Today we were in Apia, the capital of Samoa. Apia has about 36,000 inhabitants and is quite busy. The harbor has a large container terminal and there is quite a bit of traffic. However, the same can be found on much smaller islands.

The weather is quite laundry-like, meaning hot and humid, sometimes alternating between scorching sun and rain and clouds. The camera is having quite a hard time with that. Even on the other islands, neither the camera nor the iPhone 16 handled the harsh shadows well. Here, the lenses also fog up, both on the phone and the camera.

Today we took a hike from the museum to the grave of Robert Louis Stevenson. He is the author of many books, including Treasure Island and The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. The grave is located on a mountain that can be reached through a rainforest. The climb is somewhat strenuous given the heat and humidity. Depending on the perspective, the locals say they have either none or two seasons. Part of the year is referred to as the cooler dry season and the other as the hotter wet season. Even in the dry season, it warms up to only around 27°C, and in the wet season, it exceeds 30°C.

The island seems well-kept. There is little litter around, and all houses and streets are lined with flowers and other beautiful plants. Every house, even the shabbiest, has at least one equally large outbuilding. This has a roof supported by columns, no outer walls, only roll-up shutters, and is used for family or other gatherings. If there are five houses in one place, four of them are also churches.

There are public buses that are very colorfully painted and have no windows. The public buildings are quite stately. In general, they have been funded by the major powers seeking to strengthen their influence.

Samoa is very religious. On Sundays, no work is done, and nothing else happens except going to church. They write Bible verses on cars, at the roadside, and on other items, people dress from neck to knee, men are forbidden to wear beards in many villages, and there is an 'immaculate' café. They are religiously tolerant, with many different Christian churches, and even Muslims (less than 1%), but no Buddhists, Hindus, or Jews.

Apia – Samoa Islands

Sunrise: 5:30 a.m

Sunset: 6:50 p.m

Mostly cloudy, 23 degrees Celsius

Excursion: Aleipata District + Beach Break 9:40 am

Capital of the Samoa Islands on the north coast

Stunning coral reefs

Mountainous island covered with rainforest, natural beauty, tropical paradise

Tropical fruit and handicraft market

Polynesian culture

Malo Sa'oloto Tuto'atasi o Sāmoa - that's how Samoa is called in Samoan. We reach our final destination in the South Seas. The island state in Polynesia consists of the Western Samoa Islands. Only about 35 kilometers separate the islands from the international date line, so the Samoans are the first ones to start a new day.

We landed in Apia on the island of Upolu. Already on the drive from the airport to our accommodation, we noticed that Samoa is very different from other Pacific states. Everything seems orderly, there is no litter on the roadside, in the gardens of the houses colorful flowers and green plants grow, the lawn is neatly trimmed and no junk vehicles or the like are piled up. Very appealing indeed. We rented a scooter so that we could explore the island flexibly. We took a bus from our accommodation to the rental station. Not just any bus, a very colorful one with loud music, so we could no longer understand our own words. Typical Samoan. The buses are made of wood and depending on the bus driver's preference they play different music styles, sometimes loud or soft. We spent the first and last night in Apia and visited the sights of the largest - and capital of the country. We started with the Cultural Village. The traditional way of life of the islanders was very authentically presented to us here. Employees showed us how to open a coconut and squeeze the milk out of the flesh. We then continued to woodworking and papermaking from bark. The best part: we could try fish and sweet potato, cooked in an earth oven, wrapped in a banana leaf and enjoyed a dance performance. It was a really great experience and no entrance fee was charged. The cultural center is kept alive and constantly expanded by the donations of the visitors. Of course, we also visited the market again, or rather both markets of the city. There is a big market where you can buy fruit, vegetables, clothes, and handicrafts, and a second one, the so-called flea market. We could not really find a difference, only that the flea market is slightly smaller and is located directly at the bus station. The bus station itself is also very worth seeing with its many colorful buses. We then went to the German Flag Memorial. Samoa was a German colony from 1900 to 1914. Even today, there are many descendants with German names in the telephone directory. What the residents still benefit from today is the ban on selling land that the Germans imposed back then and which still applies today. About 80% of the country is owned by the community, so each resident has enough living space. Coincidentally, the Teuila Festival was taking place in Apia. We also made a stop here, strolled through the green space, ate delicious food and observed the locals, as we hardly saw any tourists here. Just outside the city, we visited the House of Worship. It is the prayer house of the Bahai and a place of reflection for followers of all religions. The religion is still very young and has around 8 million followers worldwide. So far, there are only 7 "Houses of Worship", one on each continent. The building is nestled in a large, beautifully landscaped garden and with its 9 glass doors, it is an extraordinary place of worship. In the south of the island, there are the most beautiful sandy beaches. So we booked two nights at a beach accommodation with our own fale. This is a traditional meeting and living house that has no walls and is built on stilts. From Apia, we drove along the coast to the southeast tip to Lalomanu. We passed through villages decorated with colorful garlands, past beaches and into the interior of the country. Here, the landscape is very green, there are pastures for cows and horses and various cultivation areas. When we arrived, we really experienced a great South Sea beach and stayed in a more modern fale with walls ;-). Here, we visited one of the many waterfalls on the island. The Sopoaga Waterfall drops 45 meters into a very green gorge. We then went to the Sua Ocean Trench. This is a volcanic crater filled with water, connected to the sea by a lava tunnel and dependent on the tides and the sea's waves. Again, a beautiful garden has been created around it and from here we enjoyed great views of the rugged coastline and the wild sea.

Samoa really gave us a nice ending in the South Seas.

When we planned our trip and it was decided that we were going to Australia, we thought to ourselves: Since we are already on the other side of the world, we might as well make a detour to the South Seas :) We wanted to visit a less touristy island with a real South Seas feeling, and we decided on Samoa - a very good choice!

Samoa has three inhabited islands with a population of 190,000, of which 40,000 live in the capital Apia alone. After two days in the 'city' (which is more like a larger village), we still didn't feel like we were on an island: It rains a lot and we couldn't find a nice beach.

That changes abruptly when we cross over to the island of Savaii, where we have booked a traditional accommodation called 'Fale': An unlockable, open-sided hut covered with palm leaves right on the beach. Our hosts welcome us like family, we have breakfast and dinner together with the other travelers at a large table, which allows us to quickly get to know everyone, usually followed by card games. After a few days, we really get to know each other and we still see most of our 'roommates' in various places on the island long after we have left our first accommodation 'Tailua' :) The weather is also fantastic at 30 degrees and the sea is warm like a bathtub, turquoise blue, with a coral reef included. We have found our island paradise :)

After 8 days on Savaii, we explore the main island of Upolu with a rental car, which theoretically could be circled multiple times in one day.

After 16 days, we unfortunately have to end our lazy life/beach bumming. Our trip to the South Seas to Samoa comes to an end and we continue our journey with a lot of nostalgia. We would have liked to stay longer.

After breakfast, we finally head to the airport. Samoa, second attempt. This time it works. The flight is on time and the hotel driver is also there. Quickly change some money, but not too much. The export of West Samoa Tala is prohibited.

After over an hour's drive on not particularly good roads, we reach the hotel. Samoa looks good. Just as green as Vanuatu, but everything looks more well-maintained. It almost feels like being in a botanical garden. The hotel does not offer Wi-Fi or television. So you can focus on the beautiful beach.😊

The next day we take a car and explore the island. I still have to get a Samoa Driver License (without an exam) and then we're off. Great beaches and great nature. A stop at the Fuipisia Waterfalls is particularly beautiful. Costs 20 WST (~7 €), but it's worth it. Whether we really had to pay anything here, we don't know.😃

We continue to Apia via various viewpoints. Finding a restaurant proves difficult, there are only fast food chains. That explains why everyone here is so fat.🤣 Obesity is considered a sign of prosperity here. And therefore there are damn many fat people! Even breakfast is already equipped with a cake buffet.

We spend the next day at the beach. Snorkeling is fun, the corals are very close to the beach. Many colorful fish, angelfish and a blue starfish are also included. Unfortunately, there are 2 hours of thunderstorms at noon, but the rest of the day is wonderful. There is fresh fish straight from the boat and then the last day is already over.

And suddenly, the time in Samoa was there, which seemed so far away. So we got on the plane from Sydney to Apia, the capital of Samoa. Due to the time difference, our flight became a very short night. We flew from Australia in the evening and arrived in Samoa five hours later in the early morning for the sunrise. An awesome first experience. The sunrise over the ocean! At the airport, we were picked up by the shuttle of our resort. The hour-long drive across the entire long side of the island was interesting. The road conditions were even worse than in New Zealand. Except in Apia itself, you can find potholes every 500 meters along the road.

So the drive took longer and longer. But it felt like driving through paradise. This paradise was also offered by the resort. In our own small villa with a bedroom and a bathroom, we were right on the beach created by the resort, and behind it, the crystal clear and turquoise sea. It was living with a view of the sea and the beach from the bedroom. The resort consisted of a total of about 15 small villas, two pools, a small reception as well as a restaurant and a bar with a terrace right by the sea, in addition to the beach with sun loungers and umbrellas. With full board booked, we enjoyed ourselves for ten days in Samoa. We almost had the entire resort to ourselves all the time. Except on weekends, there were only one or two other groups in the resort at any given time.

Aside from the days we spent lazily on the beach and in the sun (which were clearly the majority;)), we also saw some of the island. One day, we took a Samoan bus towards Apia. The bus ride alone was an experience in itself. With loud Samoan music and a big bass standing in the middle of the bus, Samoans piled up on top of each other once there was no more space. That was normal there. No one left unless two people sat on each seat. Many of the local buses didn't even have windows. So be careful in the rain.

In Apia itself, we strolled around the city a bit. From the Clocktower, through the Fleamarket, through the National Museum which consisted of two rooms, and simply along the streets. The weather sometimes left something to be desired with heavy rain showers, but otherwise, we got a great impression. In many places, you could still see the country's status as a developing country.

We also saw this the next day. We booked a half-day tour of the island through the resort. Niklas and I were the only two who booked the tour on that day. That's why we had a driver and a guide all to ourselves, who showed us the entire eastern part of the island throughout the day. Another awesome part of paradise. From waterfalls in the jungle to huge holes in the ground where you can swim to amazing beaches.

But we also drove through the small settlements located in the hinterland. Everything was still very underdeveloped and indigenous here. People still live in the old open buildings that are common in the culture here. It was impressive to see because these are moments that you don't often get to see. Since Samoa is not really big, we had enough time to explore everything very relaxed. It was a brilliant day that we both really enjoyed and was definitely worth it. Impressions that you don't get again quickly and that really impress you.

We spent most of the other days on the beach and didn't do much more. One day, we walked to the Cave Pools, a few hundred meters from the resort, with two girls we had met at the resort. The Cave Pools are crystal clear waters, which, as the name suggests, flow into a small cave. In the water itself, there are quite a few fish that you swim with. You can also swim into the cave itself. Snorkel and goggles were recommended here!

So the ten days in Samoa passed much too quickly, and the return flight to New Zealand awaited us. We hadn't made any plans for the last 1 1/2 weeks yet. But it looked like we would cover the last missing big patches on New Zealand's map. Bay of Plenty, East Cape, and Hawkes Bay. But you will find out exactly what happens next in the next post.

Until then,

Your Luca

With this title I hope to have made you curious and certainly triggered first associations. But before you speculate too much, let's quickly get to the facts: The buses have names in Samoa and my very, very local bus was actually called "Angelboy Express" and it actually took me to paradise or at least very close to paradise, because Samoa is really stunningly beautiful. Gorgeous tropical vegetation, palm trees down to the shore, lagoons and green everywhere you look.

My excursion took me along the small villages on the coast and ended in a beautifully landscaped tropical garden, where you could rest under palm trees from the intense heat and 80% humidity and enjoy exotic fruits. The drive there already made my adrenaline levels rise, because Angelboy's brakes screeched frighteningly loud on the often steep terrain and he rattled over bumps and stones, of course, driving on the left side of the road, and would never have passed the vehicle inspection in our country, but here they have great trust in God. I could have also chosen to ride the bus "One Way Jesus". The religious reference is already a very typical characteristic of Samoa: The locals here are very Christian and generally very religiously minded. The missionaries of the 19th century did a great job here. This also included the Germans, because Western Samoa was German until World War I. Since 1962, Western Samoa has been independent with the capital Apia, where the QE docked in the port. The Christian influence has remained and determines everyday life. Just in Apia alone, I found 18 churches on the city map, and when Angelboy drove us through the country, there was definitely a church every 800 meters. I have never seen so many churches in one place. There are all denominations, from Catholic, Protestant, Anglican churches to Methodists and Mormons, who also have many members here.

Nevertheless, it is astonishing that the population has retained their old culture almost 100% and above all, control over public life. Everyone here belongs to a family clan and this clan, called "Matai", determines life. There is no justice system in Samoa, for example, and only very few police officers. Everything is regulated by the Matais and with strict leadership. During my tour of the country, I saw a kind of large pavilion as a meeting place for clan gatherings between 3-4 houses. Everyone in the clan has their role and function, which is clearly defined, and the focus is on the collective "we", not on "I" and self-fulfillment. Similarly, the upbringing is very strict. When I asked my tour guide if marriages are also arranged within the clan, he denied it and said that they marry "with love". The children are raised by both parents, but at the age of three, they also have another close attachment figure besides their parents. Everything is based on respect for others, especially the elderly. I found it interesting to see large bowls in front of the meeting places that serve as gongs, because in the evening, when everyone comes home from work, the gong is struck three times at intervals to pray and pause for about 15 minutes, only then can everyone do what they want.

The people seemed very friendly and cheerful, keeping their houses and properties very tidy, no rubbish, no dirt. The rubbish bin is elevated 1.50 meters so that no animals can rummage through the rubbish. So everything is taken care of. There are also happy dark brown pigs running around freely. At least until they end up in the cooking pot. Here, pork and chicken are predominantly eaten, which is why the Samoans are not exactly slim.

Landscape-wise, Samoa is a feast for the eyes because it is not built up, there are no big hotels, but rather only B&Bs, which is why relatively few tourists stay on the island for a long time.

The only downside is the very challenging climate, which not only I but almost everyone felt. In the afternoon, I went on a walking tour to the city along the bay and came back drenched in sweat. It is currently rainy season, which means heavy showers are part of the daily routine. In Apia, very dark clouds appeared in the afternoon, but the weather held up and I didn't get wet. I could also use my umbrella as a sunshade, like everyone else here in Samoa. However, it rained all morning today, at 26 degrees above the sea. But on a sea day and after yesterday's exhausting day, nobody was upset about it.

This morning, our captain arranged the route to Tonga so that he sailed directly back to the International Date Line, and thus had two different days on the starboard and port side. He is always up for a little fun. A few days ago, he gave a very interesting lecture about the ship, navigation, and some technical data, which I really liked. At the beginning of his lecture, he pulled up his white pants from his captain's uniform and presented his two socks in red and green. He also spends a lot of time on the ship and on deck, and is always ready for a short conversation or happy to answer questions.

In today's daily lunch announcement, he informed us that the Hamburg passengers have now traveled 23,520 km. I can hardly imagine that myself, but we are truly at the other end of the world.

From here, I send you warm greetings. In the onboard newspaper, I always read about the German weather, which is slowly improving for you.

So, here are some early spring greetings until the next message from the Kingdom of Tonga.

Eva