast in a very decent hotel. That feels better. This afternoon I explored the area a bit and ended up in the bus café with a cappuccino and a piece of cake. Setting up a café in a bus is a cool idea.

11.06.2024: Today I drove to the Saura Canyon as planned and then to Fort Schevschenko. A good 300km in total. Both were nice to look at but nowhere near as impressive as Sor Tuzbair.

On the way back I stopped again for coffee on the bus. While I was sitting there enjoying my cappuccino and cake, I ran into Ben. We met in Tblisi when we were both transporting the motorbikes to Azerbaijan. Ben had spent a few more days in Azerbaijan and is travelling on to Uzbekistan tomorrow. When I arrived at the hotel, Rudolf from Cologne or rather Aktau spoke to me. Rudolf grew up in Aktau and has been living in Cologne for some time. He was incredibly helpful. I can turn to him whenever I have any questions. After all, he knows his way around here. At the moment I don't have any important questions, but maybe I'll think of something. The world is small and always good for a surprise. 😀

06/12/2024: Today was a rather quiet day. After a short chat with Rudolf, I went to get a replacement canister. The stretches of road without gas stations are getting longer now and I really don't feel like pushing the moped. I found what I was looking for in a nearby auto parts shop. Done! It was also time to do some laundry again, which also meant that my next task was decided. Later, the program included shopping, cleaning motorcycle boots, taking the moped to the car wash, and coffee and cake in the bus cafe. After that, I wanted to deal with some formalities regarding my upcoming departure to Uzbekistan (where to register without having to deviate too much from my route and car insurance). The day ended with a delicious meal in a Georgian restaurant.

Tomorrow I'm planning to visit the largest mosque in the city and then I'd like to spend a little time on the beach. Let's see how it goes.

06/13/2024: Today we visited the Beket Ata Mosque. The second largest in the country. Mosques are often very lavishly decorated and really a feast for the eyes. Even though this mosque was not so richly decorated, I found it very impressive and simply beautiful. The atmosphere in the prayer room had a very pleasant and calming effect on me. However, there was not much else to see. So it was a short visit. However, that gave me the opportunity to pay a visit to a shopping center opposite. I was very surprised when I realized that it looked like every other shopping center in our area. 😉

I had seen on Google Maps that there was accommodation in the area I wanted to visit. Unfortunately, all contact details were missing and there didn't seem to be any streets there either. After some research, I was at least able to find out the WhatsApp address and get in touch through that. After that, everything went pretty quickly. I was able to book a bed in a 🛖 yurt for myself and there is also a trail there. Last but not least, I finally read a few pages and of course paid a visit to the Bus Kaffe.

Tomorrow and the day after, I have two museums on my agenda and hanging out on the beach is still pending.

06/14/2024: Today, as planned, a visit to a museum was on the agenda. Since one of the two museums was closed, the choice fell on the "Mangisdag Museum of Culture and History". Since the museum was only about 1.5 km away, I decided to take a short walk there. The museum was not immediately recognizable as such from the outside. So the exhibition rooms and the exhibition itself were manageable. Nevertheless, there were some interesting exhibits to admire. To my surprise, some of the oldest finds came from an area in what is now Kazakhstan that I would describe as inhospitable at best. Since the two ladies who apparently look after the museum were on their way to their lunch break, the museum was mine to myself for the next hour. Now that's what I call trust.

The afternoon was mainly devoted to further research regarding my onward journey and the latest news from other travelers on Saidenstraße. It is hard to believe who is milling around here, where they all come from and where they are going. Of course, a visit to the bus coffee was a must. I ended the evening once again in the Georgian restaurant around the corner.

Tomorrow I'm planning another museum visit. I have to take care of a turn signal on my moped, which suffered a bit when I last fell over.

06/15/2024: After a hearty breakfast, which is more like lunch for us, I set about fixing the indicator. After a closer look, it seemed advisable to give the whole thing a bit more stability with glue and insulating tape. To do this, I would have to get glue from the nearby hardware store. To my surprise, they even had Patex for sale there. The repair was then quickly done. I had to postpone the museum visit, which was actually scheduled for afterwards, until Tuesday next week. The museum is closed until then. So I spent most of the afternoon reading and surfing the internet, interrupted by a visit to the bus for coffee. The evening was filled with going out to eat and watching the live broadcast of the Spain - Croatia game.

06/16/2024: Today it was finally time for the beach. The destination was "Caspiy Live" about 40 km north of Aktau. The beach was good and the water seemed at least clean. After I initially waited there all alone, more bathers arrived over the course of the day. All of them were well supplied with food and drinks. The Kazakhs are a really open and communicative people. Again and again I get involved in conversations, which work quite well thanks to Google Translate. In the late afternoon, however, I've had enough and start the journey back. Not without being bid farewell by some bathers with a handshake and best wishes.

Dinner at Kaheti and the European Championship are on the agenda for the evening. Fortunately, Kazakh television is broadcasting all the games live.

17.06.2024: I spent most of today reading, running errands and drinking coffee on the bus. The evening was again dominated by the European Championships and phone calls with loved ones at home.

Tomorrow it's time for the beach again. This time we're heading south.

06/18/2024: Today it was time for the beach. The destination was the "Tree of Life" amusement park about 25 km south of Aktau. The beach resort is obviously aimed primarily at families and is equipped with everything that is fun for young and old. For me, only the beach and the facilities there were actually relevant. In that respect, the entrance fee of just over €10 seemed a bit high to me. Nevertheless, both the beach, water and facilities were OK, so I was able to spend a nice day reading, swimming and dozing. On the way back, I of course had to pay a visit to the bus coffee shop. Later on, there were small errands and of course the European Championships on the agenda.

06/19/2024: Today was my last day in Aktau. I wanted to go to the Entomographic Museum and this was my last chance. So I left early again to take advantage of the more pleasant morning hours. The museum is about 9 km from my hotel.